[leadfoot12]

Originally Posted by Freakystein

Hi guys, prior to the installation of my Ohlins on the F30, is there any hardware i need that i need to change since i'll be change from the EDC to coilovers?

Best to change out strut mounts while you are in there. Can get these from Corteco (OE) for $50/ea

[itsrichierich]

Man, there's a set of Ohlins for sale right now on the forums too... So tempting...

[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by leadfoot12

Best to change out strut mounts while you are in there. Can get these from Corteco (OE) for $50/ea

There is also the added benefit of not having to dismantle the stock dampers using sketchy spring compressors. Once you have coilovers installed you won't ever have to deal with those since you can simply remove the pre-load by lowering the collar.

[5mall5nail5]

Stupid question but I am turned off by KW anymore... what is the height adjustment of the Ohlins coils?

[Freakystein]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

You'll need another left (US Driver's Side) end link. EDC RWD cars have different L/R end links, and passive setups use the same left end link on both sides.

Ok. got it. Thanks.

[nadefade]

Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5

Stupid question but I am turned off by KW anymore... what is the height adjustment of the Ohlins coils?

Confirmed with Ohlins the lowering range is 5-25mm front and the rear 0-30mm from base suspension.

[itsrichierich]

Reading through this thread made me question if I should leave the Ohlins I plan on getting alone or change out the springs.

'13 F30 335i that is a daily but will see 2-3 track days here in California. Would you guys say leave the Ohlins as is or change out spring rates?

[leadfoot12]

Originally Posted by itsrichierich

Reading through this thread made me question if I should leave the Ohlins I plan on getting alone or change out the springs.

'13 F30 335i that is a daily but will see 2-3 track days here in California. Would you guys say leave the Ohlins as is or change out spring rates?

So after all my research I ended up going with Bilstein B14s as I couldn't justify the cost of the Ohlins in my case for a daily driver.

For reference, the Bilstein B14 spring rates are 397.6lbs/in front and 565.6lbs/in rear.

The ~400lbs/in front springs on the B14s are plenty stiff. I now find myself bracing for impact whenever I come up on rough sections of road. Given this, I think the Ohlins front spring rate should be plenty firm. I would leave them as is. You can always change them down the line if you end up wanting to go firmer.

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by itsrichierich

Reading through this thread made me question if I should leave the Ohlins I plan on getting alone or change out the springs.

'13 F30 335i that is a daily but will see 2-3 track days here in California. Would you guys say leave the Ohlins as is or change out spring rates?

This is really a driver preference type of question...if you have never done a track day on the Ohlins, then it would be wise to give yourself a reason to swap the springs after you have a baseline, so I would leave them Once you have that experience you can reference how the car behaved point which in turn will give you direction. For example, you may need to soften the front or stiffen the rear or vice versa...

hope this helps.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5

Stupid question but I am turned off by KW anymore... what is the height adjustment of the Ohlins coils?

I've never been a fan of KW - Overpriced, and literally dubious objective proof they are better than the others.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by leadfoot12

So after all my research I ended up going with Bilstein B14s as I couldn't justify the cost of the Ohlins in my case for a daily driver.

For reference, the Bilstein B14 spring rates are 397.6lbs/in front and 565.6lbs/in rear.

The ~400lbs/in front springs on the B14s are plenty stiff. I now find myself bracing for impact whenever I come up on rough sections of road. Given this, I think the Ohlins front spring rate should be plenty firm. I would leave them as is. You can always change them down the line if you end up wanting to go firmer.

I've emailed Harold at HP Autosport Inc. and he was in the process of verifying that Ohlins will replace/include the 80N/mm front spring instead.

Per Ohlin's installation instructions, they recommend an 80N/mm front spring.

https://world.ohlins.com/app/uploads...MI_BMSMU00.pdf

Looks like DVC was right.

[Freakystein]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

I've emailed Harold at HP Autosport Inc. and he was in the process of verifying that Ohlins will replace/include the 80N/mm front spring instead.

Per Ohlin's installation instructions, they recommend an 80N/mm front spring.

https://world.ohlins.com/app/uploads...MI_BMSMU00.pdf

Looks like DVC was right.

I notice the change in Ohlins website as well and i've check with my local distributor for ohlins, they mention now customer can choose their own spring rates, but the recommended is no 80n/mm Front and 140n/mm rear. But springs are sold seperately now.

Any 1 tested on this new spring rate?

[Watsey]

Originally Posted by Freakystein

I notice the change in Ohlins website as well and i've check with my local distributor for ohlins, they mention now customer can choose their own spring rates, but the recommended is no 80n/mm Front and 140n/mm rear. But springs are sold seperately now.

Any 1 tested on this new spring rate?

See my earlier post (8).

The 6-cyl engines really do need a higher front spring rate than the 60N/mm spring which was in the original kits.

Interesting to see that Ohlins has now accepted this and will supply higher spring rates as standard.

[Freakystein]

Originally Posted by Watsey

See my earlier post (8).

The 6-cyl engines really do need a higher front spring rate than the 60N/mm spring which was in the original kits.

Interesting to see that Ohlins has now accepted this and will supply higher spring rates as standard.

Ya, saw ur earlier post and DVC, both of you uprated the front. They also drop the rear, i've tried 120N/mm rear spring swap and didnt like it. Swap back to 160N/mm. Thinking would 140n/mm made a difference or not.

[Polo08816]

Has anyone been able to get their hands on the new updated coilovers? They were supposed to come out late August.

[Watsey]

Originally Posted by Freakystein

Ya, saw ur earlier post and DVC, both of you uprated the front. They also drop the rear, i've tried 120N/mm rear spring swap and didnt like it. Swap back to 160N/mm. Thinking would 140n/mm made a difference or not.

Are you running a saloon/sedan or a Touring ?

I find the Ohlins standard 160N springs work well on the rear of my Touring. Personally I wouldn't want to reduce the spring rate. 160N might feel slightly over-sprung on a Saloon/Sedan - there's approximately 70-80Kg difference in weight compared to the Touring, and almost all of this will be over the rear wheels.

IMO 140N would feel a little under-sprung on the Touring, but of course it does depend on how you want your car to feel underneath you and the condition of the roads.

[Freakystein]

Originally Posted by Watsey

Are you running a saloon/sedan or a Touring ?

I find the Ohlins standard 160N springs work well on the rear of my Touring. Personally I wouldn't want to reduce the spring rate. 160N might feel slightly over-sprung on a Saloon/Sedan - there's approximately 70-80Kg difference in weight compared to the Touring, and almost all of this will be over the rear wheels.

IMO 140N would feel a little under-sprung on the Touring, but of course it does depend on how you want your car to feel underneath you and the condition of the roads.

Recently did a spring rate swap to 90N swift spring up front, the cars feels much better upfront, more direct and I feel it takes the stiffer damper setting much much better. Interesting to see how this setup performs on the track.

[Watsey]

Originally Posted by Freakystein

Recently did a spring rate swap to 90N swift spring up front, the cars feels much better upfront, more direct and I feel it takes the stiffer damper setting much much better. Interesting to see how this setup performs on the track.

Good to hear that you're enjoying the stiffer front springs.

Obviously suspension and handling are affected by a combination of several factors. Dampers, anti-roll bars, camber and tyre pressures to name a few.

Not wanting to preach to the choir, if you have time during your track session, always try to change only one factor at a time.

[Freakystein]

Originally Posted by Watsey

Good to hear that you're enjoying the stiffer front springs.

Obviously suspension and handling are affected by a combination of several factors. Dampers, anti-roll bars, camber and tyre pressures to name a few.

Not wanting to preach to the choir, if you have time during your track session, always try to change only one factor at a time.

Surprisingly, when it set the dampers so soft, it's feels even more comfortable than the 60N spring rate. Ohlins screw up on the initial 60N springs I guess, Which made them change it now to 80N.

But there is something I'm noticing more now, not sure is it because of new tyres or the new spring rate, did a canyon run recently and notice the traction control light lid on quite a bit, but the tyres are even close to their limit. Really weird as the TC doesn't really intervene much, but blinks quite a bit when I take a turn slightly more aggressive.

I'm running 18x9 Square tyres setup with quite a bit of camber upfront n rear.

Face such issue before?

[Watsey]

Originally Posted by Freakystein

Surprisingly, when it set the dampers so soft, it's feels even more comfortable than the 60N spring rate. Ohlins screw up on the initial 60N springs I guess, Which made them change it now to 80N.

But there is something I'm noticing more now, not sure is it because of new tyres or the new spring rate, did a canyon run recently and notice the traction control light lid on quite a bit, but the tyres are even close to their limit. Really weird as the TC doesn't really intervene much, but blinks quite a bit when I take a turn slightly more aggressive.

I'm running 18x9 Square tyres setup with quite a bit of camber upfront n rear.

Face such issue before?

I did have traction issues when running H&R ARBs and Ohlins R&T - the bars were so stiff that they would lift the inside rear wheel under 'assertive' cornering, especially if the road surface was bumpy, causing a loss of traction.

I had the bars changed to Eibach units and have found them to be a far better match with the Ohlins spring rates.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by Freakystein

Surprisingly, when it set the dampers so soft, it's feels even more comfortable than the 60N spring rate. Ohlins screw up on the initial 60N springs I guess, Which made them change it now to 80N.

Higher spring rate for the same damping force = less damped, and therefore more comfortable.

[CABEZAGRANDE]

Have they ever confirmed 100% that the R&Ts do not work with xDrive?