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      10-19-2019, 04:09 PM   #1
Lgb0250
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Help an Old Man Out w/Mods

Just got my first BMW about a week ago. A stock F32 435i M-Sport. I came up in the muscle car era of the 60’s. In retrospect, they weren’t all that fast compared to today’s vehicles. The 0-60 times for my current wheels flat blows away the same 0-60 on my first car which was a 64 GTO w/tri power.

But, while the F32 is quick, it doesn’t sound anything like a muscle car! At least yet. This is where I can use your help. I don’t want to devote a ton of time doing a different mod every week. But, I’m open to a few to get what I’m looking for.

The acronyms on this forum are killing me! Not like there is a dictionary here to decipher what one is saying. Consider this mod 101 for a newb. What would be the easiest and least expensive first 3 mods for me to take on to add a few hp and improve the sound. Thanks for your help.
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      10-19-2019, 04:18 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Lgb0250 View Post
Just got my first BMW about a week ago. A stock F32 435i M-Sport. I came up in the muscle car era of the 60's. In retrospect, they weren't all that fast compared to today's vehicles. The 0-60 times for my current wheels flat blows away the same 0-60 on my first car which was a 64 GTO w/tri power.

But, while the F32 is quick, it doesn't sound anything like a muscle car! At least yet. This is where I can use your help. I don't want to devote a ton of time doing a different mod every week. But, I'm open to a few to get what I'm looking for.

The acronyms on this forum are killing me! Not like there is a dictionary here to decipher what one is saying. Consider this mod 101 for a newb. What would be the easiest and least expensive first 3 mods for me to take on to add a few hp and improve the sound. Thanks for your help.
A JB+ should add maybe 50 to 80 HP, maybe even 100 for about $199 and installs in minutes. It is available on burgertuning.com. Or you can spend a couple hundred more and get the JB4. It's a little more sophisticated and lets you do more fine tuning rather than just increasing the boost. (Things like adjusting boost per gear as you might want less boost at lower gears and more in higher gears to have less wheel spin.). You can get a Remus cat back exhaust to improve the sound which has a valve you can open and close via Bluetooth. If you want to go official BMW then get the MPE for exhaust and MPPK for a mild tune but it will cost more.
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      10-19-2019, 04:40 PM   #3
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JB+ is up to 35hp on the N55 engine.

You’re not looking for hp increase.
You want sound since you’re used to old muscle cars. Look into an exhaust system.
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      10-19-2019, 04:55 PM   #4
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JB+ is up to 35hp on the N55 engine.

You're not looking for hp increase.
You want sound since you're used to old muscle cars. Look into an exhaust system.
He did say he wanted to add a few HP and improve the sound, so JB+ and maybe a BMS intake for the sound, easy to install and easy on the wallet/budget friendly. Or maybe AFE intake so as not to endorse a single brand.
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      10-19-2019, 05:10 PM   #5
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Jb4, downpipe(dp), front mount intercooler(fmic) bms intake. All 3 will be well under $1500, easy for a diy home garage guy to do over a weekend or 2.


You will get a major power boost and major improvement in sound. The fmic also improves the front end looks in my opinion.

A Remus exhaust has a serious price tag, north of $2000. Will improve sound, but do next to nothing to add hp by itself.

You would also as a first priority, if adding any increase in hp, would be an aftermarket charge pipe(cp). The stock plastic charge pipe is known to blow even with stock engines.
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      10-19-2019, 05:37 PM   #6
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Going with a JB+ and BMS intake, looking at JB+ $199 to add 35 HP or JB4 for $479 for about 80HP crank. BMS intake is $179 for sound (turbo spool and engine sound in general and maybe some modest HP gains). So about $380 total with JB+ and under $1000 with JB4 and you can install it in maybe an hour or less. Depending on what you do it may even be 50 state emissions legal. If necessary it's pretty easy to bring back to stock for service or emissions test or when you want to sell it. And you can sell the mods separately. You may want to get the aluminum charge pipe as these engines are known to blow the plastic charge pipe due to the engine side being on movable mounts and the rad side or intercooler side being fixed to the chassis. $199 for the chargepipe.

https://burgertuning.com/collections/4-series-f32-f33

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      10-19-2019, 05:48 PM   #7
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Tune, you can get a Burger Tune JB+ or JB Stage 1 or even a flash tune (for more power) like a bootmod3

Axel-back exhaust like a AWE or Remus

An updated charge pipe for the xtra power. Even cars with no mods have blown the stock charge pipe
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      10-19-2019, 05:51 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Busa1 View Post
A Tune, you can get a Burger Tune JB+ or JB Stage 1 or even a flash tune (for more power) like a bootmod3

Axel-back exhaust like a AWE or Remus

An updated charge pipe for the xtra power. Even cars with no mods have blown the stock charge pipe
Yes I was going to say even stock these engines will blow the charge pipe but then forgot to mention it.
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      10-19-2019, 05:54 PM   #9
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Lot's of crappy suggestions in here. If you're OK for now with how quick the car is and want a little extra rumble I'd suggest an axle-back/catback ehxaust.

If you want the full complement of mods you'll want a new chargepipe (CP), downpipe (DP), a tune (MHD or BM3), and possibly an intercooler (IC)
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      10-19-2019, 06:22 PM   #10
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Without doubt the best mod to start with is BM3 (from another “older” bloke).

It will make the power you “need”
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      10-19-2019, 06:32 PM   #11
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BM3 is another good option will set you back a little more $595 and is flash tune via ODB. No need to install anything under the hood and can even allow you to add burbles, not sure how much better it will make the stock exhaust though. It may work better than a bolt on tune which can sometimes give you problems. You just need the app and a cable which I believe it comes with.

https://www.protuningfreaks.com/coll...5i-x3-x4-x5-m2
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      10-19-2019, 09:38 PM   #12
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Rabbit hole quickly gets deep with this platform.

First two, Charge Pipe and Flash Tune....then grease up the wallet from there.

I've had a few things done with mine if you need suggestions (see signature)

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      10-19-2019, 09:44 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lgb0250 View Post
Just got my first BMW about a week ago. A stock F32 435i M-Sport. I came up in the muscle car era of the 60's. In retrospect, they weren't all that fast compared to today's vehicles. The 0-60 times for my current wheels flat blows away the same 0-60 on my first car which was a 64 GTO w/tri power.

But, while the F32 is quick, it doesn't sound anything like a muscle car! At least yet. This is where I can use your help. I don't want to devote a ton of time doing a different mod every week. But, I'm open to a few to get what I'm looking for.

The acronyms on this forum are killing me! Not like there is a dictionary here to decipher what one is saying. Consider this mod 101 for a newb. What would be the easiest and least expensive first 3 mods for me to take on to add a few hp and improve the sound. Thanks for your help.
HaHa, I'm an old Motörhead too, except I'm two years ahead of you in the land of BMW. Here's a primer:

WOT- Wide Open Throttle, or in old guy language "you've got it floored!"

FBO- Full Bolt On, which is totally meaningless because you could have bolted on the best mods or you could have bolted on complete crap.

FMIC- Front Mounted Intercooler, because it's cool to use an acronym instead of just saying intercooler.

CP- Charge Pipe, the pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body that carries pressurized, cooled air to the engine. Stock plastic pipe in N55 engine that is a poor design so it always breaks. Replace it with an aluminum CP from ER.

ER- Evolution Raceworks, an aftermarket parts manufacturer in Nevada that makes excellent quality, great fitting stuff.

TIC- Turbo to Intercooler pipe that carries boosted hot air from turbo to the intercooler to be cooled.

Turbo Inlet Pipe- pipe that carries unpressurized air from the stock or aftermarket intake/air filter into the turbocharger to be pressurized.

DP- Downpipe. This is the first part of the exhaust system that connects to the turbo/exhaust. The DP contains the catalytic converter (cat) and also oxygen (O2) sensors before and after the cat.

Catless DP- has no cat. Pros are Performance and loud sound. (Performance comes from less back pressure on the turbo so can run higher boost levels.) Cons are loud sound, gasoline smell and issues with passing emissions that vary by state.

Catted DP- assumes it is a higher flowing performance cat compared to stock cat (cats are measured by number of CELs per inch which can be confusing, see below.) that is more restrictive. Quality, price and features vary widely. Guys assume performance is a lot less than catless DP but that isn't necessarily so. The best catted DPs are made by Fabspeed in the US from European HJS cats. They have 93% of the flow of a fully catless pipe yet are guaranteed not to throw a CEL and have no gasoline smell. For those reasons they cost the most.

CEL- Check Engine Light, that dreaded dash light that can mean anything.

Midpipe- middle pipe between the DP and the axle-back exhaust. Guys who replace usually end up complaining that it's too loud and has unbearable drone.

Exhaust- connects to the midpipe and ends in some configuration of exhaust pipe(s) sticking out the rear.

Debadge- to use dental floss to remove rear badges that designate the model. This is most often done by people with lower powered cars but you can usually tell exactly what model it is by glancing at the tail pipe(s).

Single left pipe- low end 4-cyl
Dual left pipes- newer 4-cyl
Singles right & left pipes- 6-cyl 335/435, 340/440
Dual pipes left & right- M cars, M3/M4

BMW Performance Marketing Terms:
MS- M Sport as in M Sport blue brakes
MP- M Performance as in many perf. parts

N54- older pre-2012 straight 6-cylinder engine. Can be modded to very high power but also has numerous maintenance issues. Can be single or dual turbo. Lots of available mods. Guys love it or hate it!

N55- newer 2012-2016 F30 chassis 335/435/etc straight 6-cylinder engine with single dual scroll turbo for better response, broad torque curve. Less maintenance issues. Lots of available mods.

B58- newest 2017-on 340/400/etc straight 6-cylinder with single dual scroll turbo. This is part of BMW's new modular engine series that they had been using in the minis for several years prior so it does have a track record and most bugs shaken out. It's more powerful than unmodded N55. Uses a water-cooled intercooler so not an FMIC. Engine cooling upgrade is done by upgrading to a larger coolant radiator. Most mods have been released for this platform.

N20/N28- 4-cylinder engines.

DV- Diverter Valve or Blow Off Valve is controlled by the DME (engine's computer brain) to release excess boost to protect turbo and engine

DV+, a specific upgraded diverter valve part made by an Australian company called GFB.

GFB- Go Fast Bits

These should hold you for now. There will be a test when you least suspect it! Hope this helps!

UPDATE:
Just realized you have a 2014 435 so you have an N55 engine that either has the earlier PWG Pneumatic Waste Gate and 3.5" DP and the slightly smaller turbo. Or you have a post-LCI (mid-model change) car with an EWG Electronic Wastegate and 4.0" DP with slightly larger turbo. The change over happened on build dates around July 2013. Some mods are predicated on you knowing which of these you have. Often a dealer might have to run your VIN to tell you which you have.
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      10-19-2019, 09:56 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by johnung View Post
HaHa, I'm an old Motörhead too, except I'm two years ahead of you in the land of BMW. Here's a primer:

WOT- Wide Open Throttle, or in old guy language "you've got it floored!"

FBO- Full Bolt On, which is totally meaningless because you could have bolted on the best mods or you could have bolted on complete crap.

FMIC- Front Mounted Intercooler, because it's cool to use an acronym instead of just saying intercooler.

CP- Charge Pipe, the pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body that carries pressurized, cooled air to the engine. Stock plastic pipe in N55 engine that is a poor design so it always breaks. Replace it with an aluminum CP from ER.

ER- Evolution Raceworks, an aftermarket parts manufacturer in Nevada that makes excellent quality, great fitting stuff.

TIC- Turbo to Intercooler pipe that carries boosted hot air from turbo to the intercooler to be cooled.

Turbo Inlet Pipe- pipe that carries unpressurized air from the stock or aftermarket intake/air filter into the turbocharger to be pressurized.

DP- Downpipe. This is the first part of the exhaust system that connects to the turbo/exhaust. The DP contains the catalytic converter (cat) and also oxygen (O2) sensors before and after the cat.

Catless DP- has no cat. Pros are Performance and loud sound. (Performance comes from less back pressure on the turbo so can run higher boost levels.) Cons are loud sound, gasoline smell and issues with passing emissions that vary by state.

Catted DP- assumes it is a higher flowing performance cat compared to stock cat (cats are measured by number of CELs per inch which can be confusing, see below.) that is more restrictive. Quality, price and features vary widely. Guys assume performance is a lot less than catless DP but that isn't necessarily so. The best catted DPs are made by Fabspeed in the US from European HJS cats. They have 93% of the flow of a fully catless pipe yet are guaranteed not to throw a CEL and have no gasoline smell. For those reasons they cost the most.

CEL- Check Engine Light, that dreaded dash light that can mean anything.......


These should hold you for now. There will be a test when you least suspect it! Hope this helps!

Damn...this needs to be pinned! Well done! . .


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      10-19-2019, 11:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lgb0250 View Post
Just got my first BMW about a week ago. A stock F32 435i M-Sport. I came up in the muscle car era of the 60’s. In retrospect, they weren’t all that fast compared to today’s vehicles. The 0-60 times for my current wheels flat blows away the same 0-60 on my first car which was a 64 GTO w/tri power.

But, while the F32 is quick, it doesn’t sound anything like a muscle car! At least yet. This is where I can use your help. I don’t want to devote a ton of time doing a different mod every week. But, I’m open to a few to get what I’m looking for.

The acronyms on this forum are killing me! Not like there is a dictionary here to decipher what one is saying. Consider this mod 101 for a newb. What would be the easiest and least expensive first 3 mods for me to take on to add a few hp and improve the sound. Thanks for your help.
I had a lot of friends in my car club in the 80's that had GTO's. Just saw some at a local show last weekend. Classic!

I've got a 2015 335i xdrive which is same engine, platform as your car so 90% of mods are the same. You can already tell that on forums you will get feedback that can be all over the place. Can get confusing very quickly.

I'm hesitant to start throwing ideas at you without understanding a little more. I heard you say that you want to hear the sound of the engine much more and that you would like a simple power upgrade along with it. And you'd like to accomplish several things at once rather than agonizingly spacing them out.

Do you intend to do some or all of the work yourself? If so, how proficient are you at exhaust systems and do you have the tools and garage to do it? If not, do you have local shops that you have confidence in? I recently learned about the BimmerShops website and found some BMW independents in my area that I hadn't heard of before.

Do you have any sort of budget in mind? HaHa, Which of these numbers start to make you nervous $500, $1,500, $2,500, $3,500, $4,500?

After you do these first several mods to get more sound and power, will you be satisfied for the next 12 months? Or do you see some specific areas that you may focus additional mods on? One reason that I ask is because there are 5 parts that can effect sound but some also effect power either now or later.

Wouldn't want to recommend something short term if it would be better to recommend another option now knowing where you want to be in a year with your car. If that makes sense. Gotta look ahead a little to not waste money now. HaHa, can you tell I used to plan projects!
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      10-19-2019, 11:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronanz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
HaHa, I'm an old Motörhead too, except I'm two years ahead of you in the land of BMW. Here's a primer:

WOT- Wide Open Throttle, or in old guy language "you've got it floored!"

FBO- Full Bolt On, which is totally meaningless because you could have bolted on the best mods or you could have bolted on complete crap.

FMIC- Front Mounted Intercooler, because it's cool to use an acronym instead of just saying intercooler.

CP- Charge Pipe, the pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body that carries pressurized, cooled air to the engine. Stock plastic pipe in N55 engine that is a poor design so it always breaks. Replace it with an aluminum CP from ER.

ER- Evolution Raceworks, an aftermarket parts manufacturer in Nevada that makes excellent quality, great fitting stuff.

TIC- Turbo to Intercooler pipe that carries boosted hot air from turbo to the intercooler to be cooled.

Turbo Inlet Pipe- pipe that carries unpressurized air from the stock or aftermarket intake/air filter into the turbocharger to be pressurized.

DP- Downpipe. This is the first part of the exhaust system that connects to the turbo/exhaust. The DP contains the catalytic converter (cat) and also oxygen (O2) sensors before and after the cat.

Catless DP- has no cat. Pros are Performance and loud sound. (Performance comes from less back pressure on the turbo so can run higher boost levels.) Cons are loud sound, gasoline smell and issues with passing emissions that vary by state.

Catted DP- assumes it is a higher flowing performance cat compared to stock cat (cats are measured by number of CELs per inch which can be confusing, see below.) that is more restrictive. Quality, price and features vary widely. Guys assume performance is a lot less than catless DP but that isn't necessarily so. The best catted DPs are made by Fabspeed in the US from European HJS cats. They have 93% of the flow of a fully catless pipe yet are guaranteed not to throw a CEL and have no gasoline smell. For those reasons they cost the most.

CEL- Check Engine Light, that dreaded dash light that can mean anything.......


These should hold you for now. There will be a test when you least suspect it! Hope this helps!

Damn...this needs to be pinned! Well done! . .


.
Was just gonna say the same. Need to pin this and add all the acronyms!
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      10-20-2019, 09:25 AM   #17
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Thanks everyone for the great recommendations. Looks like my first move should absolutely be a new CP.

From there I’m thinking the BM3. The JB+ is not quite enough and the JB4 is so close in cost to the BM3 I think it would be smarter to spend a little more and go with the BM3. Last but not least I’m leaning towards an axel-back.

My goals are not to make this a full time job but to get it where it will really be fun to drive for at least a couple of years. By then, if I’m still vertical, I may be ready to move up to a 440 or an M4

Again, thanks for all the great feedback. Thanks for the mod 101 refresher and the acronym list. Makes a big difference when a complete newb.
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      10-20-2019, 09:43 AM   #18
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I used to think BM3 cost something like a $1500 bucks or something, they may have lowered their pricing. It is super convenient actually to do a flash tune on the fly for track days or just to have some fun and flash back to stock in a matter of minutes. Though some maps may require higher octanes then are available in some states or E20-E85 so just something to be aware of and you can always ask questions here or they have customer support.
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      10-20-2019, 11:07 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmer456 View Post
I used to think BM3 cost something like a $1500 bucks or something, they may have lowered their pricing. It is super convenient actually to do a flash tune on the fly for track days or just to have some fun and flash back to stock in a matter of minutes. Though some maps may require higher octanes then are available in some states or E20-E85 so just something to be aware of and you can always ask questions here or they have customer support.

I've been with bm3 from the beginning, their current pricing has been the same from launch. Their tuning platform has never been remotely close to $1500


When launched, the only additional option outside of the OBD agent was physically unlocking DME (OBD unlock was not available initially)

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      10-20-2019, 11:08 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmer456 View Post
I used to think BM3 cost something like a $1500 bucks or something, they may have lowered their pricing. It is super convenient actually to do a flash tune on the fly for track days or just to have some fun and flash back to stock in a matter of minutes. Though some maps may require higher octanes then are available in some states or E20-E85 so just something to be aware of and you can always ask questions here or they have customer support.
Yeah dude you may want to edit /delete your original post, lots of incorrect information in there
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      10-31-2019, 08:33 AM   #21
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Great thread for Newbies (or anyone wanting to mod). This should be stickied!!! Really helps explain a lot.
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      10-31-2019, 09:17 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lgb0250 View Post
Just got my first BMW about a week ago. A stock F32 435i M-Sport. I came up in the muscle car era of the 60's. In retrospect, they weren't all that fast compared to today's vehicles. The 0-60 times for my current wheels flat blows away the same 0-60 on my first car which was a 64 GTO w/tri power.

But, while the F32 is quick, it doesn't sound anything like a muscle car! At least yet. This is where I can use your help. I don't want to devote a ton of time doing a different mod every week. But, I'm open to a few to get what I'm looking for.

The acronyms on this forum are killing me! Not like there is a dictionary here to decipher what one is saying. Consider this mod 101 for a newb. What would be the easiest and least expensive first 3 mods for me to take on to add a few hp and improve the sound. Thanks for your help.
HaHa, I'm an old Motörhead too, except I'm two years ahead of you in the land of BMW. Here's a primer:

WOT- Wide Open Throttle, or in old guy language "you've got it floored!"

FBO- Full Bolt On, which is totally meaningless because you could have bolted on the best mods or you could have bolted on complete crap.

FMIC- Front Mounted Intercooler, because it's cool to use an acronym instead of just saying intercooler.

CP- Charge Pipe, the pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body that carries pressurized, cooled air to the engine. Stock plastic pipe in N55 engine that is a poor design so it always breaks. Replace it with an aluminum CP from ER.

ER- Evolution Raceworks, an aftermarket parts manufacturer in Nevada that makes excellent quality, great fitting stuff.

TIC- Turbo to Intercooler pipe that carries boosted hot air from turbo to the intercooler to be cooled.

Turbo Inlet Pipe- pipe that carries unpressurized air from the stock or aftermarket intake/air filter into the turbocharger to be pressurized.

DP- Downpipe. This is the first part of the exhaust system that connects to the turbo/exhaust. The DP contains the catalytic converter (cat) and also oxygen (O2) sensors before and after the cat.

Catless DP- has no cat. Pros are Performance and loud sound. (Performance comes from less back pressure on the turbo so can run higher boost levels.) Cons are loud sound, gasoline smell and issues with passing emissions that vary by state.

Catted DP- assumes it is a higher flowing performance cat compared to stock cat (cats are measured by number of CELs per inch which can be confusing, see below.) that is more restrictive. Quality, price and features vary widely. Guys assume performance is a lot less than catless DP but that isn't necessarily so. The best catted DPs are made by Fabspeed in the US from European HJS cats. They have 93% of the flow of a fully catless pipe yet are guaranteed not to throw a CEL and have no gasoline smell. For those reasons they cost the most.

CEL- Check Engine Light, that dreaded dash light that can mean anything.

Midpipe- middle pipe between the DP and the axle-back exhaust. Guys who replace usually end up complaining that it's too loud and has unbearable drone.

Exhaust- connects to the midpipe and ends in some configuration of exhaust pipe(s) sticking out the rear.

Debadge- to use dental floss to remove rear badges that designate the model. This is most often done by people with lower powered cars but you can usually tell exactly what model it is by glancing at the tail pipe(s).

Single left pipe- low end 4-cyl
Dual left pipes- newer 4-cyl
Singles right & left pipes- 6-cyl 335/435, 340/440
Dual pipes left & right- M cars, M3/M4

BMW Performance Marketing Terms:
MS- M Sport as in M Sport blue brakes
MP- M Performance as in many perf. parts

N54- older pre-2012 straight 6-cylinder engine. Can be modded to very high power but also has numerous maintenance issues. Can be single or dual turbo. Lots of available mods. Guys love it or hate it!

N55- newer 2012-2016 F30 chassis 335/435/etc straight 6-cylinder engine with single dual scroll turbo for better response, broad torque curve. Less maintenance issues. Lots of available mods.

B58- newest 2017-on 340/400/etc straight 6-cylinder with single dual scroll turbo. This is part of BMW's new modular engine series that they had been using in the minis for several years prior so it does have a track record and most bugs shaken out. It's more powerful than unmodded N55. Uses a water-cooled intercooler so not an FMIC. Engine cooling upgrade is done by upgrading to a larger coolant radiator. Most mods have been released for this platform.

N20/N28- 4-cylinder engines.

DV- Diverter Valve or Blow Off Valve is controlled by the DME (engine's computer brain) to release excess boost to protect turbo and engine

DV+, a specific upgraded diverter valve part made by an Australian company called GFB.

GFB- Go Fast Bits

These should hold you for now. There will be a test when you least suspect it! Hope this helps!

UPDATE:
Just realized you have a 2014 435 so you have an N55 engine that either has the earlier PWG Pneumatic Waste Gate and 3.5" DP and the slightly smaller turbo. Or you have a post-LCI (mid-model change) car with an EWG Electronic Wastegate and 4.0" DP with slightly larger turbo. The change over happened on build dates around July 2013. Some mods are predicated on you knowing which of these you have. Often a dealer might have to run your VIN to tell you which you have.
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lgb0250 View Post
Just got my first BMW about a week ago. A stock F32 435i M-Sport. I came up in the muscle car era of the 60's. In retrospect, they weren't all that fast compared to today's vehicles. The 0-60 times for my current wheels flat blows away the same 0-60 on my first car which was a 64 GTO w/tri power.

But, while the F32 is quick, it doesn't sound anything like a muscle car! At least yet. This is where I can use your help. I don't want to devote a ton of time doing a different mod every week. But, I'm open to a few to get what I'm looking for.

The acronyms on this forum are killing me! Not like there is a dictionary here to decipher what one is saying. Consider this mod 101 for a newb. What would be the easiest and least expensive first 3 mods for me to take on to add a few hp and improve the sound. Thanks for your help.
HaHa, I'm an old Motörhead too, except I'm two years ahead of you in the land of BMW. Here's a primer:

WOT- Wide Open Throttle, or in old guy language "you've got it floored!"

FBO- Full Bolt On, which is totally meaningless because you could have bolted on the best mods or you could have bolted on complete crap.

FMIC- Front Mounted Intercooler, because it's cool to use an acronym instead of just saying intercooler.

CP- Charge Pipe, the pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body that carries pressurized, cooled air to the engine. Stock plastic pipe in N55 engine that is a poor design so it always breaks. Replace it with an aluminum CP from ER.

ER- Evolution Raceworks, an aftermarket parts manufacturer in Nevada that makes excellent quality, great fitting stuff.

TIC- Turbo to Intercooler pipe that carries boosted hot air from turbo to the intercooler to be cooled.

Turbo Inlet Pipe- pipe that carries unpressurized air from the stock or aftermarket intake/air filter into the turbocharger to be pressurized.

DP- Downpipe. This is the first part of the exhaust system that connects to the turbo/exhaust. The DP contains the catalytic converter (cat) and also oxygen (O2) sensors before and after the cat.

Catless DP- has no cat. Pros are Performance and loud sound. (Performance comes from less back pressure on the turbo so can run higher boost levels.) Cons are loud sound, gasoline smell and issues with passing emissions that vary by state.

Catted DP- assumes it is a higher flowing performance cat compared to stock cat (cats are measured by number of CELs per inch which can be confusing, see below.) that is more restrictive. Quality, price and features vary widely. Guys assume performance is a lot less than catless DP but that isn't necessarily so. The best catted DPs are made by Fabspeed in the US from European HJS cats. They have 93% of the flow of a fully catless pipe yet are guaranteed not to throw a CEL and have no gasoline smell. For those reasons they cost the most.

CEL- Check Engine Light, that dreaded dash light that can mean anything.

Midpipe- middle pipe between the DP and the axle-back exhaust. Guys who replace usually end up complaining that it's too loud and has unbearable drone.

Exhaust- connects to the midpipe and ends in some configuration of exhaust pipe(s) sticking out the rear.

Debadge- to use dental floss to remove rear badges that designate the model. This is most often done by people with lower powered cars but you can usually tell exactly what model it is by glancing at the tail pipe(s).

Single left pipe- low end 4-cyl
Dual left pipes- newer 4-cyl
Singles right & left pipes- 6-cyl 335/435, 340/440
Dual pipes left & right- M cars, M3/M4

BMW Performance Marketing Terms:
MS- M Sport as in M Sport blue brakes
MP- M Performance as in many perf. parts

N54- older pre-2012 straight 6-cylinder engine. Can be modded to very high power but also has numerous maintenance issues. Can be single or dual turbo. Lots of available mods. Guys love it or hate it!

N55- newer 2012-2016 F30 chassis 335/435/etc straight 6-cylinder engine with single dual scroll turbo for better response, broad torque curve. Less maintenance issues. Lots of available mods.

B58- newest 2017-on 340/400/etc straight 6-cylinder with single dual scroll turbo. This is part of BMW's new modular engine series that they had been using in the minis for several years prior so it does have a track record and most bugs shaken out. It's more powerful than unmodded N55. Uses a water-cooled intercooler so not an FMIC. Engine cooling upgrade is done by upgrading to a larger coolant radiator. Most mods have been released for this platform.

N20/N28- 4-cylinder engines.

DV- Diverter Valve or Blow Off Valve is controlled by the DME (engine's computer brain) to release excess boost to protect turbo and engine

DV+, a specific upgraded diverter valve part made by an Australian company called GFB.

GFB- Go Fast Bits

These should hold you for now. There will be a test when you least suspect it! Hope this helps!

UPDATE:
Just realized you have a 2014 435 so you have an N55 engine that either has the earlier PWG Pneumatic Waste Gate and 3.5" DP and the slightly smaller turbo. Or you have a post-LCI (mid-model change) car with an EWG Electronic Wastegate and 4.0" DP with slightly larger turbo. The change over happened on build dates around July 2013. Some mods are predicated on you knowing which of these you have. Often a dealer might have to run your VIN to tell you which you have.

This was work well done! Thank you! Another poster was right, this needs to be pinned!
Appreciate 1
johnung549.00

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