[my335i403]

Just swapped turbo and need to update to 2h 93 octane, but tells meihave insufficient map credits... i went to protuning freaks and bought the 50 dollar map bundle. Where can i now get the map?

[ronanz]

you should be contacting bm3 support. You can get 3 or 4 different answers here..., or, get it directly from them (including actual support)

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[aps]

This is probably buried in the thread somehwere but looking for a quick answer and I may not be searching correctly -

I have agreed a price with someone who is selling their license. At what point should I pay them? Should I send payment first, then have the seller follow BM3's steps for license transfer? How do I confirm that they just won't take my payment and not transfer license?

[Tpriest7893]

Originally Posted by aps

This is probably buried in the thread somehwere but looking for a quick answer and I may not be searching correctly -

I have agreed a price with someone who is selling their license. At what point should I pay them? Should I send payment first, then have the seller follow BM3's steps for license transfer? How do I confirm that they just won't take my payment and not transfer license?

Use PayPal so if they screw you you can file a claim. Keep all messages and etc too. I would pay first and then they follow the procedure. I wouldn't give someone a license without them paying

[mlev]

Originally Posted by aps

This is probably buried in the thread somehwere but looking for a quick answer and I may not be searching correctly -

I have agreed a price with someone who is selling their license. At what point should I pay them? Should I send payment first, then have the seller follow BM3's steps for license transfer? How do I confirm that they just won't take my payment and not transfer license?

DO not send any money until going through Bootmod3 support. Reach out to them to let them know your intentions as a buyer and they will confirm that the license is good to go for a transfer.
Refer to this thread and learn from his mistake: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1670725
Then once they confirm, purchase using Paypal "goods and services" (not "gift/friends and family") and document everything if you can't make the purchase in person.
Any references by the seller for Venmo, cash app or gift payment/money order only etc are a hard pass.

[aps]

Originally Posted by Tpriest7893

Use PayPal so if they screw you you can file a claim. Keep all messages and etc too. I would pay first and then they follow the procedure. I wouldn't give someone a license without them paying

Originally Posted by mlev

DO not send any money until going through Bootmod3 support. Reach out to them to let them know your intentions as a buyer and they will confirm that the license is good to go for a transfer.
Refer to this thread and learn from his mistake: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1670725

Ugh - I ended up paying already using PayPal so that I have buyer protection. But I am going to email Bootmod3 right now. Hopefully I'm not about to fall into the same mess.

[Tpriest7893]

Originally Posted by aps

Ugh - I ended up paying already using PayPal so that I have buyer protection. But I am going to email Bootmod3 right now. Hopefully I'm not about to fall into the same mess.

Is the person selling it not giving you the license or giving you a run around?

[mlev]

Originally Posted by aps

Ugh - I ended up paying already using PayPal so that I have buyer protection. But I am going to email Bootmod3 right now. Hopefully I'm not about to fall into the same mess.

Edited my post above - hopefully you sent payment as service and not gift and you should be covered. There would've been an extra paypal service fee.

[aps]

Originally Posted by Tpriest7893

Is the person selling it not giving you the license or giving you a run around?

Originally Posted by mlev

Edited my post above - hopefully you sent payment as service and not gift and you should be covered. There would've been an extra paypal service fee.

I did use service/gift and was charged a fee so think I'm good there.

It's only been a couple hours since we agreed a price and I sent payment. He did respond saying he was "going to send them all the info now" and I asked him to CC me on the email, which he said he would do. I'm just getting a little paranoid because I haven't seen anything come through yet, but need to be patient I guess.

Much easier to deal with PayPal when it's a physical object.

[mlev]

Originally Posted by aps

I did use service/gift and was charged a fee so think I'm good there.

It's only been a couple hours since we agreed a price and I sent payment. He did respond saying he was "going to send them all the info now" and I asked him to CC me on the email, which he said he would do. I'm just getting a little paranoid because I haven't seen anything come through yet, but need to be patient I guess.

Much easier to deal with PayPal when it's a physical object.

You should be fine if you have to unfortunately go down that rabbit hole - but definitely still get confirmation from BM3 support. Hopefully the guy gave you his VIN or valid email address at least - they will need that to verify.
Unfortunately lots of dishonest people out there - and licenses can only be resold once, some folks don't realize that and others try to take advantage of it.

[ronanz]

Originally Posted by mlev

DO not send any money until going through Bootmod3 support. Reach out to them to let them know your intentions as a buyer and they will confirm that the license is good to go for a transfer.
Refer to this thread and learn from his mistake: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1670725
Then once they confirm, purchase using Paypal "goods and services" (not "gift/friends and family") and document everything if you can't make the purchase in person.
Any references by the seller for Venmo, cash app or gift payment/money order only etc are a hard pass.

THIS ^^^^ 1000%

You should be contacting PTF support. Ask seller to provide his/her Name and VIN number, provide to PTF letting them know you're just keeping them in the loop on license purchase

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[aps]

Thanks guys for the helpful info. I should have asked first, but there haven't been many licenses for sale and I jumped on it to beat others. Looks like he came through and he just sent PTF the email requesting the transfer and he copied me. Hope all is good from BM3's end. WOOO!

Edit: just got the license activation info! tuning fun begins

[ronanz]

Originally Posted by aps

Thanks guys for the helpful info. I should have asked first, but there haven't been many licenses for sale and I jumped on it to beat others. Looks like he came through and he just sent PTF the email requesting the transfer and he copied me. Hope all is good from BM3's end. WOOO!

Don't hope, be Proactive rather than Re-Active...reach out to PTF for further instruction/guidance

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[aps]

Originally Posted by ronanz

Don't hope, be Proactive rather than Re-Active...reach out to PTF for further instruction/guidance

.

haha yeah I had already sent them an email, they close that support ticket when they transferred the license.

for future buyers: definitely get the sellers VIN and check with PTF first

[khj24]

Hey all, I have a few logging questions/issues that I am hoping to get some help with. When you go to the dashboard to log there is supposed to be a blue button that says log all, but I am not seeing that. Has that been changed since the instructions were made?- do I only need to double tap to log everything? Also when trying to offline log, how do I go back to the sign in screen? Every time I go to the website I am already logged in.

"For logging WITHOUT internet access, you can use bootmod3 OFFLINE mode with your DEVICE as follows:

You need to log-in once to initialize vehicle data in the browser
Then go back to the sign in screen and click on "OFFLINE MODE" to go in."

Thanks a ton!!


EDIT: Nvm, figured it out. My laptop wasnt letting me scroll down to the logout tab. Fixed after restarting!

[DeeM55]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

I dont see manifold boost... you really need to have that to see if you are reaching boost targets, but suffice to say you aren't because even pre throttle is below target and throttle is open 100%. The fact that you are not reaching target and WGDC creeps up to nearly 100% really suggests a leak. Are you 6MT or 8AT? if 8AT you really need to do a full 4th gear pull, not a 2-3. See if the higher load in 4th allows you to reach boost targets.

Check out the Oring thread and boost leak thread for info on finding and fixing leaks, specifically with that connection.

Well I figured out what was causing the boost leak. My hunch was right. Dropped the IC and this is what I see. No o-ring at all! The last time this was adjusted was by an indy shop. So it's hard to believe that they would completely forget to put the ring back in, but it looks like that's exactly what happened :/


Luckily I had ordered the 4mm x 59mm o-ring so it's on now. It's sitting a little loose. Don't know if that's because it's new. If i don't hit my boost target then I'm moving up to the 4.5x60mm o-ring.

To be continued...

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by DeeM55

Well I figured out what was causing the boost leak. My hunch was right. Dropped the IC and this is what I see. No o-ring at all! The last time this was adjusted was by an indy shop. So it's hard to believe that they would completely forget to put the ring back in, but it looks like that's exactly what happened :/


Luckily I had ordered the 4mm x 59mm o-ring so it's on now. It's sitting a little loose. Don't know if that's because it's new. If i don't hit my boost target then I'm moving up to the 4.5x60mm o-ring.

To be continued...

If it is loose to where you can wiggle the CP-IC connection with the Oring and clip on, it's probably too lose. Sounds like you have already read the Oring thread, but you can read all about my boost leak issues there and how i eventually got it solved. The 4mm Oring was not enough in my case, even though it was definitely an improvment over stock. You can also check the boost leak thread if you want to make an actual pressure tester to verify no leaks rather than just relying on looking at logs after you have everything back together.

[DeeM55]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

If it is loose to where you can wiggle the CP-IC connection with the Oring and clip on, it's probably too lose. Sounds like you have already read the Oring thread, but you can read all about my boost leak issues there and how i eventually got it solved. The 4mm Oring was not enough in my case, even though it was definitely an improvment over stock. You can also check the boost leak thread if you want to make an actual pressure tester to verify no leaks rather than just relying on looking at logs after you have everything back together.

The o-ring was a bit loose. After the install and a test drive I noticed the car was running even worse.

So today I dropped the IC, pulled the bottom half of charge pipe off and what do I see: The o-ring had ripped when I pulled the cp onto the IC yesterday. I was under the car and must have pulled in the wrong direction which pinched and tore the o-ring. Not even sure but that's my guess.

Luckily, I had ordered two 4mm x 59mm o-rings just in case. So this time I put the IC on the floor, put the o-ring on the bottom half of the CP, lubed them both up with a bit of grease and pushed the cp onto the IC while it was still on the floor. It took a bit of strength but it sealed perfectly. No wiggle room at all. It was snug. I also shined a light through the top side (open side) of of the cp and checked to make sure that the o-ring hadn't ripped. This is how I initially saw that the previous o-ring had ripped.

I was extra careful to re-install the IC (with the bottom half of the CP on) onto the top half of the CP. Turned the car on and no more shakes or vibrations. RPM's remained steady too. Took it out for a drive, reset adaptions on bootmod3, and took a log. I hit 14.2 prethrottle boost with target being 15.

I know for a fact I put everything together just fine. I was super careful too. Not sure why I'm still not reaching target.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by DeeM55

The o-ring was a bit loose. After the install and a test drive I noticed the car was running even worse.

So today I dropped the IC, pulled the bottom half of charge pipe off and what do I see: The o-ring had ripped when I pulled the cp onto the IC yesterday. I was under the car and must have pulled in the wrong direction which pinched and tore the o-ring. Not even sure but that's my guess.

Luckily, I had ordered two 4mm x 59mm o-rings just in case. So this time I put the IC on the floor, put the o-ring on the bottom half of the CP, lubed them both up with a bit of grease and pushed the cp onto the IC while it was still on the floor. It took a bit of strength but it sealed perfectly. No wiggle room at all. It was snug. I also shined a light through the top side (open side) of of the cp and checked to make sure that the o-ring hadn't ripped. This is how I initially saw that the previous o-ring had ripped.

I was extra careful to re-install the IC (with the bottom half of the CP on) onto the top half of the CP. Turned the car on and no more shakes or vibrations. RPM's remained steady too. Took it out for a drive, reset adaptions on bootmod3, and took a log. I hit 14.2 prethrottle boost with target being 15.

I know for a fact I put everything together just fine. I was super careful too. Not sure why I'm still not reaching target.

Yeah, you need to use grease or engine oil to get them to slide on without folding or moving; i would not put the connections together dry. I'm still surprised the round Oring moved/ripped though.

Sounds like you fixed that leak. If it took effort to slide the CP on the IC and it does not wiggle i can pretty much guarantee its sealed (at least that connection).

That within normal deviation. Usually +/- 1 psi is considered normal. Did you log 4th with 8AT or 3rd with 6mt? Try a 1-4 log, and a 4th-5th log. You should get closer to target in high gears. I deviate a little in lower gears, but my 5th gear is within about 0.3psi across the RPM range.

You can also send your log to PTF for review to confirm its considered normal.

[DeeM55]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Yeah, you need to use grease or engine oil to get them to slide on without folding or moving; i would not put the connections together dry. I'm still surprised the round Oring moved/ripped though.

Sounds like you fixed that leak. If it took effort to slide the CP on the IC and it does not wiggle i can pretty much guarantee its sealed (at least that connection).

That within normal deviation. Usually +/- 1 psi is considered normal. Did you log 4th with 8AT or 3rd with 6mt? Try a 1-4 log, and a 4th-5th log. You should get closer to target in high gears. I deviate a little in lower gears, but my 5th gear is within about 0.3psi across the RPM range.

You can also send your log to PTF for review to confirm its considered normal.

4th gear pull with 8AT. Funny thing is I checked for codes and got a mixture too rich code. I've read that burble settings affect this. I have burbles set pretty high.

The good thing is no more lean or air mass too high codes.

[torkles]

i see the first time flashing on bm3 is ~3 minutes now for the dme unlock. is it still recommended to have the vehicle hooked up to a charger or is the flash time so short now that it's not really a problem anymore?

[e38740imd]

Originally Posted by torkles

i see the first time flashing on bm3 is ~3 minutes now for the dme unlock. is it still recommended to have the vehicle hooked up to a charger or is the flash time so short now that it's not really a problem anymore?

if it really is 3 minutes then i dont think you need it unless you have a week battery