[izaazk]

Anyone have any idea why I am getting this code / how to fix it??

I have been noticing horrible low end power.... could this be the issue??

Ive searched around and havnt found aything on it yet..


P112E - Manifold Absolute Pressure to Throttle Angle - Too Low (Bank 1)

Google results say possible faulty sensor ... (which one )

Any help would be appreciated

[RoundelM3]

Yes, it sounds like you may have a boost leak somewhere between the turbo and the throttle body. Low intake pressure usually indicates that condition. It could also be a TMAP sensor, near the throttle body, but a cracked charge pipe is the most common issue.

[izaazk]

Originally Posted by roundel335

Yes, it sounds like you may have a boost leak somewhere between the turbo and the throttle body. Low intake pressure usually indicates that condition. It could also be a TMAP sensor, near the throttle body, but a cracked charge pipe is the most common issue.

I thought so too...

I have a replaced charge pipe though with a VRSF one....

I've double checked the silicone bracket before but I'll do it again ...

Any other symptoms of a bad sensor? That's what I'm thinking....

It's also not consistent about the lack of low end power... some days it's good some days it's bad

[RoundelM3]

Originally Posted by izaazk

I thought so too...

I have a replaced charge pipe though with a VRSF one....

I've double checked the silicone bracket before but I'll do it again ...

Any other symptoms of a bad sensor? That's what I'm thinking....

It's also not consistent about the lack of low end power... some days it's good some days it's bad

Could be that if the sensor is bad, the DME pulls back power or something akin to that. Probably need to have a good Indy shop take a look at it, one with a BMW diagnostic computer system. Only other recourse is the dealership. Other thing to look at is the turbo wastegate - if it's not closing all the way, you'll get low boost.

[izaazk]

Originally Posted by roundel335

Could be that if the sensor is bad, the DME pulls back power or something akin to that. Probably need to have a good Indy shop take a look at it, one with a BMW diagnostic computer system. Only other recourse is the dealership. Other thing to look at is the turbo wastegate - if it's not closing all the way, you'll get low boost.

See it's hard to look at he wastegate but I build pressure up high and get boost !!!

Just daily driving is horrible at times and I get honked at every red light cause it takes me forever to get moving !!

A Ford Focus is faster then me off the red light -.-

[RoundelM3]

Again, the mechanism that opens and closes the wastegate may not be operating properly. If you have the pneumatic model, it could be a deteriorated vacuum hose; if you have the electronic model, it may not be responding properly or not calibrated. Best to have it checked at a qualified Indy shop or a dealership.

[cosmicdebris48059]

Originally Posted by izaazk

See it's hard to look at he wastegate but I build pressure up high and get boost !!!

Just daily driving is horrible at times and I get honked at every red light cause it takes me forever to get moving !!

A Ford Focus is faster then me off the red light -.-

Seriously,... A Ford Focus!!!???..... Come on man, you're kidding right!?...

[izaazk]

Originally Posted by cosmicdebris48059

Seriously,... A Ford Focus!!!???..... Come on man, you're kidding right!?...

I'm serious it's like my engine will rev to 2.5k and I gain like 1-4mph of speed ....

[RoundelM3]

Wait...that sounds like "limp mode". You definitely need to get that looked at. Does your car have the M-Sport package? I've had something similar happen due to a faulty auxiliary cooling radiator/fan assembly (which is only on M-Sport models), but the code that threw was different. I still think you may have something wrong with your wastegate actuator.

[enjoythemusic]

Originally Posted by izaazk

I'm serious it's like my engine will rev to 2.5k and I gain like 1-4mph of speed ....

Let us know what the dealer / mechanic says.

[maleman000]

I had this code last summer caused by a dirty MAF, ended up with a slight oil film from a K&N.

[izaazk]

Haven't gone to a dealer yet (no warranty)

I'll have to find an Indy that is good around my area (Chicago)!!!

And see like if I do a trans adaptation reset (through the BMWAI coder app)... it'll work better for a few days!!!

If I punch it I have good power just daily driving I can barely move and rev high as hell :/

I'm gonna try cleaning MAP and MAf sensor and see what happens (recently replaced MAF but had same issue before anyway)

[izaazk]

Update....


Replaced MAP sensor and same problem!!

Any ideas here? Can't go to mechanic until Thursday and it's a nightmare to drive my car

and am wasting fuel like crazy.... quarter tank every 100 miles

[izaazk]

BUMPPP

[afranke]

"Manifold Absolute Pressure to Throttle Angle - Too Low (Bank1)"

The fault is recognized when the relationship between the
indicated intake manifold pressure and the mass airflow
calculated based on throttle-valve angle is not correct.

Potential problem source(s):
- Measured value for intake
manifold pressure (absolute) is
too low

- Defective plug or wiring harness

- Vacuum leak within induction
tract/crankcase

- Incorrect throttle-valve angle

- Pressure sensor defective
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Check intake system and crankcase for leakage
- Check throttle valve (contamination, carbon deposits,
icing)
- Check wiring harness between intake-manifold
pressure sensor and DME
- Check plug, wiring harness at electric throttle-valve
actuator
- Replace pressure sensor
- Replace throttle valve

[izaazk]

Originally Posted by afranke

"Manifold Absolute Pressure to Throttle Angle - Too Low (Bank1)"

The fault is recognized when the relationship between the
indicated intake manifold pressure and the mass airflow
calculated based on throttle-valve angle is not correct.

Potential problem source(s):
- Measured value for intake
manifold pressure (absolute) is
too low

- Defective plug or wiring harness

- Vacuum leak within induction
tract/crankcase

- Incorrect throttle-valve angle

- Pressure sensor defective
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Check intake system and crankcase for leakage
- Check throttle valve (contamination, carbon deposits,
icing)
- Check wiring harness between intake-manifold
pressure sensor and DME
- Check plug, wiring harness at electric throttle-valve
actuator
- Replace pressure sensor
- Replace throttle valve

I?ve done all of the sensor replacing and car updating etc....

Last thing left is replace throttle body...

I know my battery is bad... could it be causing these issues

[afranke]

Did you check for leaks using a pressure or smoke test? Inspected every centimeter of the wiring harness to make sure it's not damaged somewhere? I'd want to verify all of that before spending that much on a new TB. Maybe just some TB cleaner is needed? Is the TB gunked up and not opening/closing all the way? I wouldn't think battery has anything to do with it.

[izaazk]

Originally Posted by afranke

Did you check for leaks using a pressure or smoke test? Inspected every centimeter of the wiring harness to make sure it's not damaged somewhere? I'd want to verify all of that before spending that much on a new TB. Maybe just some TB cleaner is needed? Is the TB gunked up and not opening/closing all the way? I wouldn't think battery has anything to do with it.

I have checked all the connections have done a smoke test but nothing is seen out of ordinary...

I replaced both map and tmap already

[Axman85]

izaazk - did you ever get this resolved? my 335 is having the same issue and can't seem to locate the fault anywhere. I did replace the boost solenoid a while back and the new one is making the same noises as the old one. Not sure if this is connected or not.

[izaazk]

Originally Posted by Axman85

izaazk - did you ever get this resolved? my 335 is having the same issue and can't seem to locate the fault anywhere. I did replace the boost solenoid a while back and the new one is making the same noises as the old one. Not sure if this is connected or not.

I never resolved it man... i gave up and traded out the car... i took every avenue and just thought it might be the DME at the end of the day

[Axman85]

Originally Posted by izaazk

I never resolved it man... i gave up and traded out the car... i took every avenue and just thought it might be the DME at the end of the day

Did you use a K&N filter by chance? I removed mine and went back to stock and the CEL cleared itself and has not ping ponged on and off every 10-15 miles. Have actually gone 120 miles or so with out issue. Hope it sticks.

[snakewiz437]

Axman85 Did you finally figured out? Got the same problem on my n55.