[Cytoplasm0671]

Hello! I recently purchased a wonderful 340i M Sport RW MT and am looking at giving it a tune if it can be done responsibly.

Stage 1 tune, planned for late 2022:
Bootmod3 software only. Car already has a custom Dinan exhaust, but no actual items will be installed for this basic tune.

Stage 2 tune, planned for 2023:
Bootmod3 with a CG Precision high-flow catted downpipe and a Dorch Engineering Stage 2 high pressure fuel pump.

Have no plans or desire to go higher than stage 2 (eg: Stage 2+ etc). I'm not trying to mess with my cars UlTimAtE WhP! I just want a nice fast 400-450 whp daily driver.

IF I perform proper maintenance, make sure to use 5W30 BMW LL-1 oil every 5k miles, don't push the engine before its warm, don't track the car, and send in oil to Blackstone to examine it for metal deposits, do you think the car's life will be impacted by this setup?

If a stage 2 tune will probably impact the car's life, what about staying with a Stage 1 tune?

Naturally, there is variance with this. Some engines will get damaged from a light tune and others will be fine despite a heavy Stage 2+ tune. But I guess I'm asking in general. I understand tuning stresses the car. But I'm asking if this plan is, as a generalization, a responsible plan for keeping the car running and healthy long-term. I love my 340i and want to drive it to 200,000 miles.

Best,
Cytoplasm

[thejeremyman9]

The OTS tunes are generally safe. In addition to what you mentioned (maint. and general good practices), make sure you datalog, use quality fuel, and ensure your tune is behaving as it should.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1732327

[Cytoplasm0671]

Thanks

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Cytoplasm0671

Hello! I recently purchased a wonderful 340i M Sport RW MT and am looking at giving it a tune if it can be done responsibly.

Stage 1 tune, planned for late 2022:
Bootmod3 software only. Car already has a custom Dinan exhaust, but no actual items will be installed for this basic tune.

Stage 2 tune, planned for 2023:
Bootmod3 with a CG Precision high-flow catted downpipe and a Dorch Engineering Stage 2 high pressure fuel pump.

Have no plans or desire to go higher than stage 2 (eg: Stage 2+ etc). I'm not trying to mess with my cars UlTimAtE WhP! I just want a nice fast 400-450 whp daily driver.

IF I perform proper maintenance, make sure to use 5W30 BMW LL-1 oil every 5k miles, don't push the engine before its warm, don't track the car, and send in oil to Blackstone to examine it for metal deposits, do you think the car's life will be impacted by this setup?

If a stage 2 tune will probably impact the car's life, what about staying with a Stage 1 tune?

Naturally, there is variance with this. Some engines will get damaged from a light tune and others will be fine despite a heavy Stage 2+ tune. But I guess I'm asking in general. I understand tuning stresses the car. But I'm asking if this plan is, as a generalization, a responsible plan for keeping the car running and healthy long-term. I love my 340i and want to drive it to 200,000 miles.

Best,
Cytoplasm

It appears to me like you have an excellent plan for enjoyment and longevity. I wouldn't expect any out of the ordinary engine issues.

Dorch is excellent but I don't understand your plan to upgrade the HPFP unless you plan to use ethanol fuels and tunes. Shouldn't be necessary with Stage2 93 Octane tunes.

I would suggest upgrading the chargepipe. Not as necessary in the B58 (vs N55) engine but I'd do it if longevity and reliability are goals. Lots of cheap, low quality CP's and leaks are expensive to troubleshoot and repair. FTP makes a high quality chargepipe that is reasonably priced.

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...8;_ss=r?aff=22

I would also suggest upgrading the stock airfilter to an aFe high flow Pro Dry airfilter. It's washable and reusable. See photo.

Hope this helps!

[joeyb26]

I had my car tuned stage 2 for 3 years and roughly 25,000 miles and had 0 issues. Just as others said, keep up with the maintenance and change out spark plugs/oil earlier than you would on a stock car. I never upgraded my fuel pump or charge pipe, with stage 2 I just had the tune and a down pipe

[jmg]

I would swap your charge pipe simply because it's fairly cheap and the OEM is brittle plastic.

[Cytoplasm0671]

Originally Posted by johnung

Dorch is excellent but I don't understand your plan to upgrade the HPFP unless you plan to use ethanol fuels and tunes. Shouldn't be necessary with Stage2 93 Octane tunes.

I would suggest upgrading the chargepipe. Not as necessary in the B58 (vs N55) engine but I'd do it if longevity and reliability are goals. Lots of cheap, low quality CP's and leaks are expensive to troubleshoot and repair. FTP makes a high quality chargepipe that is reasonably priced.

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...a&_ss=r?aff=22

I would also suggest upgrading the stock airfilter to an aFe high flow Pro Dry airfilter. It's washable and reusable. See photo.

The HFPF would be for stage 2+ or stage 2.5. I misspoke in the original post. I meant I have no desire to go beyond 2.5.

The air filter and charge pipe look excellent, thanks

[BHF30N55]

+1 on the preventative charge pipe. You might lose a tiny bit of low end torque with the hi-flow filters, but it's minimal. The B58 is a wonderful engine that will make it much farther than 200k miles. A buddy of mine found this guy which helped him decide on how to upgrade his B58:

[Dasky_spas]

Originally Posted by Cytoplasm0671

Hello! I recently purchased a wonderful 340i M Sport RW MT and am looking at giving it a tune if it can be done responsibly.

Stage 1 tune, planned for late 2022:
Bootmod3 software only. Car already has a custom Dinan exhaust, but no actual items will be installed for this basic tune.

Stage 2 tune, planned for 2023:
Bootmod3 with a CG Precision high-flow catted downpipe and a Dorch Engineering Stage 2 high pressure fuel pump.

Have no plans or desire to go higher than stage 2 (eg: Stage 2+ etc). I'm not trying to mess with my cars UlTimAtE WhP! I just want a nice fast 400-450 whp daily driver.

IF I perform proper maintenance, make sure to use 5W30 BMW LL-1 oil every 5k miles, don't push the engine before its warm, don't track the car, and send in oil to Blackstone to examine it for metal deposits, do you think the car's life will be impacted by this setup?

If a stage 2 tune will probably impact the car's life, what about staying with a Stage 1 tune?

Naturally, there is variance with this. Some engines will get damaged from a light tune and others will be fine despite a heavy Stage 2+ tune. But I guess I'm asking in general. I understand tuning stresses the car. But I'm asking if this plan is, as a generalization, a responsible plan for keeping the car running and healthy long-term. I love my 340i and want to drive it to 200,000 miles.

Best,
Cytoplasm

If you're tuning, you may want to get oil that has a higher hths rating. BMW oil I s designed for efficiency and meeting achieving mpg advertised, not performance or protection with higher power. My car has 0w30 recommended but I run 5w40 motul.

[Skyhigh]

Originally Posted by Dasky_spas

If you're tuning, you may want to get oil that has a higher hths rating. BMW oil I s designed for efficiency and meeting achieving mpg advertised, not performance or protection with higher power. My car has 0w30 recommended but I run 5w40 motul.

That logic is simply flawed. Running thicker oil in a machine which is designed for thinner oil is not justified just because you allow more boost into it. Besides that - thicker oil = decreased engine efficiency and performance.

There is absolutely no reason to go W40 on a B58, unless you have increased tolerances (i.e. oil consumption) or have physically modified your engine internals.

The topic has been discussed many times:

I personally stick to 0W30 for the time being. If it wasn't for the occasional cold start at down to -15 deg C which I have 2-3 times a year, I'd go to 5W30, but that's about it.

[Dasky_spas]

Originally Posted by Skyhigh

That logic is simply flawed. Running thicker oil in a machine which is designed for thinner oil is not justified just because you allow more boost into it. Besides that - thicker oil = decreased engine efficiency and performance.

There is absolutely no reason to go W40 on a B58, unless you have increased tolerances (i.e. oil consumption) or have physically modified your engine internals.

The topic has been discussed many times:

I personally stick to 0W30 for the time being. If it wasn't for the occasional cold start at down to -15 deg C which I have 2-3 times a year, I'd go to 5W30, but that's about it.

Shearing effect of oil is real but sure. For commuting, 0w30 is perfect but if the car is a weekend car for spirited driving and outside of freezing climates you may want to look into oil options. An oil analysis can tell you a lot about your oil needs.

[AspektUSA]

Originally Posted by Dasky_spas

Shearing effect of oil is real but sure. For commuting, 0w30 is perfect but if the car is a weekend car for spirited driving and outside of freezing climates you may want to look into oil options. An oil analysis can tell you a lot about your oil needs.

Per Bimmerworld, the official BMW MSport recommendation for the M4 GT4 race car is 5w-30 LL-04

[Dasky_spas]

Originally Posted by AspektUSA

Per Bimmerworld, the official BMW MSport recommendation for the M4 GT4 race car is 5w-30 LL-04

I'm sure. BMW oil recs are to satisfy government regulations, mpg figures, not longevity. You do as you think is best though. 5w30 will likely have better hths values than a 0w30.

[Skyhigh]

Originally Posted by Dasky_spas

Shearing effect of oil is real but sure. For commuting, 0w30 is perfect but if the car is a weekend car for spirited driving and outside of freezing climates you may want to look into oil options. An oil analysis can tell you a lot about your oil needs.

And your oil analysis showed specifically that you need thicker oil? Elaborate please.

Plenty of analysis posted here, for both 0W20 and 0W30. Might want to check them out!
We should all stop living in the past - just because your old car took advantage of thick oil (I use 0W40 in my Audi), doesn’t mean your new/current one should too. Modern engines are engineered and manufactured for even lower viscosity than W20 (even if the motivation is primarily fuel
economy and emissions). And you are not doing them any favour by putting an old-school butter-like lubrication. What you do though is decrease their efficiency due to the increased internal resistance.

[AspektUSA]

Originally Posted by Dasky_spas

I'm sure. BMW oil recs are to satisfy government regulations, mpg figures, not longevity. You do as you think is best though. 5w30 will likely have better hths values than a 0w30.

I think you need to re-read what I wrote.

The M4 GT4S race car, which isn't CAFE conforming in the slightest.
https://www.bmw-m.com/en/fastlane/mo...mw-m4-gt4.html

LL-04/01 are both in the 3.6 HTHS area, just that LL04 has lower SAPS.

[BMWILUVU]

BMW MANUAL
Viscosity grades
When selecting an engine oil, make sure that the engine oil has the viscosity grade SAE 0W-30 or SAE 0W-20. Alternatively, also engine oils with viscosity grades SAE 5W-20, SAE 5W-30, SAE 0W-40 or SAE 5W-40 can be used.

My engine is older now and I'm using 5w-40.