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      04-19-2018, 12:28 PM   #23
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So did you get a chance to to test out the CDV delete? 1/2/3 aggressive shifts okay?

I was looking into getting an E9x plastic slave, the throw and dimensions are exactly the same as F30, and they utilize external CDV, so I am assuming the E9x slaves does not contain additional restrictor.

If you go under the car and have someone actuate the clutch, you can very clearly hear a delay in action. Almost like a ball bearing traveling to a port to restrict, buying about 1/2 second.
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      04-19-2018, 05:20 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Tchao View Post
So did you get a chance to to test out the CDV delete? 1/2/3 aggressive shifts okay?

I was looking into getting an E9x plastic slave, the throw and dimensions are exactly the same as F30, and they utilize external CDV, so I am assuming the E9x slaves does not contain additional restrictor.

If you go under the car and have someone actuate the clutch, you can very clearly hear a delay in action. Almost like a ball bearing traveling to a port to restrict, buying about 1/2 second.
Interesting... If it were as simple as replacing with an E9X slave I'd be all over this. My concerns are mangling my stock slave cylinder or wasting a hundred bucks mangling a new one and it not working properly.
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      04-19-2018, 07:59 PM   #25
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Here the E46, you can see the inside of the external CDV, all it does is reduce a large bore to a tiny one. So the part that was removed here .. I agree, it looks like a duck. The small diameter even looks the same. Zeckhausen's page doesn't show the inner bore.

At 2:40 you can see the bore pretty well


I really want that to be out .. I don't think I'm going to be able to leave it alone for much longer. Now that I fully understand it I can feel it working [against me] all the time.

newtis.info has the factory procedure for replacing the slave, but it isn't very interesting beyond what's already been discussed here. The recommended grease is "unirex s2" .. which is a little hard to come by. So, "Any good synthetic grease will work great for throwout bearings and spline shafts. I use Bel Ray synthetic grease. Autozone supplies them." Subaru used a red grease, which didn't last 60k miles and turned to a horrible squeaking noise .. inside the bellhousing on the pivot ball, so drop the trans, just to grease a nob. sold..

The 'pentosin DOT 4' is also at advanced autozone. It would be great to see the E9x part side by side.

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      04-19-2018, 10:35 PM   #26
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I think we all know what the older E-series CDV's are. I deleted my E82 in 10mins.

I think its just worth mentioning that I hear a definite audio delay in clutch return under our F30's. Ive been trying to delete the CDV for about a year now.
After seeing the E90 slave, its exactly the same. And the reference documents even verify the throw and size to be exactly the same. From what I researched you need to get the updated part #, basically if its plastic, then its the right one, the plastic supersedes the metal ones.
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      04-20-2018, 12:37 PM   #27
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Try the f10 slave part number I mentioned earlier. It uses a separate CDV similar to E9X style. But modifying the f30 slave is not hard at all.
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      04-20-2018, 05:05 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by TurboAra View Post
Try the f10 slave part number I mentioned earlier. It uses a separate CDV similar to E9X style. But modifying the f30 slave is not hard at all.
The F10 slave looks the same, costs $20 more than the E90...because M.
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      04-22-2018, 11:43 AM   #29
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Try the f10 slave part number I mentioned earlier. It uses a separate CDV similar to E9X style. But modifying the f30 slave is not hard at all.
So how did the modification turn out?

How are the 1/2/3 aggressive shifts?
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      04-22-2018, 03:33 PM   #30
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So how did the modification turn out?

How are the 1/2/3 aggressive shifts?
Grabs harder and downshifts are more precise too. My clutch still slipping a little bit but I think thatís because there is oil in the bellhousing from a leaking rear main seal I wish I did this the first day I got the car.
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      04-25-2018, 09:16 PM   #31
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OK I did this yesterday and took some pix for you all to get a good idea of how this mod gets done. Thanks to TurboAra for being a pioneer!

Tools
13mm socket
13mm crow foot wrench was helpful
1/2" and 3/8" ratchets, extensions and wobble connectors
Vise grips
Drill with drill bits of 1/8", one size smaller and one size smaller yet
Syringe with tubing, brake fluid

The slave is held on by 2 13mm bolts at 12 and 6. It's tight up there in the tranny tunnel, hence the need for extensions and wobble connectors. I used 1/2" with socket, 3/8" with crow foot. You'll find what works best for you.

Start by removing the lower bolt, then the upper. I found using a crow foot for the lower to be easier. You'll do the upper bolt blind because it's high in the tranny tunnel. Use a long extension and then a wobble with another long extension to get your wrench out of the tunnel.

After the slave is unbolted, clamp the hose with vise grips that have poly tubing fitted over the jaws. Or some other means of clamping. Flip up the locking clip on the hard line/hose connection (careful with the clip-it'll fly off) and separate them. Remove the assembly. Flip up the locking clip on the hard line/slave body connection and pull them apart. The hard line should have a conical shaped seal on its end. If not, it's in the slave, so just pull it out and put it on the hard line. Look inside the slave and see a rubber washer and a metal piece with a tiny hole in it below. That's the hole you want to enlarge. I couldn't pick these things out, so I took a small drill bit and went at it. Just like what happened with TurboAra, they will get caught on the bit and then easily removed. Now complete the enlargement of the hole finishing with a 1/8" bit. I held the metal restrictor with pliers while I drilled. Don't hold too tight or you'll bend the flanges.
Last thing - fill a syringe with brake fluid, attach a hose to the syringe and to the drain valve on the slave. Push a lot of brake fluid through the slave to wash out any metal filings from drilling. Close the valve. Replace the metal restrictor and rubber washer, reattach the hard line to the slave and hard line to hose, remove the vise grips. Apply a little grease to the end of the tip at the bellows. Install the slave.
Remove the cap to the brake fluid reservoir and some fluid. Reattach the syringe to the valve, open the valve and backfill the slave. Do it slowly and air will be driven up the line and out the reservoir. Close the valve, check the brake pedal and if OK, adjust the fluid level in the reservoir.
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      04-25-2018, 10:00 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jparnes1 View Post
OK I did this yesterday and took some pix for you all to get a good idea of how this mod gets done. Thanks to TurboAra for being a pioneer!

Tools
13mm socket
13mm crow foot wrench was helpful
1/2" and 3/8" ratchets, extensions and wobble connectors
Vise grips
Drill with drill bits of 1/8", one size smaller and one size smaller yet
Syringe with tubing, brake fluid

The slave is held on by 2 13mm bolts at 12 and 6. It's tight up there in the tranny tunnel, hence the need for extensions and wobble connectors. I used 1/2" with socket, 3/8" with crow foot. You'll find what works best for you.

Start by removing the lower bolt, then the upper. I found using a crow foot for the lower to be easier. You'll do the upper bolt blind because it's high in the tranny tunnel. Use a long extension and then a wobble with another long extension to get your wrench out of the tunnel.

After the slave is unbolted, clamp the hose with vise grips that have poly tubing fitted over the jaws. Or some other means of clamping. Flip up the locking clip on the hard line/hose connection (careful with the clip-it'll fly off) and separate them. Remove the assembly. Flip up the locking clip on the hard line/slave body connection and pull them apart. The hard line should have a conical shaped seal on its end. If not, it's in the slave, so just pull it out and put it on the hard line. Look inside the slave and see a rubber washer and a metal piece with a tiny hole in it below. That's the hole you want to enlarge. I couldn't pick these things out, so I took a small drill bit and went at it. Just like what happened with TurboAra, they will get caught on the bit and then easily removed. Now complete the enlargement of the hole finishing with a 1/8" bit. I held the metal restrictor with pliers while I drilled. Don't hold too tight or you'll bend the flanges.
Last thing - fill a syringe with brake fluid, attach a hose to the syringe and to the drain valve on the slave. Push a lot of brake fluid through the slave to wash out any metal filings from drilling. Close the valve. Replace the metal restrictor and rubber washer, reattach the hard line to the slave and hard line to hose, remove the vise grips. Apply a little grease to the end of the tip at the bellows. Install the slave.
Remove the cap to the brake fluid reservoir and some fluid. Reattach the syringe to the valve, open the valve and backfill the slave. Do it slowly and air will be driven up the line and out the reservoir. Close the valve, check the brake pedal and if OK, adjust the fluid level in the reservoir.
And is there a noticeable difference in how the car shifts and how the clutch engages/disengages?
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      04-26-2018, 03:40 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jparnes1 View Post
OK I did this yesterday and took some pix for you all to get a good idea of how this mod gets done. Thanks to TurboAra for being a pioneer!

Tools
13mm socket
13mm crow foot wrench was helpful
1/2" and 3/8" ratchets, extensions and wobble connectors
Vise grips
Drill with drill bits of 1/8", one size smaller and one size smaller yet
Syringe with tubing, brake fluid

The slave is held on by 2 13mm bolts at 12 and 6. It's tight up there in the tranny tunnel, hence the need for extensions and wobble connectors. I used 1/2" with socket, 3/8" with crow foot. You'll find what works best for you.

Start by removing the lower bolt, then the upper. I found using a crow foot for the lower to be easier. You'll do the upper bolt blind because it's high in the tranny tunnel. Use a long extension and then a wobble with another long extension to get your wrench out of the tunnel.

After the slave is unbolted, clamp the hose with vise grips that have poly tubing fitted over the jaws. Or some other means of clamping. Flip up the locking clip on the hard line/hose connection (careful with the clip-it'll fly off) and separate them. Remove the assembly. Flip up the locking clip on the hard line/slave body connection and pull them apart. The hard line should have a conical shaped seal on its end. If not, it's in the slave, so just pull it out and put it on the hard line. Look inside the slave and see a rubber washer and a metal piece with a tiny hole in it below. That's the hole you want to enlarge. I couldn't pick these things out, so I took a small drill bit and went at it. Just like what happened with TurboAra, they will get caught on the bit and then easily removed. Now complete the enlargement of the hole finishing with a 1/8" bit. I held the metal restrictor with pliers while I drilled. Don't hold too tight or you'll bend the flanges.
Last thing - fill a syringe with brake fluid, attach a hose to the syringe and to the drain valve on the slave. Push a lot of brake fluid through the slave to wash out any metal filings from drilling. Close the valve. Replace the metal restrictor and rubber washer, reattach the hard line to the slave and hard line to hose, remove the vise grips. Apply a little grease to the end of the tip at the bellows. Install the slave.
Remove the cap to the brake fluid reservoir and some fluid. Reattach the syringe to the valve, open the valve and backfill the slave. Do it slowly and air will be driven up the line and out the reservoir. Close the valve, check the brake pedal and if OK, adjust the fluid level in the reservoir.
bravo!! Nice pics, you just joined the smooth non jerky 1st to 2nd shift club.
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      04-26-2018, 07:44 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akgambino View Post
And is there a noticeable difference in how the car shifts and how the clutch engages/disengages?
Absolutely. Understand that the CDV delays clutch engagement by limited the flow of fluid. Without it you now have complete control of the clutch.
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      04-26-2018, 09:29 AM   #35
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I guess I'm next... thanks for the writeup. It doesn't look too bad. I was getting concerned this thread is dying.

I put the full thickness BMS clutch stop back in the other day and it is much better, however I got a grind into second gear twice which never happened before. The second one was a very nasty metal shavings everywhere grind. I'm going to go remove that today and bin it. I can't have that.
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      04-26-2018, 09:45 AM   #36
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I'll be doing this as well. Thanks again OP and jparnes1.
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      04-26-2018, 10:16 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
I guess I'm next... thanks for the writeup. It doesn't look too bad. I was getting concerned this thread is dying.

I put the full thickness BMS clutch stop back in the other day and it is much better, however I got a grind into second gear twice which never happened before. The second one was a very nasty metal shavings everywhere grind. I'm going to go remove that today and bin it. I can't have that.
I have used the full bms stop in my car for a while, I never had any grinding problems, does the clutch engage right away with the stop installed or is there some room to before the engagement point.
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      04-26-2018, 10:32 AM   #38
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With all 3 rubber washers, there's very little room at the bottom of the pedal (which is how I like it). However I think a little more travel is needed to ensure full disengagement every time. I've had it with 0 washers just the stopper itself for a long time and _never had a problem.

I'll stick with the extra travel and live with it. It's just adapting to the higher catch point, not a big deal. That grind, very big deal...

I guess that metal piece pictured above would also delay disengagement as the fluid still goes through that small restrictive diameter just the other direction.
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      04-28-2018, 10:07 PM   #39
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Wow, I've been waiting for this for 5 years! Great find TurboAra and great write up jparnes1! I want to say I've gotten my 1-2 shifts down pretty smooth throughout the years; going back to regular shifting will take some getting used to.
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      04-29-2018, 10:22 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jparnes1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by akgambino View Post
And is there a noticeable difference in how the car shifts and how the clutch engages/disengages?
Absolutely. Understand that the CDV delays clutch engagement by limited the flow of fluid. Without it you now have complete control of the clutch.
Ok, I only asked because people talked about it being a must mod on the e46 m3 and I did it on mine after about a year of driving it with the cdv in tact and noticed like no difference whatsoever.
I think sometimes with this stuff people sort of hype it up like it is something super noticeable when it really isn't and just get the ol placebo effect.
But ya if you think it makes a massive differ nice and is noticeable, that's cool. I probably won't drill a hole in a bmw manufactured part so the clutch will be easier/smoother/faster operating because I find it to be all of those things already.
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      04-29-2018, 11:19 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
With all 3 rubber washers, there's very little room at the bottom of the pedal (which is how I like it). However I think a little more travel is needed to ensure full disengagement every time. I've had it with 0 washers just the stopper itself for a long time and _never had a problem.

I'll stick with the extra travel and live with it. It's just adapting to the higher catch point, not a big deal. That grind, very big deal...

I guess that metal piece pictured above would also delay disengagement as the fluid still goes through that small restrictive diameter just the other direction.
I preferred the travel with all three washers, but I could tell the clutch was still a little bit engaged even with the pedal depressed all the way. The car would lurch on startup a very tiny amount with the car in gear, so I removed one of the washers and it's all good now.

Definitely that's your problem
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      04-29-2018, 11:50 AM   #42
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Yeah I threw the whole thing in the trash the other day but am having second thoughts .. the OEM stop sucks. I will probably go dig it out lol and try two or one washer instead of all 3 which was no bueno.

I went and got the crowfoot set yesterday and some brake fluid etc. But I couldn't find one of those syringe things at any store ... Where are you guys getting those if not online?
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      04-29-2018, 06:44 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
Yeah I threw the whole thing in the trash the other day but am having second thoughts .. the OEM stop sucks. I will probably go dig it out lol and try two or one washer instead of all 3 which was no bueno.

I went and got the crowfoot set yesterday and some brake fluid etc. But I couldn't find one of those syringe things at any store ... Where are you guys getting those if not online?
Any CVS or pharmacy should have them
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      04-30-2018, 10:09 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboAra View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
Yeah I threw the whole thing in the trash the other day but am having second thoughts .. the OEM stop sucks. I will probably go dig it out lol and try two or one washer instead of all 3 which was no bueno.

I went and got the crowfoot set yesterday and some brake fluid etc. But I couldn't find one of those syringe things at any store ... Where are you guys getting those if not online?
Any CVS or pharmacy should have them
Try to get the largest one you can find. It's just more convenient not having to remove the syringe to refill. I got mine on amazon. It comes with a tube but you'll need to get one with a larger diameter to fit the valve. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KIBYN4A..._UmY5AbW1H34DP
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