[steve@codemybimmer]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

Will this work for that purpose?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-NBT-EVO...r/113887576479

That will allow the laptop to communicate directly with the HU but without the car's gateway connection, feature installer would not know what to do.

[psyki]

Originally Posted by steve@codemybimmer

You can splice it but you'll need an OEM OABR connector along with the proper crimps. Usually in this type of scenario, we would have the customer ship the HU to us as OABR is required for flashing & feature installer.

From what I know, the Ethernet pins are on the bottom right slot of quad lock and those wires are really thin to just take out.

I need to go look at exactly what pins are installed in the wiring harness I'm using but luckily the EVO I purchased came with all the connectors and about 6" of wire so I have a spare quadlock and OABR connector.

These are the wires I was told to move from quadlock to OABR:

31 17-ETX_TH+
32 19-ETX_TH-
37 18-ETX_RH+
38 20-ETX_RH-

On the stock EVO connectors there is nothing plugged into quadlock 31/32/37/38 but there are pins in OABR 17/18/19/20. If I recall correctly, on the wiring harness I purchased pins 17/18/19/20 are unoccupied on the OABR connector so I'll have to check what's plugged into the quadlock in the car.

My guess is that 31/32/37/38 on the wiring harness quadlock are actually fed by the cars original quadlock which is what I need to move to the OABR. I have a set of keys for removing MQS pins and I was able to remove the pins from the original OABR so I should be able to splice the 6" of twisted wire to the correct wires in the quadlock and insert the pins into the OABR in the car.

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

The latest HU units including iDrive 6 units do NOT have an external GPS antenna input.

ATM is a must to feed GPS signal.

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

Why would someone pay $400+ for that when you can easily buy a used ATM off eBay to supply GPS info correctly for idrive 5 and 6 for less than $100?

Originally Posted by Poochie

It seems like a pain in the ass to sync a new VIN to a used ATM.

I can't find one case of someone successfully doing so.

This seems like a easier workaround..

Originally Posted by Poochie

I see, it would be cool to retain the Connectdrive services also with a ID6 upgrade.

What's required exactly to go from a NBT EVO ID4 to a ID6 and retain all the functionality?

I'm still learning the ropes of this mod, it's pretty intricate for a novice.

They make European NBT Evo units out of G series vehicles with a built in GPS port. I do not recommend them since this is supposed to be a online system.

2016 cars have a NBT Evo ID 4 silver top with a ATM. You just need a ID5 or ID6 black top head unit.

Flash the head unit wiping the old FSC. Then get a FSC repair kit matching your vin.

NBT next cars (2014-2015) will need a ATM and NBT Evo that will have to be coded to matched the ATM donor vin.

I have done this in a few E9X's with full working connected drive. Just today one of those cars was involved in a bad accident. BMW Assist automatically called the police and recorded the car's location. They did not care at all that the car was a E91 instead of the X3 ATM donor car. The same concept applies to your F30s. Make the NBT Evo and ATM match. Then trick them into thinking they are in the donor car. You don't even need a coding bench to flash the NBT Evo. I flash NBT Evos in my E90 using Ethernet direct to the head unit.

Maybe it is time for a DIY post to spill the beans on the NBT Evo. You can read up more info on my dev thread but it is not a DIY: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1569776

[Poochie]

[/QUOTE]

Thank you very much for the info, especially the link.

I'm not sure why I didn't find it before but it's very informative and answered all my questions with certainty.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

They make European NBT Evo units out of G series vehicles with a built in GPS port. I do not recommend them since this is supposed to be a online system

For reasons I posted earlier, I agree that I certainly would not suggest any USA owner purchase an European Head Unit.

It's ridiculous to spend that much for a retrofit that leaves out some of the features, imo.

[Insane435]

following.

[psyki]

Update: Got everything working last night, once I moved the 4 pins from the quadlock to the OABR connector as advised the Feature Installer tool applied the FSC codes without a hitch. Navigation now works!

All in all this was not the most difficult retrofit (adaptive cruise control was much more involved), I strongly encourage anyone interested to purchase the wiring harness I linked earlier in this thread. With it the entire hardware install is 99% plug and play if you have a pre-2019 headunit as you can apply FSC codes with a thumb drive. I only had to move the wires because my HU has an 18-11 i-step level which has defeated the thumb drive patch technique.

Modifying the dash and screen for the 10.25" touch screen only took a dremel and about an hour of time, the higher resolution screen is gorgeous and looks like it belongs in the dash although reaching up to touch it is rather cumbersome. I'm thinking about removing the silver trim and painting it satin black.

ConnectedDrive services are not working yet but I have a plan I'm confident will work, for the time being it appears the previous owner purchased an RTTI subscription that is good until June so I'm set there

If you've used e-sys to do FDL coding, you can perform the coding steps necessary to make this retrofit work. Just make sure you get a HW4.1 headunit as they come with 4GB RAM and will not need to be flashed to work.

Thanks to IK6SPEED and steve@codemybimmer for assistance!

Feel free to ask any questions, I'll update the thread when I get ConnectedDrive working.

[Nickco43]

It is definitely time for me to pick up a F series car.

[Poochie]

Looks great, love the bigger screen.

Why is the ConnectDrive service not working yet?

And also, does the BMW APPs (Spotify, Pandora, M Laptimer, ect) working also?

[psyki]

Originally Posted by Poochie

Looks great, love the bigger screen.

Why is the ConnectDrive service not working yet?

And also, does the BMW APPs (Spotify, Pandora, M Laptimer, ect) working also?

ConnectedDrive is not working because I still need to register the VIN of the ATM on the connecteddrive website. Hit a snag with that so I'm still working on it.

After I applied the FSC codes I wasn't sure if I was supposed to perform an 'Update services' but I've learned that it's fine so I still need to do that. I'll update here in a little bit with the results but yes, the FSC set I purchased has all those apps.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by psyki

ConnectedDrive is not working because I still need to register the VIN of the ATM on the connecteddrive website. Hit a snag with that so I'm still working on it.

After I applied the FSC codes I wasn't sure if I was supposed to perform an 'Update services' but I've learned that it's fine so I still need to do that. I'll update here in a little bit with the results but yes, the FSC set I purchased has all those apps.

Thanks for your quick response!

One last question, I had swapped just my iDrive 4 EVO controller to the ceramic version and everything worked fine but I kept getting a persistent fault code within ISTA-D indicating that the new controller needed to be encoded.

I then sold the controller and purchase a stock one, as what came with my vehicle but the fault code remained.

I went through hell trying to get rid of it and the only way I was able to resolve it is have the dealer update the software and program my vehicle accept the new controller.

Did you ever run a test on your vehicle to see if any hidden fault code exist due to the new hardware?

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by Poochie

Thanks for your quick response!

One last question, I had swapped just my iDrive 4 EVO controller to the ceramic version and everything worked fine but I kept getting a persistent fault code within ISTA-D indicating that the new controller needed to be encoded.

I then sold the controller and purchase a stock one, as what came with my vehicle but the fault code remained.

I went through hell trying to get rid of it and the only way I was able to resolve it is have the dealer update the software and program my vehicle accept the new controller.

Did you ever run a test on your vehicle to see if any hidden fault code exist due to the new hardware?

The ceramic controller is not supposed to be in a F3x so it will give an error code.

I wonder if your replacement controller was out of a non-F3x as well as that would present same error. If it's not a F3x controller, ISTA will not like it being there.

Tell everyone who sells their old parts like this to recoup costs they are nuts as eventually they will probably be needed.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

The ceramic controller is not supposed to be in a F3x so it will give an error code.

I wonder if your replacement controller was out of a non-F3x as well as that would present same error. If it's not a F3x controller, ISTA will not like it being there.

Tell everyone who sells their old parts like this to recoup costs they are nuts as eventually they will probably be needed.

I looked up the eBay records of when I sold the original controller and ordered back a replacement number down to a T. I even matched the version, after the part number to match. Same "encoding" fault.

I've come to the conclusion that any replacement controller needs to be programmed to the vehicle.

The dealer updated the entire iStep and all the modules but some folks here claim that it was unnecessary, as only one module can be solely programed, without updating the software. :

My question is if I upgrade to ID6, which is obviously a different controller, would I have the same issue?

As I mentioned to you before, the ceramic controller worked fine even with the exception of the fault code but I'm so anal about these things, it just kept bugging me until I found a way to get rid of it.. I'm one of those guys..

BTW, excellent advice on keeping all your old electronic parts in case of future software updates; it should be a sticky post but most folks here are so hardheaded, they would probably ignore it and learn the hard way.

[larrylam646]

Originally Posted by Poochie

My question is if I upgrade to ID6, which is obviously a different controller, would I have the same issue?

Poochie,

Yes you will.

In my experience, any time I replace a module (that contains a CAFD file), the CAFD file is missing in the replacement module when connected into my vehicle and I have to add ("inject") and configure (i.e. VO/FDL code) the CAFD file to my vehicle (FA).

FYI, I routinely check and update the FW (i-level) of the replacement module to that of the rest of the vehicle. Not absolutely necessary but if there are dependencies with other modules, there may be compatibility issues.

Do you have a Launcher Pro 3/E-sys/e-net cable setup? If you do, use E-sys to read the SVT of your vehicle and check your CON (ZBE3?) to see if it has a CAFD file. If not you will have to inject the right i-level CAFD file and then VO Code the CON module.

Larry

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by larrylam646

Poochie,

Yes you will.

In my experience, any time I replace a module (that contains a CAFD file), the CAFD file is missing in the replacement module when connected into my vehicle and I have to add ("inject") and configure (i.e. VO/FDL code) the CAFD file to my vehicle (FA).

FYI, I routinely check and update the FW (i-level) of the replacement module to that of the rest of the vehicle. Not absolutely necessary but if there are dependencies with other modules, there may be compatibility issues.

Do you have a Launcher Pro 3/E-sys/e-net cable setup? If you do, use E-sys to read the SVT of your vehicle and check your CON (ZBE3?) to see if it has a CAFD file. If not you will have to inject the right i-level CAFD file and then VO Code the CON module.

Larry

Thank you very much for the information!!

I would give you two "likes" if I could

I suspected replacing the controller would result in a "encoding" fault error again.

When I originally had the issue, I had spoken to 5 different "coders" here and even had one assist me remotely but none of them could give me a strait answer or help me in removing the permanent fault. It was extremely frustrating..

Only after the dealer programmed the vehicle to a new controller had the fault disappeared but I lost all my custom coding, including some options I could no longer recover (increasing the triple-turn signal).

I accidentally spilled a can of Redbull on my laptop so it's currently being repaired but the vehicle is fine now, no more fault, therefore I don't need to run ESYS any further.

However, I couldn't leave well enough alone and I was looking to upgrade to ID6

But after your advice today, I'm not going I do the swap anymore. There is too many "what iffs" for my liking.

Had you not dole out this vital piece of missing info, I suspected I would of made a poor choice, so thanks again for the information!

I've encountered a few that have the same fault, so here's a printout of what the dealer did to resolve the issue for anyone else that might run into a similar problem

[larrylam646]

Hi Poochie,

If you have the proper tools (E-sys and ISTA+) which I believe you already have available and someone experienced with ID6 retrofits to help e.g. steve@codemybimmer, it should be a straight-forward process to retrofit an ID6 HU, especially if I am right, your 2016 M2 came with the proper Telematics box.

PM to me your VIN or manufacturing date and I will check to determine what hardware was factory installed in your M2.

Larry

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by Poochie

Thank you very much for the information!!

I would give you two "likes" if I could

I suspected replacing the controller would result in a "encoding" fault error again.

When I originally had the issue, I had spoken to 5 different "coders" here and even had one assist me remotely but none of them could give me a strait answer or help me in removing the permanent fault. It was extremely frustrating..

Only after the dealer programmed the vehicle to a new controller had the fault disappeared but I lost all my custom coding, including some options I could no longer recover (increasing the triple-turn signal).

I accidentally spilled a can of Redbull on my laptop so it's currently being repaired but the vehicle is fine now, no more fault, therefore I don't need to run ESYS any further.

However, I couldn't leave well enough alone and I was looking to upgrade to ID6

But after your advice today, I'm not going I do the swap anymore. There is too many "what iffs" for my liking.

Had you not dole out this vital piece of missing info, I suspected I would of made a poor choice, so thanks again for the information!

I've encountered a few that have the same fault, so here's a printout of what the dealer did to resolve the issue for anyone else that might run into a similar problem

If you swapped out the HU, you would need to code it anyway, so not sure why you are making such a big deal about coding something

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by larrylam646

Hi Poochie,

If you have the proper tools (E-sys and ISTA+) which I believe you already have available and someone experienced with ID6 retrofits to help e.g. steve@codemybimmer, it should be a straight-forward process to retrofit an ID6 HU, especially if I am right, your 2016 M2 came with the proper Telematics box.

PM to me your VIN or manufacturing date and I will check to determine what hardware was factory installed in your M2.

Larry

Thanks for the recommendation, I've read only good things about Steve & Tim at CodeMyBimmer, however, I still going to hold off for now until someone successfully does it without any faults or I grasp a better understand of how everything works together.

After the last incident, you have to understand I was on island by myself trying to figure it out, so I'm a little gun-shy this time around but I will be paying attention.

I sincerely appreciate all your help and I look forward to others making progress with this mod!

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

If you swapped out the HU, you would need to code it anyway, so not sure why you are making such a big deal about coding something

From what I understand, to resolved this issue in question requires "programming" not "coding." No one has yet confirm that it can done properly to my satisfaction.

Everyone and all that did it so far claim that ConnectDrive functions might be in jeopardy of not functioning properly and can't guarantee any hidden faults. That doesn't inspire a lot of confidence.

I'm going to wait until someone makes some headway on this retrofit and then I'll go for there.

BMW's complicated CAN Bus system is prone to fault if everything is not in synced with each other and is not something I want to deal with at the moment.

[larrylam646]

Originally Posted by Poochie

After the last incident, you have to understand I was on island by myself trying to figure it out, so I'm a little gun-shy this time around but I will be paying attention.

Poochie,

I understand and respect your decision....

Larry

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by Poochie

From what I understand, to resolved this issue in question requires "programming" not "coding." No one has yet confirm that it can done properly to my satisfaction.

Everyone and all that did it so far claim that ConnectDrive functions might be in jeopardy of not functioning properly and can't guarantee any hidden faults. That doesn't inspire a lot of confidence.

I'm going to wait until someone makes some headway on this retrofit and then I'll go for there.

BMW's complicated CAN Bus system is prone to fault if everything is not in synced with each other and is not something I want to deal with at the moment.

Coding and programming are the same thing in this instance.

[Nickco43]

IK6SPEED

Your PM box is full.



I now have a 18 M3 ATM under my own connected drive account.