10-13-2017, 12:44 AM | #155 | |
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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=41_2190 I haven?t been able to find the same on the m235iR diagrams, either they?re incomplete of it doesn?t have that piece (unlikely) I’m not sure you can even get your hands on this part, and if you could it would require to wield it we think.
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10-13-2017, 10:49 AM | #157 |
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Or a strong bonding agent like epoxy. just prep the surface and glue.
i think there are two parts one with holes and one without that welded as the edge pieces from factory. so I'm not even sure you can put it on without cutting the other piece out first. i had a look at my car and the piece is welded on all sides. i found the m235ir diagrams i just need to look closer. It didn't have those brackets that i could find. trying to ask someone with bmw... |
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10-13-2017, 08:30 PM | #158 |
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Updated 1 more thing
If you watched mount support bearing as compared, you can find some difference both 3/4 sereis' and M3/M4's. 3/4 series one has 13mm center hole and M3/M4 one 14mm. It could make unstable damper movement because 3/4 series's damper's screw thread is smaller than M3/M4 one. (12mm screw thread meets 14mm mount support hole)
So, it needs 12mm center hole to make it fit with 12mm damper screw thread. 28.8mm / 12mm / 3T Washer is one of choice to make it correct it's rigidness. Please refer to attached pictures. Thanks ! |
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10-13-2017, 08:41 PM | #159 |
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How did you leave your extension rods. Did you just leave them floating then ? Do they bolt to each other and then just sit there ?
I am not using the M4 strut mounts. I am going to have GC modify my current Camber plates for the m235 to have the same bolt pattern as their M3/M4 so i can retrofit the brace ! It is a track car. |
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10-13-2017, 11:32 PM | #160 | |
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10-14-2017, 01:41 AM | #161 | |
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I have not but i’m surprised by this difference, and perhaps a little worried. By the way do you have the link to the korean forum where this is discussed?
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10-14-2017, 04:31 AM | #162 | |
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There 's no severe link around this tuning issue in Korean forum... (I am the only one who tried this tuning .. ) |
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10-14-2017, 05:40 PM | #163 | |
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10-15-2017, 03:59 PM | #164 |
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Im just trying to find a closeup picture online of the M4 with these struts mounted to the bracket in this location on the a-pillar to compare to my m235.
Anyone have such a thing ? Has anyone successfully fitted the tops of the extension rod the their car, or everyone skipping this step ? |
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10-24-2017, 12:31 PM | #166 | |
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3mm thick???? Thanks |
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10-29-2017, 07:50 AM | #167 |
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FYI for the 10mm blind rivet nut that is installed in the plugged hole on the side frame. It's loose because you need to use a blind rivet nut (rivnut,nutsert) tool to set it.
Fillister head screw M10 (alloy SB - edge) 34Nm 2EA : 07147162464 Blind rivet nut, flat headed 2EA : 51718065070 Last edited by zipphreak; 10-29-2017 at 08:12 AM.. |
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10-29-2017, 03:14 PM | #168 |
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Is there something equivalent for the F30?
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10-30-2017, 12:30 AM | #169 |
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yes .. it means 3 mm ... And additionally, I checked alignment last week after installing washer. front wheel towed out ... equivalently out of permited range ... it means washer affected front wheel alignment...
Last edited by Steve_Jr; 10-30-2017 at 01:13 AM.. |
10-30-2017, 01:24 AM | #170 | |
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Wondering if that could be the cause of a noise i started getting recently.
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10-30-2017, 06:06 AM | #171 | |
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I'll try to find various washers see which could work and if it removes the slight clunking noise I got.
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10-30-2017, 04:06 PM | #172 |
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So I seem to have managed to fix the noise by retightening the strut bolt to specs (40Nm) - understand that I untightened the nut which had been tightened with an impact wrench and tightened again with a torque wrench properly set to desired torque.
Now that still leaves me with this problem of off-center strut because the hole is slightly too big (see the red mark on the pic showing the gap - about 2mm) I don't want to use a washer like this because it's going to damage the thread above, but i'm thinking I could use one below/between the strut top and the hat, instead of inside.
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10-30-2017, 10:17 PM | #173 |
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Get Vorslag or GC camber plates fitted with the M3/M4 mounting points.
I already talked to GC since i have them for track days. They are going to retrofit the mounting points for the M4 brace, but keep the m235(f22) strut hole. An alternative would be for someone to create a custom machined strut nut that fills that small gap you've discovered. It's not a good idea to run these with any slop, additional noise is one thing, but it can possibly fatigue the strut rod, and potentially break at the strut mount. Not a good scenario on the road or track. Not sure if this would work, as it does not have a flange. It could potentially slip. Would need a flange on top ideally to keep it in place. https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-s...rings/=1a1mbvi Edit: maybe some thing like this ? http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/mo...od-x-17mm-long or http://www.igus.com/product/93 Last edited by zipphreak; 10-30-2017 at 10:41 PM.. |
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10-31-2017, 02:31 AM | #174 | ||
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Been looking for these for hours with no luck... so I ended up making my own 3D model and ordered a 3D-printed plastic version last night as a test before ordering a steel version (would be EUR35 apiece... better get it right!), but this looks more economical and possibly stronger than 3d printed - I'd just need to saw them to make them shorter - which may not be that easy! I'll wait for the plastic 3d-printed piece to arrive in a couple of weeks, that will give me a reference for dimensions, then decide which route to go.
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10-31-2017, 07:33 AM | #175 |
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Just validate those dimensions, I was going off the information in the posts previously. I would be interested to see what you come up with though. Keep us updated. This is a great thread, retrofits are never easy.
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11-11-2017, 04:40 AM | #176 |
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Hi
Some news on that front: I've ordered both a molded (plastic/polymer black piece) and a 3d printed part (white plastic prototype, 6 EUR for one piece) The black pastic one broke quickly when trying to fit over my stock dampers. The white 3d printed one held up but i suspect is a bit too thick, so the metal final version wouldn't be so compliant. However the great news is the knocking sound is gone, and seems now solid. Photos of before/after strut hats you can see the white plastic bit under the nut. i'll make a revised 3d model with slightly thinner walls and perhaps risk ordering in metal directly - stainless steel at 35 EUR a piece when ordering 2, or hesitating with titanium at 41 EUR a piece isn't much more expensive and could be a bit more solid too. Thoughts on that?
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