[livache]

Originally Posted by sean2648

It is not just an "option" you switch or change. You have to take off the entire instrument cluster and remove the orange LEDs from the circuit board and then resolder on new white LEDs, or whatever color you would like it to be. Not the hardest thing in the world, but not as simple as just changing an option in a menu, unfortunately.

Ok, thanks.

[davie99999]

Which wifi connector should I use and if I buy it will it work with Bimmer and Carly

Regards

[///M Houbi]

Carly needs its own, a dedicated one.

For Bimmercode and many other apps i can highly recommend the Veepeak BLE

[Astone22]

Thinking about purchasing bimmer code. Will this affect my factory warranty ? Also does coding your have the potential to mess something up. I wouldn't do coding in expert mode just in normal mode.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by Astone22

Thinking about purchasing bimmer code. Will this affect my factory warranty ? Also does coding your have the potential to mess something up. I wouldn't do coding in expert mode just in normal mode.

The risk is low but there is a risk especially if you use a WiFi adapter. Get a Bluetooth adapter and don't skip any of the steps. I've coded 3 of my own bimmers and haven't had any issues with warranty. If you brick the car, you can supposedly restore from a backup on the app. I'm guessing worst comes to worst you just have the car towed to the dealer and they will reflash it. It's software so there shouldnt be permanent damage even if you mess it up.

[///M Houbi]

You can't programm ECU's with BimmerCode. You can only code „options", nothing more.

Sure if you go completely mad you could code things that certain parts of the car migjt no longer work as expected, but its highly unlikely to destroy anything and have to be towed..

Just do one thing at the time, enter flight mode while coding and make sure both car and phone have enough power left in the batteries. Then it's 99'9% safe.

[livache]

Originally Posted by sean2648

It is not just an "option" you switch or change. You have to take off the entire instrument cluster and remove the orange LEDs from the circuit board and then resolder on new white LEDs, or whatever color you would like it to be. Not the hardest thing in the world, but not as simple as just changing an option in a menu, unfortunately.

Okay, I understand the clocks do not go white... but these two parts from the red circle can stay white on the night ? Not to change in orange ? Stay like the pictures on the left...

[Astone22]

Originally Posted by jmg

The risk is low but there is a risk especially if you use a WiFi adapter. Get a Bluetooth adapter and don't skip any of the steps. I've coded 3 of my own bimmers and haven't had any issues with warranty. If you brick the car, you can supposedly restore from a backup on the app. I'm guessing worst comes to worst you just have the car towed to the dealer and they will reflash it. It's software so there shouldnt be permanent damage even if you mess it up.

Thanks for the feedback! I will be coding next weekend. Has anyone had any major issues with bimmer code causing errors or issues. I plan on coding the rear fog some other little items. I just don't want to mess anything up on the car

[MJE60]

Originally Posted by Astone22

Thanks for the feedback! I will be coding next weekend. Has anyone had any major issues with bimmer code causing errors or issues. I plan on coding the rear fog some other little items. I just don't want to mess anything up on the car

If your using Bimmercode, I have copied my two top tips (from F48 forum). If you follow the tips you should avoid most of the serious F*88 up’s people have had.


TWO TOP TIPS

Looking at some of the problems people are getting with Bimmercode, that is the rare but serious "my car has been wrecked and the dealer had to reprogramme" problems, there is a consistent theme.
It has little to do with whether basic or expert mode has been used , although expert mode is best left for people who understand the concept behind fdl coding.

The reason things may go badly wrong with Bimmercode and why they cannot then be fixed is due to two underlying factors,

firstly that Wi-fi or bluetooth is used rather than an Enet cable , this is a less stable communication route. Top Tip one is to make sure you use airplane mode (no calls, texts etc) and only enable the function (Bluetooth or wireless) your obd dongle uses. I prefer not to use bimmercode with a wieless dongle (it is too vunerable to interference, I use the Bluetooth version as it has limited range and less risk of external interference) similarily I would rather not use a mobile phone to code as there are background functions working even in flight mode, Any interruption in coding , whether due to incoming call, app software updates, text message etc can corrupt read or write data. I use an iPad without 3G/sim, I disable wireless and use Bluetooth., I close all other apps on the device before opening Bimmercode. Also during coding, with the iPad, I put my mobile phone in flight mode and leave away from the car. This is due to the risk of it accidentally connecting to the car during coding. Jmciver advises you clip in driver seat belt to stop auto “shutoff” of the ignition after approx 7 minutes. Ensuring read or write data is not corrupted is critical when you consider underlying factor two.

The second and probably main underlying problem with Bimmercode is failure by users to understand how the coding process works,. Bimmercode reads the ecu, it uses this "read" to create the back-up and after you make coding changes it uses the modified "read" data to write back to the ecu. If the read data is corrupted, Bimmercode may continue working but your back-up and write (coding) would both be corrupted. This may effectively "brick" the ecu requiring dealer rebuild. Top tip Two - I always read the ecu I want to code, find changes then I exit the ecu and disconnect Bimmercode. Only then will I connect back again and code. This "read ecu twice" process effectively doubles your chance of having a safe (non corrupted) back-up which can be used to restore if things go wrong. [Please note this only works for the iOS version of the app, at the time of writing the android app only stores one back-up. You can however manually rename the back-up and the app will then create another]. If you are very nervous there is nothing to stop you doing this even if you already have a back-up from previous successful coding. Each time the ecu is read it will create a back-up. I exit Bimmercode after the very first ecu read in case there is app instability, it removes the slight risk there is a wider app problem which could be carried into the second read. Never pick up Bimmercode for the first time, read an ecu and code. You will only have one "read/back-up" and if it is corrupted you could end up begging E-sys coders for help.

[sumsom3]

Hey guys, I got iCarpro and bought the full version of bimmercode and I tried coding a couple of things including light indicator when locking and it didn't seem to work. also tried getting the speed display but all it did was remove my gas range and now theres nothing there. I tried restoring the code with the backup feature but literally nothing happened.HELP PLEASE

[mbanks21]

I just used it today for the first time. Took about 30-40 minutes and coded everything I needed to (except 3 to 5 blinks for turn signal).

[jmciver]

Originally Posted by MJE60

If your using Bimmercode, I have copied my two top tips (from F48 forum). If you follow the tips you should avoid most of the serious F*88 up’s people have had.


TWO TOP TIPS

Looking at many of the problems people are getting with Bimmercode, that is the serious "my car has been wrecked and the dealer had to reprogramme" problems, there is a consistent theme.
It has little to do with whether basic or expert mode has been used , although expert mode is best left for people who understand the concept behind fdl coding.

The reason things can go badly wrong with Bimmercode and why they cannot then be fixed is due to two underlying factors,

firstly that Wi-fi or bluetooth is used rather than an Enet cable , this is a less stable communication route. Top Tip one is to make sure you use airplane mode (no calls, texts etc) and only enable the function (Bluetooth or wireless) your obd dongle uses. I prefer not to use bimmercode with a wieless dongle (it is too vunerable to interference, I use the Bluetooth version as it has limited range and less risk of external interference) similarily I would rather not use a mobile phone to code as there are background functions working even in flight mode, Any interruption in coding , whether due to incoming call, app software updates, text message etc can corrupt read or write data. I use an iPad without 3G/sim, I disable wireless and use Bluetooth., I close all other apps on the device before opening Bimmercode. Also during coding, with the iPad, I put my mobile phone in flight mode and leave away from the car. This is due to the risk of it accidentally connecting to the car during coding. Ensuring read or write data is not corrupted is critical when you consider underlying factor two.

The second and probably main underlying problem with Bimmercode is failure by users to understand how the coding process works,. Bimmercode reads the ecu, it uses this "read" to create the back-up and after you make coding changes it uses the modified "read" data to write back to the ecu. If the read data is corrupted, Bimmercode will often continue working but your back-up and write (coding) will both be corrupted. This may effectively "brick" the ecu requiring dealer rebuild. Top tip Two - I always read the ecu I want to code, find changes then I exit the ecu and disconnect Bimmercode. Only then will I connect back again and code. This "read ecu twice" process effectively doubles your chance of having a safe (non corrupted) back-up which can be used to restore if things go wrong. If you are very nervous there is nothing to stop you doing this even if you already have a back-up from previous successful coding. Each time the ecu is read it will create a back-up. I exit Bimmercode after the very first ecu read in case there is app instability, it removes the slight risk there is a wider app problem which could be carried into the second read. Never pick up Bimmercode for the first time, read an ecu and code. You will only have one "read/back-up" and if it is corrupted you could end up begging E-sys coders for help.

Some good nuggets of info here. One other thing I would add is that you should also remember to clip in the driver side seat belt when doing any coding. The ignition will turn off after ~5-7 min or so if the engine is not started (but the radio would still stay on). Having the ignition turn off in the middle of an ECU write would not be good. Keeping the driver seat belt clipped in will prevent the ignition from turning off during an extended coding session.

[evdok]

Didn't know that, I once was in the middle of coding when the message popped up "Idrive will shut down soon" I was absolutely helpless & bricked the car on a 10sec countdown, dash lit up like a xmas tree, lucky for me the backup file saved me & 5mins later all was well....underpants did need changing though

[ajrulez]

Is carly better than Bimmerpost. I have used carly. It has tons of options..

[evdok]

I have both & find bimmercode has huge more options in expert mode.

[MJE60]

Originally Posted by jmciver

Some good nuggets of info here. One other thing I would add is that you should also remember to clip in the driver side seat belt when doing any coding. The ignition will turn off after ~5-7 min or so if the engine is not started (but the radio would still stay on). Having the ignition turn off in the middle of an ECU write would not be good. Keeping the driver seat belt clipped in will prevent the ignition from turning off during an extended coding session.

Thank you for this, very useful, in fact a key point. We often learn to do things to prevent problems and forget they are not widely known. With your permission (and deference to Monty Python) this could become - Our three top tips ,or is that now four?

So, your view on a wider debate, better to code with engine running or not? *, For general advice to newbie’s using Bimmercode I would say to make sure your battery has a good charge and plan your coding session so it is slick/quick as possible and code with engine off. However, there is no doubt, a voltage drop, during a coding session can cause significant errors!

* - E-sys debate about not coding engine modules (FRM & CAS) with engine running , some are but some are not (F30 at least), nearly all either hook up power supply to battery or carry out general coding with engine running. BIMMERCODE official advice is code with engine off even though there is less access to critical areas (than E-sys) however you need a healthy battery for safe coding. If I am running behind (slow session, rare but happens), I will disconnect, start engine and then code ( Bimmercode) with engine running and have not had a problem. I have connected E-sys and am starting to explore it, due to VO coding, but get the sneaking impression it is more power hungry.

[jmciver]

Originally Posted by MJE60

Thank you for this, very useful, in fact a key point. We often learn to do things to prevent problems and forget they are not widely known. With your permission (and deference to Monty Python) this could become - Our three top tips ,or is that now four?

So, your view on a wider debate, better to code with engine running or not? *, For general advice to newbie’s using Bimmercode I would say to make sure your battery has a good charge and plan your coding session so it is slick/quick as possible and code with engine off. However, there is no doubt, a voltage drop, during a coding session can cause significant errors!

* - E-sys debate about not coding engine modules (FRM & CAS) with engine running , some are but some are not (F30 at least), nearly all either hook up power supply to battery or carry out general coding with engine running. BIMMERCODE official advice is code with engine off even though there is less access to critical areas (than E-sys) however you need a healthy battery for safe coding. If I am running behind (slow session, rare but happens), I will disconnect, start engine and then code ( Bimmercode) with engine running and have not had a problem. I have connected E-sys and am starting to explore it, due to VO coding, but get the sneaking impression it is more power hungry.

Haha, no permission needed. I am just passing along info that was provided to me via these forums . Regarding coding with engine on/off, my preference would be to do it with the engine off (and is what I do the most), but I have done it with the engine on a few times. My understanding is that the only real module that you can't code with the engine running is the engine ECU, which makes sense to me since you don't want the engine ECU to reset while it is actively controlling a running engine. Best case, the engine will just shut down, worst case...... The electrical environment in a car is pretty brutal, even for modern cars, as there are so many different variables when compared to the electrical environment in your house or a building. So even though the engine/alternator/electrical system can still provide very clean power that is good enough for coding, clean power without the engine running is still preferred in my opinion (but as I mentioned, I have done coding successfully with the engine running and I was not worried about hurting anything).

The absolute best power source for any type of coding (or even engine ECU flashing for tuners like BootMod3, etc) is an automotive power supply unit (PSU). They provide steady, regulated current (up to 13 amps IIRC) for power hungry, full car programming sessions that can take several hours. These PSUs are typically reserved for dealers/indy shops because they are expensive and not readily available at the local auto parts store (although there are some DIYs out there to make them). I have never used a PSU before for any coding or engine ECU flashing, nor do I think I will have the need to. There are some that have DIY'ed a full car ECU programming session, just like the dealers do, and will only do that using a PSU.

Next in line would be car battery chargers, which sometimes get confused as automotive PSUs. These can provide steady current up to ~5-6 amps or so. However, these are just designed to charge a battery, either not installed in a car or installed in a car with the car off. The current requirement of the car with the ignition on is greater than what a battery charger can provide. So the net effect will be that your battery will still drain if the ignition is on, it will just drain slower since the charger is providing some power. I have used these before as a precaution, but I don't always us them based on how long I will be coding.

Last would be using your car battery, which is what I use almost all of the time. Having a fully charged and healthy battery for any coding session, no matter how short, is a definite must. My F80 M3 has one of those gold plated (i.e. very $$) Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo) batteries which is by far the most "stout" car battery I have ever used. I recently did a 50 min coding session (re-coding my car after a dealer visit that updated the software in my car and wiped out my coding) and the battery didn't flinch when I started the engine afterwards. Of course, it took me a while, with shorter coding sessions and other electrical work on my car, before I built up the confidence to do that. I would not attempt that long of a coding session with a regular AGM battery though, at least not without a battery charger connected.

FDL coding using E-Sys is not more power hungry than Bimmercode/iCarly. Both require the ignition to be on when reading/writing to a module so the power drain is the same. The WiFi/Bluetooth adapter used by Bimmercode may technically draw some extra power compared to an Enet cable plugged into your laptop for E-Sys, but I would speculate that the power draw is negligible.

[jmciver]

One other nugget specifically for iPhone users that also use CarPlay....

In iDrive disconnect your phone from CarPlay. I have found that if I connect my phone to the Wifi adapter for coding, the car will sometimes re-connect to CarPlay, thus dropping the wifi connection to the wifi adapter for coding. There are a couple of ways you can do this. One is reconnecting your phone to your car the normal Bluetooth way, or you can just delete your phone from the car entirely. I usually just reconnect my phone to the car using standard Bluetooth.

Once you disconnect you phone from CarPlay, go into your WiFi settings and either turn off "auto join" for the CarPlay WiFi network or tap "forget this network". Doing this will ensure your iPhone does not try to reconnect to CarPlay, even if you disconnected your phone from CarPlay in iDrive.

[Zax71]

Originally Posted by livache

Okay, I understand the clocks do not go white... but these two parts from the red circle can stay white on the night ? Not to change in orange ? Stay like the pictures on the left...

Yes, You can change that with the coding. The gauges depend on the amber led lighting but everything on the screens can be put in "daytime mode".

KOMBI - 3007 - DIM_NACHT_EIN - VALUE (WERTE)=FF (dafault is 32 in HEX)

You will also have SATNAV constantly in daytime color scheme.

[Hypermile]

Originally Posted by evdok

I have both & find bimmercode has huge more options in expert mode.

The only good thing abt Carly is the ability for adaptation/reset like the transmission. This would be helpful after doing a t-case or trans fluid change. Even the ability to do a TBA on the phone vice in the car method.

[David0ff]

Quick question.
I want to use bimmercode androit plus thor wifi adapter to enable ASD (M3/4 sound) on my 2018 340xi.
I have HK SOund system and the ASD module in the trunk near the amp.
My car did not come with MPSSK
I find the car sounds like a vacuum cleaner right now and not liking it much,

Is it doable?

[Mr. C4]

My only issue with using Bimmercode has been that the Bluetooth dongle and Android phone has timed-out on a couple of occasions and I have had to do a restore. No clue why this is happening as the seatbelt is clipped in.