[Chris.let]

Originally Posted by kubax86

not necessarily as well
what's the software version?

Can't say, the thing locked itself before I could get to that.

[steve@codemybimmer]

Originally Posted by Chris.let

Can't say, the thing locked itself before I could get to that.

It doesn't allow you to inject a CAFD and VO code?

[kubax86]

Originally Posted by Chris.let

Can't say, the thing locked itself before I could get to that.

You should be able to read software version by ista/esys/tool32

[XXLdutch]

Hi, I'm driving a F33 420 with a NBT EVO ID4 headunit. Had this unit upgraded to Apple Carplay with wifi some time ago which worked absolutely brilliantly. Unitl mid-drive the whole thing seemd to crash, went black and then rebooted but with only a functional radio. It still connects to wifi and bluetooth but no Carplay menu and the default nav system also stopped working. The rest of the menu works fine. Connecting via USB and snap-in also does not work anymore.

Upon entering the car and before starting the engine, I now hear a clicking noise coming from behind the dash, like a blinker. Could be a malfunctioning solenoid?

Any thoughts, anyone?

[steve@codemybimmer]

Originally Posted by XXLdutch

Hi, I'm driving a F33 420 with a NBT EVO ID4 headunit. Had this unit upgraded to Apple Carplay with wifi some time ago which worked absolutely brilliantly. Unitl mid-drive the whole thing seemd to crash, went black and then rebooted but with only a functional radio. It still connects to wifi and bluetooth but no Carplay menu and the default nav system also stopped working. The rest of the menu works fine. Connecting via USB and snap-in also does not work anymore.

Upon entering the car and before starting the engine, I now hear a clicking noise coming from behind the dash, like a blinker. Could be a malfunctioning solenoid?

Any thoughts, anyone?

Sounds like a faulty hard drive. If you're handy enough to replace it with an SSD, we can help with having it programmed.

[piknuie]

I have a problem with Connected Drive / ATM

I had 6WA, with NBT (ID4) and TCB 3G.
I retrofitted the 6WB, with NBTevo (ID5 with ID6 graphics) and 4G ATM.
Everything works, the Connected menu is populated with Weather, News, Flickr, etc etc.

I can - from app - start remote commands (open, close and beep).
But most importantly (for me) it doesn't work. It does not come out 'ALL OK' and it does not show me the details of windows and doors (if closed or open).

From the Connected Drive site I can buy the usual packages I bought with the TCB 3G, and not new with 4G ..

By making a CarData, I am returned 'SIM status': ACTIVE.

I called Connected drive and I let myself dare the IMEI of the sim that sees a screen: it coincides with the label of my new ATM.

Can you help me to enable the status of the doors and windows from the app?

edit: the VIN is original MINE. In ATM and in HeadUnit.. All original

[Chris.let]

Bit of an issue.

Evo retrofit has been mostly successful. Sorted out the OABR issues I was talking about earlier and got it coded.

But the unit I got out of the wrecked G30 does not have the MOST connectors on the Quadlock connectors. The KOMBI and EVO aren't talking. I decided to open the EVO up thinking they could be pushed in. There's nothing. Please attaches pics. The other pics are of my previous NBT unit and those have the MOST.

Anyone ever seen something like this?
Is there a solution?

[kubax86]

Originally Posted by Chris.let

Bit of an issue.

Evo retrofit has been mostly successful. Sorted out the OABR issues I was talking about earlier and got it coded.

But the unit I got out of the wrecked G30 does not have the MOST connectors on the Quadlock connectors. The KOMBI and EVO aren't talking. I decided to open the EVO up thinking they could be pushed in. There's nothing. Please attaches pics. The other pics are of my previous NBT unit and those have the MOST.

Anyone ever seen something like this?
Is there a solution?

Only way is to replace for the one with MOST

[Chris.let]

Originally Posted by kubax86

Only way is to replace for the one with MOST

Originally Posted by kubax86

Only way is to replace for the one with MOST

Ouch. Thanks.

[MacAir]

thanks

[Chris.let]

So I managed to source an HW4.1 EVO unit with MOST, cost about $250. It seems to have more advanced component protection; it gets into some sort of boot loop and has a clicking sound every time it restarts. How do you get around this? Only with flashing the unit? If yes, does it matter whether I flash newer or older software?

Also, on average, how long does it take to flash NBT EVO over ENET only?

[kubax86]

Originally Posted by Chris.let

So I managed to source an HW4.1 EVO unit with MOST, cost about $250. It seems to have more advanced component protection; it gets into some sort of boot loop and has a clicking sound every time it restarts. How do you get around this? Only with flashing the unit? If yes, does it matter whether I flash newer or older software?

Also, on average, how long does it take to flash NBT EVO over ENET only?

May have bad HDD. It may be broken too.
250$ is very cheap

[Chris.let]

Originally Posted by kubax86

May have bad HDD. It may be broken too.
250$ is very cheap

Originally Posted by kubax86

May have bad HDD. It may be broken too.
250$ is very cheap

Yea they go for pretty cheap in my country. The G30 unit I am swapping out cost about $165. It was perfect except for the MOST issue.

Anyway, I also suspect it's a bad HDD but I read somewhere else that with HW 4.1 it's component protection. I thought I should bring it here to see if anyone else has had the same issue. I will try to see if I cannot flash it to by pass component protection.

[psyki]

Originally Posted by kubax86

May have bad HDD. It may be broken too.
250$ is very cheap

I paid $550 plus shipping for a HW4.1 unit in 2019! It was from an F22 so I knew it would be compatible, there's enough other headaches along the way.

[MarinoVir]

[QUOTE=Chris.let;29471603]Yea they go for pretty cheap in my country. The G30 unit I am swapping out cost about $165. It was perfect except for the MOST issue.

sorry, what is your country?

[Chris.let]

[QUOTE=MarinoVir;29577412]

Originally Posted by Chris.let

Yea they go for pretty cheap in my country. The G30 unit I am swapping out cost about $165. It was perfect except for the MOST issue.

sorry, what is your country?

South Africa

[alberico]

Hi bimmerheads, I have an issue I think very related to this thread.

I'm trying to retrofit my F48 (October 2017) with an NBT EVO head unit. I originally had EntryNav2 (ENAVEVO) head unit. I purchased a black top NBT EVO (HW 4.1), along with 8,8" touch screen and touch iDrive controller. Did the installation myself and screen and touch controller works.

However...

My original head unit has a 6-pin ATM connector (3 of the pins are occupied, white, green and black), while EVO has a 20-pin OABR port on the back.

My problems are as follows:
- No GPS signal
- No driving data (consumption, mileage etc)
- No time and date

The seller told me this was going to be plug&play, but I suppose that's not the case.

It feels like the HU doesn't communicate with the rest of the car.

I'd much appreciate if anyone could shed some light to this.

[Chris.let]

Originally Posted by alberico

Hi bimmerheads, I have an issue I think very related to this thread.

I'm trying to retrofit my F48 (October 2017) with an NBT EVO head unit. I originally had EntryNav2 (ENAVEVO) head unit. I purchased a black top NBT EVO (HW 4.1), along with 8,8" touch screen and touch iDrive controller. Did the installation myself and screen and touch controller works.

However...

My original head unit has a 6-pin ATM connector (3 of the pins are occupied, white, green and black), while EVO has a 20-pin OABR port on the back.

My problems are as follows:
- No GPS signal
- No driving data (consumption, mileage etc)
- No time and date

The seller told me this was going to be plug&play, but I suppose that's not the case.

It feels like the HU doesn't communicate with the rest of the car.

I'd much appreciate if anyone could shed some light to this.

I believe you need to buy an EVO 20pin OABR connector (available on ebay) and repin the wires from the 6pin OABR to the 20pin one. I read somewhere that the White, Green & either Black or Clear need to be re-pinned to the EVO OABR into pins 2,4 & 8 respectively.

[alberico]

Originally Posted by Chris.let

I believe you need to buy an EVO 20pin OABR connector (available on ebay) and repin the wires from the 6pin OABR to the 20pin one. I read somewhere that the White, Green & either Black or Clear need to be re-pinned to the EVO OABR into pins 2,4 & 8 respectively.

Thanks for the reply Chris.

So you think I wouldn't necessarily need to move anything from the existing quadlock to the 20-pin OABR connector, other than the 3 wires from previous 6-pin connector.

Do you think that will allow the gps signal as well as all the other data from the KOMBI to the HU as well?

[Chris.let]

Originally Posted by alberico

Thanks for the reply Chris.

So you think I wouldn't necessarily need to move anything from the existing quadlock to the 20-pin OABR connector, other than the 3 wires from previous 6-pin connector.

Do you think that will allow the gps signal as well as all the other data from the KOMBI to the HU as well?

Yep. I am no expert but that sounds about right. ATM carries all that data and GPS signal. If you can connect it to the head uniy, then you should he good to go. All the best.

[alberico]

Originally Posted by Chris.let

Yep. I am no expert but that sounds about right. ATM carries all that data and GPS signal. If you can connect it to the head uniy, then you should he good to go. All the best.

Thanks a bunch. I'm waiting for the 20-pin OABR connector for the EVO. When it arrives, without further ado, I'll give this a try. And will probably write down a comprehensive guide for people who are in my exact situation. Since F48s are not as common as F30/F31s, the number of people who are doing this retrofit is very limited and reliable sources are very scarce.

[isiarj20]

Hi, I'm at the same situation, and instead of repin the oabr, I bought an oabr 20 pin connector with cables and I put some (I don't know the name in english) pieces that takes the signal from the original cables. Look the attached pictures, this is all the info that I found trough different forums. The last one it's because one user says that sometimes the green and white cables of ethernet needs to be swapped.