[Oxidas1993]

Originally Posted by crisfeup@gmail.com

I already assembled the electrical board. Next step is put everything in the car.
I will keep you posted on the find result.

I have connected everything to my f32 but its not working. Seems like something is wrong as when I connect 12v positive wire to a board it straight away turns on ignition and does not turns off at all. And plus its not getting a tripple lock signal at all. So maybe I done something wrong or its not compatible with my car. 😂

[david51]

Originally Posted by crisfeup@gmail.com

Is there other place, than FEM unit, to connect the KCAN2_H and KCAN2_L?
I plan to put the electric board just above the obd plug. A connection near that place it would be easy to connect.

you can connect to the idrive wheel as I did
it's not mine but it's in the same place

[david51]

Originally Posted by Oxidas1993

I have connected everything to my f32 but its not working. Seems like something is wrong as when I connect 12v positive wire to a board it straight away turns on ignition and does not turns off at all. And plus its not getting a tripple lock signal at all. So maybe I done something wrong or its not compatible with my car. 😂

I had the same problem it was due to the LM2596S card which was defective (my relays were still on)
I bought another LM2596S card and no more problems

[Oxidas1993]

Originally Posted by david51

I had the same problem it was due to the LM2596S card which was defective (my relays were still on)
I bought another LM2596S card and no more problems

On my next days off will try to connect another LM2596S. Thank you

[Pondaire]

Originally Posted by AlbertoSONIC

Hi, should be about 30mA.

Arduino Nano itself operates with 17mA and other components are really low power consuming (fo example, MCP2515 uses 5mA).

This project is super cool! Amazing job!
I am doing something like this for my project as well but with an aftermarket remote fob and an ESP32 with WiFi, Bluetooth, LoRa and LTE. Initially I was using a standalone ATmega328p, but caved in for the extra possibilities of the ESP32 (phone control, OTA updates, etc).
I see you changed the unlock to lock to turn on the car. I was going to mention this as well. No need to unlock the car, just by pressing lock from inside the car and keeping the fob on until you turn on the car, it turns off the alarm and doesn't trigger the anti-thief.
Also, in mine, since I don't have a spare BMW fob and I'm using an aftermarket remote fob (with PKE), I actually have it to arm the alarm (red rear view mirror LED) when you press lock. In order to do this, if the car thinks there is a remote inside the car, all you need to do is activate the lock and battery of the in-car fob for a really short time (0.3 seconds?)... This way the lock signal is sent but the car does not have time to locate the fob inside the car.

Finally, in regards to the current draw you are seeing... 30mA is too high for the car and I'm surprised you haven't seen any messages of high battery use when you turn on the car manually. I believe the usual locked/shutdown battery current draw is 5-10mA.
Using a standalone microprocessor would help, but you can also use one of the many arduino libraries to put it in sleep mode until the button signal is received or every X seconds.
You can also use transistors instead of relays to drop the current even lower.
The other thing you can do is feed it exactly 3.3 or 5V, whichever you are using, with a good quality (and low quescient current) drop down buck converter or similar.

Again, amazing project and I'm happy to see someone has finally done this! Hopefully I'll finish my project one day and I can post about it lmao.

[AlbertoSONIC]

Originally Posted by Pondaire

This project is super cool! Amazing job!
I am doing something like this for my project as well but with an aftermarket remote fob and an ESP32 with WiFi, Bluetooth, LoRa and LTE. Initially I was using a standalone ATmega328p, but caved in for the extra possibilities of the ESP32 (phone control, OTA updates, etc).
I see you changed the unlock to lock to turn on the car. I was going to mention this as well. No need to unlock the car, just by pressing lock from inside the car and keeping the fob on until you turn on the car, it turns off the alarm and doesn't trigger the anti-thief.
Also, in mine, since I don't have a spare BMW fob and I'm using an aftermarket remote fob (with PKE), I actually have it to arm the alarm (red rear view mirror LED) when you press lock. In order to do this, if the car thinks there is a remote inside the car, all you need to do is activate the lock and battery of the in-car fob for a really short time (0.3 seconds?)... This way the lock signal is sent but the car does not have time to locate the fob inside the car.

Finally, in regards to the current draw you are seeing... 30mA is too high for the car and I'm surprised you haven't seen any messages of high battery use when you turn on the car manually. I believe the usual locked/shutdown battery current draw is 5-10mA.
Using a standalone microprocessor would help, but you can also use one of the many arduino libraries to put it in sleep mode until the button signal is received or every X seconds.
You can also use transistors instead of relays to drop the current even lower.
The other thing you can do is feed it exactly 3.3 or 5V, whichever you are using, with a good quality (and low quescient current) drop down buck converter or similar.

Again, amazing project and I'm happy to see someone has finally done this! Hopefully I'll finish my project one day and I can post about it lmao.

Hi! Thanks for this writeup!

ESP32 is really nice but... aren't you worried about its power consumption?

The idea of putting arduino to sleep is very nice, I'll have to look into it. 30mA is not so much but, combined with the insurance gps black box, it causes the "Battery discharges" warning in the idrive after a few days of car being parked.

About the relays, they don't cause a lot of power consumption. Actually, they don't consume anything when off. Regarding the voltage conversion, it's already done with a step down buck converter, pretty efficiently and with low quiescent current.

Hope to see your finished project soon!

[Pondaire]

Originally Posted by AlbertoSONIC

Hi! Thanks for this writeup!

ESP32 is really nice but... aren't you worried about its power consumption?

The idea of putting arduino to sleep is very nice, I'll have to look into it. 30mA is not so much but, combined with the insurance gps black box, it causes the "Battery discharges" warning in the idrive after a few days of car being parked.

About the relays, they don't cause a lot of power consumption. Actually, they don't consume anything when off. Regarding the voltage conversion, it's already done with a step down buck converter, pretty efficiently and with low quiescent current.

Hope to see your finished project soon!

This is the one I'm waiting to receive. My standalond ATMega328P ran low of memory since I have such a crazy algorithm to deal with all the I/O of the aftermarket remote alarm lol, so this should help.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000542688096.html?gatewayAdapt=Pc2Msite
https://github.com/Xinyuan-LilyGO/LilyGO-T-SIM7000G

It has enough people using it that the supplier actually listens to requests and makes improvements + releases code.
Current-wise it's supposed to be below 1mA during sleep. I've read of anywhere from 600 to 30 microAmps. Who knows.
It has an ESP32, WiFi, Bluetooth, LTE with 2G/3G backup, and a battery charger.
The last thing I'd like to add to my algorithm is something to control the AC/heater... But I think I need to deal with LIN in order to get this done.

[ViktorasLT95]

This is a very nice idea, but I will not be trying this, looks too hard for me

[mmari2]

would it work with manual gearbox?

[Oxidas1993]

Originally Posted by mmari2

would it work with manual gearbox?

I got manual. So far, I did not started engine even with clutch pressed.

[Oxidas1993]

Originally Posted by ViktorasLT95

This is a very nice idea, but I will not be trying this, looks too hard for me

Man kažko tai nesigauna užvest. Iš pradžių reagavo į pultelio paspaudimus, dabar jau nebereaguoja. Šiaip pats pajungimas tikrai nesunkus. Daugiau darbo išsiardyt pačią mašiną, negu susilituot viską 😂 tik tiek, kad jau 3 kartus bandžiau perdaryt viską, nesiveda nors tu ką 😂

[blckm328]

Thanks! Gotta do it 💪🏻

[bnkrupf30]

Thanks Albertsonic, my remote start works great. Only problem I have is turning the car completely off when I do the shutdown procedure. Lights and stereo stays on.

[AlbertoSONIC]

Originally Posted by mmari2

would it work with manual gearbox?

Yeah it actually does. First of all, you have to connect to clutch switch instead of break light switch. In the circuit, you have to remove the resistor on the brake light switch relay output. Finally, you have to use the code from "manual" branch instead of "master" branch on github.

Originally Posted by crisfeup@gmail.com

Dear All,

First of all I want to thanks Albertosonic that share with us this project allowing the forum member to make this great retrofit to our cars.
THANKS Albertosonic.

I manage to install in the car and everything works just fine.
The only issue that I notice is the drop of battery power after 2 days with the car completely stopped. I have a 14,2V to 12,1V measured by the battery charger.

Please find some pictures of my project.

Video -
https://streamable.com/2q87s2

Thanks!
I'm aware of this battery issue. I'm trying to find a way to make it working without needing to stay always on.

Originally Posted by bnkrupf30

Thanks Albertsonic, my remote start works great. Only problem I have is turning the car completely off when I do the shutdown procedure. Lights and stereo stays on.

I'm aware of this issue aswell but unfortunately I haven't found a solution yet.

[Wires]

Can you trigger the driver door switch on the shutdown to make it look like you opened the door?

[AlbertoSONIC]

Originally Posted by Wires

Can you trigger the driver door switch on the shutdown to make it look like you opened the door?

Not from CAN bus. You can probably do that by hooking to the door wires themselves.

[ruimrb]

To actually shut the lights and radio off you normally just press the start button again after turning off.
Wouldn't this work?

[AlbertoSONIC]

Originally Posted by ruimrb

To actually shut the lights and radio off you normally just press the start button again after turning off.
Wouldn't this work?

Do DRL turn off as well? I don't remember if they stay on or not after pressing power button again..

[ruimrb]

Nope. DRLs stay on.
But still, it's better to have the Xenons and the radio shut down as soon as the car turn off to avoid wasting the battery.
As for the loosing battery problem... only idea I have is having another battery for the arduino. It would charge from a 12V feed when the car was on and when the power was off it would use the battery...
Only problem would be the autonomy, probably after sitting for 2-3 days this function wouldn't work because the arduinos battery would be empty.

[rkrishnan]

Hey AlbertoSONIC , how did you fetch the IDs for the kcan messages? I'm trying to find a more comprehensive list but there's very little documentation.

EDIT: Nevermind, I found em here: http://www.loopybunny.co.uk/CarPC/fi...ter=flag_KCAN2

[SlayTheEarth]

Did anyone resolve the battery drain concern?

Also, any reason as to why this wouldn’t work for an e90?

[dengus]

I got manual working and I haven’t got it working all the time. It works perfect. I got 12v from lighter. At the beginning I was pressing close wait 1 sec and the pres 3 times but I realize that works well just pressing 3 times.

Originally Posted by AlbertoSONIC

Yeah it actually does. First of all, you have to connect to clutch switch instead of break light switch. In the circuit, you have to remove the resistor on the brake light switch relay output. Finally, you have to use the code from "manual" branch instead of "master" branch on github.



Thanks!
I'm aware of this battery issue. I'm trying to find a way to make it working without needing to stay always on.



I'm aware of this issue aswell but unfortunately I haven't found a solution yet.