[328iX]

Originally Posted by Grammarking

I cleaned it and broke the flips off.
I'll be at 200k by June

Is the warning light for the missing swirl flaps?

[Enabled]

New gasket with flaps is $52 or less.

[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by Grammarking

I cleaned it and broke the flips off.
I'll be at 200k by June

How did you clean it and how did it turn out?

[Grammarking]

Originally Posted by n00bkiller944

How did you clean it and how did it turn out?

Been on vacation.
Used a toothbrush and parts cleaner...
Buying new flaps/gasket and using a pressure washer this time.

[328iX]

Originally Posted by Grammarking

Been on vacation.
Used a toothbrush and parts cleaner...
Buying new flaps/gasket and using a pressure washer this time.

awesome

[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by Grammarking

Been on vacation.
Used a toothbrush and parts cleaner...
Buying new flaps/gasket and using a pressure washer this time.

After looking at your pictures I was thinking it might be easier to buy one. Then I saw the $1,158 dollar price tag from FCPeuro... Cleaning sounds better

[beanbaguk]

Blimey! I made 123k miles on my F31 320d before I sold it.

Full service history and other than new front wheel bearings and rear subframe bushes, the car was as good as new.

I'm now down to 14k on my new G30. I'm hoping to get at least 150k on it when it's finally sold in about four years or so.

[wicked510]

Add Rear AND front Differential Seal Failure & Front Tension Arm Bushing Failures @ 172,000

It almost makes sense just to replace the front wheel bearings (which I will do) on the xdrive setup since you need to remove the collar bolt to get the tension arm out anyway.

Guibo (universal disc/flex disc) is showing signs of wear.

So there you have it. My verdict is... If you are not a DIYer get out of the car before 150,000 miles.

[Jram328d]

Originally Posted by wicked510

Add Rear AND front Differential Seal Failure & Front Tension Arm Bushing Failures @ 172,000

It almost makes sense just to replace the front wheel bearings (which I will do) on the xdrive setup since you need to remove the collar bolt to get the tension arm out anyway.

Guibo (universal disc/flex disc) is showing signs of wear.

So there you have it. My verdict is... If you are not a DIYer get out of the car before 150,000 miles.

Any 328d's pushing close to or over 200k miles? I'm at 120k and thinking of getting rid of her based on the major repairs that could be looming as I get into the higher 100's.

[Troy27]

That's a diesel engine...the car will fall apart before the engine fails!

[Uber Commuter]

Had a check engine light; code through Carly says it's the EGR Cooler valve so recall part. Also have a worsening coolant leak that isn't leaving any fluids behind (nothing on the ground) so either the head gasket is failing or the EGR Cooler is failing and leaking coolant into the exhaust stream...

It's at BMW right now, 110,XXX miles on it, getting diagnosed. Once they tell me the failures and whether the recall covers the work; I'll probably be DIY'ing what remains.

[wicked510]

Originally Posted by Troy27

That's a diesel engine...the car will fall apart before the engine fails!

I think you are right. I plan on fixing it until the engine or transmission go. It's a little more than I bargained for here in the high mileage TBH

I posted a few photos so you all can see. Transmission pan leaked onto the drive shaft which spun fluid onto the heat/sound shield in the tunnel. Shield swelled up and rubs on tunnel now... There are two holes in the frame where I may be able to form some sort of bracket to hold the shield back.

When I replace the pan and fluid again (since it's just about time anyway) I am going with amsoil. I will report back if it fries the transmission

[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by wicked510

I think you are right. I plan on fixing it until the engine or transmission go. It's a little more than I bargained for here in the high mileage TBH

I posted a few photos so you all can see. Transmission pan leaked onto the drive shaft which spun fluid onto the heat/sound shield in the tunnel. Shield swelled up and rubs on tunnel now... There are two holes in the frame where I may be able to form some sort of bracket to hold the shield back.

When I replace the pan and fluid again (since it's just about time anyway) I am going with amsoil. I will report back if it fries the transmission

What happened to the trans seal? How old is the seal?

[wicked510]

Hmm about 50,000 miles zf oem torqued to spec

[Uber Commuter]

Originally Posted by Uber Commuter

Had a check engine light; code through Carly says it's the EGR Cooler valve so recall part. Also have a worsening coolant leak that isn't leaving any fluids behind (nothing on the ground) so either the head gasket is failing or the EGR Cooler is failing and leaking coolant into the exhaust stream...

It's at BMW right now, 110,XXX miles on it, getting diagnosed. Once they tell me the failures and whether the recall covers the work; I'll probably be DIY'ing what remains.

All the issues, CEL and coolant leak are related to the recall so covered by BMW. Getting a new EGR cooler, manifold, and valve out of the deal. So I had them check the suspension while I have the car in the shop; hit a really nasty pothole a few weeks ago and the car seems to be off ever since...

Turns out I pushed the strut 2+ inches through the lower mount, tearing up the CV boot and knuckle, and causing the tire to rub on the spring perch. The tire is worn through on the inner edge of the tread to steel belts...

All the issues I've been feeling/hearing are way worse than I thought, to the tune of about $5600 in parts and labor...

[wicked510]

How big was the pothole? Did it stop the car? I hit a pothole about 18" deep and 12" wide no major damage. You can file a collision claim for that if you need to. Depends on how much the car is worth and if you can DIY or not.

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by Uber Commuter

All the issues, CEL and coolant leak are related to the recall so covered by BMW. Getting a new EGR cooler, manifold, and valve out of the deal. So I had them check the suspension while I have the car in the shop; hit a really nasty pothole a few weeks ago and the car seems to be off ever since...

Turns out I pushed the strut 2+ inches through the lower mount, tearing up the CV boot and knuckle, and causing the tire to rub on the spring perch. The tire is worn through on the inner edge of the tread to steel belts...

All the issues I've been feeling/hearing are way worse than I thought, to the tune of about $5600 in parts and labor...

I've encountered a bent strut, tie rod, and lower arm in front, and some bent arm/s on rear due to "road obstacles". I stopped driving on immediately, because the steering was so off.

New arms, struts, and tie rods are fairly priced, and you can either do the work yourself or a trusted indy for cheaper. Check the rear too, because the arms are made to give before chassis damage happens.
After all that alignment came into perfect spec, without fudging or maxing out adjustments.

I did it all myself with lots of care, for what it's worth.

[Uber Commuter]

Sorry; I should have specified that's the BMW price and it's being covered under warranty. I'm reasonably competent at DIY work but I just don't have the time or a back-up car to drive while fixing this; so into the shop and in a rental while it gets repaired.

The pothole wasn't all that large, but I think the angle of the lip as I exited it was just right to screw everything up. Add in 100k plus miles and some parts that were probably ready for replacement anyway and it just collapsed...

[wicked510]

Since everyone is always asking for pictures! Here is a transmission pan and mechatronics from 120k miles to 170k miles. Definitely a lot less metal in the pan but the fluid looks a little burnt and the filter definitely caught some stuff black bits and tiny metal flecks like the first change at 120k.

[n00bkiller944]

Thanks for the pictures. Bushings look a little toasted. Is that 170k on them? Are those the lower control arms (or thrust arms or whatever bmw calls them?)

[Brekalo]

I have 320d 2014 with 165,000 km,and it's still running smooth.
Didnt have any repairs, just regular oil and filter service.
I'm thinking of changing transmission oil, but maybe its bit to late now with 165,000 km

[rbreding]

Originally Posted by Brekalo

I have 320d 2014 with 165,000 km,and it's still running smooth.
Didnt have any repairs, just regular oil and filter service.
I'm thinking of changing transmission oil, but maybe its bit to late now with 165,000 km

Change it. But at this mileage I would highly suggest dropping the mechatronic also and getting all those tube seals and bridge seal replaced also. When dropping the mecha 90%+ of the fluid will drain.