[Kevin_Trxn]

Originally Posted by New2010

Has anyone installed a cat back on a awd model because they don’t have make it for a awd model and already purchased it for my car?

Either find an AWD exhaust or go to a custom exhaust shop to make it fit.
It should be straight forward as it's just a straight pipe until the muffler.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Kevin_Trxn

Either find an AWD exhaust or go to a custom exhaust shop to make it fit.
It should be straight forward as it's just a straight pipe until the muffler.

Agreed, a good exhaust shop can modify it fairly easily for probably a few hours of labor.

[ctbear]

So is anyone running this exhaust on their F30 N55 335i?

https://afepower.com/afe-power-49-36...exhaust-system

Any reviews?

[TheJungatron]

Very interested to see if a 335i can run this. The AFE website states that it can...

Originally Posted by ctbear

So is anyone running this exhaust on their F30 N55 335i?

https://afepower.com/afe-power-49-36...exhaust-system

Any reviews?

[ctbear]

Originally Posted by Jungatron

Very interested to see if a 335i can run this. The AFE website states that it can...

Seems like it is pricey compared to other exhausts on the market so don't see many people, if any, running these.

[codestar]

Originally Posted by ctbear

Seems like it is pricey compared to other exhausts on the market so don't see many people, if any, running these.

I have the axle back version on order for my 435i xdrive. I plan to do a resonator delete, which I understand would make it essentially the same as the catback. The full catback version says not compatible with xdrive, and I think the res delete is cheaper to do for the same result.

The N55 axleback part # is 49-36336-B. This is the valved one not the original which is part # 49-36325-B.

Will post back when it is complete!

[ctbear]

Originally Posted by codestar

I have the axle back version on order for my 435i xdrive. I plan to do a resonator delete, which I understand would make it essentially the same as the catback. The full catback version says not compatible with xdrive, and I think the res delete is cheaper to do for the same result.

The N55 axleback part # is 49-36336-B. This is the valved one not the original which is part # 49-36325-B.

Will post back when it is complete!

Awesome. Can you post a stock vs. before res-delete vs. after res-delete video?

[codestar]

Originally Posted by ctbear

Awesome. Can you post a stock vs. before res-delete vs. after res-delete video?

Haven't deleted the resonator yet. Decided to wait until the muffler sound settles and then getting a fabspeed dp. If it's still not where I want it after the downpipe then I'm going to remove the resonator.

Here's a cold start comparison I just made. Hoping to get a warm revs and drive-by video this weekend done

[mlev]

Originally Posted by codestar

Haven't deleted the resonator yet. Decided to wait until the muffler sound settles and then getting a fabspeed dp. If it's still not where I want it after the downpipe then I'm going to remove the resonator.

Here's a cold start comparison I just made. Hoping to get a warm revs and drive-by video this weekend done

Thanks for making the vid, sounds good. Does it get significantly more quiet in comfort/eco mode? Wondering how much control you actually are getting out of the valve for this Axleback

[Kevin_Trxn]

Originally Posted by mlev

Thanks for making the vid, sounds good. Does it get significantly more quiet in comfort/eco mode? Wondering how much control you actually are getting out of the valve for this Axleback

I believe what you heard in his video is the valves closed.

It takes a bit for the car to warm up and open the valves.

On my 340i with the cat back
It makes a pretty good difference.
Valves closed there isn't any backfire(pops)
And you don't hear it much cruising around.
Its louder than stock but a notch or two.

valves open and standing outside its a different story.

Our cars are quiet as in on the inside.
So all you hear with windows up and valves open is more roar; you can still have a conversation.

[ctbear]

Originally Posted by codestar

Haven't deleted the resonator yet. Decided to wait until the muffler sound settles and then getting a fabspeed dp. If it's still not where I want it after the downpipe then I'm going to remove the resonator.

Here's a cold start comparison I just made. Hoping to get a warm revs and drive-by video this weekend done

Nice. Thanks for the video. Sounds like cold start (valve closed) is louder than stock. Can you do a longer startup video that way the valve is given enough time to open? thanks

[codestar]

Originally Posted by ctbear

Nice. Thanks for the video. Sounds like cold start (valve closed) is louder than stock. Can you do a longer startup video that way the valve is given enough time to open? thanks

Was planning on a more in depth vid after my work trip. Actually just got the resonator cut out so it's a fair bit louder now as well. Problem is the shop I used backed my car into another car, and I'll have to send my car into the autobody for a week after I get back for a new bumper, paint, and taillight :

I'll be getting to it after!

[codestar]

Originally Posted by Kevin_Trxn

I just bent the clip that connects the valve motor and the flap to put more pressure on the flap when close

I tried to reset the motor but that doesn't seem to budge
I also tried to unscrew and reposition the bracket but that was too much of and adjustment

So I went with bending the clip and it worked out nicely

I actually just had this happen this morning. Think you could message me the correspondence with afe? Thanks!

[ctbear]

Originally Posted by codestar

I actually just had this happen this morning. Think you could message me the correspondence with afe? Thanks!

Hope they were able to fix your car. Any updates on the exhaust? Any new videos of it with the valve open and some revs? Thanks.

[codestar]

Originally Posted by Kevin_Trxn

I just bent the clip that connects the valve motor and the flap to put more pressure on the flap when close

I tried to reset the motor but that doesn't seem to budge
I also tried to unscrew and reposition the bracket but that was too much of and adjustment

So I went with bending the clip and it worked out nicely

Tried this last night. Still having a rattle, but it's only on medium-ish acceleration just before the valve opens over 2k rpm. I think it's the exhaust pressure from the bm3 stage 2 tune. Unfortunately the rattle happens quite a bit in stop and go. Also doesn't happen at all when revving while stationary.

Still open to ideas to fix this

[Kevin_Trxn]

Originally Posted by codestar

Tried this last night. Still having a rattle, but it's only on medium-ish acceleration just before the valve opens over 2k rpm. I think it's the exhaust pressure from the bm3 stage 2 tune. Unfortunately the rattle happens quite a bit in stop and go. Also doesn't happen at all when revving while stationary.

Still open to ideas to fix this

How much did u bend the clip?

I had to unscrew the Emotor slip the bent clip into the slots and twist the whole Emotor assembly and screw back into place. There is a good amount of pressure keeping my flap closed and there was no way for me to slip the clip in without taking out the Emotor

[Kevin_Trxn]

Originally Posted by codestar

Tried this last night. Still having a rattle, but it's only on medium-ish acceleration just before the valve opens over 2k rpm. I think it's the exhaust pressure from the bm3 stage 2 tune. Unfortunately the rattle happens quite a bit in stop and go. Also doesn't happen at all when revving while stationary.

Still open to ideas to fix this

How much did u bend the clip?

I had to unscrew the Emotor slip the bent clip into the slots and twist the whole Emotor assembly and screw back into place. There is a good amount of pressure keeping my flap closed and there was no way for me to slip the clip in without taking out the Emotor

[codestar]

Originally Posted by Kevin_Trxn

How much did u bend the clip?

I had to unscrew the Emotor slip the bent clip into the slots and twist the whole Emotor assembly and screw back into place. There is a good amount of pressure keeping my flap closed and there was no way for me to slip the clip in without taking out the Emotor

I bent the fixing bow to be pretty much identical to the one you posted a photo of. Didn't have to unscrew the motor though, it is in its default position

[Kevin_Trxn]

Originally Posted by codestar

I bent the fixing bow to be pretty much identical to the one you posted a photo of. Didn't have to unscrew the motor though, it is in its default position

If you were able to get the clip on without removing the Emotor then you may not have enough pressure. I would recommend trying to unscrew the bracket and the Emotor and use the holes provided to mount the bracket more clockwise than oem

[codestar]

Originally Posted by Kevin_Trxn

If you were able to get the clip on without removing the Emotor then you may not have enough pressure. I would recommend trying to unscrew the bracket and the Emotor and use the holes provided to mount the bracket more clockwise than oem

I'll try and crawl under and mess around more tomorrow and hopefully get it better. I added a vibrant 1142 resonator and it made the exhaust sound waaaaay better but the valve still sounds really annoying.

Here's comfort:

And here's sport+

[misguided_will]

this exhaust looks good except for the widespread rattle and fitment issue.

can anyone else confirm if they had alignment issues with the tips when installing?

when does afe usually do sales? 25% off would be amazing.