08-19-2019, 01:42 AM | #1 |
B48 UK Guinea Pig
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Hey all,
Fitted my coilovers this weekend and just wanted to give everyone a reminder to tighten your droplinks! Obvious i know but for a day and a half ive been chasing a clang/knock coming from the nearside which was really audible. Read many threads from people asking questions but not stating if and how they fixed it which was frustrating so thought I'd at least provide a potential remedy! So I checked and torqued up the tophat bolts, strut bolts the works on the coilovers... Nothing got rid of the knock. Last option was to start again and pull the strut where I then removed the droplink nut. As i moved the droplink out of the way it made the 2same noise... I moved it again and thought... 'Surely not', but the noise was coming from the other side. Looked like the ARB was knocking. Whipped it all back together, pulled the far side wheel off and everything felt tight no movement at all?? I put an axle stand under the strut andc dropped the car to provide some load and there was the tighniest sogn of movement so literally tightened the droplink bolt half a turn on the strut and voila... Its gone!! No more clangs bangs or knocks! So lessons to be learnt, make sure even the smallest of nuts is tightened fully because even a half turn on a nut will cause the biggest knocks! |
08-19-2019, 04:01 AM | #2 |
Second Lieutenant
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Great write up! Was the knock over all bumps or was it over certain ones (bigger and perhaps only on one side when one it would cause the anti-roll bar to be put on tension)?
I'm asking as I just had my B8s and Eibachs installed and am getting a random "knock" like I have 80 psi in my driver's front tire. It drives fine otherwise. The noise seems to occur mostly if I go over rough roads or if my driver's side rooms over a bump/dip causing that one wheel to travel where as the passenger wheel stays relatively level. It doesn't occur with every bump though. Odd. I checked the strut mount and the center strut bolt and both seems OK and tight. Did you torque it down to a certain spec also? |
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08-20-2019, 12:55 AM | #3 | |
B48 UK Guinea Pig
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Quote:
It threw me as the sound was all over the place but i was adament it was front left, the noise was just transmitting though and it was the opposite side. No torque settings i found... I just put a 14mm spark plug socket on the top nut of the droplink (its a perfect fit) , fed a t30 torx through to hold the link so it didnt spin and then tightened it as much as possible with a ratchet spanner. |
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09-11-2019, 07:47 AM | #4 |
Lieutenant Colonel
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What size is the pass-through socket needed to remove the drop link nut to the strut?
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2014 F30 335i, M-Sport, 6MT, V804s, custom exhaust, CTS Turbo Intake & IC, FTP CP, VRSF DP, TMS Strut Brace, BM3 Stg 2, AEM WMI, H&R Sport Springs (381 whp, 429 wtq on Cali 91oct before WMI). SPI Films Blog/DIY Vids |
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09-18-2019, 12:56 AM | #5 |
B48 UK Guinea Pig
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Rep 31
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As above "... I just put a 14mm spark plug socket on the top nut of the droplink (its a perfect fit) , fed a t30 torx through to hold the link so it didnt spin and then tightened it as much as possible with a ratchet spanner."
Hope this helps. |
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