[ooshnoo]

Hey fellas...

My trusty indy shop recently told me that my engine mounts were collapsing, and wanted about $1K replace. Iv'e looked online for a DIY video but haven't been able to locate one.

Is anybody aware of one or instructions that I might have missed?

Thanks!
-A

[ooshnoo]

Somebody??? Anybody???

[S55bruh]

Does your engine noticeably shake while idling? I was wondering if my mounts were on the verge of failing because the motor in my new (to me) 2019 430i visibly shakes during idle. It drives very smooth and BMW dealership inspected it and found no problems. It makes me question because I just sold my M2Comp and the motor in that car didn’t move at all.

[montr]

I had one engine mount on my 2010 E90 335d fail. The engine mount purpose is to isolate the engine vibration from the chassis. With the bad engine mount, I had a lot of vibrations and noise in the cabin. Inspection was easy, I can see that passenger side mount was bottomed out when compared to the driver side mount.

With all that said, I do not know how to test and replace the engine mount on a F36. For the E90 335d, I found the procedure online. To replace both mount, I had to buy this engine support: https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...bar-96524.html

Note: You should be able to measure the height of the engine mounts and see if you have one that collapsed.
The 335d has vacuum controlled engine mounts that are more likely to fail than the F36 engine mounts

[CaptJML]

We had ours replaced a couple weeks ago covered under our CPO warranty. 2018 330i with 25k miles on the car.

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by CaptJML

We had ours replaced a couple weeks ago covered under our CPO warranty. 2018 330i with 25k miles on the car.

25K miles isn't a lot of miles for the engine mount to fail. Did the mechanic indicate what was wrong with it?

[ooshnoo]

Hey guys... I don't feel any vibration. The shop just noted that the mounts were collapsing, so I figured I may try to replace them before they get too bad. I'm guessing that the consensus is that unless the the engine is rocking then I should just leave alone for now.

[CaptJML]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

25K miles isn't a lot of miles for the engine mount to fail. Did the mechanic indicate what was wrong with it?

Agreed. We didn't notice anything, but when we took the car in for a warer pump seal they noticed the engine mounts. It was all covered under our CPO so $0 out of our pocket.

[mtbnole]

I am at 70k on my 2014 and the dealer is telling me my engine mounts have failed as well. Not sure i feel it, but i assume it's a slow deterioration.

Is this a feasible DIY?

[hollovoid7]

I did mine at 85k (n26). Couple things…

Lift car and put on jack stands.
Remove under covers.
Remove cross brace, the plate under the car that is for "Rigidity".

Put engine bar in.
Make sure you have an eye bolt from an earlier Bimmer, the tow bolt that comes with our cars does not work.

Remove all pipes from drivers side.

Support engine. Then begins the fun. The passenger side comes out easy, I took the nuts off the studs on both sides, then turned the engine up a touch to relieve pressure, don't go too much, you still have drivetrain components, etc hooked up.

Pull mounts out. Like I said passenger comes out easy, drivers side was like figuring out those old school chain link puzzles for me, eventually I got it, but there was no really great path out without removing a lot more. It's doable though.

Remember how you pulled them out, snake your new ones in there, be sure you cleaned out under the old ones, and under your support arms. Inspect them while you're at it, they are shockingly super light weight.

Now here's where it gets tricky, if your old ones really were bad, it will be very hard to get the studs under the arm to put in place. I was able to fanangle it in on the passenger side because of the room, and leverage, but the drivers side was a struggle. I loosened the arm bolts, so I could pull it up and wiggle the Mount under, and through the hole. I already had a good amount of lift on the engine at this point so that's why I didn't go any higher.

Tighten mounts bolts down, tighten support arms down if you had to do that, start the nuts on either side. Lower engine slowly and evenly give it a little wiggle here and there to make sure you don't catch threads and damage or roll them on the new mounts. Once she's home, and chain goes slack tighten all down to spec. Look this up, or get a Bentley manual for your own reference.

Reinstall all pipes, etc you removed to gain access.

Reinstall reinforcement plate, torque to spec.

Reinstall undercover.

Hopefully slightly less shaky engine (they are already very shaky, but any improvement is good!).

Hope it helps, I'm sure I may have forgotten something, but it wasn't terrible, even for someone who hasn't done them before.