[pobrienny]

I have an N26 with 156k miles. Only issue thus far is oil leaks from the vacuum pump and valve cover. I replaced those at 145k. Still going strong!

[Slick_FThirty]

Originally Posted by pobrienny

I have an N26 with 156k miles. Only issue thus far is oil leaks from the vacuum pump and valve cover. I replaced those at 145k. Still going strong!

Does it have the original Timing Chain?

[hollovoid7]

I'm sure this has been answered, but anybody with a 2016 build n26 have any timing chain issues? I am planning on installing the updated tensioner, but just curious as most of the other components were upgraded for this year.

Hitting 100k later this month.

[pobrienny]

Originally Posted by Slick_FThirty

Does it have the original Timing Chain?

Yes it does. When I replaced the valve cover I inspected the timing chain with a horoscope. It was in good shape!

I think the key is regular oil changes and using premium gas. I'd like to know if those that have had timing chain issues used 87 octane gas on a regular basis?

[gtmaster303]

My 2012 528i xdrive just clicked over 160k.
Timing chain was done by the dealer at 72k (not covered under warranty, lawsuit ongoing).

Currently I have a drivetrain malfunction whenever I accelerate hard, so the car is almost always in limp mode (mechanic says it's a harmless boost leak but not worth fixing, so we drive as is - 50k miles or more).
Also have a low coolant warning (bad sensor, coolant level is fine).
Driver side headlight LED rings went out. Condensation built up and caused some issue, but everything still works.

Only real maintenance outside of brakes and tires:
I did spark plugs at 114k.
Oil gets changed whenever the computer tells me to, I use the cheapest synthetic oil and filter I can find

Even with those issues, the car just eats up miles dutifully. Can't complain (apart from the timing chain). Still drive my bahn burner hard, the car sees triple digit speeds often.

[adhrp]

Originally Posted by gtmaster303

My 2012 528i xdrive just clicked over 160k.

Currently I have a drivetrain malfunction whenever I accelerate hard, so the car is almost always in limp mode (mechanic says it's a harmless boost leak but not worth fixing, so we drive as is - 50k miles or more).


Only real maintenance outside of brakes and tires:
I did spark plugs at 114k.
Oil gets changed whenever the computer tells me to, I use the cheapest synthetic oil and filter I can find

I have had the same drivetrain malfunction issue for months now. In fact, my car is currently at the indy undergoing work to address it. It happens due to a leak in the turbo wastegate. The dealer recommended a turbo assembly replacement but my indy says that is not always necessary as the wastegate can be tightened a little. Let's see how that works when I get my car back in a couple of days. If it doesn't work, I will eventually get the pricy turbo assembly replacement done because the warning pops up everyday now, which is kind of annoying.

Re: spark plug change - was that your first one??
Re: oil change, your CBS interval is most likely 15k. I have halved that to 7.5-8k since the free maintenance was up at 50k miles, but good to know your car's going strong even with the 15k interval.

[Slick_FThirty]

Originally Posted by pobrienny

Yes it does. When I replaced the valve cover I inspected the timing chain with a horoscope. It was in good shape!

I think the key is regular oil changes and using premium gas. I'd like to know if those that have had timing chain issues used 87 octane gas on a regular basis?

What makes you think that the gas would have an effect on the timing chain? Genuine interest here.

My understanding was that the ECU would be able to detect a different octane and optimize the timings accordingly.

[pobrienny]

Originally Posted by Slick_FThirty

What makes you think that the gas would have an effect on the timing chain? Genuine interest here.

My understanding was that the ECU would be able to detect a different octane and optimize the timings accordingly.

BMW has stated that as a possible issue. There are no issues with the timing chain for these engines in Europe—the only place where there are problems is in the US. So the plausible difference could be attributed to using the lower octane gas which detonates at a higher temperature, causing degradation of the plastic components.

[M Smurf]

Originally Posted by pobrienny

BMW has stated that as a possible issue. There are no issues with the timing chain for these engines in Europe—the only place where there are problems is in the US. So the plausible difference could be attributed to using the lower octane gas which detonates at a higher temperature, causing degradation of the plastic components.

I wondered about this. Is there a difference among the timing chain build in NA vs the world? It's my reasoning, anyway, why I am not losing any sleep over a potential failure.

[Slick_FThirty]

Originally Posted by pobrienny

BMW has stated that as a possible issue. There are no issues with the timing chain for these engines in Europe—the only place where there are problems is in the US. So the plausible difference could be attributed to using the lower octane gas which detonates at a higher temperature, causing degradation of the plastic components.

Interesting, thanks.

This reminded me of an episode from Engineering Explained (

). Here, he explained how Europe does not have higher octane gas, but rather use a different labelling system.

Europe uses RON (research octane number).
The other type of test is MON (motor octane number). MON is the more difficult test that always has a lower number than RON.

North America uses PON (pump octane number), which is the average between MON and RON. This results in lower apparent octane values when it is actually the same fuel just evaluated using different metrics. The numbers between NA and EU cannot be directly compared.

Some example conversions:
87 US -> 91 EU
91 US -> 95 EU
93 US -> 98 EU

I believe in certain parts of the EU, 102 gas is available. I believe North America does not readily have an equivalent available, which would be more like 95 in the US. However, would BMW owners be putting in 102? Or would they put in the required 95 (91 equivalent) ? That is of course, owner-specific. Given how expensive gas is in the EU, I would imagine they would go by the requirements and just use 95 (91 equivalent).

In short, Europe uses an easier test on their gas to get nicer numbers. NA uses a test that incorporates harsher conditions and takes its average, which results in a lower number for identical gas.

But I see you also mention the use of Regular. I think that is a valid point, although EU does have an equivalent 91 available at the pumps generally. Owners there as well could be using 91 (87 equivalent).

[Slick_FThirty]

Some also say that it was a marketing strategy by the European oil companies to create the illusion of superior gas compared to the rest of the world and make the high cost of gas more justifiable.

I've certainly encountered an attitude in the EU where they believe their gas is the best in the world. This assumption and attitude helps to offset their expensive gas prices with a positive apparent trade off of getting a very high quality product.

However, gas in NA is as world-class as anywhere.

[pobrienny]

Originally Posted by Slick_FThirty

Some also say that it was a marketing strategy by the European oil companies to create the illusion of superior gas compared to the rest of the world and make the high cost of gas more justifiable.

I've certainly encountered an attitude in the EU where they believe their gas is the best in the world. This assumption and attitude helps to offset their expensive gas prices with a positive apparent trade off of getting a very high quality product.

However, gas in NA is as world-class as anywhere.

I think you can note that BMW doesn't just say "Recommend use of premium minimum 89 octane for optimum performance" but they require it.

[Slick_FThirty]

Originally Posted by pobrienny

I think you can note that BMW doesn't just say "Recommend use of premium minimum 89 octane for optimum performance" but they require it.

Yes absolutely. The specifications should be followed.

But if Europeans use 91, then they are effectively using 87 and are therefore below the minimum requirement as well. I don't see it as a North American specific concern.

[gtmaster303]

Originally Posted by adhrp

I have had the same drivetrain malfunction issue for months now. In fact, my car is currently at the indy undergoing work to address it. It happens due to a leak in the turbo wastegate. The dealer recommended a turbo assembly replacement but my indy says that is not always necessary as the wastegate can be tightened a little. Let's see how that works when I get my car back in a couple of days. If it doesn't work, I will eventually get the pricy turbo assembly replacement done because the warning pops up everyday now, which is kind of annoying.

Re: spark plug change - was that your first one??
Re: oil change, your CBS interval is most likely 15k. I have halved that to 7.5-8k since the free maintenance was up at 50k miles, but good to know your car's going strong even with the 15k interval.

No I had plugs changed around 40k right before the car went out of warranty. I thought the drivetrain malfunction was related to bad plugs so I had them swapped, but it made no difference. Mechanic told me the plugs were in decent shape but replaced them anyway since there was a decent amount of miles on them. I wouldn't hesitate to run plugs for at least 100k or more. Unless you have an issue it's unlikely they will need a change often, if ever.

Yes my oil change is typically 15k intervals. Any modern synthetic is very forgiving and even though 15k is on the higher side, I'm confident the car will be fine. Even if the car was in perfect condition, it's worth next to nothing at this mileage, so I just keep driving it

[adhrp]

Originally Posted by gtmaster303

No I had plugs changed around 40k right before the car went out of warranty. I thought the drivetrain malfunction was related to bad plugs so I had them swapped, but it made no difference. Mechanic told me the plugs were in decent shape but replaced them anyway since there was a decent amount of miles on them. I wouldn't hesitate to run plugs for at least 100k or more. Unless you have an issue it's unlikely they will need a change often, if ever.

Yes my oil change is typically 15k intervals. Any modern synthetic is very forgiving and even though 15k is on the higher side, I'm confident the car will be fine. Even if the car was in perfect condition, it's worth next to nothing at this mileage, so I just keep driving it

I agree with everything you said. I twice contemplated going higher than 60k on my plugs but changed them anyway. The plugs looked perfectly fine both times, so on the next change I am going to go higher - at least 80k or so, if not 100k. At that point the car will have about 200k miles on the odo (currently at 123k).

[sspade]

Originally Posted by M Smurf

I wondered about this. Is there a difference among the timing chain build in NA vs the world? It's my reasoning, anyway, why I am not losing any sleep over a potential failure.

All N20's produced at Ham's Hall... No regional manufacturing differences have been made public so very unlikely but, you never know what happens behind the scenes.

[MoarGeesPlease]

Howdy, first post. Read through the thread to get the vibe here. I have a decent amount of car history and (outside of this one) I do most of my own wrenching. First BMW, getting lots of help from a local BMW specialist recently.

Currently struggling to diagnose and fix a couple things. Considering selling it in the high market. Quotes at ~$7k online.

2013 X3 xdrive28i, purchased as a Certified PO in May 2015
~127k miles, was warrantied until 100k
Daily driver for my wife and family trips, occasional trips to redline
87 octane from top tier gas stations
15k oil changes until ~60k, then every 10k or less after
Regularly maintained with records, almost always BMW parts
Original timing chain, and all other major mechanical bits. K&N oiled air filter is only mod. Fixes: Trans cooler replaced under warranty, valve cover gasket replaced at 125k. Couple more minor ones.

Problems:
- Persistent Drivetrain Malfunction error that cuts power. Got worse as I noticed oil in vac lines. New vacuum pump, intake cam seal, boost solenoid, all close-by vac lines and connectors this weekend. Error still comes up, but only after lots of boost. Concerned it will continue to get more prevalent as it did last time.
- Occasional low oil pressure light in last 5k miles. Comes on after lots of boost. Definitely related to drivetrain malfunction error. Sensor bad?
- Oil level sensor replaced 3 weeks ago. Old one said it was constantly low on oil, ended up 3 quarts over at one point. New one will sometimes measure the oil properly, frustrating
- Rattling from exhaust side in engine bay. Loud off-throttle and often at idle, hardly noticeable on-throttle

Ideas?
- Battery is 6 years old. New by CPO BMW when I bought it in 2015
- Coils and plugs replaced about 30k ago
- Adjust turbo wastegate?
- Full computer scan by my mechanic? Will that tell me more specifics?

Love the car otherwise. Great features and drives beautifully, but I've got a kid on the way and need to decide if I'm ok putting a newborn in this car with hard to fix mechanical issues. New tires and new battery in next year will be ~$1.5k.

[adhrp]

Originally Posted by MoarGeesPlease

2013 X3 xdrive28i, purchased as a Certified PO in May 2015


Problems:
- Persistent Drivetrain Malfunction error that cuts power. Got worse as I noticed oil in vac lines. New vacuum pump, intake cam seal, boost solenoid, all close-by vac lines and connectors this weekend. Error still comes up, but only after lots of boost. Concerned it will continue to get more prevalent as it did last time.

Ideas?
- Adjust turbo wastegate?

I have this drivetrain malfunction that has been diagnosed as a turbo wastegate leak. Dealer recommended turbo replacement, indy said he can adjust the wastegate to see if it goes away. Currently waiting on this service to be done. Let's see how it pans out.

[MoarGeesPlease]

Originally Posted by adhrp

I have this drivetrain malfunction that has been diagnosed as a turbo wastegate leak. Dealer recommended turbo replacement, indy said he can adjust the wastegate to see if it goes away. Currently waiting on this service to be done. Let's see how it pans out.

Very curious on this one. I'll ask my guy about it too. He's mentioned it before. Wonder if it's to adjust it to dump more or less boost...

[adhrp]

Originally Posted by MoarGeesPlease

Very curious on this one. I'll ask my guy about it too. He's mentioned it before. Wonder if it's to adjust it to dump more or less boost...

It is to adjust it such that the leak stops. If that doesn't work then the whole assembly needs to be replaced for about $3500 parts+labor Who is your indy btw? I am in central NJ too.

[MoarGeesPlease]

Originally Posted by adhrp

It is to adjust it such that the leak stops. If that doesn't work then the whole assembly needs to be replaced for about $3500 parts+labor Who is your indy btw? I am in central NJ too.

Yikes. Actually considering selling this thing. I go to Ziggy's in/near Somerville.

[adhrp]

Originally Posted by MoarGeesPlease

Yikes. Actually considering selling this thing. I go to Ziggy's in/near Somerville.

Ha, I go to Ziggy's too. He's swamped lately so hasn't been able to take my car in yet, but hopefully soon. He changed the vacuum solenoid because he thought that was the issue (apparently he has seen those go bad on these turbos), but that did not fix the problem so now he's going to try adjusting the wastegate.