[quikM2]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

With the OE bushings I'd aim for the following:
Front camber: max negative (probably about -0.6 or -0.7deg each side)
Front toe: 0.3 to 0.1deg toe in each side
Rear camber: -1 to -1.25deg each side
Rear toe: 0.1 to 0.15deg toe in each side

Thanks! Is that the toe BMW recommends or why do you have those specs?

I'm hoping for a little more negative camber then that as well in the front.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by quikM2

Thanks! Is that the toe BMW recommends or why do you have those specs?

I'm hoping for a little more negative camber then that as well in the front.

Those aren't BMW specs, but those based off of a BMW shop I trust that got me started, and my personal experience (I've done like 4-5 alignments in the past year playing around with things).

To explain them:
Front Camber: You want as much as possible so the front end grabs during cornering. BMW doesn't offer nearly enough, so max out what you can. M-cars come with around -1.5deg each side from the factory, so there's plenty to go.

Front Toe (I just realized I accidentally put 0.3 and not 0.03deg in the last post): BMW (and other mfgs) typically spec more toe than required so the car tracks straight when you take your hands off the wheel and for more straight light stability. When the toe is excessive however it hurts turn in response. Even at 0.03deg toe in each side the car tracks straight IME and turn in response is much quicker. Your car will fee much more nimble than before. You don't want to go too close to 0 or toe out though, because then the front end will want to "dance" around and will require more steering corrections. I made that mistake once when I tried having it aligned to 0.01deg in each side.

Rear Camber: The rear actually has a lot of adjustment available from the factory. The -1.5 to -2deg from the factory would make sense if the front camber were more negative, but is just out of balance when you're limited to -.7deg in the front. They do this so the rear has more grip and your car understeers. Going to -1deg in the rear will better balance the front to rear and allow the car to rotate better.

Rear Toe: Rear toe in will keep the car more stable on launching. I like it a bit higher than front toe, but not excessive.

[quikM2]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

Those aren't BMW specs, but those based off of a BMW shop I trust that got me started, and my personal experience (I've done like 4-5 alignments in the past year playing around with things).

To explain them:
Front Camber: You want as much as possible so the front end grabs during cornering. BMW doesn't offer nearly enough, so max out what you can. M-cars come with around -1.5deg each side from the factory, so there's plenty to go.

Front Toe (I just realized I accidentally put 0.3 and not 0.03deg in the last post): BMW (and other mfgs) typically spec more toe than required so the car tracks straight when you take your hands off the wheel and for more straight light stability. When the toe is excessive however it hurts turn in response. Even at 0.03deg toe in each side the car tracks straight IME and turn in response is much quicker. Your car will fee much more nimble than before. You don't want to go too close to 0 or toe out though, because then the front end will want to "dance" around and will require more steering corrections. I made that mistake once when I tried having it aligned to 0.01deg in each side.

Rear Camber: The rear actually has a lot of adjustment available from the factory. The -1.5 to -2deg from the factory would make sense if the front camber were more negative, but is just out of balance when you're limited to -.7deg in the front. They do this so the rear has more grip and your car understeers. Going to -1deg in the rear will better balance the front to rear and allow the car to rotate better.

Rear Toe: Rear toe in will keep the car more stable on launching. I like it a bit higher than front toe, but not excessive.

That makes a ton of sense, thank you for this

I really wish you could get more than -0.7 in the front though. that sucks. the service manager told me he thinks they can get over negative 1 for sure. So much for that.

This is exactly why I 'need' the new M3 lol

[FaRKle!]

Yesterday Andino and I took apart one of his Bilstein B14 front struts. Compared to the B6s the shock body and piston shaft are shorter, so the strut overall has less droop travel (makes sense since it's a lower ride height). There didn't seem to be any loctite on the bottom nut or piston shaft threaded into the strut body.

Below is a pic of the bump stop. It's 1.5" long, and a medium hardness compound, vs the super soft one (that got torn up) in my B6s.

[SoCalCarGuy]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

With the OE bushings I'd aim for the following:
Front camber: max negative (probably about -0.60 or -0.70deg each side)
Front toe: 0.03 to 0.10deg toe in each side
Rear camber: -1.0 to -1.25deg each side
Rear toe: 0.10 to 0.15deg toe in each side

Why do you recommend so little camber in the rear?

My bmw shop set my rear at -1.7 each side. Once I get the camber bushing in the front, we are going to aim for -1.5 to keep balance and no oversteer. Thoughts?

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by SoCalCarGuy

Why do you recommend so little camber in the rear?

My bmw shop set my rear at -1.7 each side. Once I get the camber bushing in the front, we are going to aim for -1.5 to keep balance and no oversteer. Thoughts?

See my post a few posts up where I explain.

[SoCalCarGuy]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

See my post a few posts up where I explain.

that makes sense! balance is key

[chaty17]

Bump Stops Affect Height Ride, be cause i upgraded to B6 and H&R Springs but with new oem Bump Stops (my car is a f36) but i feel that my car with the stock springs and struts have a lower height ride

so if i upgrade my bump stops to the ones of the F8X my car will lower even more ?

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

What I meant was look at the photos from Dinan's website/product page. You can see the bump stops they supply aren't cut.






I would change the bump stops with any set of lowering springs. With springs that are similar in rate to the F8x springs, I think F8x bump stops will pair well and follow the design intentions BMW had better than the E39/E60 "Dinan" bump stops. With springs stiffer than those on the F8x cars, the softer E39/E60 "Dinan" ones might work better since bump stop stiffness probably doesn't need to be as high.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by chaty17

Bump Stops Affect Height Ride, be cause i upgraded to B6 and H&R Springs but with new oem Bump Stops (my car is a f36) but i feel that my car with the stock springs and struts have a lower height ride

so if i upgrade my bump stops to the ones of the F8X my car will lower even more ?

Bump stops only affect height if you're sitting on them when at rest (which shouldn't be the case unless your springs are too low).

The B6 are known for boosting ride height on this platform. Myself and others have personally experienced that. Part of it is due to them positioning the front strut spring perches a bit higher, and the other part of it is the high gas forces (adding an additional ~40lbs of upwards force vs OE dampers).

[karbonation]

Hi,

I recently purchased a set of KONI SAs; however, didnt realize that they are not advisable with the current H&R sport spring (1.6/1.4 drop) set up. I love the ride height so I dont want to revert to OEM. Returning/exchanging is prohibitive so not an option I want to pursue if I dont have to. What are my options?

I'm considering the following:
1. Swap to ACS springs (1" all around, unconfirmed)
2. Swap to Eibachs (.8F .6R)
3. Swap to Dinans (.75 all around)

Notes: I dont daily the car anymore but she is my project baby. I wouldnt mind keeping the H&R with the SAs although unadvisable if someone can confirm "given that you dont daily, you can live with it"

Ideally i want as low and as stiff as possible given the ride height allowances with the SAs.

Thanks in advance

[52172]

Are these the correct rear bump stops? Going to upgrade rear bumps when we install my Coilover set?


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F172588899883

[jh_f30]

Originally Posted by 52172

Are these the correct rear bump stops? Going to upgrade rear bumps when we install my Coilover set?


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F172588899883

I ordered/installed these.

BMW Genuine With Guard Tube Rear Auxiliary Damper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y41N3W6..._skT5Db9ZAC29X

[52172]

Originally Posted by jh_f30

I ordered/installed these.

BMW Genuine With Guard Tube Rear Auxiliary Damper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y41N3W6..._skT5Db9ZAC29X

Price is right but I'm wanting e60 stops.

[52172]

Originally Posted by jh_f30

I ordered/installed these.

BMW Genuine With Guard Tube Rear Auxiliary Damper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y41N3W6..._skT5Db9ZAC29X

Did you notice a difference with the shorter bump stops?

[jh_f30]

Originally Posted by 52172

Did you notice a difference with the shorter bump stops?

Hard to say since I replaced the rear shocks at the same time.

[radicalrev]

Does anyone have a link or part number to the Dinan front bump stops?

[bcuz_b58]

Bumping an old thread for a question.

First off, thank you FaRKle! for your in depth analysis! This and all of your other research has been incredibly helpful in my suspension adventures.

I have a 2016 340i xDrive, and I have a set of H&R sport springs waiting to be installed, but wanted to upgrade the bump stops with them.

According to what's been posted here, since the H&Rs drop more than 1" (advertised at 1.6"/1.5" f/r), would the recommendation the softer "Dinan" bump stops to pair with the increased drop, or do you guys have any other recommendations? The total setup will be OEM M Adaptive dampers, H&R Sport springs, and the proper paired bump stops. I'm leaning towards the Dinan ones just due to them being a bit "softer", as I've seen reports of crashing with the stock ones, and the F8x ones that were mentioned are stiffer than stock.

Thanks in advance for any assistance!

[SantaEugence]

Originally Posted by bcuz_b58

Bumping an old thread for a question.

First off, thank you FaRKle! for your in depth analysis! This and all of your other research has been incredibly helpful in my suspension adventures.

I have a 2016 340i xDrive, and I have a set of H&R sport springs waiting to be installed, but wanted to upgrade the bump stops with them.

According to what's been posted here, since the H&Rs drop more than 1" (advertised at 1.6"/1.5" f/r), would the recommendation the softer "Dinan" bump stops to pair with the increased drop, or do you guys have any other recommendations? The total setup will be OEM M Adaptive dampers, H&R Sport springs, and the proper paired bump stops. I'm leaning towards the Dinan ones just due to them being a bit "softer", as I've seen reports of crashing with the stock ones, and the F8x ones that were mentioned are stiffer than stock.

Thanks in advance for any assistance!

Are these HR Sport or Super Sport (later is lower).

With just sport, HR state factory bump stops should be fine (not sure on super sport). Tbh the shock travel just isn't enough on the standard shocks for anything beyond the Eibach or ACS 20mm ish drop, so you can probably fit any bump stop you want and still get crashing on the HR over bigger pot holes (happy to be corrected).

My advice is 100% if you can, spend more and replace your shocks at the same time. You'll inevitably have to do it sooner with lowering springs anyway and you'll be so thankful.
I've got HR Sport on my 330dx adaptive and whilst the height looks spot on, I have to accept that any larger dips or bumps will cause the stops to bottom out. That's also (Farkle avert your eyes) with standard bump stops trimmed slightly - it was either that or fit different stops and pay another £££ in labour with the specialist telling me it would make little difference with a HR/standard shock combo

[bcuz_b58]

Originally Posted by SantaEugence

Are these HR Sport or Super Sport (later is lower).

With just sport, HR state factory bump stops should be fine (not sure on super sport). Tbh the shock travel just isn't enough on the standard shocks for anything beyond the Eibach or ACS 20mm ish drop, so you can probably fit any bump stop you want and still get crashing on the HR over bigger pot holes (happy to be corrected).

My advice is 100% if you can, spend more and replace your shocks at the same time. You'll inevitably have to do it sooner with lowering springs anyway and you'll be so thankful.
I've got HR Sport on my 330dx adaptive and whilst the height looks spot on, I have to accept that any larger dips or bumps will cause the stops to bottom out. That's also (Farkle avert your eyes) with standard bump stops trimmed slightly - it was either that or fit different stops and pay another £££ in labour with the specialist telling me it would make little difference with a HR/standard shock combo

I have only the Sport kit. If it weren't for my plans to pick up a B16 Damptronic coilover kit, I'd definitely consider replacing the shocks. However, since this was an inexpensive "in the meantime" option, I figured I'd make the best of it and share my experience.

One thing to note for your situation is that since you trimmed the factory bump stops, which have been stated to be stiffer than the Dinan upgraded bump stops, the crashing may not be directly addressed with the trim alone. Things may differ slightly for your specific vehicle though.

Based on the anecdotes so far in this thread, I'd wager that the softer, more linear bump stops that Dinan offers for my car would be a better match, offsetting the stiffer/lower ride with the Sport springs. Was hoping someone who's running that setup would chime in, and I appreciate you sharing your experience here as well!

[Randy Johnson]

Looking to replace all 4 bumpstops on my f36. They are torn and dry rotted. Is there a complete oem set available somewhere?

[SantaEugence]

Originally Posted by bcuz_b58

I have only the Sport kit. If it weren't for my plans to pick up a B16 Damptronic coilover kit, I'd definitely consider replacing the shocks. However, since this was an inexpensive "in the meantime" option, I figured I'd make the best of it and share my experience.

One thing to note for your situation is that since you trimmed the factory bump stops, which have been stated to be stiffer than the Dinan upgraded bump stops, the crashing may not be directly addressed with the trim alone. Things may differ slightly for your specific vehicle though.

Based on the anecdotes so far in this thread, I'd wager that the softer, more linear bump stops that Dinan offers for my car would be a better match, offsetting the stiffer/lower ride with the Sport springs. Was hoping someone who's running that setup would chime in, and I appreciate you sharing your experience here as well!

Makes sense, same kit I'm looking at when my shocks give up on life.

Honestly I think the HR springs just drop too much for the standard shocks no matter what bump stops you went for, that being said good luck and post how you get on. I did a lot of searching when I first started getting the crashing and couldn't find a definitive answer on whether bump stops helped on that combination

[uhdimzy]

Would the F8x bump stops pair well with H&R Sport Springs?

And are the bumps stops in the Dinan kit available to purchase from BMW? Havent seen any part numbers