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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > 2012-2019 BMW 3 and 4-Series Forums > General F30 Sedan / F32 Coupe / F36 Gran Coupe Forum > Clutch delay valve on F30 found.
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      04-23-2019, 12:33 PM   #89
MacklinUSOB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tchao View Post
Im pretty sure he means through the slave. For some reason normal older bmw slave bleeding procedures didn't work on my F30. Had to do the syringe method as well.
Right yeah I meant the bleeder nipple on the slave. I am going to just got for the syringe method then. Cheers
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      06-16-2019, 08:53 PM   #90
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I wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this thread, it was my primary source of information going after the CDV on my M2. I am so much happier with the car now, and I can't thank you guys enough.

I did a writeup on the experience with some pics and thoughts that I haven't seen elsewhere, so I thought I'd post a link here for future reference.
https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1625114
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      08-19-2019, 02:08 AM   #91
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My car is going in for a new clutch and flywheel soon and im gonna get the garage to do this while its in
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      09-04-2019, 06:04 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy-320msport View Post
My car is going in for a new clutch and flywheel soon and im gonna get the garage to do this while its in
How did it go?

I'm doing the same thing next week. What clutch are you replacing it with? I bought a new slave and i'm just going to remove the CDV beforehand and get them to swap it in when it's all apart getting the clutch
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      09-13-2019, 12:23 AM   #93
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I bought a new slave cyl and yanked the cdv and rubbwr gasket out. Got it installed with my new clutch and DMF. Seems to be running great but I'll be taking it easy for a few 100km before really testing
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      10-09-2019, 01:43 PM   #94
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@codestar , thanks for the genius obvious not so obvious idea of just buying a new clutch slave cylinder. I was hesitant to do this mod because removing the old slave cylinder is beyond my pay grade. But I can definitely remove a rubber thingy and the metal washer thingy. Here is a simple way to remove them: just thread a screw in there and pull. I posted a new thread on this but I also wanted to reply here. No drilling required.
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      10-15-2019, 01:18 PM   #95
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So I'm going to try this soon. I have 2 brake flush jobs to do and figure this would be a nice way to use up the remaining fluid.

A few questions:

1. Is it possible to remove the components without removing the slave cylinder? Just stick a screw in there and pull out the washer and the rubber grommet?
2. How much fluid did you guys end up using to bleed the system? It'll likely be a 1 man job for me unless I can convince the wife to hop in while the car is in the air.
3. I'll clamp the feed line, but any other tips/tricks to minimize air getting into the slave?
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As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
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      10-18-2019, 03:19 PM   #96
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Just picked up the car yesterday. The clutch pedal seems to stiffen up after driving for a few minutes. Is this normal? I can't tell if the the pedal feel is normal when it stiffens up or if the pedal feel is normal before stiffening up. It's not super-stiff. When I say stiff, it's more of a springy feel, as opposed to when I just start driving it feels softer.
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      10-19-2019, 01:30 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
So I'm going to try this soon. I have 2 brake flush jobs to do and figure this would be a nice way to use up the remaining fluid.

A few questions:

1. Is it possible to remove the components without removing the slave cylinder? Just stick a screw in there and pull out the washer and the rubber grommet?
2. How much fluid did you guys end up using to bleed the system? It'll likely be a 1 man job for me unless I can convince the wife to hop in while the car is in the air.
3. I'll clamp the feed line, but any other tips/tricks to minimize air getting into the slave?
Unfortunately I can't be more help here-- I had it done by the mechanic when I had my clutch replaced, but good luck with the install!
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      10-19-2019, 01:32 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkiledj View Post
Just picked up the car yesterday. The clutch pedal seems to stiffen up after driving for a few minutes. Is this normal? I can't tell if the the pedal feel is normal when it stiffens up or if the pedal feel is normal before stiffening up. It's not super-stiff. When I say stiff, it's more of a springy feel, as opposed to when I just start driving it feels softer.
Not too sure what you mean by that, since I got my spec clutch at the same time that changed my clutch feel so much I don't know the difference between the parts haha
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      10-19-2019, 07:45 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkiledj View Post
Just picked up the car yesterday. The clutch pedal seems to stiffen up after driving for a few minutes. Is this normal? I can't tell if the the pedal feel is normal when it stiffens up or if the pedal feel is normal before stiffening up. It's not super-stiff. When I say stiff, it's more of a springy feel, as opposed to when I just start driving it feels softer.
If it changes from stiff to soft/springy while you're driving, then there is probably air in the lines. It should be consistent.
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As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
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      10-19-2019, 02:37 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkiledj View Post
Just picked up the car yesterday. The clutch pedal seems to stiffen up after driving for a few minutes. Is this normal? I can't tell if the the pedal feel is normal when it stiffens up or if the pedal feel is normal before stiffening up. It's not super-stiff. When I say stiff, it's more of a springy feel, as opposed to when I just start driving it feels softer.
If it changes from stiff to soft/springy while you're driving, then there is probably air in the lines. It should be consistent.
It's going the other way, soft to stiff/springy. The engagement point is also changing from low to high. It's very minimal. I'm hoping it self-bleeds and becomes consistent. Thoughts?
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      10-20-2019, 09:17 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkiledj View Post
It's going the other way, soft to stiff/springy. The engagement point is also changing from low to high. It's very minimal. I'm hoping it self-bleeds and becomes consistent. Thoughts?
Doesn't hurt to wait, but at the end of the day, it shouldn't change. At some point it needs to be bled more, whether the bubbles worth themselves out or you do it manually.
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As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
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      10-22-2019, 08:20 PM   #102
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Amazing thread and amazing work by everyone involved. I removed my CDV today and thanks to all of you it went like clockwork. I did not remove the slave and instead used a screw to take out the rubber piece. Once it was out, the metal restrictor was just laying in the slave. I hooked the edge of it with my pinky nail and it fell out. The bottom bolt of the slave has to be removed because the line support bracket is held by it. A 6” 3/8 extension with 13 mm deepwell fit the space just right. The hose is rubber (no Teflon or braiding) so it can be clamped to stop fluid loss. I used vice grips at the slave end of the line to keep the most possible fluid in the system. I had 100% succes with zero issues using the pedal to bleed the air. It took 8-10 striokes with the bleeder cracked and the air was gone. I used a traditional brake bleed bottle with a little fluid in the bottom. Im not sure if i was just lucky or what but it bleed like any clutch I’ve ever worked on.

Ive had this car (328i sportline) for just over a year and love most everything about it except for the clutch. The clutch is (was) so terrible that I was thinking about selling the car. To do so would be a huge deal for me as it’s my seventh 3series and I live and breathe BMW. If you’re not happy with your clutch and wondering if removing the restrictor is the right move, I’m confident it is. The clutch now works like a clutch. It’s smooth, predictable, and fun. I’m so happy with the results. I should mention, once the car was on jackstands, the total job took an hour and 15. It was super quick (leave the slave in). Thanks all
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Last edited by Lgbgeek; 10-22-2019 at 10:11 PM.. Reason: Mistakes
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      10-23-2019, 06:51 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lgbgeek View Post
Amazing thread and amazing work by everyone involved. I removed my CDV today and thanks to all of you it went like clockwork. I did not remove the slave and instead used a screw to take out the rubber piece. Once it was out, the metal restrictor was just laying in the slave. I hooked the edge of it with my pinky nail and it fell out. The bottom bolt of the slave has to be removed because the line support bracket is held by it. A 6" 3/8 extension with 13 mm deepwell fit the space just right. The hose is rubber (no Teflon or braiding) so it can be clamped to stop fluid loss. I used vice grips at the slave end of the line to keep the most possible fluid in the system. I had 100% succes with zero issues using the pedal to bleed the air. It took 8-10 striokes with the bleeder cracked and the air was gone. I used a traditional brake bleed bottle with a little fluid in the bottom. Im not sure if i was just lucky or what but it bleed like any clutch I've ever worked on.

Ive had this car (328i sportline) for just over a year and love most everything about it except for the clutch. The clutch is (was) so terrible that I was thinking about selling the car. To do so would be a huge deal for me as it's my seventh 3series and I live and breathe BMW. If you're not happy with your clutch and wondering if removing the restrictor is the right move, I'm confident it is. The clutch now works like a clutch. It's smooth, predictable, and fun. I'm so happy with the results. I should mention, once the car was on jackstands, the total job took an hour and 15. It was super quick (leave the slave in). Thanks all
Awesome to finally see a good descriptive post in this thread with pictures! Thank you!

Can I bother you to give a bit of a step by Step with a bit more detail on the bleeding method you had success with? That is the one part I have always had the most concern with and has had me hesitant to do this on my car.
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      10-24-2019, 08:07 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lgbgeek View Post
Amazing thread and amazing work by everyone involved. I removed my CDV today and thanks to all of you it went like clockwork. I did not remove the slave and instead used a screw to take out the rubber piece. Once it was out, the metal restrictor was just laying in the slave. I hooked the edge of it with my pinky nail and it fell out. The bottom bolt of the slave has to be removed because the line support bracket is held by it. A 6 3/8 extension with 13 mm deepwell fit the space just right. The hose is rubber (no Teflon or braiding) so it can be clamped to stop fluid loss. I used vice grips at the slave end of the line to keep the most possible fluid in the system. I had 100% succes with zero issues using the pedal to bleed the air. It took 8-10 striokes with the bleeder cracked and the air was gone. I used a traditional brake bleed bottle with a little fluid in the bottom. Im not sure if i was just lucky or what but it bleed like any clutch Ive ever worked on.
i figured it could be done without removing the slave. thanks for the confirmation. i think your method is key to keeping the bleeding process simple by not moving too many components.

when i get to mine, i'll try to make a video and post it up.
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As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
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