[jellvand]

Originally Posted by RedErik

I know it doesn't help you at all, but I never used Android for my phonecalls. I was always going back to OEM to make or answer a call. Android was always terrible experience for that... and few other things.

I really don't know want to say as there are hardware and software issues. Hardware is your built in microphone, software is audio driver. You could look for an app that gives you a fine condition control over volume and see if that helps. Other than that you could always roll back to previous version.

Thanks for your reply! I tried stuff like that but cannot get it to work.
I'll try a factory reset and reinstall of the KSW 3.1.5. Who knows that fixes the issue.

I already have the soundrestorer app by the way. Also didn't work. Well, it did solve my low volume problems only not during calls...

I'm wondering if I cannot just avoid all KSW stuff? But I need three things:
1) a dialer for phone calls over bluetooth
2) the reverse camera support
3) the steering wheel buttons for previous/next track.

And I doubt those 3 things can be solved by aftermarket apps...

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by jellvand

Thanks for your reply! I tried stuff like that but cannot get it to work.
I'll try a factory reset and reinstall of the KSW 3.1.5. Who knows that fixes the issue.

I already have the soundrestorer app by the way. Also didn't work. Well, it did solve my low volume problems only not during calls...

I'm wondering if I cannot just avoid all KSW stuff? But I need three things:
1) a dialer for phone calls over bluetooth
2) the reverse camera support
3) the steering wheel buttons for previous/next track.

And I doubt those 3 things can be solved by aftermarket apps...

2 and 3 are easy as these have nothing to do with KSW. You could use Jelle's ID7 Launcher and never look at the KSW stuff anymore.

Problems start with Bluetooth and dialer. Technical you could install Google's dialer, but Bluetooth is locked on these units and control of it is handed to the KSW BT app that combines phone pairing and dialer. We didn't work on a replacement for that yet as it's a bit more complex because of how f***ed up the system image is by our Chinese friends.

[vince.tc]

Originally Posted by vince.tc

Try rolled back to 2.0, no issue, tried 2.3.6, no issue

Try again 3.1.5, touch pointer happened again…

I do believe something related to screen resolution maybe...

1280x480p vs 1920x720p

any version below 2.7.4 work just fine, version 2.7.8 onwards have touch screen accuracy issue, mine is non HD android...

[phan]

Randomly got the "NO SIGNAL" screen after starting my car up yesterday, when switching from BMW CIC (e70 X5) to Android, rendering Android completely unusable (FYI I only use Android for apps and OEM CIC for most everything else). I hadn't touched my Android 9 10.25" since installing it so I went through the motions and upgraded from 9-10/1.2.0, then to the latest firmware 3.1.5. Installation went fine and I no longer receive the "NO SIGNAL" error, thankfully, and was able to use Android normally yet again.

Previously, I was using the default BMW camera + CIC view when putting my car into reverse - the screen would auto-switch from Android to BMW/CIC, I'd use the default BMW cam/view, and all was functioning properly. I don't recall if I set it up this way before or if it came that way by default but it'd been working fine for over a year.

After the upgrade to 3.1.5, though, it's attempting to use the reverse view within Android and not switching to the OEM BMW view any longer. Because of this, I'm getting "NO SIGNAL" instead of seeing the reverse camera view (I get the grid/lines/etc. just fine), as well as OEM PDC giving me an error bong/light on my dash.

How do I either:
A. Switch back to using the OEM BMW CIC view + PDC.
B. Use Android's reverse view that's currently enabled, but fix it so it actually uses the OEM BMW camera + PDC (getting rid of the NO SIGNAL + PDC issues I currently have with the Android view).

I checked the Avin "FACTORY" setting(s) within Android and can't seem to find an option to make either of the above work, unless I'm looking in the wrong location...?

Any help would be GREATLY appreciate, thanks!

[elmonch]

Originally Posted by Boklsg

Hi. I have change the default music player via factory setting. Everything works fine before i restart the hu. Once I restart the hu the old music player apps will auto play. But not the player app that I have change. Any idea how to fix?

I have this same issue
Did you find a way to fix it?

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by elmonch

I have this same issue
Did you find a way to fix it?

Force stopping the original music player should fix auto play behaviour on start. However it is not possible to have auto play on start with 3rd party music players. There would have to be that function coded to the launcher itself but there is none. You can either use 3rd part launcher like Jelle's ID7 Launcher and select your autostart apps or create a Tasker/Automate scrip to do just that.

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by phan

Randomly got the "NO SIGNAL" screen after starting my car up yesterday, when switching from BMW CIC (e70 X5) to Android, rendering Android completely unusable (FYI I only use Android for apps and OEM CIC for most everything else). I hadn't touched my Android 9 10.25" since installing it so I went through the motions and upgraded from 9-10/1.2.0, then to the latest firmware 3.1.5. Installation went fine and I no longer receive the "NO SIGNAL" error, thankfully, and was able to use Android normally yet again.

Previously, I was using the default BMW camera + CIC view when putting my car into reverse - the screen would auto-switch from Android to BMW/CIC, I'd use the default BMW cam/view, and all was functioning properly. I don't recall if I set it up this way before or if it came that way by default but it'd been working fine for over a year.

After the upgrade to 3.1.5, though, it's attempting to use the reverse view within Android and not switching to the OEM BMW view any longer. Because of this, I'm getting "NO SIGNAL" instead of seeing the reverse camera view (I get the grid/lines/etc. just fine), as well as OEM PDC giving me an error bong/light on my dash.

How do I either:
A. Switch back to using the OEM BMW CIC view + PDC.
B. Use Android's reverse view that's currently enabled, but fix it so it actually uses the OEM BMW camera + PDC (getting rid of the NO SIGNAL + PDC issues I currently have with the Android view).

I checked the Avin "FACTORY" setting(s) within Android and can't seem to find an option to make either of the above work, unless I'm looking in the wrong location...?

Any help would be GREATLY appreciate, thanks!

Settings > System > Camera Selection
Aftermarket Camera
OEM Camera
360 Camera

Choose OEM if you want to use your BMW reverse camera.

[jellvand]

Originally Posted by RedErik

2 and 3 are easy as these have nothing to do with KSW. You could use Jelle's ID7 Launcher and never look at the KSW stuff anymore.

Problems start with Bluetooth and dialer. Technical you could install Google's dialer, but Bluetooth is locked on these units and control of it is handed to the KSW BT app that combines phone pairing and dialer. We didn't work on a replacement for that yet as it's a bit more complex because of how f***ed up the system image is by our Chinese friends.

I found the solution.
First tried factory reset, then consecutively installed 3.15 and 3.1.2 and 3.0.5 and 2.8.3. None of these fixed my problem, but I knew it used to work with 2.8.3 before.
Turns out it's my Fiio DAC. If I disconnect this external DAC, problem is solved!

So now I have bought a DAC for nothing it seems!

Conclusion: external DAC cripples bluetooth call audio, only the audio that's being sent to the speakers during a call (other person can hear me just fine) and all other audio is fine.

SO anybody know of a solution?

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by jellvand

I found the solution.
First tried factory reset, then consecutively installed 3.15 and 3.1.2 and 3.0.5 and 2.8.3. None of these fixed my problem, but I knew it used to work with 2.8.3 before.
Turns out it's my Fiio DAC. If I disconnect this external DAC, problem is solved!

So now I have bought a DAC for nothing it seems!

Conclusion: external DAC cripples bluetooth call audio, only the audio that's being sent to the speakers during a call (other person can hear me just fine) and all other audio is fine.

SO anybody know of a solution?

That would be the audio driver, to be more precise it's the audio routing. We tried to modify audio routing but the config file is very convoluted and ultimately we gave up on it... sorry.

I appreciate that calls via Android are important to you, but I would say that you spent most of the time listening to music rather than making calls, right? So in my eyes clear sound has priority over call volume, and OEM calls would be my preferred way (has been when I had Android in my car).

Anyways let me know iDrive version you currently have and how audio is routed without the DAC. I'm thinking of another solution that might just work.

[elmonch]

Originally Posted by RedErik

Force stopping the original music player should fix auto play behaviour on start. However it is not possible to have auto play on start with 3rd party music players. There would have to be that function coded to the launcher itself but there is none. You can either use 3rd part launcher like Jelle's ID7 Launcher and select your autostart apps or create a Tasker/Automate scrip to do just that.

I will try, thank you.

Yes, it's a shame some other cheap units have that 3rd party autoplay option, but not ours, same for gps app.

I run a flow in automate to do that, actually it triggers both waze an spotify (autoplay) in split screen, but I had the low volume issue.
I've already intalled the app you told me to fix the volume, but haven't tested it yet, fingers crossed.

If I got it working I'll be so happy, it really was driving my crazy, and my girlfriend would be happier than me, I can tell you that...

Thanks for all the support!

[jellvand]

Originally Posted by RedErik

That would be the audio driver, to be more precise it's the audio routing. We tried to modify audio routing but the config file is very convoluted and ultimately we gave up on it... sorry.

I appreciate that calls via Android are important to you, but I would say that you spent most of the time listening to music rather than making calls, right? So in my eyes clear sound has priority over call volume, and OEM calls would be my preferred way (has been when I had Android in my car).

Anyways let me know iDrive version you currently have and how audio is routed without the DAC. I'm thinking of another solution that might just work.

Very interesting 🤔
I agree music is top priority but since my car doesn't have the built in Bluetooth it was also a driver for me to get the head unit.... I tend to call quite often in the car as I think it saves time because I can combine it with getting to my destination .

My car doesn't have Idrive.
Also no Bluetooth.
The setup is as follows: android HU / fiio DAC / aux in from original car business radio
It's a Z4 from 2010 if that matters....

Appreciate the support!

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by jellvand

Very interesting 🤔
I agree music is top priority but since my car doesn't have the built in Bluetooth it was also a driver for me to get the head unit.... I tend to call quite often in the car as I think it saves time because I can combine it with getting to my destination .

My car doesn't have Idrive.
Also no Bluetooth.
The setup is as follows: android HU / fiio DAC / aux in from original car business radio
It's a Z4 from 2010 if that matters....

Appreciate the support!

Ok, but do you have your AUX port somewhere in the armrest / glovebox area that you use to plug Android in, or is it at the back of the OEM radio?

[jellvand]

Originally Posted by RedErik

Ok, but do you have your AUX port somewhere in the armrest / glovebox area that you use to plug Android in, or is it at the back of the OEM radio?

Yep, in the armrest!

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by jellvand

Yep, in the armrest!

Ok, so here's an idea: when a car is fitted with an AUX port it has then higher priority than the AUX connection at the back of the iDrive/radio unit (in most cases that is). So when you have your FiiO fed via the armrest AUX port, Android is still connected through the quadlock to your radio and it still has physical audio connection there via AUX pins. As we know audio driver on these units is not the best (to say it politely) and cannot handle audio routing correctly. Now, I don't know if that will work or improve anything as I never tried it myself, but for how cheap it is, it's worth trying anyways. Get a cheap 3.5mm jack splitter cable and connect Android to your armrest both via the FiiO and directly - so parallel audio connection. This might sort out your issue.
[IMG]https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/..._AC_SY450_.jpg[/IMG]

[elmonch]

Originally Posted by RedErik

Force stopping the original music player should fix auto play behaviour on start. However it is not possible to have auto play on start with 3rd party music players. There would have to be that function coded to the launcher itself but there is none. You can either use 3rd part launcher like Jelle's ID7 Launcher and select your autostart apps or create a Tasker/Automate scrip to do just that.

Hi RedErik
I tried to force stopping the original music player, but I couldn't do it, after rebooting it autostarts again, even with no permision.
How did you manage to freeze it?

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by elmonch

Hi RedErik
I tried to force stopping the original music player, but I couldn't do it, after rebooting it autostarts again, even with no permision.
How did you manage to freeze it?

I just stopped the current song that was playing, closed the music app, force stopped it from Android settings, opened Spotify and start play something. After my next reboot the default music player wasn't autostarting anymore.

[jellvand]

Originally Posted by RedErik

Ok, so here's an idea: when a car is fitted with an AUX port it has then higher priority than the AUX connection at the back of the iDrive/radio unit (in most cases that is). So when you have your FiiO fed via the armrest AUX port, Android is still connected through the quadlock to your radio and it still has physical audio connection there via AUX pins. As we know audio driver on these units is not the best (to say it politely) and cannot handle audio routing correctly. Now, I don't know if that will work or improve anything as I never tried it myself, but for how cheap it is, it's worth trying anyways. Get a cheap 3.5mm jack splitter cable and connect Android to your armrest both via the FiiO and directly - so parallel audio connection. This might sort out your issue.
[IMG]https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/..._AC_SY450_.jpg[/IMG]

Thanks for your help, you seriously know a thing or two about these units....
I had the splitter cable you suggested lying around and tried it out.
It is kinda working. I'd say the max call volume is at a little over half of the volume without an external DAC. I have no idea why this is though...
Its usable at stand still but when driving, it's too low.

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by jellvand

Thanks for your help, you seriously know a thing or two about these units....
I had the splitter cable you suggested lying around and tried it out.
It is kinda working. I'd say the max call volume is at a little over half of the volume without an external DAC. I have no idea why this is though...
Its usable at stand still but when driving, it's too low.

Hmm, that's not the behaviour I was hoping for... there is one more thing to try - an app, Lesser Audio Switch. Download it, try few settings, try to set everything to go through your DAC and see if that improves anything.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...n_GB&gl=US

[royb92]

hi,

I got the E10K DAC. now I connected the USB port to one of the USB inputs in the HU, and I connected the AUX input in the DAC to the AUDIO IN on the cable that came with the HU (I did not connect it to the armrest aux) Is this correct?
pics:
https://ibb.co/BGxVwwB
https://ibb.co/dtxjfLw

[tatu611088]

Hello!
I have got ZLINK problem..
It doesn't allow activation and DevID: Err, NONE! write it out on the screen.
I tried another version of the app as well. HU version first time 2.8.6, I just upgraded to 3.1.5, but the situation is unchanged.
Anyone have any ideas?

Thx

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by royb92

hi,

I got the E10K DAC. now I connected the USB port to one of the USB inputs in the HU, and I connected the AUX input in the DAC to the AUDIO IN on the cable that came with the HU (I did not connect it to the armrest aux) Is this correct?
pics:
https://ibb.co/BGxVwwB
https://ibb.co/dtxjfLw

Where is this AUX IN going to? Back to Android or car? If back to the car then this is correct, otherwise not so much.

[inkiboo]

How often does Zlink crash for people? I would say at least two or three times per journey, and I activate the PDC, once it returns touchscreen won't work for two minutes.

Is this normal or is my head unit broken?