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      06-12-2018, 02:01 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
...those answers should be in the PDFs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IllLojik View Post
Thanks guys. I have read through those documents, but I'm not super knowledgeable about what is what when parts are called out by name. I will have to do some homework to make it easier on my self when it comes time to actually do the install.

The Miata DIY guide I had was very simple with detailed pictures and arrows with torque numbers overlayed. I was just making sure I wasn't missing a fancier "easy" to read document to follow. The Kies video is perfect for my minimal level of expertise, but had he mentioned torque values on each bolt as he removed it, I would have felt a lot more comfortable tackling the job.

I understand I am basically asking for an easy button and should just pay someone to do it, but I enjoy working on my car when I'm confident I can complete the task and not get stuck in the middle.
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      07-31-2018, 09:53 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zcspec View Post
The tools you've listed above are great choice. You can though, skip the spring compressor. Go to your local auto parts store and see if they will rent you:


That spring compressor won't work on the M perf suspension. I just tried I can't find a way to get it to clear the massive top hat and compress the spring enough

Last edited by zinner; 07-31-2018 at 10:12 PM..
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      08-01-2018, 11:40 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zinner View Post
That spring compressor won't work on the M perf suspension. I just tried I can't find a way to get it to clear the massive top hat and compress the spring enough
I bought a set and cut off about 1/4 of the bolt so it would work.
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      08-01-2018, 02:05 PM   #92
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Well I just was reading that Polo compressed with the top hat on. It worked like a charm. I spent about an hour and a half trying different methods, then I took it to a Firestone and they couldn't get it on either. There machine didn't have enough range of motion.


Here is how you do it folks. There are bosses (I think that is the correct word) that you place the upper jaws on. It felt solid and didn't move as I compressed it about 5 turns alternating per side.
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Last edited by zinner; 08-01-2018 at 02:13 PM..
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      08-27-2018, 08:22 AM   #93
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I need to replace my passenger side trailing arm/thrust arm/ tension arm or whatever its called. Does anyone think its possible to do this in my garage or would a lift be required?

How hard it it to reach the bolt on the subframe without a lift?
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      02-09-2019, 09:00 PM   #94
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Im doing my research on upgrading the springs on my 18 f30 320i. I notice in some of the manuals it says to replace hardware. Where can I find a list of all the hardware this job requires? Maybe a exploded view or something?
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      02-11-2019, 02:35 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ezcustoms View Post
Im doing my research on upgrading the springs on my 18 f30 320i. I notice in some of the manuals it says to replace hardware. Where can I find a list of all the hardware this job requires? Maybe a exploded view or something?
realoem.com

Enter VIN and get every bolt on your car.
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      03-18-2019, 01:10 PM   #96
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Is this the correct part# for the shorter rear bump stops similar to Dinan?

Bmw F30 2018 320i

Bmw #33536762722
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      09-28-2020, 03:12 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
ECS sells the 'strut nut' sockets, so you can use a torque wrench. Don't use an impact to tighten .. [coming from someone who uses an impact on everything and hates doing any job that involves any tool outside of an impact ] ... Do not use one on a shock nut, unless you want noises and to send it out for repair. The strut nut socket is worth it, or you can gradually work up with a pass through wrench, and keep checking with your torque wrench until you got it to click.

For the front .. mask the fenders with a towel and mask them some more. Tape a rag around the tie rod end boot as it will contact the dust shield and can rip.

If you have xdrive it's kind of a pain getting them back in, the axle pops out so you have to slowly turn the brake rotor, push in on the hub with your knee and push down on the strut with both hands. Eventually the splines will line up and it will all pop in and back up with a very satisfying feeling.

For the rears the only tricky part is getting the outer camber arm and the hub to line up well. You have to turn the inner eccentric bolt and it will line up. Careful not to force the arm up with a jack, if it doesn't line up you'll damage the ball joint on the hub.
Just installed one side of the rear. Getting that last bolt to line up was tricky, to say the least!! tried everything short of removing the camber arm bolt, thumbs down

Heres what worked for me. Once I got the bolt to pass through one side and through the rubber bushing, I used the socket and extension to manipulate the bolt to line up and then had a second person tap the end of the socket extension to get it to pass through. Wasn't easy.
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      09-29-2020, 05:50 PM   #98
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i noticed on the bilstein website in the FAQ, where it says this



and this



question:....do i reaaaaallY have to do this? i mean...........i assume i do. But do i really?
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      03-11-2021, 03:50 PM   #99
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question:....do i reaaaaallY have to do this? i mean...........i assume i do. But do i really?


Yes, you should do that. Think about the control arm or the thrust arm , one end is rubber bushing and the other end is ball joint, for the ball joint side, it move freely, however for the rubber bushing side, the center of the bushing is fixed by bolt and nut, the outer of the bushing is the arm body which turn with car moveing up and down creating twisting action in the rubber bushing, to eliminate the twist and prolong the life of the rubber bushing, it should be tighten with car at ridge height position .


I have a question, when the strut put back into the knuckle / bearing housing, how to know the correct position height ? There is no marking on the strut showing how far to “slide” into the knuckle ?
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      03-11-2021, 04:56 PM   #100
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It is vital to re-torque the suspension components after changing the suspension height. Bilstein instructions are literally to the point. Just do it and avoid future problems.
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      04-12-2021, 04:16 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gippy View Post
i noticed on the bilstein website in the FAQ, where it says this



and this



question:....do i reaaaaallY have to do this? i mean...........i assume i do. But do i really?
Quote:
Originally Posted by car328 View Post
question:....do i reaaaaallY have to do this? i mean...........i assume i do. But do i really?


Yes, you should do that. Think about the control arm or the thrust arm , one end is rubber bushing and the other end is ball joint, for the ball joint side, it move freely, however for the rubber bushing side, the center of the bushing is fixed by bolt and nut, the outer of the bushing is the arm body which turn with car moveing up and down creating twisting action in the rubber bushing, to eliminate the twist and prolong the life of the rubber bushing, it should be tighten with car at ridge height position .


I have a question, when the strut put back into the knuckle / bearing housing, how to know the correct position height ? There is no marking on the strut showing how far to “slide” into the knuckle ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cfm56d7b View Post
It is vital to re-torque the suspension components after changing the suspension height. Bilstein instructions are literally to the point. Just do it and avoid future problems.
So looking at the the picture on Bilstein site, some of the these rubber-metal component are parts of controlling/affecting alignment of the car. If changing coils/springs which affect vehicle height, and requires an alignment, would the alignment itself resolve this 'tension issue'?
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      04-29-2021, 05:33 AM   #102
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Definitely doing a lowering very soon. Just deciding on what springs to use and whether I'll like it in the end. If anyone has any used h&r, eibach lowered springs they're willing to sell hit me up
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      04-30-2021, 01:23 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gippy View Post
i noticed on the bilstein website in the FAQ, where it says this



and this



question:....do i reaaaaallY have to do this? i mean...........i assume i do. But do i really?
Searching for a bit of clarity on this statement. My understanding of this advisory is when Bilstein says "suspension components" they mean control and thrust arms, in the context of an F30-type suspension. But these suspension components, especially control arms, are clearly designed to move up and down to some degree. When cars are lifted off the ground for maintenance, control arms droop to the extent of the strut. How do the bushing not get 'pinched'? Maybe they do but to an acceptable degree and Bilstein is talking about keeping the pinch to a minimum?

The only thing I can think of why Bilstein recommends stress relief when changing ride height is that, assuming a car is on level surface, the control arm is parallel with the ground and hence no constant application of twist to the chassis-side bushing. When the chassis is lowered, again assuming a level surface, the control arm is no longer parallel with the ground. On the wheel side of the control arm, the control arm is higher than on the chassis side of the control arm. This would put a constant stress on the bushing as opposed to a temporary stress. That seems to be what Bilstein is getting at but maybe it's something else.
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      09-09-2021, 11:41 AM   #104
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Finally found this thread!

It's been hard to find/confirm the torque specs for the front subframe bolts and didn't want to go with "tight enough". The PDF details are like gold. Thank you!

Great info and conversations, too.
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      11-07-2021, 07:40 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by car328 View Post
I have a question, when the strut put back into the knuckle / bearing housing, how to know the correct position height ? There is no marking on the strut showing how far to “slide” into the knuckle ?
car328 Did you find a solution to this? I'm running into the same issue
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      12-29-2021, 12:27 PM   #106
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How do I configure my suspension for 220 grand tourer?
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