[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Darkiedm4

I pass by installer tomorrow i will ask

Any word from your installer?

[PeterPure]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Any word from your installer?

He said he used standard bmw tools.

[cncmastr]

Any reason why this wouldn't fit a 328i xDrive?

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by cncmastr

Any reason why this wouldn't fit a 328i xDrive?

For some reason I think the differential for the 6 cylinder cars has a different ratio. Visit a parts site to confirm whether or not the stock part numbers are the same.

[Gio72]

Originally Posted by Big Nodge

That's great to hear. I've been really curious about this too but haven't been able to find much info yet. It's been hard to even determine with 100% certainty that the f30 m perf lsd is compatible with the xDrive.

Yes, absolutely compatible with 35i xdrive! My friend installed it by a Bmw Dealer
He is very satisfied with the result: now its 435i xdrive is more oversteering and gives him more fun in driving!

[Polo08816]

Unfortunate still no DIY write up for this yet...

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Darkiedm4

He said he used standard bmw tools.

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Unfortunate still no DIY write up for this yet...

I've attached a PDF that hopefully includes all the special tools, procedures, and torque specifications from ISTAD v4.x for anyone who is interested in this as a DIY.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Darkiedm4

He said he used standard bmw tools.

A poster in the 2 Series forums suggested this tool might work:

http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showp...55&postcount=6

http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?par...MLYaAngf8P8HAQ

I'll let you guys know if it does...

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

A poster in the 2 Series forums suggested this tool might work:

http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showp...55&postcount=6

http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?par...MLYaAngf8P8HAQ

I'll let you guys know if it does...

Test fitted the Bavauto CV axle pry bar. It's a good fit. It'll probably work although not as well as the $800 BMW prybar. The BMW pry bar will spare that black plastic shield while the Bavauto CV axle pry bar may not.



Test fitted the HP Autosport differential tool.



I still have not found a good alternative for special tool 33 5 125 which is used to tap the CV axle into the rear differential.

[Polo08816]

I did some more digging and it seems tool "33 5 125" is part of a set of tools "33 5 120". "33 5 120" translates into BMW Part # 83 30 0 495 851 which is available on getbmwparts for about $400.

[Polo08816]

Updated PDF based on ISTAD v4.3.21 and includes:

- ISTAD special tools required particulary to remove/install output shafts
- BMW KSD labor/time estimates

[Polo08816]

Updated procedures to include more pre-requisite steps as well as removing/replacing rubber mounts/bushings for rear differential (front and rear), more KSD labor time, etc.

* Unknown tools on page 71 and 74.
33 0 031
33 0 032
33 0 035
33 0 036
33 4 275

*33 0 3x presumed to be part of complete set 330030 but I'm not able to find any info about that.

[Polo08816]

I drove my sleepy self to the Auto Crafts Shop at a nearby military installation at 7am in the morning. BRRRR! It was 11F. I was the first (and only) person to arrive around 7am. Yes, I know… I’m crazy… or so I’m told.



I had the opportunity to do a more thorough reconnaissance of this rear diff removal/replacement procedure this weekend. This is a partial dry-run for a future diff swap. I’m still deciding between the BMW M Performance Limited Slip Differential (LSD) and another aftermarket clutch based LSD. In the end, I probably see myself going with the BMW M Performance LSD. I will probably keep the original final drive in case I would like to use it as a core unit for aftermarket clutch based LSD in the future.


Swapping out brake pads (equipped with M Sport Brake Option)

I began by swapping out F80/82 M3/M4 brake pads (OEM - Textar) for my original M Sport Brake Pads (OEM - Jurid). It’s been getting colder and I prefer to have a bit less brake dust in the months when I’m can’t wash the car outside as often. Brake fluid remains the same with Castrol SRF.
I’ll miss the better feel of the M3/M4 brake pads. It feels more linear and provides greater braking force at higher speeds, but they’ll be back in action sometime in the spring in anticipation of more AutoX and HPDEs. I always use Permatex Ceramic Extreme Lubricant and never have an issue with noise with hotter/more abrasive pads if applied properly.




Now we begin to remove components to get better eyes on the entire propeller shaft… I simply followed the procedures in the PDF I have attached with this post.

Removing center chassis reinforcement plate.



Removing the complete exhaust. I’m not a fan of cutting the exhaust so I decided to remove the complete exhaust. You’ll need another person to help you (my GF who has a 2016 X3 35i). You’ll also want to have 2 jack stands to support the exhaust.



Slackening (and then eventually removing) center exhaust mount. Requires E10 socket (Inverted Torx bit)



Slackening (and then eventually removing) mounting brackets at axle back (muffler) section.





Loosening the V-band that mates/seals the downpipe to the catalytic converter section of the complete exhaust system. This takes a bit of effort as the bolt and nut are heavily rusted. This is normal. I was able to do it with a standard 3/8” drive ratchet. You cannot re-use this part. It’s one time use which means you better seat it properly when you are re-installing the exhaust.



Exhaust removed.



Once you remove the exhaust, remove the heat shields. You can probably do the LSD removal/install by removing the heat shield furthest to the rear, but I removed both heat shields because I wanted to get a good look at the transmission, transmission mounts, flexible disc, and forward portion of propeller shaft as well.





Front section of propeller shaft.



Close up of transmission (ZF 8HP45) mounts and flexible disc which connects the transmission and front portion of the propeller shaft. They seem to be in excellent condition considering my car has 72,000 miles on the odometer.



Center mount and central section of propeller shaft. When removing the propeller shaft from the rear diff, you’ll need to pay particular attention to the installation and bolt tightening sequences. I believe you will slacken (but not remove) the center mount in order to allow the propeller shaft to belt slightly at the joint, but be careful not to bend it too much or else it will damage the propeller shaft.



ISTAD also says when you need to tighten the insert nut where the rear differential and propeller shaft meet, you will need to brace this so that it does not rotate when you are torqueing down the insert nut. I suppose BMW wants you to place a small metal shaft through the joint and brace it against the chassis. I was initially wary of doing this as it might damage the joint, but I tried to rotate the propeller shaft (parking brake disengaged) and it didn’t budge. Perhaps there is already sufficient internal resistance with respect to the propeller shaft, rear differential, and transmission that the specified bracing method is acceptable.






And we’re finally to the most important part… the rear differential.

Remove the vibration absorber at the rear of the rear differential/subframe mount.



Disconnect the propeller shaft. HP Autosport makes a tool to remove the insert nut with a 1/2" hole. It allows you to place/connect a 1/2" drive torque wrench. The BMW specified tool doesn’t have this functionality.





Release the center mount that you previously slackened.

Tie up propeller shaft to somewhere. Don’t bend the propeller shaft excessively.

Now you need to remove the output shafts from the rear differential.

Here’s a CV axle tool from BavAuto that will probably work in removing the axles.





But the main issue is pressing the output shafts back into the rear differential. With this new BMW design, there’s nowhere on the output shaft to tap to put it back into the rear differential. They require you use a special tool that costs about $400.






Here’s few pictures of the rear differential in place.





While I was in here, I wondered how much work it would be to replace the rubber mounts/bushings for the rear differential. There are 3: 2 front and 1 rear.

Front side of rear differential with 2 rubber mounts.



The front rubber mounts/bushings aren’t bad. They require a special tool. You can find these in the attached PDF.

The rear rubber mount is the one that may require a lot of work. ISTAD Rheingold lists dropping the entire rear subframe in order to replace this rubber mount/bushing. I was scouring the internet to find any tool that would be able to remove/install this rubber mount/bushing without having the drop the rear subframe. I’ve found some similar tools at Koch Tools and Baum Tools. Unfortunately, they stated they were designed for larger F-chassis BMWs such as the 5, 6, and Series. I wondered why these chassis vehicles did not require removing the rear subframe. Well, based on what I saw today, it would appear as if the fuel tank prevents a tool from either withdrawing or installing a rubber mount/bushing due to limited distance. See fuel tank at the top portion of the picture.



That's it for now folks...

[M-terkait]

so not any independent shop can do lsd installs ? i see alot of special tools required..

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by M-terkait

so not any independent shop can do lsd installs ? i see alot of special tools required..

I went to a BMW independent shop nearby where I live and even they did not have the tools to do it. They could get the tools but only if they expected to do this type of install a few times.

[M-terkait]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

I went to a BMW independent shop nearby where I live and even they did not have the tools to do it. They could get the tools but only if they expected to do this type of install a few times.

so its still doable without the tools

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by M-terkait

so its still doable without the tools

It's possible.

The challenge I foresee is getting the axle shafts back into the differential. It should not take a substantial amount of force to seat it properly, but based on the tool and the design of the axle shaft, there's no good place to strike it with a rubber mallet to seat it if it so needs to be.

A possible work around is to use a https://www.fastenal.com/products/de...ttr02:^3%22$|~. But I haven't been able to use a caliper to make the measurements yet.

[M-terkait]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

It's possible.

The challenge I foresee is getting the axle shafts back into the differential. It should not take a substantial amount of force to seat it properly, but based on the tool and the design of the axle shaft, there's no good place to strike it with a rubber mallet to seat it if it so needs to be.

A possible work around is to use a https://www.fastenal.com/products/de...ttr02:^3%22$|~. But I haven't been able to use a caliper to make the measurements yet.

I'll probably have the subframe out because i'll be (shop) doing superpro bushings same time so i think it could be done easier that way

[Rick4345]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

I drove my sleepy self to the Auto Crafts Shop at a nearby military installation at 7am in the morning. BRRRR! It was 11F. I was the first (and only) person to arrive around 7am. Yes, I know… I’m crazy… or so I’m told.



I had the opportunity to do a more thorough reconnaissance of this rear diff removal/replacement procedure this weekend. This is a partial dry-run for a future diff swap. I’m still deciding between the BMW M Performance Limited Slip Differential (LSD) and another aftermarket clutch based LSD. In the end, I probably see myself going with the BMW M Performance LSD. I will probably keep the original final drive in case I would like to use it as a core unit for aftermarket clutch based LSD in the future.


Swapping out brake pads (equipped with M Sport Brake Option)

I began by swapping out F80/82 M3/M4 brake pads (OEM - Textar) for my original M Sport Brake Pads (OEM - Jurid). It’s been getting colder and I prefer to have a bit less brake dust in the months when I’m can’t wash the car outside as often. Brake fluid remains the same with Castrol SRF.
I’ll miss the better feel of the M3/M4 brake pads. It feels more linear and provides greater braking force at higher speeds, but they’ll be back in action sometime in the spring in anticipation of more AutoX and HPDEs. I always use Permatex Ceramic Extreme Lubricant and never have an issue with noise with hotter/more abrasive pads if applied properly.




Now we begin to remove components to get better eyes on the entire propeller shaft… I simply followed the procedures in the PDF I have attached with this post.

Removing center chassis reinforcement plate.



Removing the complete exhaust. I’m not a fan of cutting the exhaust so I decided to remove the complete exhaust. You’ll need another person to help you (my GF who has a 2016 X3 35i). You’ll also want to have 2 jack stands to support the exhaust.



Slackening (and then eventually removing) center exhaust mount. Requires E10 socket (Inverted Torx bit)



Slackening (and then eventually removing) mounting brackets at axle back (muffler) section.





Loosening the V-band that mates/seals the downpipe to the catalytic converter section of the complete exhaust system. This takes a bit of effort as the bolt and nut are heavily rusted. This is normal. I was able to do it with a standard 3/8” drive ratchet. You cannot re-use this part. It’s one time use which means you better seat it properly when you are re-installing the exhaust.



Exhaust removed.



Once you remove the exhaust, remove the heat shields. You can probably do the LSD removal/install by removing the heat shield furthest to the rear, but I removed both heat shields because I wanted to get a good look at the transmission, transmission mounts, flexible disc, and forward portion of propeller shaft as well.





Front section of propeller shaft.



Close up of transmission (ZF 8HP45) mounts and flexible disc which connects the transmission and front portion of the propeller shaft. They seem to be in excellent condition considering my car has 72,000 miles on the odometer.



Center mount and central section of propeller shaft. When removing the propeller shaft from the rear diff, you’ll need to pay particular attention to the installation and bolt tightening sequences. I believe you will slacken (but not remove) the center mount in order to allow the propeller shaft to belt slightly at the joint, but be careful not to bend it too much or else it will damage the propeller shaft.



ISTAD also says when you need to tighten the insert nut where the rear differential and propeller shaft meet, you will need to brace this so that it does not rotate when you are torqueing down the insert nut. I suppose BMW wants you to place a small metal shaft through the joint and brace it against the chassis. I was initially wary of doing this as it might damage the joint, but I tried to rotate the propeller shaft (parking brake disengaged) and it didn’t budge. Perhaps there is already sufficient internal resistance with respect to the propeller shaft, rear differential, and transmission that the specified bracing method is acceptable.






And we’re finally to the most important part… the rear differential.

Remove the vibration absorber at the rear of the rear differential/subframe mount.



Disconnect the propeller shaft. HP Autosport makes a tool to remove the insert nut with a 1/2" hole. It allows you to place/connect a 1/2" drive torque wrench. The BMW specified tool doesn’t have this functionality.





Release the center mount that you previously slackened.

Tie up propeller shaft to somewhere. Don’t bend the propeller shaft excessively.

Now you need to remove the output shafts from the rear differential.

Here’s a CV axle tool from BavAuto that will probably work in removing the axles.





But the main issue is pressing the output shafts back into the rear differential. With this new BMW design, there’s nowhere on the output shaft to tap to put it back into the rear differential. They require you use a special tool that costs about $400.






Here’s few pictures of the rear differential in place.





While I was in here, I wondered how much work it would be to replace the rubber mounts/bushings for the rear differential. There are 3: 2 front and 1 rear.

Front side of rear differential with 2 rubber mounts.



The front rubber mounts/bushings aren’t bad. They require a special tool. You can find these in the attached PDF.

The rear rubber mount is the one that may require a lot of work. ISTAD Rheingold lists dropping the entire rear subframe in order to replace this rubber mount/bushing. I was scouring the internet to find any tool that would be able to remove/install this rubber mount/bushing without having the drop the rear subframe. I’ve found some similar tools at Koch Tools and Baum Tools. Unfortunately, they stated they were designed for larger F-chassis BMWs such as the 5, 6, and Series. I wondered why these chassis vehicles did not require removing the rear subframe. Well, based on what I saw today, it would appear as if the fuel tank prevents a tool from either withdrawing or installing a rubber mount/bushing due to limited distance. See fuel tank at the top portion of the picture.



That's it for now folks...

Nice job!! The auto shop was always my favorite place. I don't think I ever had cleaner and better maintained cars than when I was in the Air Force.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

I went to a BMW independent shop nearby where I live and even they did not have the tools to do it. They could get the tools but only if they expected to do this type of install a few times.

Originally Posted by M-terkait

so its still doable without the tools

Originally Posted by Polo08816

It's possible.

The challenge I foresee is getting the axle shafts back into the differential. It should not take a substantial amount of force to seat it properly, but based on the tool and the design of the axle shaft, there's no good place to strike it with a rubber mallet to seat it if it so needs to be.

A possible work around is to use a https://www.fastenal.com/products/de...ttr02:^3%22$|~. But I haven't been able to use a caliper to make the measurements yet.

I was in the auto skills center to check out (yet again!) another special tool. So you may need this special tool to remove the vibration damper.

It calls for a Torx E10 socket. The problem is the standard Torx E10 socket that uses a 3/8" drive is too long. It won't clear the fuel tank which is immediately after the vibration damper. I even tried using a serpentine belt tool with standard Torx E10 socket to clear the fuel tank and was not successful.

The BMW special tool is a Torx E10 socket that uses a ring spanner to turn it. It should clear the fuel tank right behind the differential/rear subframe.

Courtesy of getBMWparts doing the lookup for me:

BMW tool #: 2 240 515
83302240515 $10.27 – not in stock, only available from BMW out of Germany (2-3 weeks to arrive here once ordered)

[Dog Face Pony Soldier]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

I went to a BMW independent shop nearby where I live and even they did not have the tools to do it. They could get the tools but only if they expected to do this type of install a few times.

Polo please don't read this post as any criticism of you. Thanks for contributing.

The salesperson in me thinks this shop's approach is nuts. How much do these tools cost? Whatever the price, you build it into the price of the job and ALWAYS SAY YES. Let the customer object to the price but don't dare say you won't do the job because you aren't capable of doing it! Sheesh.

The mechanic in me thinks this shop's approach is surprising. Usually mechanics like tools. Step the fu(k up and build your toolset to be the professional technician you profess to be.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by glennQNYC

Polo please don't read this post as any criticism of you. Thanks for contributing.

The salesperson in me thinks this shop's approach is nuts. How much do these tools cost? Whatever the price, you build it into the price of the job and ALWAYS SAY YES. Let the customer object to the price but don't dare say you won't do the job because you aren't capable of doing it! Sheesh.

The mechanic in me thinks this shop's approach is surprising. Usually mechanics like tools. Step the fu(k up and build your toolset to be the professional technician you profess to be.

I ended up buying the tools myself.

33 5 120 = 83300495851
2 240 515 = 83302240515

Total: $450 for the tools

The Torx E10 socket is a special order from Germany so it'll take 2-3 weeks to get here.

I plan on doing this install myself. Might consider selling the tools used in the classified later if someone's interested in DIY'ing.




It was a bit strange. I looked through ISTAD and that 33 5 120 is basically required to removal nearly all the rear diffs in F chassis BMWs with the exception of that used in the X5 M/ X6 M.