[FSociety]

Originally Posted by tr4ck_m3

Just found my dyno run here haha. Just wanted to chime in and say that the guys at PTF were great in assisting with my E30 tune.

They had some concerns with the fuel pump but it performs flawlessly E30 mix on my stock fuel pump. Probably because I'm PWG.

But yeah we went through at least 5 revisions. I can't thank the guys at PTF enough. Very pleased and happy with my E30 tune as it sits.

I have no doubt that with 93 oct + lower ambient temperatures I would be able to get those number even higher. EAS had some issues getting the RPM measurements so this was actually 6 continuous runs with little to no breaks. It rose to 100*F+ which wasn't really reflected as I snapped the temperature pics at the beginning of the run. By the time we figured out the RPM sensor issue, I wasn't really paying attention to the temperatures anymore but it was 100f+

Their fans weren't the best either. Barely any CFM. I may do another dyno when temperatures cool down.

If I run E35-E40 mix on E30 tune will that create any potential issues? Since I have a PWG, I want to push the E85 a bit more to make up for it's shortfalls.

You would have to monitor this small increments by checking your logs for HPFP Target + Actual as long as it doesn't drop below 1950psi under 100% WOT should be good. Also, keep an eye on STFT (Trims).

Bring a fan with you or visit another Dynojet that has fans

Originally Posted by 135iDCT

if i flash by bootmod, should i set the jb4 to map0?

You will fail flashing if your JB4 is active on any map other than 0, for safety i would put it on map0 turn off car wait 1 minute disconnect from OBD2 lock doors wait 1-2mins so car goes to sleepy. Go back to car and connect the OBD2 to Enet cable, then press ignition without touching brake.

Originally Posted by harkes

If you dont want to use the JB4 then you should disconnect it. If you want to use it for logging and the display gauges then disconnect everything but the TMAP and set map0.

No need to disconnect anything as long as its on map0 and then unplugging from OBD2 will suffice.

Originally Posted by 135iDCT

what do u mean by dis everything? ill run jb4 as normal + bm3

read above

[Tchao]

Originally Posted by harkes

With E the AFR does not change but the volume of fuel used does.

I found this from Cobb which explains it nicely
https://www.cobbtuning.com/bmw-n54-a...rnate-fuels-2/

That is incorrect.

Remember Lambda and AFR are not the same. You will indeed have the same lambda but your actual Air to fuel ratio will change, as you stated you are now dumping more fuel to keep the same lambda.

Our sensors read lambda. Which then gets translated into gasoline AFR. But your actual AFR is changing with more Ethanol.

[afranke]

Originally Posted by FSociety

No need to disconnect anything as long as its on map0 and then unplugging from OBD2 will suffice.

Not always the case these days. I put mine in map0 and it limited to stock boost even with the BM3 BEF. Terry specifically told me to disconnect PWG connection as well, and all was better: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=259

[harkes]

Originally Posted by Tchao

That is incorrect.

Remember Lambda and AFR are not the same. You will indeed have the same lambda but your actual Air to fuel ratio will change, as you stated you are now dumping more fuel to keep the same lambda.

Our sensors read lambda. Which then gets translated into gasoline AFR. But your actual AFR is changing with more Ethanol.

You are ofcourse correct - I meant to say lambda As AFR is a measure of ratio the more methanol you add the lower AFR will be to obtain lambda 1 - all the way down to 6.4:1 for 100% methanol.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by afranke

Not always the case these days. I put mine in map0 and it limited to stock boost even with the BM3 BEF. Terry specifically told me to disconnect PWG connection as well, and all was better: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=259

PWG issue not EWG sorry

[PabloK]

Hey guys,
Quick couple of questions.

Just sent in my "new customer form" with my vin to BM3

Saw 2 sections that I was curious as to what other guys have done.

Burble
-OEM
-GTS Style vs Aggressive
-What Burble option do you guys like? I have EWGN55 with DP and Remus axle back

Cold Start
-on vs off
-Does this essentially open the exhaust flap on cold start so it's louder?

Thanks guys,
VERY excited to get the file loaded into the car! sounds like it only takes a couple days for them to turn it around

BM3 FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[lens]

Originally Posted by PabloK

Hey guys,
Quick couple of questions.

Just sent in my "new customer form" with my vin to BM3

Saw 2 sections that I was curious as to what other guys have done.

Burble
-OEM
-GTS Style vs Aggressive
-What Burble option do you guys like? I have EWGN55 with DP and Remus axle back

Cold Start
-on vs off
-Does this essentially open the exhaust flap on cold start so it's louder?

Thanks guys,
VERY excited to get the file loaded into the car! sounds like it only takes a couple days for them to turn it around

BM3 FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have PWG, but if I had EWG.

I would do GTS burble as the Agressive is too much for a DD, it's fun to have if you just wanna show off and make noise, but if you're driving around and doing track, GTS burble is perfect.

Cold start I turned off as I'm catless. It quiets the exhaust for I'd say around 50% quieter. It's also better for the engine as cold starts are very bad for the engine. The whole point of cold starts is to warm up the cat for emissions. What it is basically is when you first turn on the car when it's cold, its loud for around 15-30 seconds and your RPM rises to about 1-1.5k to warm the cat. When you turn it off, it goes to around 6-800rpm (basically idle RPM)

[PabloK]

Originally Posted by chaungo

I have PWG, but if I had EWG.

I would do GTS burble as the Agressive is too much for a DD, it's fun to have if you just wanna show off and make noise, but if you're driving around and doing track, GTS burble is perfect.

Cold start I turned off as I'm catless. It quiets the exhaust for I'd say around 50% quieter. It's also better for the engine as cold starts are very bad for the engine. The whole point of cold starts is to warm up the cat for emissions. What it is basically is when you first turn on the car when it's cold, its loud for around 15-30 seconds and your RPM rises to about 1-1.5k to warm the cat. When you turn it off, it goes to around 6-800rpm (basically idle RPM)

Great info Chaungo,

Thank for the help! How are you liking the BM3?

I'm looking at your mods and my car is almost identical but with EWG. I'll be running pump gas 93.

I'm switching from a JB4 setup, just curious on your thoughts of the BM3... Did they have a Pure stage 2 map for you? Is that their map called "Bootmod3 S2"?

Thanks for your help man!

[lens]

Originally Posted by PabloK

Great info Chaungo,

Thank for the help! How are you liking the BM3?

I'm looking at your mods and my car is almost identical but with EWG. I'll be running pump gas 93.

I'm switching from a JB4 setup, just curious on your thoughts of the BM3... Did they have a Pure stage 2 map for you? Is that their map called "Bootmod3 S2"?

Thanks for your help man!

They have a upgraded turbo OTS map, but to get full advantage of the upgraded turbo, you'll need a custom tune which is around 300$

Car feels great, and I'm very happy it's not like JB4 where it pulls timing and gets drivetrain malfunctions randomly. JB4 for me was a nightmare and there were too many damn wires.

The damn Bluetooth adapter JB4 provided almost fried my DME as well. I was driving and one day the car threw literally every single code possible on the highway and I had to pull over to see wtf was going on. Literally had transmission overheat, engine overheat, transfer case, literally EVERYTHING popped, and a backfire came from behind as it did. I reset the car and everything was normal again.

From then on, I sold the JB4 and Bluetooth and got Bootmod3. Had a problem with drivetrain malfunction as well, but it was due to the target boost being too high (nothing serious at all, I had PWG, and target boost was for 18-19psi but it should be 16 as that's where PWG turbo maxes out) and they reduced it. And from my 5 month ownership, never had any problems at all after that, just improvements to my OTS maps and such.

Their customer service is top knotch, if you have ANY problems, send in a ticket or message them directly if it's urgent and they'll fix it in hours. I've sent in a log and had the revision done within a couple hours, and if I needed something done or a question, my answer would come very quickly. I've never had such great customer service anywhere else other than Pure Turbos, both of them are great.

[PabloK]

Originally Posted by chaungo

They have a upgraded turbo OTS map, but to get full advantage of the upgraded turbo, you'll need a custom tune which is around 300$

Car feels great, and I'm very happy it's not like JB4 where it pulls timing and gets drivetrain malfunctions randomly. JB4 for me was a nightmare and there were too many damn wires.

The damn Bluetooth adapter JB4 provided almost fried my DME as well. I was driving and one day the car threw literally every single code possible on the highway and I had to pull over to see wtf was going on. Literally had transmission overheat, engine overheat, transfer case, literally EVERYTHING popped, and a backfire came from behind as it did. I reset the car and everything was normal again.

From then on, I sold the JB4 and Bluetooth and got Bootmod3. Had a problem with drivetrain malfunction as well, but it was due to the target boost being too high (nothing serious at all, I had PWG, and target boost was for 18-19psi but it should be 16 as that's where PWG turbo maxes out) and they reduced it. And from my 5 month ownership, never had any problems at all after that, just improvements to my OTS maps and such.

Their customer service is top knotch, if you have ANY problems, send in a ticket or message them directly if it's urgent and they'll fix it in hours. I've sent in a log and had the revision done within a couple hours, and if I needed something done or a question, my answer would come very quickly. I've never had such great customer service anywhere else other than Pure Turbos, both of them are great.

Thats great to hear. I also had many issues with the JB4 and just couldn't stand the wires all over my engine bay.

Did you go ahead with the $300 custom map or do you think the supplied map is sufficient for us?

Really appreciate the in-depth response.

[Insane435]

Is the GTS/Aggressive burble tied to the map you purchase? So if i wanted to be able to change between the 2, i would need a S2 GTS and a S2 Aggressive map? Or can i switch between GTS and aggressive within one map?

[lens]

Originally Posted by PabloK

Thats great to hear. I also had many issues with the JB4 and just couldn't stand the wires all over my engine bay.

Did you go ahead with the $300 custom map or do you think the supplied map is sufficient for us?

Really appreciate the in-depth response.

I'm about to get the custom map soon. I've milked the OTS map for all it's worth and it's not enough. That's my opinion, maybe for you it might be sufficient enough.

[lens]

Originally Posted by Insane435

Is the GTS/Aggressive burble tied to the map you purchase? So if i wanted to be able to change between the 2, i would need a S2 GTS and a S2 Aggressive map? Or can i switch between GTS and aggressive within one map?

You can request the same map with two different burbles, just ask them for a copy of one but different burble.

[HKD126]

FWIW, I have a catless downpipe on my car and full AWE exhaust. The burbles in OEM configuration (when in sport mode) are insane and nonstop. Constant crackles and pops every time my foot lets off the accelerator. I could not even imagine what GTS or aggressive are like, nor do I want to know.

[PabloK]

Originally Posted by HKD126

FWIW, I have a catless downpipe on my car and full AWE exhaust. The burbles in OEM configuration (when in sport mode) are insane and nonstop. Constant crackles and pops every time my foot lets off the accelerator. I could not even imagine what GTS or aggressive are like, nor do I want to know.

Good info. It's nice to hear every once in a while but I'm not looking for something too crazy. I'll ask for the OEM variation.

And to confirm it's best to leave the cold start valve closed to let the engine warm up faster as it's better for the car? Being in MN I don't want to cause any premature harm to engine when I fire it up at 0 degrees.

[lens]

Originally Posted by PabloK

Good info. It's nice to hear every once in a while but I'm not looking for something too crazy. I'll ask for the OEM variation.

And to confirm it's best to leave the cold start valve closed to let the engine warm up faster as it's better for the car? Being in MN I don't want to cause any premature harm to engine when I fire it up at 0 degrees.

What cold start delete is basically turning off the cold starts. So when you first turn on the car for the first time it won't do a cold start. If you don't delete cold start, it will leave it on and be loud in the mornings and heat up a non existant cat and harm your engine in the long run for no reason.

[HKD126]

Originally Posted by PabloK

Good info. It's nice to hear every once in a while but I'm not looking for something too crazy. I'll ask for the OEM variation.

And to confirm it's best to leave the cold start valve closed to let the engine warm up faster as it's better for the car? Being in MN I don't want to cause any premature harm to engine when I fire it up at 0 degrees.

I was told by my BM3 installer in Chicago to leave cold start on for those of us in cold climates. I live in Wisconsin, so... Yeah, it gets cold too.

[lens]

Originally Posted by HKD126

I was told by my BM3 installer in Chicago to leave cold start on for those of us in cold climates. I live in Wisconsin, so... Yeah, it gets cold too.

I live in extreme cold where it's an average of -35C during the winter months. And I'd still leave it off. Don't want thick oil circulating around that high of a rpm.

[Tchao]

Interesting, I thought cold start was purely for catalytic reasons, and not really to do with with engine warm up, since it only last like 20secs.

[obriennathaniel]

Originally Posted by Tchao

Interesting, I thought cold start was purely for catalytic reasons, and not really to do with with engine warm up, since it only last like 20secs.

You’re correct, it seems as if there’s some dealers/customers out there who have been misinformed or misunderstood. If you’re catless, then you should turn off cold start.

[harkes]

Cold start is awesome with de-cat - and so are the OEM burbles Just enough to get noticed and too little to be obnoxious (thats what I tell myself anyway)

[PabloK]

Hey guys,

I'm having some issues activating my account with the BM3 WIFI module and IOS app.

-BM3 App opens up properly, and says "connected: VIN XXXX". All wifi connections between my hotspot and the wifi module seem to be in working order.
-However, once I sign in, I get the following message, "Welcome to bootmod3. It appears that vehicle details have not been registered for this account."
-I have not received an "activation key". Is this something I punch into the APP?



-SSR Performance sent my 4mb ECU file to BM3 yesterday.
-I have an active ticket open with the service desk but I believe they might be out for the weekend.. was hoping to have the car going for the weekend.
-My last communication with the service desk was them asking if "SSR had sent over the file yet"

Did I miss a step?
Appreciate any help! Pumped to get the car in action!