[Momir13]

Chasing 2 noises in the car. Dealer guessed it was adaptive suspension. Changed both front struts, but noises still present. I am on adaptive suspension !!! I thought sounds were caused by the rack, dealer was adamant it's not the rack.

First sound is a really loud chatter that happens sometimes when turning, can't consistently recreate.

https://youtube.com/shorts/vmbaKaQzD8s?feature=share

The second noise is a warble sound that you have to listen for. it's somewhat faint on video, but pretty noticeable, due to its pitch, in person.

https://youtube.com/shorts/n_HKx2zt_OM?feature=share



"Could it even be the same noise at dif intensities ????"

[cfm56d7b]

So the dealer suspected that the two front M Adaptive struts were at fault?

The price of the "guess" is at least $1500. Not trivial.

Why did the dealer suspect the front struts? How many miles does your car have?

[cfm56d7b]

So the dealer suspected / guessed that the two front M Adaptive struts were at fault?

The price of the "guess" is at least $1500. Not trivial.

Why did the dealer suspect the front struts? How many miles does your car have?

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

So the dealer suspected / guessed that the two front M Adaptive struts were at fault?

The price of the "guess" is at least $1500. Not trivial.

Why did the dealer suspect the front struts? How many miles does your car have?

You would think that's why you bring a car to a dealer? To take the guesswork out of the repair.

If it's not the struts and top hats, and the control arms are in good condition, I'd be inclined to look at the thrust bearing on the steering rack.

[Momir13]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

So the dealer suspected that the two front M Adaptive struts were at fault?

The price of the "guess" is at least $1500. Not trivial.

Why did the dealer suspect the front struts? How many miles does your car have?

Hey yes it was 1500 for one, they only suspected front left.
I just did both fronts myself , have also done the sway bar end links on both sides and the top mounts.

Steering rack is noisy in two spots but they just refused to look at it saying it a a 3,000k part.

Anyone remember how long the steering rack is covered for mileage wise

Am at 98k

First time I took to dealer about the noise was at about 85k and under pre owned warranty. The did fix my belt actuator at that visits .

Gfs been driving the car and she doesn't notice it lolol hence the mileage gap. Hers is about to be fixed so I'll get her back soon and trynna fix this ASAP

[SlowF30]

I have a similar noise coming from the front left. I'm bringing my car in next week to have some maintenance done and to have this checked out.

Keep us posted on what you find.

[Mrlten]

Originally Posted by Momir13

The second noise is a warble sound that you have to listen for. it's somewhat faint on video, but pretty noticeable, due to its pitch, in person.

https://youtube.com/shorts/n_HKx2zt_OM?feature=share

You mean that faint squeaky sound throughout the video (and not the 2 bangs at the 2 second mark)? I have the same noise coming from the front right.

I got the noise short after I've replaced the lower control arms and thrust arms but I'm not sure if it's related...

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Mrlten

You mean that faint squeaky sound throughout the video (and not the 2 bangs at the 2 second mark)? I have the same noise coming from the front right.

I got the noise short after I've replaced the lower control arms and thrust arms but I'm not sure if it's related...

Just a thought...
When replaced, control arm bolts aren't supposed to be torqued down until the car is back on the ground under full load. Wonder if it could make that noise if they had been tightened too much while in the air?

[hollovoid7]

Originally Posted by johnung

Just a thought...
When replaced, control arm bolts aren't supposed to be torqued down until the car is back on the ground under full load. Wonder if it could make that noise if they had been tightened too much while in the air?

Originally Posted by johnung

Just a thought...
When replaced, control arm bolts aren't supposed to be torqued down until the car is back on the ground under full load. Wonder if it could make that noise if they had been tightened too much while in the air?

Honestly bmw dealer mechanics treat warranty and non warranty problems similarly. I had a leaking diff out of warranty and they wanted to replace it instead of the seal. Because that's what the software tells them to do. Take it to an Indy. I'd much rather they replace a 25 dollar part and 40 dollars in fluid , and 150 in labor, than 2500 dollar part and 1000+ in labor, but that isn't how they are taught. My example but I think it holds true with how they approach repairs.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by hollovoid7

Honestly bmw dealer mechanics treat warranty and non warranty problems similarly. I had a leaking diff out of warranty and they wanted to replace it instead of the seal. Because that's what the software tells them to do. Take it to an Indy. I'd much rather they replace a 25 dollar part and 40 dollars in fluid , and 150 in labor, than 2500 dollar part and 1000+ in labor, but that isn't how they are taught. My example but I think it holds true with how they approach repairs.

Excellent advice! I found a great local independent BMW mechanic at BimmerShops website

[Momir13]

Originally Posted by hollovoid7

Honestly bmw dealer mechanics treat warranty and non warranty problems similarly. I had a leaking diff out of warranty and they wanted to replace it instead of the seal. Because that's what the software tells them to do. Take it to an Indy. I'd much rather they replace a 25 dollar part and 40 dollars in fluid , and 150 in labor, than 2500 dollar part and 1000+ in labor, but that isn't how they are taught. My example but I think it holds true with how they approach repairs.

True!! but I took the car in originally while under warranty(last day before it expired) ,
so if It is the rack and it gets fixed for free I'd rather go that route.
Plus if it is the rack an Indy may or may not have the ability of coding the new rack for you.

It's the faint noises yes not the bangs. The bangs were just harsh bumps on shitty neighborhood road !

I never had my control arms done, just the struts the mounts and the sway bar end links (this was the Indys guess)

The sway bar end links did move the sound. In terms that I used to be able to recreate the sound while turning into my neighborhood every time, but after the sway bar end links, the sound no longer occurs when entering the neighborhood.

So if that helps/makes sense the sway bar end link replacement did alter the sounds occurrence

[hollovoid7]

Originally Posted by Momir13

True!! but I took the car in originally while under warranty(last day before it expired) ,
so if It is the rack and it gets fixed for free I'd rather go that route.
Plus if it is the rack an Indy may or may not have the ability of coding the new rack for you.

It's the faint noises yes not the bangs. The bangs were just harsh bumps on shitty neighborhood road !

I never had my control arms done, just the struts the mounts and the sway bar end links (this was the Indys guess)

The sway bar end links did move the sound. In terms that I used to be able to recreate the sound while turning into my neighborhood every time, but after the sway bar end links, the sound no longer occurs when entering the neighborhood.

So if that helps/makes sense the sway bar end link replacement did alter the sounds occurrence

Oh definitely, if you are under warranty, let them replace every thing lol. A good Indy should have all the stuff to do anything (the one I go to works on bmw all the way to lambos, so they have everything). I did my control arms, and rear shocks myself, struts and mounts are getting replaced by the Indy, because alignment and I'm not crazy about dealing with springs, and I'll tell you, the control arms alone at 94k made an enormous difference. The rear shocks did too, I imagine with the front struts getting done the car will ride pretty nice for a while.

[Momir13]

Originally Posted by hollovoid7

Oh definitely, if you are under warranty, let them replace every thing lol. A good Indy should have all the stuff to do anything (the one I go to works on bmw all the way to lambos, so they have everything). I did my control arms, and rear shocks myself, struts and mounts are getting replaced by the Indy, because alignment and I'm not crazy about dealing with springs, and I'll tell you, the control arms alone at 94k made an enormous difference. The rear shocks did too, I imagine with the front struts getting done the car will ride pretty nice for a while.

I'm surprised my videos didn't help out, usually videos of noises get resolved within a matter of days .

I am no longer under warranty and won't be throwing anymore money at the noises until someone has a suggestion lol.

I did end up doing springs whenever I replaced the struts mounts and bump stops , which is what those bangs were from, the slightly sportier suspension set up lol

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Momir13

I'm surprised my videos didn't help out, usually videos of noises get resolved within a matter of days .

I am no longer under warranty and won't be throwing anymore money at the noises until someone has a suggestion lol.

I did end up doing springs whenever I replaced the struts mounts and bump stops , which is what those bangs were from, the slightly sportier suspension set up lol

Could it be your sway bar endlinks?

[Momir13]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Could it be your sway bar endlinks?

See earlier posts : end links were changed and gave me a phantom "fix". Sounds moved for lack of better explanation

Sound was harder to recreate and didn't occur at its usual roads/turns .

It has now established new regular occurrences in different parts of roads / different types of turns

[casualDIYer]

I've got a front end rattle as well. I've been spending time chasing down issues with parts rattling against the splash guard, including air con hoses, missing c-clamps and screws. Endlinks are fine. It seems like plastic parts are rattling against the splash shield since when I pull down the bumper and tap on the shield, no rattle.

Maybe I'll drive around without the shield and see if the problem goes away.

[Momir13]

Originally Posted by casualDIYer

I've got a front end rattle as well. I've been spending time chasing down issues with parts rattling against the splash guard, including air con hoses, missing c-clamps and screws. Endlinks are fine. It seems like plastic parts are rattling against the splash shield since when I pull down the bumper and tap on the shield, no rattle.

Maybe I'll drive around without the shield and see if the problem goes away.

Lemme know if you have any luck!!!

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by Momir13

Lemme know if you have any luck!!!

I found a few of the problems that have helped a lot but not 100%

1) the left brake duct rattles. It goes from the bumper to an outlet in the front wheel liner. The duct snakes around a large aluminum bracket, which it then rattles against. I stuck a large wad of two sided tape between the bracket and duct, one rattle gone

2) missing c-clips on the undertray. Replaced. Fewer rattles

3) Air con hoses sag over time and end up rattling on the splash guard. Use cable ties to pull them back up again. One hose had no bracket so I secured it with cable tie to a neighbour hose. It helps

4) plastic within the m-sport bumper rattles like hell. Hush tape + 2-sided tape have reduced rattles

5) the final and most frustrating rattle was the result of one of the 8mm screws of the splash shield rattling against plastic from the inter cooler. Back the screw out, rattle gone. Tighten it, rattle back. I put a piece of two sided tape between the screw head and c-clip and that fixed another rattle

A final clunk remains. Haven’t found it’s origin but may wait until I swap struts and springs.

Good luck

[Bugyman85]

view this

https://youtube.com/shorts/n_HKx2zt_OM?feature=share

[Bugyman85]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

You would think that's why you bring a car to a dealer? To take the guesswork out of the repair.

If it's not the struts and top hats, and the control arms are in good condition, I'd be inclined to look at the thrust bearing on the steering rack.

W40 )

[Momir13]

Originally Posted by Bugyman85

view this

https://youtube.com/shorts/n_HKx2zt_OM?feature=share

That's my video yes

[Momir13]

Originally Posted by Bugyman85

W40 )

W40? Or wd40? And what should I use it on