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      01-13-2021, 09:07 AM   #375
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Just a hair shy of 150,000 miles now - and I got the dreaded "improper exhaust fluid" error... It gave me 201 miles to no-start, and I drive 120 miles round trip to work...

Got it back home with 155 miles left; driving my Mini until I can fix it...
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      01-13-2021, 01:38 PM   #376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uber Commuter View Post
Just a hair shy of 150,000 miles now - and I got the dreaded "improper exhaust fluid" error... It gave me 201 miles to no-start, and I drive 120 miles round trip to work...

Got it back home with 155 miles left; driving my Mini until I can fix it...
In your specific situation, if you have ISTA or similar, you can reset the SCR adaptations and it will go back to no countdown for a while, giving you time to drain and refill. It will come back as it reviews the adaptation measurements, but at least it gives you time.
Let me know if you need extra help.
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      01-13-2021, 02:06 PM   #377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
In your specific situation, if you have ISTA or similar, you can reset the SCR adaptations and it will go back to no countdown for a while, giving you time to drain and refill. It will come back as it reviews the adaptation measurements, but at least it gives you time.
Let me know if you need extra help.
Good to know but I only have Carly unfortunately. In reading up on this, it seems it could be the NOx sensors or the metering valve in addition to possibly being actual bad fluid; so I'm debating on where to start.

With how much I normally drive, the DEF is never in my tank longer than 3 months anyway so fluid going bad was never a concern. This year has been a bit different obviously...
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      01-13-2021, 02:08 PM   #378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
In your specific situation, if you have ISTA or similar, you can reset the SCR adaptations and it will go back to no countdown for a while, giving you time to drain and refill. It will come back as it reviews the adaptation measurements, but at least it gives you time.
Let me know if you need extra help.
Didn't mean to hit enter yet lol...

What requirements are there for ISTA? I am quite familiar with coding software and have VCDS for Volkswagens (as well as a CAN-USB cable), but I have no idea if ISTA needs a specific cable, or just software, etc?

Thanks!
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      01-13-2021, 03:49 PM   #379
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This has happened to me after putting a more questionable fluid inside, so in my case I can confirm it wasn't the NOx sensors.

Send me a PM with your email or something and I can see if I can help a bit. You do not want it to get to zero.
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      02-24-2021, 10:54 AM   #380
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Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
I wonder what the proportion of T-case failures between square vs staggered wheel setups is.
Don't want to hijack this thread but what advantage is there to staggerered wheel setups. I would think the inconvenience of buying tires, not being able to rotate them easily, etc., would really make this not a great idea. What say you, FaRKle? P.S. I'm a fan of your YouTubes!
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      03-04-2021, 05:12 PM   #381
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All Two's

Bought new in December 2014 with 4 miles.
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      03-05-2021, 12:10 AM   #382
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Originally Posted by Chukker View Post
Don't want to hijack this thread but what advantage is there to staggerered wheel setups. I would think the inconvenience of buying tires, not being able to rotate them easily, etc., would really make this not a great idea. What say you, FaRKle? P.S. I'm a fan of your YouTubes!
Staggered is advantageous when one end of the car needs more grip than the other, like 911s. This can be due to weight distribution or lots of power at one axle. For these F3x platforms, if it's a street car there's really no benefit. Maybe for 35/40i cars that are putting down good power to the rear.
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      03-05-2021, 01:31 PM   #383
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Originally Posted by mrgolf100 View Post
Bought new in December 2014 with 4 miles.
Have you had to get a new t-case yet? I had the flex disc recall done and the dealer said the t-case was fine but I get some odd slipping sometimes coming out of a low speed corner. I just hit 99k miles on my '14. Hoping to see at least 200k with the car no major issues fingers croseed. I still have CPO wrap until 125k....
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      03-05-2021, 02:10 PM   #384
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t case

If you go back a bit through the threads i had 3 new transfer cases in first 120k but none since then. When i hit a large pothole i get a weird slipping as well that feels like it's transmission related but doesn't seem to make any noise or be an issue. Never changed tranny fluid so it's probably related? not really sure, only happens every now and then.
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      03-06-2021, 03:21 PM   #385
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2014 BMW F30 328D N47D20 (U.S. N47TU) Diesel High Mileage Report. - 144,000 miles

Original owner, CA purchase in Fall of 2013 and moved to Texas with 38k in the Spring of 2014. As of 02/2021 has 144k ODO. It still idles and accelerates smoothly with power to the top of the tach. The GA8 auto transmission still gets it. Following BMW provided 9k service intervals with Castrol oil changes until 50k. Since then I've been using Liqui Moly 5W30 Top Tec synthetic oils every 5-6k: 4200 (LM2011 5L), 4605 (LM2244 5L) with Mahle, Hengst or BMW OE filters. Will begin next oil change using Top Tec 4600 (LM20448 5L) BMW Longlife-04 approved. The LM tech rep (yep, he answered my email) says 4600 is newest BMW LL-04 spec, including diesels.

I’m a DIY mechanic and do all routine maintenance. What has needed repaired/replaced along the way? Diesel particulate sensor @65k; EGR @95k; integrated recirculation cooler with intake plenum @105k (had a thermal event melting the intake plenum that caused some torching); covered by BMW recall (#18V755000) under federal emissions warranty at their cost, $7600. Thank-you BMW! New turbocharger @125k, $2800. OE brake pads/rotors@(85k (hydraulic fluid flushed 85k and 125k). Brakes replaced with Zimmerman rotors and Akebono ceramic pads, $485. No pedal fade yet. New upper/lower coolant hoses at 105k; serpentine belt at 85k and 140k.

However, recently the engine has developed a slight oil leak - residue coming from the rear of the engine valve cover gasket (BMW 11128511814 - $30) onto the CAT, which makes it a little smokey at traffic signals unless I wipe the residue from the head every 80-100 miles. In addition to replacing the engine valve cover gasket, I'll also replace the overflow oil line (BMW 13537823408 - $87) using BMW AIR repair instruction: # 11 12 000, R&R Cylinder Head Cover (N47D20 K/U/O/T 1); # 13 53 158, R&R Fuel Injection Pressure Accumulator; and # 13 53 170, R&R Fuel Injector Pressure Lines. I'm not very excited about messing with the fuel injectors at $600 each.

How it is driven and performs: High speeds long hauls on Texas highways, the F30 chassis provides a rock-solid platform for the N47TU. The forced draft oil burner (diesel) breaths easily all day long in 8th gear at 2250 rpm and 85 mph. In Texas, traffic school is good every 12 months up to 25 mph over or 95 mph max. If a State Trooper makes a vehicle stop, expect a citation to pay the judge in that county, plus 20 over is $146. Try the 130 Toll Road south-east of Austin. Just south of the COTA race track the posted speed limit is 85 mph to San Antonio. Beware of mass feral hog crossings!
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      03-06-2021, 04:35 PM   #386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiddad View Post
Original owner, CA purchase in Fall of 2013 and moved to Texas with 38k in the Spring of 2014. As of 02/2021 has 144k ODO.
Great info!

What happened to need a turbo replacement?

There's a couple other Texan 328d owners that just replaced their valve cover gaskets recently. I think around the 120k mark.
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      03-06-2021, 09:58 PM   #387
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Texas here, amd I recently did my valve cover gasket. You'll need to wash the exhaust manifold well to stop the smoking.

Injectors at $600???
They're $230 a piece. They pull out by hand, then you clean the bore, grease the side of it, put a new copper crush washer (Bosch at $0.90 each), and install back.

Turbo replacement at 125k is unusual.
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      03-10-2021, 09:12 PM   #388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgolf100 View Post
Bought new in December 2014 with 4 miles.
So impressive!
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      04-08-2021, 09:37 PM   #389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
Texas here, amd I recently did my valve cover gasket. You'll need to wash the exhaust manifold well to stop the smoking.

Injectors at $600???
They're $230 a piece. They pull out by hand, then you clean the bore, grease the side of it, put a new copper crush washer (Bosch at $0.90 each), and install back.

Turbo replacement at 125k is unusual.
I had my turbo replaced at around 85k.... Was getting an exhaust smell in the cabin and the wastegate was determined to be the culprit so the turbo was replaed. It still smelt like exhaust after that and recently it was determined to be the EGR Cooler gasket to the tune of $590 even though they had done the EGR Recall.... extended warranty has coveered everything thus far. Now I get the feeling my T-Case is gonna take a crap or the front diff but the dealer is convinced the noise I'm hearing is my snow tires... Just rolled over 100k miles yesterday.
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      06-10-2021, 01:23 PM   #390
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After I got through the trials of EGR, O2 Sensors, giubos, transfer cases, etc., I have finally been able to begin putting some miles on my '15 328D - just rolled over 71,000 miles this month. I love this car - it's wonderful to drive and distinctive to look at (it's a touring - not like a zillion other Subaru Outbacks rolling around Colorado) and once again (at least for the moment) diesel is selling for slightly less than unleaded regular. I treated myself to new floormats and can't wait to take my next long trip to SoCal!
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      06-11-2021, 01:44 AM   #391
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Not a high-miler at all yet at 75k miles 320d (UK), but decided to do all the diff and t-case fluids the other day (t-case was replaced @ 32k miles) together with all new drain/fill plugs.

Fluid from the rear diff was dark
The front diff oil was worse and the drain plug had what looked like black sludge build up on it
Fill plug on front diff is the in the middle of the pic and rear diff plug is far right

Don't know why BMW calls this lifetime fluid but I would recommend to anyone to get this changed for longevity
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      06-11-2021, 10:49 AM   #392
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My cousins is sitting at 101k miles. 2014 F31. Drives and runs great except for the occasional drive train malfunction, which i am equating to a EGR valve that needs to be cleaned.
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      07-25-2021, 04:06 PM   #393
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500k?

99,000 miles. F30 2015 328d sport

Goal is to make it last me well into the 300k range, maybe 500k. Ive seen ford f350 trucks last into that range so I would like to think BMW can build an engine that can be on par with that.

Maintenance!!!


Out of curiosity does any one know if the 6 cylinder diesel fit in the F30 US spec, when it is time to swap into a new engine?
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      07-25-2021, 07:30 PM   #394
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Just hit 101k on my 2014. I know its not much for a lot of you, but I was proud. Here's to 200k
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      07-25-2021, 07:37 PM   #395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek.Hale View Post
99,000 miles. F30 2015 328d sport

Goal is to make it last me well into the 300k range, maybe 500k. Ive seen ford f350 trucks last into that range so I would like to think BMW can build an engine that can be on par with that.

Maintenance!!!


Out of curiosity does any one know if the 6 cylinder diesel fit in the F30 US spec, when it is time to swap into a new engine?
Yes it'll fit since it's put into the car in the EU markets. have to get the right size trans and drive shaft too. Have to raid a bunch of parts from a F10 535d.
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      08-13-2021, 06:10 PM   #396
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Have 157,000 miles and ready to call it quits. Just got the dreaded DPF code and have a NOX sensor I need to replace. Been reading that the DPF can't be cleaned and it's a big bill when the regen system starts to go. Not sure how much longer I should continue to roll the dice with a 700 mile per week commute. Would love to just to do a delete since I live in a friendly state. I saw the guy that posted that had 200k which is fantastic. Any others out there with DPF issues and rolling the dice?
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