[Mikewrite]

Anyone? There's nothing on the net about this code that I can find, other than two other guys whose cars popped the same code within the past two months, one with a 2013 AH3 like me, another with a 2013 AH5. Mine's at 57,000 miles, comparable to the other AH3 guy's car. I smell a pattern.

I pulled the code with an Innova 3020a reader, the doc for which indicates this might be something in the hybrid propulsion system. Which scares me as to ease of repair and cost. Obviously, I'd rather DIY if it's not ridiculously difficult.

No discernible symptoms when driving. MIL is yellow outline, always on after start, not "filled in" at all, just the outline.

Code reader last I checked (yesterday) shows one permanent, one pending, a third permanent.

Thanks for any insight.

[Mikewrite]

Sooo dealer says code shows misfires on 5 cylinders and ISTA shows ignition coils need replacing. Wanted $1,100+ to replace coils and plugs.

I can get the parts for about 400 bucks and will do this myself.

They said it's not unusual to need coils after only 57,000 miles, and that the factory Bosch coils are now replaced with Delphi, which last longer.

Coils in my 97 328 at 235,000 miles have never been replaced...

[jandref321]

I'm fairly new to FI cars, but from what I understand the coils/plugs don't last as long. How do you like the AH3 overall? Any other major problems? I was looking at the 330e but now considering AH3 since it has the N55.

[SteveinArizona]

Originally Posted by jandref321

I'm fairly new to FI cars, but from what I understand the coils/plugs don't last as long. How do you like the AH3 overall? Any other major problems? I was looking at the 330e but now considering AH3 since it has the N55.

I think it depends on the type of driving you do. From everything I have read, the AH3 is faster than the 330e (which I have) but the 330e is plenty fast.

If you do a lot of city speed local driving, the 330e is a much better choice because you can use the pure electric mode and save gas and the environment. There are many days when I never use the gas engine (driving to a local golf course, supermarket, Costco, bank, etc.). But if I need the power, the gas engine cuts in seamlessly when I step on the accelerator.

[jandref321]

Originally Posted by SteveinArizona

I think it depends on the type of driving you do. From everything I have read, the AH3 is faster than the 330e (which I have) but the 330e is plenty fast.

If you do a lot of city speed local driving, the 330e is a much better choice because you can use the pure electric mode and save gas and the environment. There are many days when I never use the gas engine (driving to a local golf course, supermarket, Costco, bank, etc.). But if I need the power, the gas engine cuts in seamlessly when I step on the accelerator.

Thanks! I went to the local dealership and had the wife test drive both. AH3 was definitely faster, but a little rough on the transition from electric to gas. Could have been the car, but felt super smooth and quiet then a big lurch when the gas kicked in. The 330e was definitely slower but not a fair comparison since the batteries were mostly dead when test driven. The electric-gas transition in the 330e was perfect like you said.

We didn't end up getting it though lol...salesman said that they won't sell under MSRP here in Hawaii and if I wanted a better deal then go back to the mainland I feel like I dodged a bullet anyway since the full electric 3 series should be out the end of next year. We can hold out.

[livinlrg05]

Same problem code here, just popped up yesterday... taking it into bmw tomorrow morning. Any updates, info, or resolution to the problem?

[Mikewrite]

Finally was able to take care of this. The P codes from generic readers are useless. Carly showed a code, I don't remember the number now, which indicated a bad fuel pressure sensor at the tank. This sounded like the LPFP to me, which has an integrated sensor and literally sticks out of the top of the gas tank, under the rear seat. I had already had this replaced under warranty by the dealer about a year and a half ago as the one from the factory was a known bad part that caused the MIL to light up.

Well, replacing that pump cleared that fault code - but not the MIL. Carly also showed some puzzling and to me obscure other faults (AC compressor but AC working; something else about a rear electrical module) and I was done futzing with this car.

Took it to an indy shop recommended to me by a long-time BMW owner. They diagnosed failing auxiliary battery, with good volts but shit for amps, which was underpowering various systems like the AC.

And triggering the MIL, which with a new batt is gone at last. The rough idle was because of coding glitches; upgraded coding fixed that. (This BMW specialty shop has been in business for 25 years; the owner said the AH3 required "extremely complicated coding" that took several tries before the car would accept it.)

So the upshot is this car while a lot of fun to drive is one persnickety machine.

[livinlrg05]

Originally Posted by Mikewrite

Finally was able to take care of this. The P codes from generic readers are useless. Carly showed a code, I don't remember the number now, which indicated a bad fuel pressure sensor at the tank. This sounded like the LPFP to me, which has an integrated sensor and literally sticks out of the top of the gas tank, under the rear seat. I had already had this replaced under warranty by the dealer about a year and a half ago as the one from the factory was a known bad part that caused the MIL to light up.

Well, replacing that pump cleared that fault code - but not the MIL. Carly also showed some puzzling and to me obscure other faults (AC compressor but AC working; something else about a rear electrical module) and I was done futzing with this car.

Took it to an indy shop recommended to me by a long-time BMW owner. They diagnosed failing auxiliary battery, with good volts but shit for amps, which was underpowering various systems like the AC.

And triggering the MIL, which with a new batt is gone at last. The rough idle was because of coding glitches; upgraded coding fixed that. (This BMW specialty shop has been in business for 25 years; the owner said the AH3 required "extremely complicated coding" that took several tries before the car would accept it.)

So the upshot is this car while a lot of fun to drive is one persnickety machine.

Yeah, Bmw ended up replacing the battery and it fixed the code.

[jprx360]

Originally Posted by livinlrg05

Yeah, Bmw ended up replacing the battery and it fixed the code.

Hello people. My 2013 AH3 had the same problem. Mileage @ 58k, check engine popped and brought to a BMW non-dealer shop and diagnose with bad auxiliary battery and O2 sensor upper stream. It cost me around $300 including labor just to replace battery and didnt had to replace O2 sensor because of this post. So far check engine not popping. I guess battery fixed MIL codes. Good luck all and will update post if anything occurs.

[AH3Sean]

Just in case anyone comes to this thread via search:

My Activehybrid 3 had numerous faults that I diagnosed to be 12v battery (batteries were 5.5 years old from build date). I actually replaced the auxiliary battery with a Bosch 35 AGM for more amps instead of the dealer's option. Had to modify the battery tray to accept the longer battery (9.1" vs 7" for the OEM Type 63). Been great for the last 1000 miles - no codes.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by AH3Sean

Just in case anyone comes to this thread via search:

My Activehybrid 3 had numerous faults that I diagnosed to be 12v battery (batteries were 5.5 years old from build date). I actually replaced the auxiliary battery with a Bosch 35 AGM for more amps instead of the dealer's option. Had to modify the battery tray to accept the longer battery (9.1" vs 7" for the OEM Type 63). Been great for the last 1000 miles - no codes.

How did you modify battery tray? Wouldn’t this modification screwup the angle of the vent hose?

How did you register the new battery in the car access system?

[dcarter199209]

Did you have to take the car in for the new battery to be registered? They told me something about the car wouldn't recognize the new battery without being recoded.

[MikeHarris1128]

Originally Posted by Mikewrite

Anyone? There's nothing on the net about this code that I can find, other than two other guys whose cars popped the same code within the past two months, one with a 2013 AH3 like me, another with a 2013 AH5. Mine's at 57,000 miles, comparable to the other AH3 guy's car. I smell a pattern.

I pulled the code with an Innova 3020a reader, the doc for which indicates this might be something in the hybrid propulsion system. Which scares me as to ease of repair and cost. Obviously, I'd rather DIY if it's not ridiculously difficult.

No discernible symptoms when driving. MIL is yellow outline, always on after start, not "filled in" at all, just the outline.

Code reader last I checked (yesterday) shows one permanent, one pending, a third permanent.

Thanks for any insight.

I’m having the same issue. 2013 AH3, 71k mi and it showed the code P1AA5.

[dcarter199209]

Originally Posted by MikeHarris1128

I’m having the same issue. 2013 AH3, 71k mi and it showed the code P1AA5.

Did you ever get this issue resolved? Was it covered under any warranties? About how much did it cost you?

[jklenke1]

Originally Posted by AH3Sean

Just in case anyone comes to this thread via search:

My Activehybrid 3 had numerous faults that I diagnosed to be 12v battery (batteries were 5.5 years old from build date). I actually replaced the auxiliary battery with a Bosch 35 AGM for more amps instead of the dealer's option. Had to modify the battery tray to accept the longer battery (9.1" vs 7" for the OEM Type 63). Been great for the last 1000 miles - no codes.

I know this is an older thread, but I recently replaced my factory auxiliary battery with the same Bosch 35 AGM battery. However, the P1aa5 code is still present and I have no idea why or what to do. Any additional insights are greatly appreciated!

[dj216]

Originally Posted by jklenke1

I know this is an older thread, but I recently replaced my factory auxiliary battery with the same Bosch 35 AGM battery. However, the P1aa5 code is still present and I have no idea why or what to do. Any additional insights are greatly appreciated!

jklenke1, were you able to figure out how to clear the code? Was it as simple as using a battery code reset with a Carly device or was there more to it? I am having the same "P1AA5" error and I'm likely going to replace the auxiliary battery as well but just wanted to see if this cleared everything up for you. Thanks

[jklenke1]

I haven't yet tried anything else to clear the code. I figured replacing the battery would clear the code. The next thing I will try is to get a Carly adapter and code it or maybe take it to an indy shop.

[TrustButVerify]

My AH3 (2013, 63k mi) just threw the same code. Has anyone had success diagnosing?

Ran diagnostic on the battery (running):

DLC K0E0 Voltage: 12.5
DLC Cranking Voltage: 10.2
DLC K0ER Voltage: 13.7

Plugs, coils, and battery are all original.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by TrustButVerify

My AH3 (2013, 63k mi) just threw the same code. Has anyone had success diagnosing?

Ran diagnostic on the battery (running):

DLC K0E0 Voltage: 12.5
DLC Cranking Voltage: 10.2
DLC K0ER Voltage: 13.7

Plugs, coils, and battery are all original.

With a 2013 AH3, your battery is long overdue to be replaced.

[TrustButVerify]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

With a 2013 AH3, your battery is long overdue to be replaced.

Voltage seems normal though?

[chowser51]

Change your battery then measure for comparison. It’s six years old. Time to replace.

[TrustButVerify]

Originally Posted by chowser51

Change your battery then measure for comparison. It's six years old. Time to replace.

So the AH3 has 2 auxiliary batteries, a 92 amp and a 40 amp. The 40 amp has "aged" according to the service center (just had its 7th birthday last week), which is why the code threw. How would I go about registering the new 40amp without altering the registration on the 92amp?