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      06-16-2018, 09:41 PM   #1
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N20/26 carbon build up - CRC GID intake valve cleaner

Has anyone tried using the CRC GID cleaner? I search on this forum and found 1 thread but doesn't really speak much about it.
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      06-21-2018, 06:56 AM   #2
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i took my intake manifold off and sprayed it into the ports and let it sit.. sucked out black fluid came out very clean.. then cleaned off my throttle body and manifold itself as well does good job of removing all carbon.
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      06-22-2018, 09:29 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 14328DXDRIVE View Post
i took my intake manifold off and sprayed it into the ports and let it sit.. sucked out black fluid came out very clean.. then cleaned off my throttle body and manifold itself as well does good job of removing all carbon.
I'll have to look up the instructions on ISTA. What does it entail to remove the intake manifold?
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      06-22-2018, 09:34 AM   #4
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Anyone have pics of their valves before cleaning?

Few of us are very interested to see just how gunked up they get...
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      07-25-2018, 01:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 14328DXDRIVE View Post
i took my intake manifold off and sprayed it into the ports and let it sit.. sucked out black fluid came out very clean.. then cleaned off my throttle body and manifold itself as well does good job of removing all carbon.
How did you close your valve?
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      09-01-2018, 02:03 AM   #6
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joined just to say I would love to see more information on this.
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      09-01-2018, 02:17 AM   #7
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Is there a simpler alternative than taking off intake manifold?
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      11-20-2018, 08:12 PM   #8
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CRC GDI use

Many videos on Utube showing the use of CRC, I tried it last week with great results. Only a screw driver needed on my wifes 428I convertible N20 motor.
I just popped out the air box and air filter, unscrewed the clamp to the MAP sensor and removed it and unplugged the electrical connector and set it aside.
I should mention you need to go for a ride and thoroughly warm up your vehicle, then remove the air box etc. Then have some one hold the engine rpm at 2,000 rpm and spray short bursts and wait a few secs and spray again short bursts, repeat until the can is empty, to avoid getting check engine lights don't spay too long and let rpms recover between spray bursts. Many users on utube had check engine lights but they nearly choked out the engine by spraying too long and too fast between bursts. I didn't get any codes going slow and waiting between spray bursts.
The can has the directions on it, after the can is empty rev the engine two or three times to 3,500 rpm, let it idle for a min. and shut it off and wait an hour for it to do it's magic, then go for a ride at highway speeds for 10 mins or more. When I started the car after the hour wait it stalled but restarted and ran a bit rough for a few mins, after a few miles I mashed the gas and kicked it down to a lower gear several times and each time the engine got smoother. After the 10 mins I floored it several times and it blew out the carbon. After leaving the highway I put in eco mode and it shifted and drove so smooth even the wife noticed!
I would recommend it prior to every oil change to keep the valves clean, the car had 53,000 miles on it when I did the CRC and really noticed a difference. I'm sold!!
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      11-20-2018, 08:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rwgems View Post
Many videos on Utube showing the use of CRC, I tried it last week with great results. Only a screw driver needed on my wifes 428I convertible N20 motor.
I just popped out the air box and air filter, unscrewed the clamp to the MAP sensor and removed it and unplugged the electrical connector and set it aside.
I should mention you need to go for a ride and thoroughly warm up your vehicle, then remove the air box etc. Then have some one hold the engine rpm at 2,000 rpm and spray short bursts and wait a few secs and spray again short bursts, repeat until the can is empty, to avoid getting check engine lights don't spay too long and let rpms recover between spray bursts. Many users on utube had check engine lights but they nearly choked out the engine by spraying too long and too fast between bursts. I didn't get any codes going slow and waiting between spray bursts.
The can has the directions on it, after the can is empty rev the engine two or three times to 3,500 rpm, let it idle for a min. and shut it off and wait an hour for it to do it's magic, then go for a ride at highway speeds for 10 mins or more. When I started the car after the hour wait it stalled but restarted and ran a bit rough for a few mins, after a few miles I mashed the gas and kicked it down to a lower gear several times and each time the engine got smoother. After the 10 mins I floored it several times and it blew out the carbon. After leaving the highway I put in eco mode and it shifted and drove so smooth even the wife noticed!
I would recommend it prior to every oil change to keep the valves clean, the car had 53,000 miles on it when I did the CRC and really noticed a difference. I'm sold!!
Appreciate the insight on the product but I have to say Id be scared silly to follow the exact procedure you described with my car.
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      11-20-2018, 08:24 PM   #10
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Have you guys ever thought about running a catch can to help avoid the carbon buildup in the first place rather than trying to get rid of it after the fact?

Just wondering.
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      11-21-2018, 02:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Anyone have pics of their valves before cleaning?

Few of us are very interested to see just how gunked up they get...
I bought a couple cans a month or so ago and have been waiting to do the cleaning. I have an endoscope and plan to take before and after pics, but it's kind of a PITA to finagle the thing through the intake manifold and get it to go where you want it to. I tried once already, and from the not-so-great-images I have managed to get so far, there doesn't appear to be a lot of carbon build-up on my valves, but I will try again before I do the cleaning. If it works I will for sure post pics.
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      11-21-2018, 02:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Have you guys ever thought about running a catch can to help avoid the carbon buildup in the first place rather than trying to get rid of it after the fact?

Just wondering.
I have been debating on one of these myself. I have read everything from "they work great," to "total waste of money." You have one installed on your car, yes? What's been your experience so far? Is yours catching anything?
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      11-21-2018, 07:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Have you guys ever thought about running a catch can to help avoid the carbon buildup in the first place rather than trying to get rid of it after the fact?

Just wondering.
I seriously considered a catch can for my B46 but decided against it due to a couple factors:

1. The contents can freeze, potentially clogging the entire system. Yikes.

2. The can and extra plumbing cause additional back pressure within the PCV system, which is already sensitive to pressure levels.

Utimately I'd rather just commit to walnut shell blasting every 50k miles and know that everything is functioning as-designed.
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      09-01-2019, 05:48 PM   #14
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I know this is an old thread but I wanted to share that yesterday I treated my intake valves with CRC intake valve and turbo cleaner. I first drove the 328 to get it to operating temperature and then I came home and removed the engine cover. On the intake manifold right behind the throttle body is what I believe a MAP sensor. I removed the sensor it was held with two T20 screws. I then had my wife keep the RPM's at 2k you will need someone to help you with the process because once you pull that MAP sensor the engine will want to cut off. I then sprayed the intake cleaner in through the MAP sensor's housing in short 1 to half second bursts until the can was done. During the process the check engine light did turn on but once I finished the can and reconnected the MAP sensor, did the 3 revs to 3.5k and let it idle for 1 minute the check engine light turned off before the engine had to be shut off to heat soak for an hour. I then took it on the highway for a 10 minute drive as the can stated once I was done the engine idled a lot smoother. As for throttle response I felt it was a bit more spirited. Everything went well with the process so I just wanted to update this thread and share my experience. I purchased the can of CRC intake and valve and turbo cleaner at my local autozone for like $14. I most likely will do this process again in another 10k to 20k miles. I did this at 53K and I have the N26 engine in my 328i. Hope this post helps others out.
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      09-01-2019, 10:25 PM   #15
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You can do this without help. I cut a piece of 2x2 wood to fit between the gas pedal and the seat, then used the electric seat adjustment to push it far enough forward to press the pedal down just enough to keep the engine at 2000 RPM.
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      12-24-2019, 01:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
You can do this without help. I cut a piece of 2x2 wood to fit between the gas pedal and the seat, then used the electric seat adjustment to push it far enough forward to press the pedal down just enough to keep the engine at 2000 RPM.
Brilliant
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      05-12-2020, 04:04 PM   #17
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hey fellas.. I'm going to be doing this maintenance in the next few days on my N20. I see most of you removed the MAF sensor, and sprayed from there, but given it's distance to the manifold, I was thinking about spraying CRC into the whole where the MAP sensor lives, right before the throttle body.

Any thoughts?
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      05-12-2020, 04:28 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ooshnoo View Post
hey fellas.. I'm going to be doing this maintenance in the next few days on my N20. I see most of you removed the MAF sensor, and sprayed from there, but given it's distance to the manifold, I was thinking about spraying CRC into the whole where the MAP sensor lives, right before the throttle body.

Any thoughts?
I have not tried it that way. I sprayed into the intake past (avoid) the MAF sensor as others have done - making sure to do short bursts so it doesn't flood the engine.

Technically it should work as you described but I don't know if having the MAP unplugged will cause issues.
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      05-12-2020, 08:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ooshnoo View Post
hey fellas.. I'm going to be doing this maintenance in the next few days on my N20. I see most of you removed the MAF sensor, and sprayed from there, but given it's distance to the manifold, I was thinking about spraying CRC into the whole where the MAP sensor lives, right before the throttle body.

Any thoughts?
See posts above, someone specifically said they did it this way.
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      05-12-2020, 08:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
See posts above, someone specifically said they did it this way.
No shit? Must have missed it. Will read more closely next time.
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      05-12-2020, 08:14 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannyM235 View Post
I know this is an old thread but I wanted to share that yesterday I treated my intake valves with CRC intake valve and turbo cleaner. I first drove the 328 to get it to operating temperature and then I came home and removed the engine cover. On the intake manifold right behind the throttle body is what I believe a MAP sensor. I removed the sensor it was held with two T20 screws. I then had my wife keep the RPM's at 2k you will need someone to help you with the process because once you pull that MAP sensor the engine will want to cut off. I then sprayed the intake cleaner in through the MAP sensor's housing in short 1 to half second bursts until the can was done. During the process the check engine light did turn on but once I finished the can and reconnected the MAP sensor, did the 3 revs to 3.5k and let it idle for 1 minute the check engine light turned off before the engine had to be shut off to heat soak for an hour. I then took it on the highway for a 10 minute drive as the can stated once I was done the engine idled a lot smoother. As for throttle response I felt it was a bit more spirited. Everything went well with the process so I just wanted to update this thread and share my experience. I purchased the can of CRC intake and valve and turbo cleaner at my local autozone for like $14. I most likely will do this process again in another 10k to 20k miles. I did this at 53K and I have the N26 engine in my 328i. Hope this post helps others out.
^
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      11-25-2022, 12:13 PM   #22
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Berryman also now has a product out, thinking about trying that out.
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