[dr.roro]

Do you guys use any dielectric grease when installing spark plugs?

Seems like anti-seize is generally no longer recommended, but couldn't find as much information regarding dielectric grease.

[JaredG_F30]

I do not and neither does the dealer

Originally Posted by dr.roro

Do you guys use any dielectric grease when installing spark plugs?

Seems like anti-seize is generally no longer recommended, but couldn't find as much information regarding dielectric grease.

[bmw4jh]

I bought the ebay spark plugs and received them today. The boxes say made in Germany and also the actual plug says Germany. It took about three weeks to get them. I feel confident that they are safe to install. We will see.

[jv004]

Here's my personal experience with NGK97506 & NGK95770 on a F32

I ran NGK97506s for about 4 months, F32 hated me for it . It was just not right, gapped at .022 and idle felt kinda rough but ran fine through the gears and no misfires. Increased gap and it fixed idle but on WOT felt small hesitations, again no misfires or codes.
Decided to ditch them and try NGK95770s, @ gap .022 and idle immediately felt smooth, going though gears and wots felt fine also, one week with them and no issues so far.

I'll probably save the 97506s since they still look fine, and try them again with PS2 if I go that route. But my car as it is now, did not like them.

[doodlebro]

My mechanic recently installed a PS2 on my N55, I had 97506's on hand and he installed them with a gap of .018, mostly for altitude. Haven't tuned yet, but feels smooth all over.

[Rebound]

Originally Posted by johnung

Thanks for the reply. I'm happy to hear that you have run the NGK95706 successfully. I was hoping for replies from folks who have real world experience with various plugs in the N55 as all of my statements are second hand and not from experience. You mentioned that 0.022" is the gap to use with them and it sounds like you have had the ability to log any timing issues. Has your experience with the NGK's all been positive? Curious what's moving you back to try the stock Bosch plugs? In general the folks whom I have spoken with who use Bosch do so because they never really considered or checked out anything else. I'm very curious what you discover by evaluating both Bosch stock and NGK 1-step colder.

FYI- Saw in your profile that you intend to upgrade to M Performance Brakes. Not sure if you mean Brembo 4-piston front/2-piston rear, OR Brembo 6-piston front/4-piston rear? I just upgraded my rear to Brembo 2-piston to go with the stock Brembo 4-piston fronts. Painted front & rear calipers to match. Hawk 5.0 pads and stainless steel lines all around. Great result! Instead of nose diving, whole car squats flat when braking.
Hawk 5.0 much better than stock and less dust. Dust not as sticky on wheels. Stainless lines makes brakes much more responsive. No play in pedal before they engage. Have a lot of detailed information about that brake project that I should post.

Was just in NC with my son and my car last month looking at colleges. Would like to check out your car next time we are there.

When you upgraded from the single to the dual-pistons, what part number did you use? Did you need a different rotor, and did you need to code after changing the caliper?

[CommoN81]

Thanks for the info. Very helpful, just a couple of questions.

I have BMS Stage 1 tune. BMS offers Plug change kit with NGK 5992 1-Step Colder Spark Plug. Based on the above, those are same temp as OEM. Being that I am only running stage 1 with no intention of going further, would these be fine, gapped to .020? Should I leave at the stock .03 gap?

Also, do the coil packs need to be changed at the same time as the plugs?

Thanks

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Rebound

When you upgraded from the single to the dual-pistons, what part number did you use? Did you need a different rotor, and did you need to code after changing the caliper?

Originally Posted by Rebound

When you upgraded from the single to the dual-pistons, what part number did you use? Did you need a different rotor, and did you need to code after changing the caliper?

Hi,
I don't recall seeing your post a month ago. It's weird that a notification just popped up to tell me about it today.
To answer your questions:
1) I didn't order the rear 2-piston Brembo brake calipers by part number. (They are blue.) Bought them used from a guy on the forum. However I did do a lot of research because I was afraid to get stuck with the wrong part. I found out from Brembo themselves that casting numbers on the calipers are meaningless in that they are NOT BMW part numbers. I know that BMW sells M Sport brake packages on many cars so just because I found a set painted blue didn't necessarily mean that they would fit my 2015 335i.

2) They answer to my dilemma turned out to be the used rotors that matched and were being sold with the used blue calipers. The calipers that I was looking for for my car use larger rotors- 345mm x 24mm (1-piston stock rear calipers use smaller rotors- 330x20)
So as soon as I verified the rotor size I knew the caliper was correct.
Stock rotors wear great. The used rotors had 15k miles on them and measured less than 5% wear of the available wear material. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive measuring caliper that works great for this. If u need rotors go with zinc coated Zimmerman's. They are a good German OEM manufacturer and the coated rotor hats won't rust like BMW rotors.
3) I just don't recall on the coding. I don't think new coding was necessary but just don't remember. Larger such as 6-piston front/ 4-piston rear would need coding.
Hope this helps!

[johnung]

Originally Posted by CommoN81

Thanks for the info. Very helpful, just a couple of questions.

I have BMS Stage 1 tune. BMS offers Plug change kit with NGK 5992 1-Step Colder Spark Plug. Based on the above, those are same temp as OEM. Being that I am only running stage 1 with no intention of going further, would these be fine, gapped to .020? Should I leave at the stock .03 gap?

Also, do the coil packs need to be changed at the same time as the plugs?

Thanks

Originally Posted by Rebound

When you upgraded from the single to the dual-pistons, what part number did you use? Did you need a different rotor, and did you need to code after changing the caliper?

Originally Posted by CommoN81

Thanks for the info. Very helpful, just a couple of questions.

I have BMS Stage 1 tune. BMS offers Plug change kit with NGK 5992 1-Step Colder Spark Plug. Based on the above, those are same temp as OEM. Being that I am only running stage 1 with no intention of going further, would these be fine, gapped to .020? Should I leave at the stock .03 gap?

Also, do the coil packs need to be changed at the same time as the plugs?

Thanks

Sorry, your question just popped up in my notifications today.
I'm no expert but I haven't seen anyone recommend changing coil packs EVERY time plugs are changed. With a bunch of performance mods going on my car now, I'm planning to change to NGKs with 0.020" gap right away. And investigate changing coils with my next plug change in 15-20k miles or so
Hope this helps!

[johnung]

I have a guess as to where this occasional comment originates concerning replacing the coils at the same time that the spark plugs are changed. I believe the stock Bosch plugs on a normal N55 are supposed to be changed every 60k miles. I've also heard to change the stock coils about every 60k miles. On a tuned car, such as BootMod3 Stage1, I've heard to cut that spark plug recommendation in half and change the Bosch spark plugs at 30k miles.

However, on more aggressive tunes, such as BootMod3 Stage2, BM3 recommends a switch from the Bosch plugs to the colder Laser Iridium NGK 97506 (SILZKBR8D8S), and to gap them down to 0.022". The gap on the Laser Iridium plugs can be changed easily, but you need a special smaller gapping tool typically used for motorcycles, etc. Snap-On has one for about $12 shipped. The Bosch plugs are more fragile and often break when attempting to re-gap them. The NGK's are recommended to be changed every 15k-20k miles. So the rule of thumb that I've heard is to change coils every other time that you change the NGK spark plugs which would be every 30k-40k miles, instead of every 60k with an untuned car on stock Bosch plugs.
Hope this helps!

[dr.roro]

Originally Posted by johnung

Snap-On has one for about $12 shipped.

Do you have a link for the Snap-On gap tool?

[johnung]

Originally Posted by dr.roro

Do you have a link for the Snap-On gap tool?

The Snap-On part number is FB302A

[pw0n]

Wanted to add to this endless debate/confusion. Hopefully it adds more data points to people looking for help.

I just changed out my spark plugs today @ 58k mi. I believe this was the first time they were done. Pulled them out and they were 0.031-0.032mm. I've been running BM3 Stage 2 for the past 5k or so miles.

I upgraded to NGK 97506 gapped to 0.026mm. I wanted to try out 0.026mm and gap down as necessary. Car runs fine so far and burbles sound much more pronounced (running catless + stock OEM exhaust), so I'm sticking to this for now. I think 0.024 mm or even 0.022 mm will be fine. Next time around, I'll probably play around w/ 0.024 mm.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by pw0n

Wanted to add to this endless debate/confusion. Hopefully it adds more data points to people looking for help.

I just changed out my spark plugs today @ 58k mi. I believe this was the first time they were done. Pulled them out and they were 0.031-0.032mm. I've been running BM3 Stage 2 for the past 5k or so miles.

I upgraded to NGK 97506 gapped to 0.026mm. I wanted to try out 0.026mm and gap down as necessary. Car runs fine so far and burbles sound much more pronounced (running catless + stock OEM exhaust), so I'm sticking to this for now. I think 0.024 mm or even 0.022 mm will be fine. Next time around, I'll probably play around w/ 0.024 mm.

I am assuming you mean inches and not mm?

Did you have any indication of a misfire running stage 2 with those stock ones? And/or notice any improvement once changing them? I imagine the gap had increased a bit from wear. I am at 42k miles, original plugs, and was considering doing them at 45k with my next service. I am about to order a DP and was going to go to MHD 2+ but was concerned about doing so on 45k mi plugs. I am stage 1 with stock DP right now, no issues.

[pw0n]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

I am assuming you mean inches and not mm?

Did you have any indication of a misfire running stage 2 with those stock ones? And/or notice any improvement once changing them? I imagine the gap had increased a bit from wear. I am at 42k miles, original plugs, and was considering doing them at 45k with my next service. I am about to order a DP and was going to go to MHD 2+ but was concerned about doing so on 45k mi plugs. I am stage 1 with stock DP right now, no issues.

Yeah, sorry, inches. Nope, no indications of misfiring, but I wanted to make sure I stayed ahead of that. The stock ones were at 0.031-0.031" while the NGK came pre-gapped at around 0.030-0.031". I think you'll be fine w/ stock at 45k for now.

[delorean175]

Originally Posted by johnung

NGK97506 SILZKBR8D8S Laser Iridium Plug. Gapped to 0.031" out of the box. This plug is rated by NGK to be one-step colder than the NGK 95770. (Note the number 8 in the middle of the NGK part number.) In NGK lingo the higher numbers are colder plugs. So this #8 plug is colder than the #7 plugs. This plug is listed as standard for the BMW N20 and S55 engines. NGK tables also list this plug as the stock plug for the N55 engine. But that appears to be wrong. This #8 plug should be considered to be one-step colder than the stock BMW spark plug. (Burger actually lists this plug as 2-steps colder for the N54 engine, which would confirm that it is 1-step colder for the N55 engine.) For performance enhanced engines this plug should be gapped down to 0.020".

I recently changed my plugs (Bosch ZR5TPP33) along with the coils, I got multiple misfires. After some diagnosis and playing musical chairs with the plugs and coils. I found out 2 of the 6 plugs were duds. I decided to go with NGK plugs and ditch the Bosch's. According to what is posted in this thread, the NGK97506 plugs are 1 step colder. How do you guys think they would do on a stock engine? If so, would I leave them gapped at .031? I can't seem to get the NGK95770 plugs in this state to save my life. None of the local autoparts stores have them nor are they available for special order. Kinda Weird. A local Euro Indy shop says he can order me a set of the 97506's. He says they will be fine. I don't know this guy or his competence level. He says he's put these in stock cars before because it's what NGK has listed as a stock plug. I'm learning how sensitive these engines are to misfires. I don't want to piss it off with the wrong plugs. lol

[johnung]

Originally Posted by delorean175

I recently changed my plugs (Bosch ZR5TPP33) along with the coils, I got multiple misfires. After some diagnosis and playing musical chairs with the plugs and coils. I found out 2 of the 6 plugs were duds. I decided to go with NGK plugs and ditch the Bosch's. According to what is posted in this thread, the NGK97506 plugs are 1 step colder. How do you guys think they would do on a stock engine? If so, would I leave them gapped at .031? I can't seem to get the NGK95770 plugs in this state to save my life. None of the local autoparts stores have them nor are they available for special order. Kinda Weird. A local Euro Indy shop says he can order me a set of the 97506's. He says they will be fine. I don't know this guy or his competence level. He says he's put these in stock cars before because it's what NGK has listed as a stock plug. I'm learning how sensitive these engines are to misfires. I don't want to piss it off with the wrong plugs. lol

Not sure what engine you have but the NGK 97506 ran fine when they were installed in my N55 before I flashed it to BootMod3 Stage2.

Lately I've read that there are fake NGK's being sold on the market. Mine came from Burger. I'd trust that they are selling the real deal.

[Orion4]

Originally Posted by delorean175

I recently changed my plugs (Bosch ZR5TPP33) along with the coils, I got multiple misfires. After some diagnosis and playing musical chairs with the plugs and coils. I found out 2 of the 6 plugs were duds. I decided to go with NGK plugs and ditch the Bosch's. According to what is posted in this thread, the NGK97506 plugs are 1 step colder. How do you guys think they would do on a stock engine? If so, would I leave them gapped at .031? I can't seem to get the NGK95770 plugs in this state to save my life. None of the local autoparts stores have them nor are they available for special order. Kinda Weird. A local Euro Indy shop says he can order me a set of the 97506's. He says they will be fine. I don't know this guy or his competence level. He says he's put these in stock cars before because it's what NGK has listed as a stock plug. I'm learning how sensitive these engines are to misfires. I don't want to piss it off with the wrong plugs. lol

Where/what vendor did you get the bad plugs from? Did they accept the returns and reimburse you? I typically get my parts/fluids from FCPEUR and have not experienced any issues.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by 2wheelsrbetter

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6pcs-Bosch-Spark-Plug-ZR5TPP33S-for-BMW-335i-435i-535i-640i-X3-F25-12120037582-/302479474323?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10


any thoughts on these? I typically shy away from too good to be true scenarios, and shipping from China/HK/Taiwan doesn't make me feel any better. 1/2 price is tempting, anyone gone in on something like this?

I wouldn't. Bosch no longer makes the (S) plugs btw. I'd look elsewhere or buy non(S).

[johnung]

Originally Posted by delorean175

Mines an n55, I've heard of fake spark plugs before. Pretty nuts what lengths people will go to make clones.

Yeah, I wouldn't buy any spark plugs off eBay with all of the bad clone reports. NGK 97506 were out of stock internationally while NGK did some sort of factory change. Think it caused clone makers to jump in to make a quick buck

[delorean175]

Originally Posted by johnung

Not sure what engine you have but the NGK 97506 ran fine when they were installed in my N55 before I flashed it to BootMod3 Stage2.

Lately I've read that there are fake NGK's being sold on the market. Mine came from Burger. I'd trust that they are selling the real deal.

I'm glad to hear they worked for you. My engine is an n55. I've heard of fake spark plugs before. Pretty nuts what lengths people will go to make clones.

Originally Posted by Orion4

Where/what vendor did you get the bad plugs from? Did they accept the returns and reimburse you? I typically get my parts/fluids from FCPEUR and have not experienced any issues.

I bought them from Amazon. The vendor is WesNew Auto Parts. They had good ratings and a great price. It was too good to be true. But you gotta love Amazons return policy. haha The old plugs are going back tomorrow.

I've been on FCPEUR before, initially $20 per plug seemed steep but that's what I ended up paying when ordering from my local Indy shop.

I spoke with the Indy mechanic some more regarding the plugs, he reassured me they will run perfectly fine. He told me he has the exact same car and runs those plugs. Then he took me around to a side garage and showed me his collection of cars. It could be an elaborate sales tactic, own 1 of every common body style since the 80's so he can say he knows what hes doing. haha It worked, the plugs come in tomorrow. I paid $130 after tax.

I appreciate your input guys!

[delorean175]

I put the plugs in, I'm impressed so far. It drives way better. The old plugs looked really old. I have no idea when the PO had them replaced last. I'll be sticking with these from now on.