[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by pw0n

Damn... I'm also part of that 9/9 batch. xph even reached out to me and asked if I wanted to proceed w/ the order. Should've cancelled and went w/ CTS Turbo *facepalm*

I still have my stock IC on, is it even worth changing it out at this point?

I was in the exact same boat. I got the email with the option to cancel the order (because XPH did not give any indication it was out of stock when the order was placed). I almost did and went with the AA CP+IC combo deal instead, but decided to stick to VRSF. I also saw CTS on sale at the same time and almost ordered that... Of course i regret that decision now, lol.

Of course the IC upgrade is worth it, but I would not attempt the install without the Orings i mentioned above. Since you have all this information before doing the install, i suspect you can get it right the first time and avoid going through multiple installs and trial and error. Just get the Orings and test the CP-IC connection with the IC on the ground. Once you are confident one of the Orings will seal, the install itself isnt bad at all.

[bdragon46]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Well, glad to hear it helped someone else. Did you use the 4mmx59mm for those two connections to the IC?

I suspect it went above target because your WGDC and other adaptations were making up for a boost leak. If you reset adaptations or just give it some time i imagine the boost control will be on point.

Yes. Ordered both o rings for the ic and the one for the tic.

That's what I figured after looking over the log and also noticed that the wgdc was slightly higher than before. Reset the adaption but haven't gotten a chance to do another log.

[G80S58]

Hi all, been reading this thread and I'm about to get my CP installed and I just want to make sure I put the O rings in correctly.

As mentioned the O rings from the CP to the IC is directional. which way should it be if say the top was the CP and bottom was IC.

I've been playing around with both ways and both seems to fit in nicely, although one way was a lot easier to go in than the other.
It seems like the O ring on the left of the CP in the picture is the right way if I was to put it in, but I could be wrong.

See pictures below.

[alohasurftoad]

in your pic, the o-ring on the right is the correct orientation

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...=o-ring&page=2

[G80S58]

Originally Posted by alohasurftoad

in your pic, the o-ring on the right is the correct orientation

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...=o-ring&page=2

So the flare part goes into the charge pipe first because the IC goes into the CP and not the other way around. OK I think I get it now.

[alohasurftoad]

Originally Posted by CRAMAZIN

So the flare part goes into the charge pipe first because the IC goes into the CP and not the other way around. OK I think I get it now.

i consider it somewhat of a "barb" flap. it is the way that the charge pipe will slide on to the intercooler the easiest.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by alohasurftoad

i consider it somewhat of a "barb" flap. it is the way that the charge pipe will slide on to the intercooler the easiest.

Correct. Confirming that the correct orientation is the Oring on the right in your picture above. The Oring is tapered in such a way that it facilitates sliding onto the IC and when the CP is fully seated, the taper is sitting against the portion of the IC connection where it increases in diameter (and angled for that reason).

When you install, you can lightly oil with motor oil. Just make sure the Oring does not wrinkle.

If there is any side to side play once the CP is clipped on, i would be suspicious of a potential boost leak.

[G80S58]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Correct. Confirming that the correct orientation is the Oring on the right in your picture above. The Oring is tapered in such a way that it facilitates sliding onto the IC and when the CP is fully seated, the taper is sitting against the portion of the IC connection where it increases in diameter (and angled for that reason).

When you install, you can lightly oil with motor oil. Just make sure the Oring does not wrinkle.

If there is any side to side play once the CP is clipped on, i would be suspicious of a potential boost leak.

Do I need to put oil on it for install or is that just for a test? I got a brand new O rings for the install to avoid future problems.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by CRAMAZIN

Do I need to put oil on it for install or is that just for a test? I got a brand new O rings for the install to avoid future problems.

I would recommend the oil, but it may not be "required". Just dab your finger in motor oil and wipe it around the circumference on the Oring. You can even use oil that may already be in your CP. You just dont want the Oring to catch and wrinkle or not sit correctly if its a tight fit when you slide on. Some people use silicone lubricant or something else, but oil is usually already there.

[doodlebro]

Ordered all of them, though I only have oil/grease leaking from the intercooler to charge pipe connection so that is where I will start.

[khj24]

Originally Posted by doodlebro

Ordered all of them, though I only have oil/grease leaking from the intercooler to charge pipe connection so that is where I will start.

Oh hey, I'm not the only one!

[khj24]

I flashed BM3 and sent them some logs for stage 1, I have a delta between boost and target, but it's well within spec and deemed normal so I think these o rings are absolutely the way to go!

[hardparker]

To test and confirm fitment, I swapped my cold side o-ring to the the 4.5mm x 60mm o-ring after lightly sanding it to reduce it's outside diameter. I slipped it over a 2-1/4" hole saw in my power drill and sanded the outside edge with some 200 grit sandpaper. I checked it with a micrometer and ended up at 4.42 to 4.43 mm. Still a VERY tight fit. Still no leaks at 30 psi. Thanks to the thejeremyman9 for the addition. I've added it to the first post.

Loose intercooler cold side option - 1 - 4.5mm x 60mm - $1.07
https://www.theoringstore.com/store/...ducts_id=17451
__________________

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by hardparker

To test and confirm fitment, I swapped my cold side o-ring to the the 4.5mm x 60mm o-ring after lightly sanding it to reduce it's outside diameter. I slipped it over a 2-1/4" hole saw in my power drill and sanded the outside edge with some 200 grit sandpaper. I checked it with a micrometer and ended up at 4.42 to 4.43 mm. Still a VERY tight fit. Still no leaks at 30 psi. Thanks to the thejeremyman9 for the addition. I've added it to the first post.

Loose intercooler cold side option - 1 - 4.5mm x 60mm - $1.07
https://www.theoringstore.com/store/...ducts_id=17451
__________________

Thanks for adding that to the first post. Hopefully it will help a poor soul who was as unlucky as I was with an excessively loose connection. I would consider my fit as nearly impossible even after the sanding, lol.

[doodlebro]

Originally Posted by hardparker

To test and confirm fitment, I swapped my cold side o-ring to the the 4.5mm x 60mm o-ring after lightly sanding it to reduce it's outside diameter. I slipped it over a 2-1/4" hole saw in my power drill and sanded the outside edge with some 200 grit sandpaper. I checked it with a micrometer and ended up at 4.42 to 4.43 mm. Still a VERY tight fit. Still no leaks at 30 psi. Thanks to the thejeremyman9 for the addition. I've added it to the first post.

Loose intercooler cold side option - 1 - 4.5mm x 60mm - $1.07
https://www.theoringstore.com/store/...ducts_id=17451
__________________

What turbo are you running that hits 30 PSI? Or was that just the boost test?

[hardparker]

Originally Posted by doodlebro

What turbo are you running that hits 30 PSI? Or was that just the boost test?

Just for leak testing. I've run 28 psi tapering to 24 psi, briefly, on my PS2 in the past. That could be why they break on me. I'd like to be able to run 20 psi flat all the time, but when I've tried that on PS2s at this altitude, they don't last long.

[SimpleJack]

Originally Posted by hardparker

I've had some minor boost leak issues in the past that I've vanquished by replacing all of the pressurized OEM charge pipe seals with o-rings.

Harkes first put forward replacing the charge pipe to throttle body o-ring with a larger o-ring. I figured I'd flesh in the rest for those who want to replace the rest of the OEM seals with better sealing, inexpensive, non-directional o-rings. The grand total of this setup is $3.00, plus shipping. I've boost leak tested it up to 30 psi without any leaks.

Be warned that installing fresh o-rings requires significantly more effort. After they've been installed for a while, they form to the seal path better and are easier to reinstall. That first time is a real pain, but it can be done. Be sure to lightly grease both the o-ring and the sealing surface that it'll be sliding onto.

These are the largest cross section o-rings I've been able to fit. Hope this makes all of your boost leaks go bye bye, too.

Turbo outlet: 1 - 4.5mm X 49mm - $.98
https://www.theoringstore.com/store/...ducts_id=17446

Throttle body: 1 - 4mm x 81mm - $.90
https://www.theoringstore.com/store/...ducts_id=39576

Intercooler: 2 - 4mm x 59mm - $1.12
https://www.theoringstore.com/store/...oducts_id=2242

For looser fitting charge pipe to IC cold side fitments, thejeremyman9 found that a 4.5mm x 60mm o-ring, lightly sanded to reduce it's thickness, worked best at eliminating leaks.

Loose intercooler cold side option - 1 - 4.5mm x 60mm - $1.07
https://www.theoringstore.com/store/...ducts_id=17451

Just ordered a FMIC CP and TIC kit from ER. Reading a bunch of this thread makes me a bit nervous for fit and potential leaks. Think I want to replace all the orings even though my car only has 22k miles on it. The oring site is out of stock of the intercooler orings. Anyone know of another site that has reliable, snug fitting, rings?

If it matters, my car is a 2015 435i xD gran coupe

[khj24]

Originally Posted by SimpleJack

Just ordered a FMIC CP and TIC kit from ER. Reading a bunch of this thread makes me a bit nervous for fit and potential leaks. Think I want to replace all the orings even though my car only has 22k miles on it. The oring site is out of stock of the intercooler orings. Anyone know of another site that has reliable, snug fitting, rings?

If it matters, my car is a 2015 435i xD gran coupe

If you're buying ER this probably isn't something you need to worry about.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by khj24

If you're buying ER this probably isn't something you need to worry about.

Yeah, you can start with trying new stock Orings and see how it feels. If there is any play at all at the connections and they dont feel solid/sealed then you can explore other options.

I know there are other online Oring stores but haven't tried any of them.

[Tpriest7893]

Originally Posted by SimpleJack

Just ordered a FMIC CP and TIC kit from ER. Reading a bunch of this thread makes me a bit nervous for fit and potential leaks. Think I want to replace all the orings even though my car only has 22k miles on it. The oring site is out of stock of the intercooler orings. Anyone know of another site that has reliable, snug fitting, rings?

If it matters, my car is a 2015 435i xD gran coupe

I recently got a vrsf HD intercooler and a bms charge pipe. Used the stock O rings with no issues. They were already pretty oiled so I just threw them in made sure they were tight and my car PULLS much better then it did before. And feels great.

[doodlebro]

Having mine installed by my shop today. They tried to talk me out of it but I told them hardparker knows what the hell he's doing

Will report back with any differences.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by doodlebro

Having mine installed by my shop today. They tried to talk me out of it but I told them hardparker knows what the hell he's doing

Will report back with any differences.

Are they doing a smoke or boost test before/after? Which ones specifically are you installing and where?

Did you capture before logs so you can do before/after?