[kern417]

Originally Posted by vinzcast21

Just tried to start the car, stuck on the cranking for almost 4-5 seconds. turned it off. and back on again it starts like normal

any info of what might happened? car is stock just with flash tune of bm3. I had the GTS startup, could that be the problem?

could be the fuel pump isn't priming. do you hear the solenoids and stuff turn on when you open the car door?

[petripaa]

Originally Posted by kern417

For OTS maps it makes no difference. My opinion. But it's a universal option that's also in place for custom tunes that can take advantage of it.

On my experience scaling the torque values for TCU tends to make gearbox shift behaviour wonky. Shifting too early on D mode, not revving out enough on sport / sport+. This experience however isn't from BM3 tune... It would be preferrable to have option to report real torque values to TCU when combining BM3 with XHP (or some other transmission tune).

[vinzcast21]

Originally Posted by kern417

could be the fuel pump isn't priming. do you hear the solenoids and stuff turn on when you open the car door?

Yeah the car was running on and i turned it off for groceries like 10 mins and it happened

[gdgraph]

Just ordered my BM3 tune. Car is essentially stock (just have a Dinan catback), and I'm looking to pick my 1 included OTS map. Trying to decide between the Stage 1 91 octane vs Stage 1 93 octane.

Majority of gas station by me sell 93, if I get the Stage 1 for 93 and go on a road trip and only 91 is available what do I need to do? Would I have to reflash back to my stock map to run 91?

Is my best bet to just get the stage 1 91 octane? If I do that can I still use 93 (since 91 is not available locally). Is there any data or other threads out there that show the power differences between the stage 1 91 vs 93?

[Supr3me]

Originally Posted by gdgraph

Just ordered my BM3 tune. Car is essentially stock (just have a Dinan catback), and I'm looking to pick my 1 included OTS map. Trying to decide between the Stage 1 91 octane vs Stage 1 93 octane.

Majority of gas station by me sell 93, if I get the Stage 1 for 93 and go on a road trip and only 91 is available what do I need to do? Would I have to reflash back to my stock map to run 91?

Is my best bet to just get the stage 1 91 octane? If I do that can I still use 93 (since 91 is not available locally). Is there any data or other threads out there that show the power differences between the stage 1 91 vs 93?

Get the 93 tune since you have 93 available near you. If you needed to take a road trip and only lower octane fuel is available, the car will still run fine on 91 for normal driving and cruising. The extra octane is only needed for WOT. You'd just need to remember that if you have 91 in the tank to avoid WOT pulls.

[kern417]

Originally Posted by vinzcast21

Yeah the car was running on and i turned it off for groceries like 10 mins and it happened

Probably just a fluke. If it starts happening frequently, it's time to look for fueling issues or fuel pump issues. But I doubt it's tune related.

[NISFAN]

I set GTS roar to enabled, however it only does it intermittently, maybe 1 in 3 starts. Anyone experience same?

[gdgraph]

Originally Posted by Sµpreme

Get the 93 tune since you have 93 available near you. If you needed to take a road trip and only lower octane fuel is available, the car will still run fine on 91 for normal driving and cruising. The extra octane is only needed for WOT. You'd just need to remember that if you have 91 in the tank to avoid WOT pulls.

Great, thanks!

[Supr3me]

Originally Posted by suckafreebmw

Is using the BM3 as a backend flash with the jb4 advisable, over running just the BM3 as far as performance and safety goes?

Different tune, but here's my experience:
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=107

[2013mingrey335i]

Has anyone had any issues after refueling the car will stumble a little at a light once or twice then acts fine ?

[alyabiev]

Originally Posted by 2013mingrey335i

Has anyone had any issues after refueling the car will stumble a little at a light once or twice then acts fine ?

Mine does that being completely stock & never flashed

[2013mingrey335i]

Originally Posted by alyabiev

Mine does that being completely stock & never flashed

Every time or just some ?
Mines some but just started 2 months ago

[alyabiev]

Originally Posted by 2013mingrey335i

Every time or just some ?
Mines some but just started 2 months ago

Does every day from the first day I got her new. I have made 5000 miles to date.

[gdgraph]

Is the battery tender really needed for first time flash? I watched a video of someone flashing it first time and they just turned lights, radio, and fans off and it seemed fine.

I only ask because I don't have a tender and even if I did I dint have anywhere to use it because I lived in a high rise and there's no outlets in my garage.

[les anderson]

Originally Posted by NISFAN

I set GTS roar to enabled, however it only does it intermittently, maybe 1 in 3 starts. Anyone experience same?

If the engine is cold it will not do it.

[NISFAN]

Originally Posted by gdgraph

Is the battery tender really needed for first time flash? I watched a video of someone flashing it first time and they just turned lights, radio, and fans off and it seemed fine.

I only ask because I don't have a tender and even if I did I dint have anywhere to use it because I lived in a high rise and there's no outlets in my garage.

I didn't use a battery tender. I made sure all power drain sources were off, lights, HVAC, radio, etc.

I'm not sure why people insist on having an alternate power source when flashing, I get the consequences of battery dying mid flash, but the ECU is a low power user, so a very low risk on a good condition battery.

[vinzcast21]

Originally Posted by alyabiev

Does every day from the first day I got her new. I have made 5000 miles to date.

check my post for fix (carbon evap problems)

[kern417]

Originally Posted by NISFAN

I set GTS roar to enabled, however it only does it intermittently, maybe 1 in 3 starts. Anyone experience same?

Originally Posted by les anderson

If the engine is cold it will not do it.

Same here, so I just disabled it. I thought it was because I had cold start off, but randomly it would do the loud GTS roar and then settle at idle. And i realized it was only doing it when starting the car warm. I don't make a habit of going somewhere and leaving 5 min later, so what's the point?

[vinzcast21]

Originally Posted by kern417

Same here, so I just disabled it. I thought it was because I had cold start off, but randomly it would do the loud GTS roar and then settle at idle. And i realized it was only doing it when starting the car warm. I don't make a habit of going somewhere and leaving 5 min later, so what's the point?

car meets

[BMWILUVU]

So BM3 upgrades the HP & Torque dials by upping the range. I was driving around stage1 noticing the torque on the dial hit 500+ ft-lb almost 700 Nm. How is that possible? Sounds more accurate if it was Nm. Anyone else has this problem?

[jackstrath]

Originally Posted by NISFAN

I didn't use a battery tender. I made sure all power drain sources were off, lights, HVAC, radio, etc.

I'm not sure why people insist on having an alternate power source when flashing, I get the consequences of battery dying mid flash, but the ECU is a low power user, so a very low risk on a good condition battery.

Ignition on only, heaters, lights, radio “off” , these cars still draw about 15 amps doing “nothing”

I’d always recommend at very least going for a drive for 30 mins before flashing at a very minimum. Low battery voltage mid flash will give you a sore head.

[GhoodLife]

hey i just picked up my 540i not even a hour ago and i dont like how the exhaust isnt loud as the 440s or 335s or xm40s etc. Does flashing the car also give it louder and more aggressive exhaust notes when idling and starting the car up and WOTing?

Thank you