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      03-12-2015, 05:01 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squidlyboy View Post
Definitely! I'd like to compare it to the list of parts that roxxor provided to see if anything has been superceded or other alternate part numbers will work also. I think anyone doing this retrofit would benefit from your list. Thanks!!
Here's the parts I used:
66209261582 PDC sensors (8)**
66202339614 Rear PDC retrofit kit*
(originally: 66202296991)
66202338070 Front PDC Install kit*
51128059970 PDC Mounts
61319252913 Center console switch PDC & Surround View
OR 61319252912 Center console switch PDC
61129313607 Front apron cables for PDC
61359329700 REM for PDC (I didn't have the needed pins in original REM)

I used ECS Tuning for sourcing all parts except:
* which I got from PartsSale, based on Roxxor's advise
** which I got from VataPro on eBay; they make these in either black or white and they are MUCH LESS expensive than OEM parts; all you have to do is paint with touch up paint.

The two BMW instructions (EBA) are:
EBA 2295839 Rear PDC (can't find it right now)
EBA 2338017 Front PDC (see attached, got it from Front PDC DIY thread)

Hope that helps!
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File Type: pdf BMW EBA 2338017 Front PDC Retrofit Instructions.pdf (959.5 KB, 1155 views)
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      03-12-2015, 05:11 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squidlyboy View Post
I just ordered my 66202339614 rear pdc retrofit cable/kit from Partsale.eu (same place roxxor ordered some of his parts). It was only 87 euro ($93 usd) for the cable. I'm getting tired of this us/non-us part availability BS...
SquidBoy,

Try this to help with looking up parts:
http://www.etk.cc/

This is the BMW on-line electronic parts catalog that is updated monthly (currently Feb 15). I use it routinely for my car and other look -ups.

Hope that helps!
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      03-12-2015, 05:15 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Shazsta View Post
Cool beans. When you say cameras do you mean you did top view too?
Shazsta,

Rear and two side (in front fender) cameras -- but, as I said, dealer and I are having some challenges with getting it working
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      03-12-2015, 07:46 PM   #70
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Hopefully you get it working. I thought the surround view needed the 2 side cameras and the 2 mirror cameras?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RSnic View Post
Shazsta,

Rear and two side (in front fender) cameras -- but, as I said, dealer and I are having some challenges with getting it working
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      03-12-2015, 07:57 PM   #71
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can you provide some details of these issues you are having with the cameras? is it coding, wiring, or something else? i was originally wanting just the rear camera, but considering the full set if not too difficult to add.
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      03-13-2015, 11:24 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by squidlyboy View Post
can you provide some details of these issues you are having with the cameras? is it coding, wiring, or something else? i was originally wanting just the rear camera, but considering the full set if not too difficult to add.
Appreciate you asking!

Since I realized that this retrofit was above my skill level, I got local dealer to do it (took some doing, by the way), but I still have to do the coding; I added to the car's VO 3AG (rear view camera) and 5DL (surround view cameras), rather than 5DK (side view cameras only) because as I read comments in the CAFD for HU_NBT & TRSV (camera control module), seemed like the side view only coding was "stubbed out". I have coded all affected ECUs except TRSV.

For TRSV, I initially injected CAFD associated with car's current I-Step, but keep getting the following:
Transaktions-Report: Aktion: Codierdaten lesen


cafd_00000223-013_009_007 Fehler:
CPS read from ECU "ECUId:TRSVC_0x06" failed! [C070]
negative response error:
code: TIMEOUT P2/T2 occurred
description: P2 timeout on Service RDBI_CPS has error in result: [Severity=2051][ErrorCode=58640][ErrorCodeDescription=resource not available][VendorCode=2142][VendorCodeDescription=P2 timeout occured]; ECU: TRSVC_06_ETHERNET
severity: ERROR
[2130765072]

This error report seems to indicate that the TRSV isn't connected correctly. The shop foreman at the dealer (the one who is actually doing the work) keeps trying to hook the TRSV into the rear entertainment harness and keeps going after yet another connector or saying that the center console switch is not getting proper readings. The other other day, after finally getting my hands on the official BMW retrofit instructions (EBA 233866) and studying it and the May 12 Technical Training for F30 from Bimmerpost (ST113), I have asked that he connect up the camera system just like the rear view only since the only difference I can see are the two extra cameras with connecting HSD lines, which allow for receipt of camera signal and provide power and instructions to cameras; of course, the coding will make the car "act" differently

We'll see, just want to get this done

Thanks for any ideas and allowing me to gripe some!
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      03-13-2015, 12:53 PM   #73
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I absolutely love this thread!!!! i've become obsessed with this project & have been for months. We just had our 1st child on 2/28/15 so finding time to work on this has been challenging to say the least. And the weather hasn't cooperated much until this past weekend.

I sanded the Sensors down (no matter how much i tried to lightly sand with even as high as 2000 grit sandpaper, I ended up going down to what looked like bare metal... I hope i didn't ruin the sensor). I put a couple of coats of Glacier Silver touchup paint & sanded smooth & applied the clear coat. Does it look 100% factory.. hell no.. would anyone other than myself ever notice??? I don't think so (and I can't begin to tell you how picky I am). Drilling the holes in the bumper was really nerve racking, but using a step bit is def. the way to go.

I got stumped along the way on a few things, so here are some additional photos that might help you out as you try to tackle this project:

Roxxor mentions some bolts to remove above, here are some photos of them:

I had (3) 10mm bolts in the center of the bumper, on my lower valence:



There are (4) 8mm bolts to remove (2) on each side: I also removed the 2 to the left but I don't think they were holding the bumper on



There are (2) 8mm bolts & (1) Hex screw on the inside wheel well fender. With the rear wheel on, they are a real pain to get too but you can definitely remove these bolts/screws with the wheel still on

The real hard one of to get to mainly b/c the lining partially covers up the screw head. When trying to locate this screw, step back & notice where the bumper meets the fender, then lie on the ground looking up & you will see it



(2) 8mm bolts - Ignore the bolt to the right, there will be 2 on the left hand side



Pic of the bolts removed



Rather than cut the OEM grommet as mentioned above, i actually drilled a new hole. I used a 1-3/4" hole bit for metal, but if I were to do this over again I would use a 1-1/2" bit b/c the 1-3/4" is just a tad too big to hold the new grommet securely. You will see the pilot hole

Bi-Metal 1-3/4" hole bit (you can get a lowe's. read below on my comments though)



The Pilot hole drilled. I test fitted the previous bracket to make sure there was no interference before drilling



Outside fitted


Inside after all fitted. I ended up adding some silicone to both sides just in case: Didn't get a photo of that:


Now onto the drilling bumper: Here is the bit i used. I applied some painters tape so i knew where to stop as this bit would be too big if I went all the way to the end



Holes came out super clean, the hole is perfect despite this photo. something in the background is making that hole not look completely round but trust me it is:



Sensors painted Glacier Silver... not super clean but the best I could do. 1 light coat left paint lines. So i put several coats on to fill in the lines. then i wet sanded with 2000 grit sand paper. Best i could get it, a spray paint finish would be much better in IMO



Now putting the sensor in the hole was tricky. The 3M tape they used on the clip grabs instantly. Would be nice to have some wiggle room to line up the sensor... I did 2 of the 4 good, not crazy about the other 2. That was difficult. I would suggest getting the bumper up to eye level like on a work bench so you could come in from behind at eye level. I tried to do this on the ground & I got inconsistent results



Not crazy about the paint on a few of the sensors, but that is with flash on my camera. You can see I didn't get this one lined up 100%


Really not happy with this one but I didn't want to pull it back & risk the adhesive part of the 3M tape. When i do the front bumper I will def. put my bumper on my work bench & get eye level. Would anyone else notice, probably not.. but it will be the only thing i look at when i look at my rear bumper. This is more difficult on non black cars

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      03-13-2015, 10:56 PM   #74
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Been watching this thread for a while and was hoping to put this in because rear visibility on the F30 sucks.

Not thrilled by having to code for a new REM and other things to make this work. Sounds like I'd have to revise anytime the dealer updates my car. What about my MPPK if have to revise for a new REM?

Never had to hack my car before so I'm worried about how much coding maintenance I will have to do. Can anyone share some insight?

Thx.
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      03-14-2015, 01:09 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSnic View Post
Thanks for any ideas and allowing me to gripe some!
Wow... i had no idea. Sorry to hear about all the issues, but all this is definitely over my head. Hope you find the answers you're looking for.. I'm kinda leaning away from doing the surround view setup since it seems pretty complicated. That plus the fact that each camera is about $350 a piece, putting the camera costs alone over $1k

Quote:
Originally Posted by steelerfan View Post
I absolutely love this thread!!!! i've become obsessed with this project & have been for months. We just had our 1st child on 2/28/15 so finding time to work on this has been challenging to say the least.
hey steelerfan - congrats on the new addition to your family! Yeah, i'm surprised the wifey lets you out to do these projects with the new little one haha... good for you! I know these things will suck the time out of entire weekend for me I really appreciate the excellent write-up! What i love most about it is that you filled in a lot of the gaps that i had questions about after reading through roxxor's writeup. Between the two write-ups, a pretty comprehensive DIY is the result, and a lot of the details of the install process that were a bit hazy before in my mind is now crystalizing. Thanks again!! to both of you!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by steelerfan View Post
Rather than cut the OEM grommet as mentioned above, i actually drilled a new hole. I used a 1-3/4" hole bit for metal, but if I were to do this over again I would use a 1-1/2" bit b/c the 1-3/4" is just a tad too big to hold the new grommet securely. The Pilot hole drilled. I test fitted the previous bracket to make sure there was no interference before drilling

Thanks for this! This was super helpful. I'm usually not a fan of drilling new holes in the car, but man, your work here has such a clean OEM finish to it, i think i'm going to do that. I didn't realize until looking at roxxor's original parts pic that the grommet comes with the cable kit, so it looks like everything is there for a clean hole to be drilled, and wires managed properly to feed through the new hole. Incidentally, i found BMW's Rear PDC Install Guide PDF (attached it here), and it said this:
Drill out the punch point on the closing panel underneath the right rear light to 40mm with a step drill, debur the hole, and treat it with customary BMW anti-corrosion measures.
So the 1.5" diameter hole you recommended is spot-on with the install guide.

Quote:
Originally Posted by steelerfan View Post
Drilling the holes in the bumper was really nerve racking, but using a step bit is def. the way to go. Now onto the drilling bumper: Here is the bit i used. I applied some painters tape so i knew where to stop as this bit would be too big if I went all the way to the end. Holes came out super clean, the hole is perfect despite this photo. something in the background is making that hole not look completely round but trust me it is:



Now putting the sensor in the hole was tricky. The 3M tape they used on the clip grabs instantly. Would be nice to have some wiggle room to line up the sensor... I did 2 of the 4 good, not crazy about the other 2. That was difficult. I would suggest getting the bumper up to eye level like on a work bench so you could come in from behind at eye level. I tried to do this on the ground & I got inconsistent results

This Nice job on the drilling. Super clean and OEM look for sure! I'll be thrilled if mine comes close to being as clean as yours. And thanks for the detailed info here covering a lot of the gotcha's. SOOO helpful.. you have no idea. Some questions:
  1. Do you remember what step level you went to with the drill bit before you stopped? I recall reading somewhere that these sensors are 18mm or that they required 18mm (0.70866 inch) holes. Not sure where i read that. But this would be is a tad smaller than 3/4". I was actually looking to get a metric step drill bit to do this work because i wanted them perfect. Being that you punched perfect holes with a standard step-drill bit, i was just curious what hole size you ended up with? Because they DO look perfect.
  2. How is the 3m tape used in this situation? Seems the rubber decoupling ring that acts as a grommet to hold the sensor in place against the hole is enough to keep them in place...
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File Type: pdf BMW-Rear-PDC-Retrofit-Install-Guide.pdf (456.1 KB, 1732 views)
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      03-14-2015, 09:47 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squidlyboy View Post
Wow... i had no idea. Sorry to hear about all the issues, but all this is definitely over my head. Hope you find the answers you're looking for.. I'm kinda leaning away from doing the surround view setup since it seems pretty complicated. That plus the fact that each camera is about $350 a piece, putting the camera costs alone over $1k

This Nice job on the drilling. Super clean and OEM look for sure! I'll be thrilled if mine comes close to being as clean as yours. And thanks for the detailed info here covering a lot of the gotcha's. SOOO helpful.. you have no idea. Some questions:
  1. Do you remember what step level you went to with the drill bit before you stopped? I recall reading somewhere that these sensors are 18mm or that they required 18mm (0.70866 inch) holes. Not sure where i read that. But this would be is a tad smaller than 3/4". I was actually looking to get a metric step drill bit to do this work because i wanted them perfect. Being that you punched perfect holes with a standard step-drill bit, i was just curious what hole size you ended up with? Because they DO look perfect.
  2. How is the 3m tape used in this situation? Seems the rubber decoupling ring that acts as a grommet to hold the sensor in place against the hole is enough to keep them in place...
To your questions squid:
1. On the Rear PDC they are an 18mm hole. If you have the M-Sport front bumper, the two inner sensors require a 30mm hole to accommodate the brackets. Otherwise, the front are 18mm as well.

2. The 3m tape he is referring to is on the brackets for the PDC sensors. They line up on the backside of the bumper and attached by the 3m tape. The PDC sensors then clip into the brackets.

Also, if you eBay hunt, you can get the cameras for way less than $350 each.

I am excited at all the comments/posts on this thread and glad to see it has helped so many!!
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      03-14-2015, 09:52 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSnic View Post

Thanks for any ideas and allowing me to gripe some!
That's really odd. I would think that it would work the same as the rear camera retrofit, just connect the cameras to the trsvc and then connect the trsvc to the car, then code it. Have they considered possibly a problem with the trsvc? Or does the rear camera work fine?
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      03-14-2015, 01:59 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roxxor View Post
That's really odd. I would think that it would work the same as the rear camera retrofit, just connect the cameras to the trsvc and then connect the trsvc to the car, then code it. Have they considered possibly a problem with the trsvc? Or does the rear camera work fine?
Roxxor,

That's exactly the way I considered it. The only difference between the two configurations is that side view has 5-input TRSV and extra cameras connected, while rear only has TRSV with only one input and one camera.

The foreman is talking to some engineer who has him tying into the rear entertainment wiring harness (apparently that is in car); he has had add different connectors and now claims the console switch is not getting proper readings so they claim it is the switch. I am pushing him to just complete the connection as per the rear camera BMW retro instructions. Am going to see him on Monday
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      03-14-2015, 02:15 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squidlyboy View Post
Wow... i had no idea. Sorry to hear about all the issues, but all this is definitely over my head. Hope you find the answers you're looking for.. I'm kinda leaning away from doing the surround view setup since it seems pretty complicated. That plus the fact that each camera is about $350 a piece, putting the camera costs alone over $1k
SquidBoy,

I got both side view cameras on eBay for about $110 each and they were new; also, the top view cameras (mirror) are also listed sometimes
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      03-14-2015, 05:48 PM   #80
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i need some assistance fellas.... So bear in mind I'm only doing the Rear PDC at this time (only time i can get out of the house right now, so doing this phases)

So i finally coded my car today for the 1st time w/ ESys.. i added some features i've been wanting for a while..

I added option 507 & I only VO coded the REM module... when i put the car in reverse nothing happens.. however if i backup near something i get audible alerts... just no images on the screen. I also don't have an option to edit the volume for the PDC.

I didn't code the ICM too. I find it odd that i had a similar problem as Koch92 (meaning we both didn't do the VO code at all). He coded both the REM & ICM & at least he was getting something on his display. He didn't look like he had Nav. I only did the REM as it was suggesting that ICM shouldn't be related if not doing front PDC at the same time. Wonder if I need to code the ICM too???

I noticed that Roxxor said he coded all the ECU's to be on the save side. I would really prefer not to do that as I would have to code everything over again.

When i watch the video by Token he points out that if you use the Code option you will set that module back to they way it was from the factory. He makes out like you should never use that option & most definitely never use Code default.

Is there a different between "Read SVT & Read ECU"? I did Read ECU, activated FA w/ option 507 changes & then right clicked on REM --> Code. Is that different that Read SVT??? I'm so close but yet so far away..)...
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      03-14-2015, 09:04 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelerfan View Post
i need some assistance fellas.... So bear in mind I'm only doing the Rear PDC at this time (only time i can get out of the house right now, so doing this phases)

So i finally coded my car today for the 1st time w/ ESys.. i added some features i've been wanting for a while..

I added option 507 & I only VO coded the REM module... when i put the car in reverse nothing happens.. however if i backup near something i get audible alerts... just no images on the screen. I also don't have an option to edit the volume for the PDC.

I didn't code the ICM too. I find it odd that i had a similar problem as Koch92 (meaning we both didn't do the VO code at all). He coded both the REM & ICM & at least he was getting something on his display. He didn't look like he had Nav. I only did the REM as it was suggesting that ICM shouldn't be related if not doing front PDC at the same time. Wonder if I need to code the ICM too???

I noticed that Roxxor said he coded all the ECU's to be on the save side. I would really prefer not to do that as I would have to code everything over again.

When i watch the video by Token he points out that if you use the Code option you will set that module back to they way it was from the factory. He makes out like you should never use that option & most definitely never use Code default.

Is there a different between "Read SVT & Read ECU"? I did Read ECU, activated FA w/ option 507 changes & then right clicked on REM --> Code. Is that different that Read SVT??? I'm so close but yet so far away..)...
try VO coding your head unit (either hu_cic Hu_entry or hu_cic) as well.
i had to do that for someones car with pdc retrofitted

read SVT means you are reading the ECU's based on your VO (vehicle order) codes this does not check to see if the ECU is actually available.
read ECU means you read the ACTUAL ECUs plugged into your car.

Also judging by the install manual from BMW (if you get front pdc) you need to run a wire from the switch to the ICM module. in that case you may need to code icm as well. as it may not be programmed to take any input from that pin until you tell it to.
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      03-15-2015, 11:07 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelerfan View Post
i need some assistance fellas.... So bear in mind I'm only doing the Rear PDC at this time (only time i can get out of the house right now, so doing this phases)

So i finally coded my car today for the 1st time w/ ESys.. i added some features i've been wanting for a while..

I added option 507 & I only VO coded the REM module... when i put the car in reverse nothing happens.. however if i backup near something i get audible alerts... just no images on the screen. I also don't have an option to edit the volume for the PDC.

I didn't code the ICM too. I find it odd that i had a similar problem as Koch92 (meaning we both didn't do the VO code at all). He coded both the REM & ICM & at least he was getting something on his display. He didn't look like he had Nav. I only did the REM as it was suggesting that ICM shouldn't be related if not doing front PDC at the same time. Wonder if I need to code the ICM too???

I noticed that Roxxor said he coded all the ECU's to be on the save side. I would really prefer not to do that as I would have to code everything over again.

When i watch the video by Token he points out that if you use the Code option you will set that module back to they way it was from the factory. He makes out like you should never use that option & most definitely never use Code default.

Is there a different between "Read SVT & Read ECU"? I did Read ECU, activated FA w/ option 507 changes & then right clicked on REM --> Code. Is that different that Read SVT??? I'm so close but yet so far away..)...
SteelerFan,

While I agree with you on not VO coding every ECU, I use TokenMaster's NC/CAFD tool (you can get at:http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...light=ncd+cafd) to help figure out what ECUs are affected. In this case, HU_NBT should also be VO coded. BTW, if you use this tool, you can read CAFD/NCD files and associated comments to get a feel for further coding -- in other words, I recommend this tool as a must have for for future coding efforts.

I also looked at option 508 (front & rear PDCs) in NCD/CAFD tool, which indicates that REM, ICM & HU_NBT are affected by option 508. Again, not fool proof, but a big help

Here's my cheatsheet that I compiled based upon ShawnSheridan's advice:
  • Make needed changes to FA/VO (usually to SALAPA option list -- new ones must be in order and separated by a comma)
  • Go through connection steps
  • Right click & Activate edited FA/VO
  • Click on Read SVT(VCM) [if needed ECU doesn't appear, then click on Read ECU]
  • Right click on needed ECU (NOT the associated CAFD)
  • Select Code
  • Repeat above for each affected ECU

Hope that helps!
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Last edited by RSnic; 03-15-2015 at 12:04 PM.. Reason: Addition
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      03-15-2015, 12:14 PM   #83
steelerfan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squidlyboy View Post

This Nice job on the drilling. Super clean and OEM look for sure! I'll be thrilled if mine comes close to being as clean as yours. And thanks for the detailed info here covering a lot of the gotcha's. SOOO helpful.. you have no idea. Some questions:
  1. Do you remember what step level you went to with the drill bit before you stopped? I recall reading somewhere that these sensors are 18mm or that they required 18mm (0.70866 inch) holes. Not sure where i read that. But this would be is a tad smaller than 3/4". I was actually looking to get a metric step drill bit to do this work because i wanted them perfect. Being that you punched perfect holes with a standard step-drill bit, i was just curious what hole size you ended up with? Because they DO look perfect.
  2. How is the 3m tape used in this situation? Seems the rubber decoupling ring that acts as a grommet to hold the sensor in place against the hole is enough to keep them in place...
Hey squidlyboy,

Believe Roxxor addressed most of this already...

This is a tad smaller than 3/4. So on the step bit I put masking tape at the 3/4 level. When you use a step bit, it sorta pulls through to the next step so you have to be careful, it's really hard to stop in between. As soon as I felt it pull to the 3/4 i stopped. You can test fit with the bracket & the sensor w/ the rubber ring in the bracket, just don't remove the 3m tape. I would really recommend finding a 18mm bit on Amazon or something so there is no guessing. I did use packaging tape on the outside of the bumper & drilled from the inside. I didn't have to debur much if anything, i just folded sandpaper in a circle (believe i used 400 or 600, sorry i have like every grit so don't recall) & just ran over the holes if there was any piece sticking up. The step bit is the key.

As for drilling a new hole of the grommet.. i would again suggest getting a 40mm step bit. That way you can always make the hole larger if you stop prior & test the fitment. With a hole bit you get one shot. Would error on smaller & then use a dremel if needed if you don't go a step bit.

Hope this helps!!!
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      03-17-2015, 09:18 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by squidlyboy View Post
Hmm.. interesting. Never heard of 61119293040, but at $21, seems a little too good to be true. In the realoem diagram, its #3. I see that box-like thing a lot when i look up parts on realoem, but not sure what it means.. anyone know?

The other two cables in the diagram (1 and 2) are over a hundred dollars each and seem more like what is needed, but i don't recognize those part numbers either. They are not the 614 we've been talking about
I went ahead and ordered the wire from ecs tuning. It was $26 shipped so I figured that was cheap enough to risk it. I'll only be out $26 and time that could have been spent waiting for the rear retrofit kit to come from overseas.
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      03-17-2015, 01:23 PM   #85
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Does anyone know the difference between REM 61359329704 and 61359329700? They look identical to me
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      03-18-2015, 10:58 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by roxxor View Post
That is interesting, normally the error would say "Park Distance Control", not parking assistance... If you have team viewer installed I would be more than happy to take a look at the coding part just to make sure everything is correct.
Please let me know when you available to have a look at mine, I'll appriciate it a lot! I have been stuck at that point still and haven't made any changes due to being very busy atm.
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      03-18-2015, 11:53 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shazsta View Post
Does anyone know the difference between REM 61359329704 and 61359329700? They look identical to me
In zooming in on the one really tiny picture I was able to find on the internet for the 704, it looks like it is missing a couple of the long flat pins that are right below the pins for the PDC. I'm not at home to be able to look up what those pins are for, but suffice it to say if you had one of the accessories/options that needed them, then the 704 wouldn't work. I'm also not sure about the far right connector of the REM since my picture doesn't include the pins, but the 704 looks like some are missing from that section as well.
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      03-18-2015, 12:11 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roxxor View Post
In zooming in on the one really tiny picture I was able to find on the internet for the 704, it looks like it is missing a couple of the long flat pins that are right below the pins for the PDC. I'm not at home to be able to look up what those pins are for, but suffice it to say if you had one of the accessories/options that needed them, then the 704 wouldn't work. I'm also not sure about the far right connector of the REM since my picture doesn't include the pins, but the 704 looks like some are missing from that section as well.
Ok thanks for checking
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