[ctbear]

Originally Posted by ScottSinger

Mobil 1 5W40 now meets or exceed LL-o1

https://www.mobil.com/English-US/Pas...etic-Euro-5W40

Do they sell this at walmart?

[emfollin]

Doesn’t appear to be sold anywhere. Their link on the website states no retailers found. A search on google comes up empty too.

[Mikewill233]

Hello, I got my engine replaced December 2018 and now the oil replacement light came up on my IDrive, BMW suggested I buy 0w-30, just wondered what would you guys suggest? 0w-40? Castrol? thanks

[emfollin]

Walmart just started selling long life-01 approved 5w-40 Castrol Edge oil for like $23 for 5quarts. Would recommend that.

[Mikewill233]

Originally Posted by emfollin

Walmart just started selling long life-01 approved 5w-40 Castrol Edge oil for like $23 for 5quarts. Would recommend that.

Thank you for your reply, I am in the UK, what's the differences between 0w-30 and 0w-40? my engine is brand-new and someone said for new engine is best to stick to 0w-30 rather than 5w-30 is that true? thanks

[emfollin]

Can’t help with that. I think your bmw standard is LL-04 which are different oils. That might be 0w-30/40.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Mikewill233

Hello, I got my engine replaced December 2018 and now the oil replacement light came up on my IDrive, BMW suggested I buy 0w-30, just wondered what would you guys suggest? 0w-40? Castrol? thanks

Castrol European Formula in the black jug used to say BMW LongLife-01 until Castrol stopped paying BMW a licensing fee. Same oil though. I use 0W-40 because that's what my local Walmart sells at <$25. I get Mann filter kits ~$9 from Amazon

[AspektUSA]

Originally Posted by Mikewill233

Thank you for your reply, I am in the UK, what's the differences between 0w-30 and 0w-40? my engine is brand-new and someone said for new engine is best to stick to 0w-30 rather than 5w-30 is that true? thanks

The first number doesn't matter if you live in a warm climate.

In Texas it hardly ever gets to freezing temps, so there's no problem running 5w-10w really.

A Liqui Moly rep says it's better to use thinner oils when the engine is new, and as it wears go to thicker.

So 0w-20 -> 0w-30 (50,000mi) -> 0w-40 (100,00mi +) if coming from brand new and remaining stock would be natural progression for an engine that gives an allowance for 0w-20 to 5w-40.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by AspektUSA

The first number doesn't matter if you live in a warm climate.

In Texas it hardly ever gets to freezing temps, so there's no problem running 5w-10w really.

A Liqui Moly rep says it's better to use thinner oils when the engine is new, and as it wears go to thicker.

So 0w-20 -> 0w-30 (50,000mi) -> 0w-40 (100,00mi +) if coming from brand new and remaining stock would be natural progression for an engine that gives an allowance for 0w-20 to 5w-40.

Um, i would not run a thinner oil just because the engine is new.

The tolerances and engine specs are specifically matched to a given weight of oil. There is no break in on bearings, for example. The only reason you would increase in oil thickness/weight is because you have wear that should not have occurred in the first place (and are compensating with thicker oil to maintain lubricity and oil pressure), or you are doing something like tracking the car where you want a thicker oil to mitigate the thinning that occurs at higher temps.

You should use the weight of oil that the OEM/engine calls for. Oil is one of the most important things for engine longevity so i would not cheap out on unapproved brands or formulas to try and save like $50 per year.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by AspektUSA

A Liqui Moly rep says it's better to use thinner oils when the engine is new, and as it wears go to thicker.

True, within reason. A new engine has tighter tolerances, so a thinner oil can better coat the surfaces. As the engine gets older and the metal wears away thicker oil can better fill the gap between parts. But the over riding reason why BMW went from 5w-30 to 0w-20 was for better fuel economy. The engines hadn't changed. Many dealers will put 0w-20 into cars that were originally recommended 5w-30 so they only have to stock one oil type. LL doesn't mean anything, other than the manufacturer meets BMW requirements, and pays BMW for the right to call it LL. The number is the year it was first used, as in 2001 or 2014. I use LiquiMoly because it's a superior synthetic lubricant. I stayed with 5w-30 and my mileage with it went up by 2 MPG.

[AspektUSA]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Um, i would not run a thinner oil just because the engine is new.

The tolerances and engine specs are specifically matched to a given weight of oil. There is no break in on bearings, for example. The only reason you would increase in oil thickness/weight is because you have wear that should not have occurred in the first place (and are compensating with thicker oil to maintain lubricity and oil pressure), or you are doing something like tracking the car where you want a thicker oil to mitigate the thinning that occurs at higher temps.

You should use the weight of oil that the OEM/engine calls for. Oil is one of the most important things for engine longevity so i would not cheap out on unapproved brands or formulas to try and save like $50 per year.

Sure, but the B58 for example allows for 0w-20 all the way to 5w-40 in the manual; hence my caveats.

Tracking/racing/extreme conditions are always exceptions to the rule.

12:00 mark they give the advice for the oil weight over the lifetime of an engine.

Originally Posted by Billfitz

True, within reason. A new engine has tighter tolerances, so a thinner oil can better coat the surfaces. As the engine gets older and the metal wears away thicker oil can better fill the gap between parts. But the over riding reason why BMW went from 5w-30 to 0w-20 was for better fuel economy. The engines hadn't changed. Many dealers will put 0w-20 into cars that were originally recommended 5w-30 so they only have to stock one oil type. LL doesn't mean anything, other than the manufacturer meets BMW requirements, and pays BMW for the right to call it LL. The number is the year it was first used, as in 2001 or 2014. I use LiquiMoly because it's a superior synthetic lubricant. I stayed with 5w-30 and my mileage with it went up by 2 MPG.

The opposite side of that coin, is that the 0w-20 reaches the lube points much more quickly at start up - something that's important for stop/start.

The video above the Liqui Moly guy literally says oils weight doesn't matter much any more, as it's pretty much a just a conveyance for additives, detergents, stabilizers now.

Your brand of oil doesn't matter much, just that it meets spec and you change it regularly. Considering Shell probably has 10x the R&D budget of Liqui Moly, I'm sure they're not just banging rocks together over there.

[Billfitz]

The faster heat rise of 0w-20 is significant at below zero temperatures, otherwise not so much. With LiquiMoly you know that it's very different from run of the mill synthetics. It doesn't even feel like oil. I have a bit of experience with oil, having used Mobil 1 starting in 1974, and lived where 20 degrees is a balmy winter's day for longer than that.

[F32Fleet]

FYI. BMW updated the LL01 specification. It is listed as LL01(2018).

https://online.lubrizol.com/relperftool/pc.html

[AspektUSA]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

The faster heat rise of 0w-20 is significant at below zero temperatures, otherwise not so much. With LiquiMoly you know that it's very different from run of the mill synthetics. It doesn't even feel like oil. I have a bit of experience with oil, having used Mobil 1 starting in 1974, and lived where 20 degrees is a balmy winter's day for longer than that.

Funny you should mention Mobil 1, as here is a video of M1 putting 1 million miles on an E30 with basically zero engine wear:

Liqui Moly is a fine brand, but keep in mind they're just buying in their base oil and adding their 11 herbs and spices.

Companies like Shell are doing things like digging the oil out of the ground, refining the oil themselves, and running them in vehicles like Ferraris.
Their GTL (pureplus) products are genuinely interesting, and are the biggest innovation in motor oil for the last 50 years - even if the GTL process itself isn't new.

Your brand of oil doesn't matter, so long as you are consistent about intervals and it meets specification.

[Billfitz]

Mobil 1 has been used and recommended by Porsche since 1996, so it can't be all that bad in a BMW. I use Molygen, because one the herbs it contains is UV dye. Knowing that an oil leak is a matter of when, not if, on a BMW, when mine happens I'll be ready to find the source.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Mobil 1 has been used and recommended by Porsche since 1996, so it can't be all that bad in a BMW. I use Molygen, because one the herbs it contains is UV dye. Knowing that an oil leak is a matter of when, not if, on a BMW, when mine happens I'll be ready to find the source.

remember the dye is only active for a fixed period of time.

[IraHayes]

Originally Posted by Mikewill233

Thank you for your reply, I am in the UK, what's the differences between 0w-30 and 0w-40? my engine is brand-new and someone said for new engine is best to stick to 0w-30 rather than 5w-30 is that true? thanks

I switched from a 5w-40 to a 0w-40. Not any reason in particular for me switching from the 5w to the 0w other than to "try it out." One thing I did notice is that my engine actually reaches operating temp several minutes more quickly, which I guess is the point with a 0w vs 5w, I just didn't think it would be a noticeable difference. As someone else mentioned though, if you don't live somewhere where the temps reach freezing, the difference between a 0w vs a 5w are going to be more or less inconsequential.

I use 40 over 30 because I live in southern California where temperatures in excess of 100°F in the summer are the norm, as is sitting in bumper to bumper traffic for hours on end. If you make it a habit to flog your car pretty often, you are also better off with the 40. I also like the idea of the thicker oil for a little added protection of the turbo bearings. I do a fair amount of uphill driving where my work takes me several times/month, so it gives me a little more peace of mind when the turbo is really being put through its paces.

[rocksnap]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Interesting... sold at Walmart?

Sold at Walmart. A 5q jug for less than $23. Made from natural gas.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/oats.packsh...efault-usa.png

[123Britt]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Mobil 1 has been used and recommended by Porsche since 1996, so it can't be all that bad in a BMW. I use Molygen, because one the herbs it contains is UV dye. Knowing that an oil leak is a matter of when, not if, on a BMW, when mine happens I'll be ready to find the source.

Thinking Molygen is good and a neat product for checking out leaks - but the NOACK above BMW LL-01 Limits caused me to NOT use it on my N54 or Current N55.

The PP Euro 5-40 has the lower NOACK similar to BMW Branded oils.

[raymondlo84]

They took out Mobil 1 for no good explanation?

-ray

Originally Posted by BReardon58

This is an old list I came across, but should still be valid.

BMW Long-life rating LL-01 Approved Synthetic Oils for the US Market:

• Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30
• Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
• Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
• Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30

I have been using the Castrol Euro Formula 0W-30 in a few different cars for a few years and plan to keep using it in my 335i.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by raymondlo84

They took out Mobil 1 for no good explanation?

-ray

BMW updated their spec LL01(2018) and apparently M1 made the business decision not to recertify.

We can't be all that surprised when BMW a few years ago moved it's fleet to "FE" and 20w oils.

LL01(2018) is not a FE spec.

[JimKden]

Amsoil has 0W-20 per BMW LL-17FE+ as of today.

https://www.amsoil.com/p/sae-0w-20-l...-afe/?zo=36101