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      06-14-2021, 09:33 AM   #1
kdog_x
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Well, my F30 has developed a sound akin to a 30 year old mattress frame. I have ruled out the shocks and can't seem to replicate the sound from the ctrl arms. So I'm thinking it's most likely the rear ball joint.

I have the ball joints ordered and on the way, but my question is has anyone replace these with a store bought ball joint press? I have a HarborFreight nearby and it looks like they have a 4wd press kit. I see the official BMW tool is available on eBay, but it is $250.
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      06-14-2021, 10:37 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
Well, my F30 has developed a sound akin to a 30 year old mattress frame. I have ruled out the shocks and can't seem to replicate the sound from the ctrl arms. So I'm thinking it's most likely the rear ball joint.

I have the ball joints ordered and on the way, but my question is has anyone replace these with a store bought ball joint press? I have a HarborFreight nearby and it looks like they have a 4wd press kit. I see the official BMW tool is available on eBay, but it is $250.
When you say rear ball joint, what exact part you are talking about?
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      06-14-2021, 11:51 AM   #3
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Bmw calls it a ball joint. It's more like a bushing. Its on the lower part of the hub. See attached pic.
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      06-14-2021, 12:34 PM   #4
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Mine also creak. I just bought a bushing press from amazon that I am using today to remove the other bushing in the hub that goes to the trailing arm. If it goes well, I'm going to do my ball joints as well.
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      06-14-2021, 05:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eschmacher View Post
Mine also creak. I just bought a bushing press from amazon that I am using today to remove the other bushing in the hub that goes to the trailing arm. If it goes well, I'm going to do my ball joints as well.
Cool, if that works out let me know which tool you bought. I don't mind spending a few bucks but $250 is pretty steep for a tool I'll likely use once
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      06-14-2021, 09:41 PM   #6
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So, it worked, but it was a colossal pain in the ass. The kit I bought was $43 on amazon, "Heavy Duty Ball Joint Press & U Joint Removal Tool Kit".

It didn't come with a collar small enough to press the bushing all the way through the knuckle, I ended up using a 24mm socket and that was perfectly sized.

I'd recommend a kit with more pieces that are smaller, will help a lot.
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      06-15-2021, 09:32 AM   #7
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Cool, I think I found the one you were talking about on Amazon. It looks like they don't list sizes for most of these kits. But it does look like they all have similarly sized components unless you buy a really expensive kit. I see that advance auto has a 23 piece kit available for rent. I think I may go that route, and just use a socket like you did if the appropriate size is not in there.

Did replacing the parts take care of your squeaking sound?
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      06-15-2021, 09:53 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
Cool, I think I found the one you were talking about on Amazon. It looks like they don't list sizes for most of these kits. But it does look like they all have similarly sized components unless you buy a really expensive kit. I see that advance auto has a 23 piece kit available for rent. I think I may go that route, and just use a socket like you did if the appropriate size is not in there.

Did replacing the parts take care of your squeaking sound?
Renting a nicer kit it probably the better way to go.
I haven't done the ball joint yet, I did the trailing arm bushing that's in the knuckle.
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      06-15-2021, 03:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eschmacher View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
Cool, I think I found the one you were talking about on Amazon. It looks like they don't list sizes for most of these kits. But it does look like they all have similarly sized components unless you buy a really expensive kit. I see that advance auto has a 23 piece kit available for rent. I think I may go that route, and just use a socket like you did if the appropriate size is not in there.

Did replacing the parts take care of your squeaking sound?
Renting a nicer kit it probably the better way to go.
I haven't done the ball joint yet, I did the trailing arm bushing that's in the knuckle.
Ah ok, guess I'll be testing the waters on the ball joint then. I know in the YouTube video the guy mentions there being a flat spot on part of the bmw tool due to the way the hub is shaped. Not sure if it's doable or not with a store rented tool, going to try. May need to get a socket or a piece of pipe and grind a flat in it I guess. Unfortunately won't really know until it's apart. That's why I figured I'd ask on here, see if anyone has ventured out without the special tool lol
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      06-17-2021, 04:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
Ah ok, guess I'll be testing the waters on the ball joint then. I know in the YouTube video the guy mentions there being a flat spot on part of the bmw tool due to the way the hub is shaped. Not sure if it's doable or not with a store rented tool, going to try. May need to get a socket or a piece of pipe and grind a flat in it I guess. Unfortunately won't really know until it's apart. That's why I figured I'd ask on here, see if anyone has ventured out without the special tool lol
DO NOT try to do the rear ball joint with the cheap kit I mentioned. I'm currently in my driveway trying and nothing I have is the right size to push on the inner ring of the ball joint to press it out. In fact, I've damaged it in the process, and now I'm going to have to get a shop to do it tomorrow.
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      06-17-2021, 04:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eschmacher View Post
DO NOT try to do the rear ball joint with the cheap kit I mentioned. I'm currently in my driveway trying and nothing I have is the right size to push on the inner ring of the ball joint to press it out. In fact, I've damaged it in the process, and now I'm going to have to get a shop to do it tomorrow.
Ouch, sorry to hear that. I just got done doing my rounds at Oreilly's and Advance Auto Parts a few minutes ago. I can confirm that the large ball joint press kit that they have at Advance does not have anything that fits the weird size of this ball joint. I'm looking into fabricating something from some thick walled pipe. It's definitely not a common size that can be found at the hardware store though.
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      06-17-2021, 07:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
Ouch, sorry to hear that. I just got done doing my rounds at Oreilly's and Advance Auto Parts a few minutes ago. I can confirm that the large ball joint press kit that they have at Advance does not have anything that fits the weird size of this ball joint. I'm looking into fabricating something from some thick walled pipe. It's definitely not a common size that can be found at the hardware store though.
A piece of pipe to sit on the outer ring where the bushing and knuckle meet would be your best bet. Outside of the bmw tool of course.
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      06-17-2021, 09:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eschmacher View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
Ouch, sorry to hear that. I just got done doing my rounds at Oreilly's and Advance Auto Parts a few minutes ago. I can confirm that the large ball joint press kit that they have at Advance does not have anything that fits the weird size of this ball joint. I'm looking into fabricating something from some thick walled pipe. It's definitely not a common size that can be found at the hardware store though.
A piece of pipe to sit on the outer ring where the bushing and knuckle meet would be your best bet. Outside of the bmw tool of course.
Yeah, thinking a 2" ID pipe to receive it and a appropriate sized piece to ram it out, then use washers and a long hardened bolt/nut.

Tricky part the bmw bushing is 1.860" diameter. If I use 1-3/4" OD pipe the wall thickness is lighter to fit over the internal part of the bushing… so it may not hold up to pressing. It's .063", so it could possibly hold up, hard to say without trying it, its really not something they put in the spec sheet. If I use 1-1/2" black gas pipe as a ram its 1.900" diameter. Nice and thick and heavy wall, definitely won't crunch, but I'd need to shave off .004". Would be easy if I had a lathe. Could Maybe try chucking it in a drill and shaving it down. Not sure what I'll try yet, but luckily the car isn't down so I can pontificate :

Nothing on these cars is ever easy!
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      06-18-2021, 09:47 AM   #14
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I managed to get mine out! Turns out I'm and idiot and was pressing on the lip of the ball joint itself instead of on the knuckle... once I used a bigger cup to brace against the knuckle it broke free and it was out in less than a minute.

Now to get the new one back in... I put the new one in the freezer and hopefully that makes it a bit easier to press in.

Oh by the way, the dealer wanted $1100 for the ball joint service. I said give me my car back lol.
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      06-18-2021, 01:11 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eschmacher View Post
I managed to get mine out! Turns out I'm and idiot and was pressing on the lip of the ball joint itself instead of on the knuckle... once I used a bigger cup to brace against the knuckle it broke free and it was out in less than a minute.

Now to get the new one back in... I put the new one in the freezer and hopefully that makes it a bit easier to press in.

Oh by the way, the dealer wanted $1100 for the ball joint service. I said give me my car back lol.
Way to go man! Perseverance is key sometimes. Not to mention the bullshit fees dealers charge for some of these services is highly motivating. It's gotta feel good doing it yourself for so much less. I love my 335 but one of the most annoying things about these cars is how many repair procedures are seemingly designed to discourage diy for no good reason except to allow the dealer to rake in cash for the repairs. All these BS specialized tools that cost zillions of dollars but can be mimicked with some ingenuity. Sorry, rant over, but chalk up another win for the little guys.
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      06-18-2021, 03:43 PM   #16
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Oh, you just needed a bigger receiving cup? Lol, glad you got it figured out!
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      06-18-2021, 06:14 PM   #17
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Well, it's done.

View post on imgur.com


Leaving the other side alone until I get the proper tools.

The smaller cup I used to push it in was ever so slightly wider than it needed to be, and so it wanted to slip off the beveled edge of the ball joint. Also, once I got it in, it wanted to go in at an angle. I kind of said yolo and kept pushing it in, eventually it actually popped back into a neutral position and became easy to push in until the last 1/2cm or so. That last 5mm was a COLOSSAL pain in the ass.
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      06-18-2021, 06:20 PM   #18
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Oh, I know what you mean with the edge of the bushing being beveled. So if the installer cup had a thicker wall so it didn't sit on the bevel it would of worked correct? I have a friend bringing over some pipe tomorrow that I'm going to see if I can make work.
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      06-18-2021, 06:26 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
Looks good. So there was an installer tool in your set that worked? Or did you have to use a socket?
So, to remove the ball joint, I took off the dust boot since it was going in the trash, and used a 1 1/4" piece of pipe I sized up at lowes. That made it pop right out.

To get it in, I used the smallest cup that came with my amazon tool. It was maybe .1" too wide in diameter to properly sit on the edge of the ball joint. That made it a huge pain. If I had a cup that could sit perfectly on the edge it would have been a breeze, I think.

Also, I'm thinking choice in ball joint may play a part here. Maybe some manufacturers don't bevel the edge of the ball joint as much? I ended up rounding off the edge with that cup :/
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      06-18-2021, 06:33 PM   #20
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Ah, ok. I'm sure a little bit of extra diameter is good so you don't have to get it lined up perfectly, but Yeah 1" too wide would be tricky.
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      06-18-2021, 06:39 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
Ah, ok. I'm sure a little bit of extra diameter is good so you don't have to get it lined up perfectly, but Yeah 1" too wide would be tricky.
Like you said, the ball joint's an awkward size, and that like 1/10th or 1/8th of an inch makes a big difference.
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      09-10-2021, 05:11 AM   #22
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I was taking another look at the tools used since I may attempt this in the winter or early spring.

So for some background, to convert a BMW tool number into a part you can order, you just prefix it with "8330". Based on the BMW procedure, the following tools are needed:

0496552 Spindle --> 83300496552 ($95)
333010
Minimum set: Mechanical tools
AM

2240471 Holding sleeve --> 83302240471 ($23)
Minimum set: Mechanical tools
Mechanical tool

2240466 Washer --> 83302240466 ($12)
Minimum set: Mechanical tools
Mechanical tool

2240472 Washer --> 83302240472 ($21)
Minimum set: Mechanical tools
Mechanical tool

The most expensive part is the spindle part. Pricing is from getbmwparts.com.

Last edited by Polo08816; 09-10-2021 at 06:15 AM..
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