[Unspec]

Originally Posted by muniz_ri

I agree that a wired connection is likely best for the smoothest performance. But I have been able to get consistently great performance with wireless AA using my Samsung S10e.

I read early on in this thread to keep the wifi antenna away from metal so I mounted it on the plastic underneath the HU. I also use wifi channel 149. I haven't compared it to a wired connection in a long time but there is no lag and all works very smoothly.

The wireless is likely very dependent on phone processing power. Pixel 3 is comparatively weak compared to S10e and is quite ram constrained. That said, I like the benefit of wired not constantly hijacking my bluetooth connection. The box doesn't turn off with the car, so a lot of times if I'm working in the garage and listening to music over bluetooth speakers, even unlocking the car will make the MMI box steal the bluetooth. I wish it worked like the OEM radio, where bluetooth is only turned off when ignition is on, rather than any time the car is awake.

[ibi100]

Originally Posted by muniz_ri

I would start by making sure that the dip switches are set correctly. The first three should be set downwards for an 8.8" screen. Also, double check your quadlock connection and make sure that it is fully seated.

I checked everything, it's already correct, but I still have this "NO SIGNAL" problem, what else are you thinking about? month I lost hope I think only the update can save me ??

[RAAF12]

Originally Posted by muniz_ri

It looks like yet another hardware version. All of the sellers seem to be selling new hardware versions all the time. But as long as it works well...

It's clearer when you make a picture of the LCD screen of the car and upload here using the red + button above ^^^^ in the edit screen.
Then we can seen all the four lines of your new 2021 unit!

edit: wrong member quote

no brand no model.

from @ibi100

[RAAF12]

Originally Posted by Pauloxxi

Sure I did. I have sound, I can hear music and another person speaking on the phone in the other side. But I speak and the other person doesn't hear. Also Siri is not listening me. Microphone is not working with this MMI.
What bothers me is the logic... Why some cases don't have to pull mic cable and other do?
I'm concerned about passing the cable between MMI unit through the front console... Kies make look so easy and I don't have the same feeling.

My car is from 2016 and the OEM mic works well, it has the NBT unit. Maybe you have an older one? But the mic cable is optional stated the manufacturer in the leaflet. What version of original BMW Navigation you have? Maybe we can found out differences between cars.

[RAAF12]

Originally Posted by josephvelev

Greetings.
I got Andream MMI Box as well. The installation was perfect.
However I am seeing some GPS issues. For some reason the box is using my phone GPS and when the phone gets locked. Waze or Maps no longer shows my current position. They stop at my last known location. Does anyone had similar issue?
Waze is set to no battery restrictions.
I am wondering how I can set it so that it prefers the build in GPS rather then the one from the phone?
I will be happy to solve this.
Forget to mention that the box is NBT04x with firmware CUST Version B2_V1.2.5, MCU Version 20.10.22.16 and HW Version: BMW_NBT2
Thanks!

You forgot the SDK version (Software Development Kit) on the 1st line

I think it's 25.0.0.7.0.0.2.0

[muniz_ri]

Originally Posted by ibi100

I checked everything, it's already correct, but I still have this "NO SIGNAL" problem, what else are you thinking about? month I lost hope I think only the update can save me ??

I doesn't sound like an issue that would be resolved by updating the software. The last thing that I would do before contacting the seller for a replacement is try switching the lvds cables.

[RAAF12]

Originally Posted by Unspec

The wireless is likely very dependent on phone processing power. Pixel 3 is comparatively weak compared to S10e and is quite ram constrained. That said, I like the benefit of wired not constantly hijacking my bluetooth connection. The box doesn't turn off with the car, so a lot of times if I'm working in the garage and listening to music over bluetooth speakers, even unlocking the car will make the MMI box steal the bluetooth. I wish it worked like the OEM radio, where bluetooth is only turned off when ignition is on, rather than any time the car is awake.

The big advantage of wireless Android Auto for me is that the phone in my pocket is connected to Bluetooth when I enter the car and the music streams automatic. That's fun!

[muniz_ri]

Originally Posted by Bimmer-Dre34

So i recently installed the Carlinkit MMI and through the vast info on this forum have been able to troubleshoot most issues and things seem to be working ok. I currently am running the latest firmware from Carlinkit (from page 1 on this thread). The one I cannot quite solve is how to get Airplay to work for streaming. It says to disconnect CarPlay first, which I do, but then CarPlay keeps reconnecting. I tried turning off Bluetooth and that does not help. Has anyone had a similar issue and been able to conquer this one. Appreciate any help and thanks in advance.

UPDATE: ok so shortly after writing this I kept tinkering and figured it out. Here were my steps:
1. Make sure you are connected to WiFi of MMI
2. Go into CarPlay Menu and click on device under "CarPlay Devices" - this will disconnect the currently connected from CarPlay
3. Quickly go into the AirPlay menu and while in that menu, go pull down the control dock on your iPhone and click on screen mirroring. You should see the Apple AirPlay logo pop up.
4. Click on the logo and wait! (This was my initial mistake - I would click out of the AirPlay menu on MMI before the connection was fully established.

This worked for me and was streaming YouTube videos with great clarity and sound.

Note: I also disconnected my Bluetooth before this, but not sure if that was a necessary step.
Anyway - hope this helps someone else.
Thx

Thanks for the update. Glad that you figured it out.

I installed the latest Carlinkit update, v9.2.20.yl.b, today. They seem to have done a really good job with this update and it appears to now be on par with Bimmertech's software.

I use Android Auto and all of the following key features are included:

- Auto-launch
- Automatic night switching
- OEM bluetooth connection for calls
- Improved screen resolution

I also increased the size of the screen elements in the app drawer, added the BMW Exit Icon, and increased the size of the album cover art. The main UI isn't as polished as Bimmertech's, imo, but that is subjective plus I rarely see the main ui due to AA Auto-launch.

[XxThe_RemedyXx]

Originally Posted by muniz_ri

Thanks for the update. Glad that you figured it out.

I installed the latest Carlinkit update, v9.2.20.yl.b, today. They seem to have done a really good job with this update and it appears to now be on par with Bimmertech's software.

I use Android Auto and all of the following key features are included:

- Auto-launch
- Automatic night switching
- OEM bluetooth connection for calls
- Improved screen resolution

I also increased the size of the screen elements in the app drawer, added the BMW Exit Icon, and increased the size of the album cover art. The main UI isn't as polished as Bimmertech's, imo, but that is subjective.

I have the Carlinkit unit as well but running the custom firmware from the first page. Any benefits running the official firmware from them as opposed to custom?

[muniz_ri]

Originally Posted by XxThe_RemedyXx

I have the Carlinkit unit as well but running the custom firmware from the first page. Any benefits running the official firmware from them as opposed to custom?

I think that it's a wash at the present time imo...

The latest Carlinkit does have a few additional settings like enabling and disabling night mode switching if you prefer to use the time of day instead of headlights to control night mode, the ability to use the oem or mmi bluetooth connection for phone calls, and a couple of other settings that the custom sw doesn't have. Plus improved screen resolution. But the custom sw does allow you to skip tracks by double toggling the idrive controller and a cleaner ui.

For over a year Bimmertech's software, which is what the custom sw is built upon, was much better than what came with the other mmi boxes. But that isn't the case anymore, fortunately.

[RAAF12]

Originally Posted by Molinetti

Panic mode, try to update to this version and now have a black screen and trying to reboot without success, help please!

Leave the car locked for about 30 minutes and then try again. This sleepmode will remove the voltage completely from the MMI box.
Btw. The BMW GPS receiver, 2 or3G simmodule, remote doorlock receiver and alarm always needs a little bit of power in deep sleep mode.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by RAAF12

The big advantage of wireless Android Auto for me is that the phone in my pocket is connected to Bluetooth when I enter the car and the music streams automatic. That's fun!

And faster charging for wireless.

For me, the phone-in-pocket thing isn't really useful for me since I always take my phone out of my pocket anyhow (uncomfortable). Avoiding the "god dammit i need to go reset my music" thing is worth its weight in gold for me lol

[XxThe_RemedyXx]

Originally Posted by muniz_ri

I think that it's a wash at the present time imo...

The latest Carlinkit does have a few additional settings like enabling and disabling night mode switching if you prefer to use the time of day instead of headlights to control night mode, the ability to use the oem or mmi bluetooth connection for phone calls, and a couple of other settings that the custom sw doesn't have. Plus improved screen resolution. But the custom sw does allow you to skip tracks by double toggling the idrive controller and a cleaner ui.

For over a year Bimmertech's software, which is what the custom sw is built upon, was much better than what came with the other mmi boxes. But that isn't the case anymore, fortunately.

Thanks for the explanation! If I wanted to revert back to the original MCU and firmware to try the official firmware, is there any particular method that I need to follow? I'm mostly interested in the higher resolution.

[muniz_ri]

Originally Posted by XxThe_RemedyXx

Thanks for the explanation! If I wanted to revert back to the original MCU and firmware to try the official firmware, is there any particular method that I need to follow? I'm mostly interested in the higher resolution.

You can just flash the Carlinkit sw over the current sw. There shouldn't be any need to flash the mcu.

[GrabacrOne]

Originally Posted by mrx3n0n10

Hi all,

For those of you with Andream B-units who are stuck on firmware version v1.0.4-2 like me before, and I know there are quite a lot of you, I might have a way for you to update to the latest v1.1.2 and from there on, hopefully we're able to update normally in the future. I've done these steps and they worked for me. I can now benefit from auto-connect AA

Beware, know what you're doing because when you do it wrong it might brick your device!

1. Prepare two USB sticks: one with version 1.0.2 (yes I know it's older, bear with me), and one with the latest 1.1.2 version
2. Plug in the stick with the new firmware and go to the update screen (rotate controller to put the cursor on the update button, but do not push down to start the update yet!)
3. Be sure you can reach the USB port easily and get ready to switch USB sticks rapidly (so get it the right way up), as you will have to switch USB sticks very very quickly (basically within a second)
4. Start the update by pressing down the controller. You will hear the relay click and the screen turns black or switches back to original UI. Switch sticks now!!
5. The old firmware will now be installed if you were on time. After several reboots the version of the device will be 1.0.2.
6. After your heartbeat has lowered, insert the stick again with the new firmware. You can now install this version normally.
7. Pop open a bottle of champagne, drink it and don't drive afterwards.

Originally Posted by shoevan

Hi All,

For what its worth, I initially got my Andream NBT B with 1.0.3, happily upgraded to 1.0.4 but I've been stuck ever since with the infamous 'burn error' and have been constantly checking this thread for details as to why.

Gave up waiting as I really wanted automatic android auto connection, so gathered up the months of info and went along.

Tried 4 separate USB sticks, all freshly (quick) formatted fat32 on windows (no other settings changed), all different sizes, mostly USB2 but varying in age, whatever I could find in the house got a try.

None worked trying to upgrade from 1.0.4 to 1.1.2. Then tried the reported empty 'recovery111#' file with all of them, did this on windows by right clicking on the USB stick root > create a new text document > rename file and remove file extension (.txt) > accept Windows warning about possibly being unable to read. Again all 4 sticks did not work with upgrading.

Then I decided to give the sleight of hand hack a try (cheers to mrx3n0n10, noted on post #6070 of this thread). The setup was: 8GB USB 2 Imation with v1.1.2, 16GB USB2 Lexar with v1.0.2. This worked successfully without a hitch, was finally on v.1.1.2! Decided I'll try to upgrade to v1.2.1 (put 1.2.1 on the Imation stick) from here hoping I'll have some more success with the new version, again no luck with the 'burn error'. Tried the recovery file again and still no success.

Decided I'll try the sleight of hand hack again but this time will upgrade from 1.0.2 to 1.2.1 (again noting Imation = 1.2.1, Lexar = 1.0.2). Again this worked great and am now on 1.2.1.

With all this said I'm getting the feeling it definitely isn't hardware related as I've used the same stick (Imation) to upgrade from 1.0.3 - 1.0.4 - 1.1.2 - 1.2.1.

I'm not entirely sure I did the recovery111# file creation correctly, although upon plugging in the USB the Andream would promptly restart, open to any other critiques of my testing.

Thanks mrx3n0n10 and shoevan! I was on B_V1.1.2 on the NBT Andream box and could not update to 1.1.5, 1.2.1, or 1.2.5 using the regular update or 'recovery111#' file procedures. I was able to update MCU from 20.06.02 to 20.10.22.16 without any issues but kept getting the dreaded burn failure error no matter what USB stick I tried, formatted on either Windows 10 or OSX. Gave the sleight-of-hand trick a try and successfully downgraded to 1.0.2 and upgraded directly to 1.2.5 on the first try.

Not sure why downgrading to the earliest software version available for the B units - 1.0.2 - seems to allow for future updates but this is clearly a software issue. Also, there's a warning in the main post to only update the GEMINI_PACK.BIN boxes sequentially but with this method, the only option is to jump directly from 1.0.2 to the latest version.

I mainly wanted to update because I was having an issue with wireless Apple Carplay where after sometime of using Carplay, it would show a black screen and return to the main menu of the MMI unit. I could click Carplay and it would return to that function, but would force back the main menu a few times before I could stay on Carplay. This usually only happened when Carplay is used for some time. It would seem like an overheating/hardware issue but Carplay still is active, my phone stays connected, and the MMI unit doesn't reboot or reset when this happens - it just returns back to its home screen. Hopefully the newer MCU and software fixes this - will update after using for some time.

[Frrr]

Originally Posted by muniz_ri

I also increased the size of the screen elements in the app drawer, added the BMW Exit Icon, and increased the size of the album cover art. The main UI isn't as polished as Bimmertech's, imo, but that is subjective plus I rarely see the main ui due to AA Auto-launch.

As always thanks a lot for the information.

These chages can be done through menu options or by modifying lines of code?

My Carlinlkit is running Custom Firmware, if I'm not wrong, I can update the current firnware without flashing the MCU?.

I'm really interested in the changes you have done, and I would give the new Firmware a try if they are easy to include.

Regards

[Mo_far]

Hi all

Been away from the thread for a while and there are tons of new posts to go through so the lazy guy I am I thought I'd just ask.

Is there support from Andream in the new software for B2 units to skip track using double right or left on iDrive controller? If so which version?

(Edit) I only use CarPlay and by updates I mean benefits of the latest version for CarPlay like the skip track which is available in custom SW for A units
Cheers

[muniz_ri]

Originally Posted by Frrr

As always thanks a lot for the information.

These chages can be done through menu options or by modifying lines of code?

My Carlinlkit is running Custom Firmware, if I'm not wrong, I can update the current firnware without flashing the MCU?.

I'm really interested in the changes you have done, and I would give the new Firmware a try if they are easy to include.

Regards

Sent PM

[XxThe_RemedyXx]

Originally Posted by muniz_ri

Sent PM

Just updated to official FW and got this...

[Frrr]

Originally Posted by muniz_ri

Sent PM

Thank you very much!!!.

[muniz_ri]

Originally Posted by XxThe_RemedyXx

Just updated to official FW and got this...

Did you flash the ending in b or b2?

[XxThe_RemedyXx]

Originally Posted by muniz_ri

Did you flash the ending in b or b2?

Version b2