[rlesko]

Originally Posted by YASBBYM3

When you got your link instead of selecting the url, hitting select all and copy, then writing this post and posting link, you had instead clicked on the subsequent F25 links 3 times you would have had your answer in about 10 seconds.

What BMW lists as compatible and what can be fashioned to be compatible are two totally different concepts. Not difficult to grasp, eh?

[YASBBYM3]

Originally Posted by rlesko

What BMW lists as compatible and what can be fashioned to be compatible are two totally different concepts. Not difficult to grasp, eh?

Having done the conversion, sort of obvious I understand it better than you.

While that’s true between F3x vehicles and M3/M4 Steering wheels, Airbags, exterior mirrors and the like, that is not true in numerous other electronic or mechanical modules. If there were not differences, BMW would just use the same part number to reduce SKUs. In fact, they released a news story 3 years ago that they intended to reduce SKUs by 35%.

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by YASBBYM3

Having done the conversion, sort of obvious I understand it better than you.

While that’s true between F3x vehicles and M3/M4 Steering wheels, Airbags, exterior mirrors and the like, that is not true in numerous other electronic or mechanical modules. If there were not differences, BMW would just use the same part number to reduce SKUs. In fact, they released a news story 3 years ago that they intended to reduce SKUs by 35%.

Just a general reminder, there are also SKU’s not listed in the ETK (real-oem, or a more up to date one www.bmw-etk.info ). ETK lists only spareparts not production parts. I, for example have a BDC that is not listed anywhere and is only fitted when the car is from factory.

Also I have used parts that are almost identical but just reinforced like the Mini JCW engine mount has different part number but fits totally fine on less powerful engines. I have also another AAG module in my car than listed on real-oem SKU-wise, but after a flash with e-sys there are no complaints in the software of the car and everything works correct.

Using the ETK to check compatibility is a safe bet but is not mean that all other SKU’s are automatically not compatible.

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by YASBBYM3

Having done the conversion, sort of obvious I understand it better than you.

While that’s true between F3x vehicles and M3/M4 Steering wheels, Airbags, exterior mirrors and the like, that is not true in numerous other electronic or mechanical modules. If there were not differences, BMW would just use the same part number to reduce SKUs. In fact, they released a news story 3 years ago that they intended to reduce SKUs by 35%.

You having done the retrofit is not indicative of expertise...anyone can follow an online guide with relative ease. Had you said something which inspired confidence like "no way it would work, the pinout is way different for both parts" that would have been insightful and much more helpful. You may or may not be an expert, but sitting here, appealing to your own authority without substantiating it is silly, when the number one reason people go to forums is to share and gain knowledge.

Back on topic...while it is true that if they were able to use the exact same part in production, they most likely would (i.e. the ICM module). However, the fact that its not listed doesn't mean it wouldn't work, as we don't know the reason for it not being listed as compatible. As pointed out above this post, realOEM can be used to check compatibility, but that doesn't mean if its not listed then its not compatible.

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by rlesko

You having done the retrofit is not indicative of expertise...anyone can follow an online guide with relative ease. Had you said something which inspired confidence like "no way it would work, the pinout is way different for both parts" that would have been insightful and much more helpful. You may or may not be an expert, but sitting here, appealing to your own authority without substantiating it is silly, when the number one reason people go to forums is to share and gain knowledge.

Back on topic...while it is true that if they were able to use the exact same part in production, they most likely would (i.e. the ICM module). However, the fact that its not listed doesn't mean it wouldn't work, as we don't know the reason for it not being listed as compatible. As pointed out above this post, realOEM can be used to check compatibility, but that doesn't mean if its not listed then its not compatible.

Sometimes they also have different sku’s as it comes from different factories but same specs. I also have retrofitted ECU’s that were not listed as bilateral exchangeable but are I think they sometimes also change the sku if the shipping firmware is different but the hardware is the same inside.

Not to mention that I have a BDC in my car that is not listed anywhere but my car is from the Regensburg factory.

[rlesko]

So it begins... found a nice price on an ACC pump that was too good to pass up. Will take my time gathering the rest of the pieces of the retrofit, as I figure out what to do with the brake lines (I have pre 07/13 build).

Found a post on russian forums where someone went ahead and replaced all brake lines to match new DSC configuration - https://www.drive2.ru/l/631633147347342471/
But it seems like he hired someone for the work so no details are provided on the procedure. I checked ISTA+ and it didn't seem to specify what needed to be done to get access to each brake line...at a minimum it seems like the fuel tank needs to be dropped as well as various under body panels.

Looks like someone else changed out the lines on their F20 https://www.drive2.ru/l/604496100862202204/ but they dropped the entire sub frame, fuel tank, etc.

[rlesko]

So I got an answer on how people retrofit MK100 DSC into cars with build date prior to 07/2013...as mentioned previously in this thread, the electrical connectors are in fact different. However- the same number of pins are used for either pre or post 07/2013 builds. The connector changes from 47 pin to 38 pin.

Apparently it is possible to chop off the wiring harness that goes with MK100 and connect it to the vehicle. I was told that the wire color coding matches but can't confirm that. It would be a bit scary trying cut and reconnect ~25 wires, but that is apparently how its done. In addition to that, this person said new hard brake lines are able to be run by dropping the fuel tank.

[BeastBimmer]

New here, and VERY interested in retrofitting this in my 2016 435i F33. I'm a bit overwhelmed by the information in this thread. So, it sounds like it could take a few days, and at least $1200 to complete this once all the items have been sourced, which sounds like the hardest part. Can someone point me in the direction of the easiest way to find the specific parts I need for my car?
I've gone to bimmer.work to get a list of the options for my VIN to make sure I have some of the underlying hardware needed before I try to source the ACC parts. I can share if that would help someone help me. Thanks in advance.

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by BeastBimmer

New here, and VERY interested in retrofitting this in my 2016 435i F33. I'm a bit overwhelmed by the information in this thread. So, it sounds like it could take a few days, and at least $1200 to complete this once all the items have been sourced, which sounds like the hardest part. Can someone point me in the direction of the easiest way to find the specific parts I need for my car?
I've gone to bimmer.work to get a list of the options for my VIN to make sure I have some of the underlying hardware needed before I try to source the ACC parts. I can share if that would help someone help me. Thanks in advance.

All the information I gathered was from russian website (drive2.ru) with translate.

You'll need-

1. Exterior mounting hardware, which differs whether you have M sport or regular. You can find part numbers on realOEM.
2. Interior trim pieces (steering wheel buttons and driver assistance switch, also able to be referenced on realOEM)
3. ACC DSC for F3x, ICM High, and a radar module (part number appears to be the same for multiple chassis).
4. Wiring harness to connect the radar module to ICM. Part of this is able to be ordered from BMW but not all of it.
5. ABS wheel sensors for all wheels

How much experience do you have working on your car and retrofitting new equipment?

[smrtypants44]

Originally Posted by rlesko

All the information I gathered was from russian website (drive2.ru) with translate.

You'll need-

1. Exterior mounting hardware, which differs whether you have M sport or regular. You can find part numbers on realOEM.
2. Interior trim pieces (steering wheel buttons and driver assistance switch, also able to be referenced on realOEM)
3. ACC DSC for F3x, ICM High, and a radar module (part number appears to be the same for multiple chassis).
4. Wiring harness to connect the radar module to ICM. Part of this is able to be ordered from BMW but not all of it.

How much experience do you have working on your car and retrofitting new equipment?

-you don't need the driver assistance switch- you can do without it just wont be able to switch between acc and standard cruise
- you also need the ACC specific ABS sensors

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by smrtypants44

-you don't need the driver assistance switch- you can do without it just wont be able to switch between acc and standard cruise
- you also need the ACC specific ABS sensors

Are you positive you don’t need the driver assistance switch? And yea, good call on the ABS sensors.

[smrtypants44]

Originally Posted by rlesko

Are you positive you don’t need the driver assistance switch? And yea, good call on the ABS sensors.

Yup I didn’t put it in my car and everything works perfectly.

[BeastBimmer]

Originally Posted by rlesko

All the information I gathered was from russian website (drive2.ru) with translate.

You'll need-

1. Exterior mounting hardware, which differs whether you have M sport or regular. You can find part numbers on realOEM.
2. Interior trim pieces (steering wheel buttons and driver assistance switch, also able to be referenced on realOEM)
3. ACC DSC for F3x, ICM High, and a radar module (part number appears to be the same for multiple chassis).
4. Wiring harness to connect the radar module to ICM. Part of this is able to be ordered from BMW but not all of it.
5. ABS wheel sensors for all wheels

How much experience do you have working on your car and retrofitting new equipment?

Thank you so much!
I've only had the car for a 6 weeks or so. I gave my son my '19 Hyundai ioniq electric and it had the ACC, so I'm missing it. He'll never use it.
I can't say that I have enough experience to do this all myself unless I take my time and make multiple trips to the autoparts store and harbor freight.
I've only done cosmetic changes (replaced brake lights with GTS style with smoked lens, swapped out door handles, replaced side mirrors, removed door panels, interior trim, etc.), thus far. I have Carly, and have dabbled with that, but that's not going to help me here.
I'll see what I can find with what you've provided me. I appreciate the help. I'm sure I'll be back, hopefully not with a bricked car.

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by BeastBimmer

Thank you so much!
I've only had the car for a 6 weeks or so. I gave my son my '19 Hyundai ioniq electric and it had the ACC, so I'm missing it. He'll never use it.
I can't say that I have enough experience to do this all myself unless I take my time and make multiple trips to the autoparts store and harbor freight.
I've only done cosmetic changes (replaced brake lights with GTS style with smoked lens, swapped out door handles, replaced side mirrors, removed door panels, interior trim, etc.), thus far. I have Carly, and have dabbled with that, but that's not going to help me here.
I'll see what I can find with what you've provided me. I appreciate the help. I'm sure I'll be back, hopefully not with a bricked car.

I'd recommend first getting a copy of E-SYS on a laptop and getting comfortable with some operations there. The physical installation isn't the hard part per se, but getting the wiring and coding correct. And yea, a tool like Carly or bimmercode wouldn't be sufficient here.

[YASBBYM3]

Originally Posted by BeastBimmer

Thank you so much!
I've only had the car for a 6 weeks or so. I gave my son my '19 Hyundai ioniq electric and it had the ACC, so I'm missing it. He'll never use it.
I can't say that I have enough experience to do this all myself unless I take my time and make multiple trips to the autoparts store and harbor freight.
I've only done cosmetic changes (replaced brake lights with GTS style with smoked lens, swapped out door handles, replaced side mirrors, removed door panels, interior trim, etc.), thus far. I have Carly, and have dabbled with that, but that's not going to help me here.
I'll see what I can find with what you've provided me. I appreciate the help. I'm sure I'll be back, hopefully not with a bricked car.

This far more complicated than taillight wiring. A new wiring harness is needed in the front bumper for the Radar unit and wiring is needed to be added from the engine compartment to the ICM under your armrest. The ABS sensors are pretty easy if you have a lift. More complicated if you don’t.

As you have a 2016, you will not need to change out the DSC MK100 plug, however, you really need to drain the brake fluid, add new fluid and purge the brake lines once you expose the brake fluid to air changing out the DSC.

Getting the steering wheel airbag can be complicated for a first (or even second timer)

And then there is the coding for all this. And trying to adjust the sensor. This is not easy for even those who have started this thread or created the now deleted video. You most likely need a pro-coder to assists you with this providing you can overcome the other challenges yourself.

Edit: Forgot to mention there are different versions of the ICM and DSC depending on what options you have on your car. Triple check you are buying the appropriate one for your vehicle.

[CaptainFlasheart]

Hi All,

I'm interested in this retrofit and have a fairly unique situation. I'm in the UK and have a F30 330d (build date 03/2104) with ACC and DCC and a F32 435d (build date 11/2013) with neither. Both have build dates after 07/13 so have the MK100 ACC pump. My plan is to swap the ACC from the F30 to the F32. The F30 will need to still be functional at the end of this.

Looking at the parts I'll need I think I'm largely covered by the 'donor' car as I'll be able to use the radar sensor, bumper wiring loom, MK100 ACC, steering wheel buttons but I'll need to source a 'high' ICM as the F30 has DCC so I'll need the high ICM in both cars. I'm ok to purchase some of the correct abs sensors and I think wiring wise all I'll need will be a loom from the bumper loom connector to the ICM. The thought of that doesn't fill me with too much fear - If I'm no longer having ACC on the F30, I could at least partially use the existing loom from the main loom to the bumper ACC connector to save needing to build a completely new one.

So a few questions...

1. Will I be able to use my non ABS pump in the donor car once finished? If not this will probably be a red flag as I'll need to source another ACC ABS pump which is prohibitively expensive/rare.
2. Will there be any problems with parts going from F30 to F32?
3. Anything I've missed?

This will be a summer project for me, and there are a number of other extras on the F30 I'd like to swap too at some point including reversing camera and tyre pressure display, Both of which I assume will be considerably easier.

Thanks!

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by CaptainFlasheart

Hi All,

I'm interested in this retrofit and have a fairly unique situation. I'm in the UK and have a F30 330d (build date 03/2104) with ACC and DCC and a F32 435d (build date 11/2013) with neither. Both have build dates after 07/13 so have the MK100 ACC pump. My plan is to swap the ACC from the F30 to the F32. The F30 will need to still be functional at the end of this.

Looking at the parts I'll need I think I'm largely covered by the 'donor' car as I'll be able to use the radar sensor, bumper wiring loom, MK100 ACC, steering wheel buttons but I'll need to source a 'high' ICM as the F30 has DCC so I'll need the high ICM in both cars. I'm ok to purchase some of the correct abs sensors and I think wiring wise all I'll need will be a loom from the bumper loom connector to the ICM. The thought of that doesn't fill me with too much fear - If I'm no longer having ACC on the F30, I could at least partially use the existing loom from the main loom to the bumper ACC connector to save needing to build a completely new one.

So a few questions...

1. Will I be able to use my non ABS pump in the donor car once finished? If not this will probably be a red flag as I'll need to source another ACC ABS pump which is prohibitively expensive/rare.
2. Will there be any problems with parts going from F30 to F32?
3. Anything I've missed?

This will be a summer project for me, and there are a number of other extras on the F30 I'd like to swap too at some point including reversing camera and tyre pressure display, Both of which I assume will be considerably easier.

Thanks!

I am 99% sure You could put a non-ACC pump on the ACC car, but you'd have to remove ACC from the VO and code relevant modules. I have done the reverse operation thus far- I have an ACC pump at the moment in a non-ACC car, and its coded just for regular cruise control.

Its my guess that the wiring harness aspect may be more difficult than you anticipate. I am not 100% sure how these come wired from factory, but I would wager the wiring is done in two pieces. The first segment of the harness from the radar to the main car wiring harness that would be easy to disconnect / take, but the other half which goes to the ICM is probably indivisible from the main car's wiring harness. The harness is only 4 wires, so you should probably anticipate on making that yourself.

As I'm thinking about this now, I wonder- do the RHD cars have different pumps than LHD?

[Jimmert]

Originally Posted by smrtypants44

-you don't need the driver assistance switch- you can do without it just wont be able to switch between acc and standard cruise
- you also need the ACC specific ABS sensors

True that you don’t need the DA switch, but it is not used to switch between cruise-control and ACC. I believe it is used to disable the collision warning. Switching between cruise-control and ACC, can be done by holding the distance button (up or down) for a few seconds.