[JoHnMuir]

Originally Posted by Robs335iproblems

I tried the VANOS test in ISTA for the intake solenoid

Could you detail your ISTA setup (version number, connection type)? My setup just does not show any VANOS related ABLs whatsoever, over several versions with the latest being 4.32.15. Using an ENET cable for a connection, but I feel like that should not be an issue since it lets me do other ABLs.

[gantona]

Thx to the OP for all these details…

How did you manage to log vanos angle ?
I looked nearly everywhere in BM3 app without success

[JoHnMuir]

Originally Posted by VVlasy

I replaced both of the actuators. It solved the bucking, but also rough 1-2 shift on cold start. Hard shifts on sport+ (kinda miss those tbh but can be solved by xHD tune, which I originally bought solve some issues). Hard downshifts, especially 1 and 2. Jerking when applying and releasing throttle, especially noticeable when the torque converter wasn't locked, stop and go traffic was really a chore. I actually thought I had an issue with the transmission, but the actuators were the cause all along.

I performed this repair on my car today and it did solve all of the issues described here for me. It also decreased the noise at low RPM/high load and startup. The engine also produces less vibration. I guess engine timing is important, who knew? The car is perfectly smooth, except for normal ZF clunkiness. Since few people seem to log with ISTA, I'll try to explain what I saw on my logs. For me, I didn't see this sawtooth pattern show by others in this thread, but instead when a new cam position angle was requested by the computer, the intake cam position was fairly slow to react (several tenths of a second) and was off by more than 4 degrees much of the time. BMW doesn't really give any data regarding what is normal, so it can be hard to decipher what you're seeing. Another possible sign you have a problem with these units is that, once you undertake the repair, you will notice the problematic actuator has an actuating rod that is slow to move when you tilt the unit. Good units will have an actuating rod that falls out nearly instantly when tilted slightly.

[Aldor27]

Originally Posted by Robs335iproblems

SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The issue did come down to the intake VANOS Actuator. P/N 11367614288 A stupid $61 part was the culprit behind all of this hideous driving.

A few things I learned...

1. No codes. That's what makes it so hard to find. And when I ran ISTA, the first time, it passed. If you take it to a dealer, they'll probably see the same thing which is why they can't offer a solution.
2. They seem to die slowly. This did not happen overnight. It was a long slow progression over the last 6-8 months when I first felt like the car surged until now, when it was nearly undrivable.
3. They are easy to replace. Don't listen to any other post regarding B58 engines needing to be dropped to get to the actuator. It's not any harder than replacing spark plugs. You'll need to remove the cross bar brace and cowling, but it's only a handful of bolts. No special tools needed. Watch the video and about half way though, he explains how to get to the actuator.

4. They are probably going to fail often, which is why a lot of people report having the surging issue. My dealer had 4 in stock and the part's guy said, yeah, we have a bunch so they do go bad.
5. It's amazing how poorly the car drove. Since it happens over time, you can't feel had badly it's gotten until it's replaced. Now that it's fixed, I can't believe how smoothly it drives.
6. This is only a fix for the surging at mid level RPM. I will say that sometimes, when it was bad, even starting out I'd feel a surge, but mainly, it was felt during the mid-level RPM driving. There is a SIB (recall) for DME reprograming, which is intended to fix some minor drivability issues. Make sure you have that done first and then attack the actuator.
7. This only applies to B58. The VANOS system for the N series engines is different. While a VANOS may fix those issues, this problem seems to be only on B58 with the actuator being the fix.
8. I think the intake is where the problem lies. I doubt the exhaust would have the same result, so focus on the intake actuator.

Hopefully this gives people hope. Even if you take it to a dealer, insist they replace the actuator, or do it on your own.

Now I can put my BMS intake back on, install my DP and bench unlock my DME so I can retune the car. All I care is that it's back and it feels great.

Mine has been bucking for like a month or two now between the RPMs of 1-1.3k when cruising around 47~50mph. Do you have any videos of it bucking? Anything above 1.3k rpm the car is normal.

[isenc2]

My car simply does not have this issue, it might have done it once but never again. Where I live I often drive up steep inclines, light throttle, heavy throttle, never a problem. Mine is a 2016 340i xDrive, Dinan stage 1 flash. Running at 67k miles rn. Seems like most ppl here are 2017-2018MY that have issues. It does seems to me to be a engine related not transmission. If it's the VANOS system then it makes sense.

[VVlasy]

Originally Posted by JoHnMuir

I performed this repair on my car today and it did solve all of the issues described here for me. It also decreased the noise at low RPM/high load and startup. The engine also produces less vibration. I guess engine timing is important, who knew? The car is perfectly smooth, except for normal ZF clunkiness. Since few people seem to log with ISTA, I'll try to explain what I saw on my logs. For me, I didn't see this sawtooth pattern show by others in this thread, but instead when a new cam position angle was requested by the computer, the intake cam position was fairly slow to react (several tenths of a second) and was off by more than 4 degrees much of the time. BMW doesn't really give any data regarding what is normal, so it can be hard to decipher what you're seeing. Another possible sign you have a problem with these units is that, once you undertake the repair, you will notice the problematic actuator has an actuating rod that is slow to move when you tilt the unit. Good units will have an actuating rod that falls out nearly instantly when tilted slightly.

Yeah I have this mentioned in my original post on the first page. That now the car makes less noise at low rpm and high load, which I really enjoyed And as you mention, less vibration on cold start and in general. The way it should be

[gantona]

Hello,
resurrecting this thread since I'm messing with these issue for couple of weeks.
I discussed a bit about this on the log thread review, but it will be better to stick to the topic here.

So long story short, I'm experiencing the exact same issue as you, low load, low rpm, comfort driving, the car is bucking a bit. If I give more gas, I don't notice it.

It happen either in stock or BM3 stage 1 tune
either RON98 E5 fuel or any E blend from E5 to E25 (always using RON98 + E85)

I got success to log the bucking issue :
https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=62f7...90c6b3130e89b0


AFR is fine
fueling is fine
ignition is fine, no correction
boost is fine : target 0 / actual 1.2 psi max
VANOS target / actual : exact same values... is this a bug ??

We can see the hiccups in the RPM, as well as actual load trying to catch the load request.

Car is nearly at 70k KM, run fine at WOT (tuned or not)
Symptoms definitively look at the VANOS actuator issue, but STFT are fine and logs are telling VANOS is fine too.

I'm worrying about my VANOS logs. Both target and actual are EXACTLY the same. In a real world, target and actual should be close, but never the exact same.
We can see in the attached screenshot from VANOS repair youtube video, his logs from MHD are close on the intake, but all over the place on exhaust.
none of them are identical

So, I see 3 options :
- BM3 VANOS logs are not working correctly
- VANOS is working at the perfection and I don't have any VANOS issue
- I have something else I'm not able to figure out (transmission ??)

what I missing here ?

I will appreciate your help !
Best regards
Guillaume

[gantona]

one more to the list !
SOLVED ! YEEEEEES !!!!

A big thanks to VVlasy for all details you shared here. Based on this knowledge, I was able to diagnose, and prepare actuator replacement.

What I learned :
- simple mechanics can do this at home. I not very skilled, but after reviewing both youtube videos VVlasy shared, you will be able to prepare this operation
- I changed both intake and exhaust. 43 euros tax in each
- bootmod3 VANOS logs don't seems to work correctly. Actual and target are always the same. I took a chance to change actuators with success. So this means logs are not ok
- no need to reset vanos adaptation. it works like a charm right after the swap
- the damn metal clip is damn tough to get back in after fall to the ground

I took some logs, and now everything is as smooth as I feel in the car

below "brand new VANOS actuators" freshly installed logs vs "old actuators"

[Aldor27]

Originally Posted by gantona

one more to the list !
SOLVED ! YEEEEEES !!!!

A big thanks to VVlasy for all details you shared here. Based on this knowledge, I was able to diagnose, and prepare actuator replacement.

What I learned :
- simple mechanics can do this at home. I not very skilled, but after reviewing both youtube videos VVlasy shared, you will be able to prepare this operation
- I changed both intake and exhaust. 43 euros tax in each
- bootmod3 VANOS logs don't seems to work correctly. Actual and target are always the same. I took a chance to change actuators with success. So this means logs are not ok
- no need to reset vanos adaptation. it works like a charm right after the swap
- the damn metal clip is damn tough to get back in after fall to the ground

I took some logs, and now everything is as smooth as I feel in the car

below "brand new VANOS actuators" freshly installed logs vs "old actuators"

Did you have the 21A022D code? I'm seeing that some people get the code and others don't but they experience the same issue. Did you update your dme to the latest firmware then switch out the actuators or did you just switch them out?

[gantona]

No code
No DME update
I also test actuators on ista, it was ok.
But ista check actuator is able to reach position, not how fast it is moving.
I think the issue start with slow actuators. You will feel the bucking like I did.
Then actuators will be slow enough to not be able to reach the position, and you may get a code.

If you feel symptoms we described here, and you’re not able to diagnostic. Start logging load and rpm
Check sport gauges moving at constant throttle

Then change it, it’s a 1h job at home, and less than 100$ parts.

It’s a no brainer

[Aldor27]

Originally Posted by gantona

No code
No DME update
I also test actuators on ista, it was ok.
But ista check actuator is able to reach position, not how fast it is moving.
I think the issue start with slow actuators. You will feel the bucking like I did.
Then actuators will be slow enough to not be able to reach the position, and you may get a code.

If you feel symptoms we described here, and you’re not able to diagnostic. Start logging load and rpm
Check sport gauges moving at constant throttle

Then change it, it’s a 1h job at home, and less than 100$ parts.

It’s a no brainer

Gotcha, yeah I have the code. Under WOT the car is fine. I'll try to log and buy both of the actuators.

[cobrabooya]

Originally Posted by Robs335iproblems

SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The issue did come down to the intake VANOS Actuator. P/N 11367614288 A stupid $61 part was the culprit behind all of this hideous driving.

A few things I learned...

1. No codes. That's what makes it so hard to find. And when I ran ISTA, the first time, it passed. If you take it to a dealer, they'll probably see the same thing which is why they can't offer a solution.
2. They seem to die slowly. This did not happen overnight. It was a long slow progression over the last 6-8 months when I first felt like the car surged until now, when it was nearly undrivable.
3. They are easy to replace. Don't listen to any other post regarding B58 engines needing to be dropped to get to the actuator. It's not any harder than replacing spark plugs. You'll need to remove the cross bar brace and cowling, but it's only a handful of bolts. No special tools needed. Watch the video and about half way though, he explains how to get to the actuator.

4. They are probably going to fail often, which is why a lot of people report having the surging issue. My dealer had 4 in stock and the part's guy said, yeah, we have a bunch so they do go bad.
5. It's amazing how poorly the car drove. Since it happens over time, you can't feel had badly it's gotten until it's replaced. Now that it's fixed, I can't believe how smoothly it drives.
6. This is only a fix for the surging at mid level RPM. I will say that sometimes, when it was bad, even starting out I'd feel a surge, but mainly, it was felt during the mid-level RPM driving. There is a SIB (recall) for DME reprograming, which is intended to fix some minor drivability issues. Make sure you have that done first and then attack the actuator.
7. This only applies to B58. The VANOS system for the N series engines is different. While a VANOS may fix those issues, this problem seems to be only on B58 with the actuator being the fix.
8. I think the intake is where the problem lies. I doubt the exhaust would have the same result, so focus on the intake actuator.

Hopefully this gives people hope. Even if you take it to a dealer, insist they replace the actuator, or do it on your own.

Now I can put my BMS intake back on, install my DP and bench unlock my DME so I can retune the car. All I care is that it's back and it feels great.

I have recently got a 2020 440i, I got to say I am super disappointed how it runs. I am having the exact issue you mentioned. Annoying jerking on low speed/rpm, car feel like pulling back when letting of gas, rpm dips on idle especially during traffic . Brought to dealer they said I have bad tires...ok I replaced 4 , issues not solved.
I am going to have the VANOS Actuator replaced. Hopefully it will solve the issue!!

[ads_ali]

I'm hitting a brick wall with this one.... Has anyone came across this strange beeping sounds on the back of the b48 engine ? It happens on a cold start and then when it reaches the normal temperature it goes away

https://youtube.com/shorts/Qwq5KIAByNI?feature=share

[Aldor27]

Update, I switched out both vanos solenoids and the issue is still there.

[JoHnMuir]

Originally Posted by Aldor27

Update, I switched out both vanos solenoids and the issue is still there.

Did you take any logs?

[gantona]

Originally Posted by Aldor27

Update, I switched out both vanos solenoids and the issue is still there.

you switchs exhaust to intake and intake to exhaust ?
or
you replace them with brand new units ?

[VVlasy]

Originally Posted by Aldor27

Update, I switched out both vanos solenoids and the issue is still there.

And do you still have the DME code as well?

[Aldor27]

Originally Posted by JoHnMuir

Did you take any logs?

I did not

[Aldor27]

Originally Posted by gantona

you switchs exhaust to intake and intake to exhaust ?
or
you replace them with brand new units ?

I replaced both with brand new units.

[Aldor27]

Originally Posted by VVlasy

And do you still have the DME code as well?

I still have the dme code

[JoHnMuir]

I presume you know about the service bulletin related to the code you've got and the software is above the recommended version? If so, then I would log Valvetronic for any weirdness since the code is related to the valve lift. Do you hear any strange noises from the engine when you turn off and lock the car after driving?

[Aldor27]

Originally Posted by JoHnMuir

I presume you know about the service bulletin related to the code you've got and the software is above the recommended version? If so, then I would log Valvetronic for any weirdness since the code is related to the valve lift. Do you hear any strange noises from the engine when you turn off and lock the car after driving?

I'll check today but as far as I remember I don't get any weird noises