[Gospeedracer]

Thank you! For figuring this out. Made an account just to say so. The clutch was just about my only gripe with my f32. Now it is worlds better. The car will lug around in low gears and when on the highway will over take quicker. First gear takes off like a Normal car without the hesitation of the clutch delay.To those debating the outcomes. If you intended to drive the car with any type of gusto(like you should be) then do it. Don't let this pedal instill bad habits. Downshifts are now possible and she kicks out better than ever.

[TurboAra]

Originally Posted by Gospeedracer

Thank you! For figuring this out. Made an account just to say so. The clutch was just about my only gripe with my f32. Now it is worlds better. The car will lug around in low gears and when on the highway will over take quicker. First gear takes off like a Normal car without the hesitation of the clutch delay.To those debating the outcomes. If you intended to drive the car with any type of gusto(like you should be) then do it. Don't let this pedal instill bad habits. Downshifts are now possible and she kicks out better than ever.

Hell yea! Glad you did the mod. I love my car a lot better now. Was hoping a moderator would make this a Sticky because every manual F series needs this done. I’m going to try and mirror this thread over to the other sections. It also makes for a much easier driving experience.

[B58 parts]

I did mine today.

Those 2 bolts were a real pain in the ass. The crow foot to loosen the lower one was useful. To tighten it I had better luck with a socket, a swivel, and a 6" extension. The top bolt, I guess it came down to luck and patience. Socket, 6" extension, swivel, 12" extension downward worked. Once I got it to thread and kept the socket on it .. I got into a good rythym. It was just hard to find the head. I have no idea how I got it to thread in .. lucky.

Of course I connected the lines and forgot about that metal bracket. Disconnect .. try again.

It was really a problem of lighting more than anything else. My garage is not very well lit. Doing it out in the driveway with the daylight may have been a good idea, or actually one of those headlamps would have been huge. I had to balance the worklight on my chest most of the time.

I was able to get the bitch part out really easy with a pick tool. It didn't even fight. To drill it, I put a suitable pair of pliers up in the vise, and held it that way. Drill very slowly with the flanges up. I used 3/32 7/64 1/8. When I put it back together I still saw some of that metal so I went back and did 9/64 for good measure.

I wasn't able to reverse bleed it though... My 11mm wrench is too long and the front prop shaft is totally in the way. Those of you that have done this .. anyone with xdrive? It was impossible to get the bleed screw moving.

I could not get any turn on the bleeder due to the wrench and the prop shaft. Especially with a syringe of horrible chemical hanging there. I ended up getting some brake fluid spilled and bailed for the day. I briefly considered removing the prop shaft, but nah. I bench filled it, so there's a very small amount of air.

I need an _11mm stubby ratcheting box wrench_. And a headlamp. Later this week I'll get that and bleed it, and flush the whole res, and bleed the brakes too.

So, for today the pedal feels a bit lousy due to a small air bubble, but yeah it drives much better. Like a normal car.. it is noticeable, not placebo.

I did dig the BMS clutch stop out of the trash bin. I will try again with two washers. And of course since week one I've had the FDL coding to disable the blasphemous auto rematch. Now we are really cooking. They still give you a manual but god damnit do they cut it down from the factory.

Thanks especially to OP Turboara for discovering this and starting this off, jparnes1 for the great additional write-up, and the others that have already had the stones to try it. I am super amped.

[Remonster]

Originally Posted by YuminNuman

Slave Cylinder
Product ID: 21-52-6-795-713
$72.30

Not bad .... it's not $400 or something. I'm considering. Would like some more analysis of this first though..

I just checked and it is the same part number for my 340i so I'm definitely gonna try this. CDV delete was one of my favorite mods I've done to my past cars and I was becoming extremely, extremely annoyed that it didn't seem like it could be easily done on this F30.

Also, anyone reading this because they're annoyed by their clutch pedal behavior - you need to get rid of your clutch pedal return spring for a heavier, linear feeling clutch pedal without the annoying change in resistance half way down. I have already done this on my F30 and it's a big improvement with zero drawback that I've noticed. It was also done on my previous E92 M3.

Links to DIY guides below, these are for E8x/E9x cars but the process is exactly the same for F series except you only have two nuts to remove to drop the interior trim panel instead of 3 screws so it's even 1% easier.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=17854838

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195777

[B58 parts]

Got the wrench I needed and bled it tonight. Tekton 11mm stubby ratcheting box .. with the switch on it so you can close the nut.

This really is different .. downshifts in particular have been amazing, every time. Can't even feel it. This is a nice gearbox all of a sudden.

[TurboAra]

Originally Posted by YuminNuman

Got the wrench I needed and bled it tonight. Tekton 11mm stubby ratcheting box .. with the switch on it so you can close the nut.

This really is different .. downshifts in particular have been amazing, every time. Can't even feel it. This is a nice gearbox all of a sudden.

Nice man, glad you tackled the job. I can imagine the prop shaft being in the way on XI models and it makes the already cramped space even worse. If you are going to bleed the brakes make sure you follow proper procedure for our cars, there is 2 bleeders each on the front calipers and the way the abs is set up the bleeding is done across I think.

[Remonster]

Just did this today and decided to be brave and try to skip the drilling and just eliminate the metal piece and the black plastic piece that holds it in place entirely. The line looked like it would seal properly against the slave when inserted without those two pieces so I just tossed them aside and connected the line back into the slave.

When bleeding the fluid, pressure bleed + vacuum bleed works well, you need the second phase of sucking air out the top or you'll have a soft pedal after the normal bleeding procedure and it is holding just fine with zero leaks.

[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by Remonster

Just did this today and decided to be brave and try to skip the drilling and just eliminate the metal piece and the black plastic piece that holds it in place entirely. The line looked like it would seal properly against the slave when inserted without those two pieces so I just tossed them aside and connected the line back into the slave.

When bleeding the fluid, pressure bleed + vacuum bleed works well, you need the second phase of sucking air out the top or you'll have a soft pedal after the normal bleeding procedure and it is holding just fine with zero leaks.

Brave man indeed! Glad you found success with the gamble. When I do this DIY I think I'd rather go this route to make absolutely sure I'm not putting any metal flakes into the lines, as long as you aren't finding any detriment.

[Remonster]

Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB

Brave man indeed! Glad you found success with the gamble. When I do this DIY I think I'd rather go this route to make absolutely sure I'm not putting any metal flakes into the lines, as long as you aren't finding any detriment.

I work at a shop and waited until someone missed their appointment and I had a tech with nothing better to do so there was hardly any risk. We could have just taken the slave back out and put those two pieces in, we had actually already drilled out the metal piece when him, I, and our shop foreman decided to see if it looked like the metal piece and accompanying black rubber piece that holds it in place were even necessary. I believe the black part is only there keep the metal restrictor stuck in place so if you're going to ditch one, ditch both.

Along with a perfectly responsive clutch pedal and no more unnecessary slippage, you get a lot more feedback through the clutch pedal. I also have the clutch pedal return spring removed from my car so the pedal is very firm and I can feel everything that's going on. I think I finally understand why the CDV is there, it does improve smoothness by filtering out some of what the fluid could be telling you through your foot but I am much, much happier this way. If you like your clutch pedal to be as soft and smooth as possible, you'll probably be happier with the CDV left alone.

Controversial opinion: I feel the without the CDV, BMW would not have to limit the torque of the MPPSK for us manual 340i owners. With the factory clutch setup, it was SO easy to accidentally slip the clutch during aggressive acceleration but it's borderline impossible with the CDV deleted. I purposely tried to make it slip like it did before and it just GRABS now and the car takes off.

[Remonster]

After driving the car home in stop and go traffic and then driving to work this morning on some fun roads, it's just perfect.

You may be able skip taking the clutch slave off of the car at all. It's tricky to use a pick and pull the metal and black rubber restrictor pieces out once the line is removed but definitely possible. If you can do it that way, all you'd have to do is take off the under panelling that may be in your way, disconnect the line, use a pick to pull out the restrictor, re-connect the line, re-install the under panel, and bleed the fluid using a power bleeder and then a vacuum bleed from the top.

[B58 parts]

For sure the best thing I've done to the car. I notice the downshifts are super quick and smooth, less noticeable change on the upshifts for me, but for sure improved.

It's really a great gearbox, it's a shame they make it act stupid like that. I think it's all part of catering to those who can't drive standard (no throttle needed to move, auto rev match, hill holder, CDV, pedal spring, extra travel at the bottom so the clutch is for sure disengaged). ETC...

Now you have me wondering if I should just take those parts out. I don't want to go under there again .... ugh. I'm not too worried about any metal shavings, I deburred it, blew everything with air, and flushed with fluid. I had the thought just to remove them, but didn't want to. It didn't look like they sealed anything, but I didn't want to risk that. In hindsight if you're saying no leaks with them out, the smart thing to do is remove them and skip the drill.

I'm going to have to remove that spring now.....

[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by Remonster

After driving the car home in stop and go traffic and then driving to work this morning on some fun roads, it's just perfect.

You may be able skip taking the clutch slave off of the car at all. It's tricky to use a pick and pull the metal and black rubber restrictor pieces out once the line is removed but definitely possible. If you can do it that way, all you'd have to do is take off the under panelling that may be in your way, disconnect the line, use a pick to pull out the restrictor, re-connect the line, re-install the under panel, and bleed the fluid using a power bleeder and then a vacuum bleed from the top.

This will probably be the route I go. Unfortunately won't have a free day to wrench until next weekend.

I do have a question about the bleeding. I have a Motive Power Bleeder to take care of my brake flushes, would this be able to also bleed the clutch properly? You say vacuum bleed from the top, I'm assuming this is another device that does the exact opposite of a power bleeder? (removing pressure instead of adding)

What has everyone else done to bleed their lines?

[Remonster]

Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB

This will probably be the route I go. Unfortunately won't have a free day to wrench until next weekend.

I do have a question about the bleeding. I have a Motive Power Bleeder to take care of my brake flushes, would this be able to also bleed the clutch properly? You say vacuum bleed from the top, I'm assuming this is another device that does the exact opposite of a power bleeder? (removing pressure instead of adding)

What has everyone else done to bleed their lines?

It seems to me that there is some sort of one-way check valve that prevents all air from coming out from the bottom. We used a power bleeder twice in a row and noticed the pedal was still soft. Once you're done with the power bleed and have everything sealed up at the bottom, attach a hand pump to the fluid reservoir to suck the air out from the top. There was still a LOT of air left in the system at this point and I believe the original poster in this thread ran into the same issue.

I believe this is typical of these cars, we have already bled my car last year (during install of stainless brake lines) and found we were unable to bleed my clutch fluid with only the power bleeder. Following up by sucking the air out of the top gets all the remaining air out and leaves you with perfect clutch & brake pedal feel.

[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by Remonster

It seems to me that there is some sort of one-way check valve that prevents all air from coming out from the bottom. We used a power bleeder twice in a row and noticed the pedal was still soft. Once you're done with the power bleed and have everything sealed up at the bottom, attach a hand pump to the fluid reservoir to suck the air out from the top. There was still a LOT of air left in the system at this point and I believe the original poster in this thread ran into the same issue.

I believe this is typical of these cars, we have already bled my car last year (during install of stainless brake lines) and found we were unable to bleed my clutch fluid with only the power bleeder. Following up by sucking the air out of the top gets all the remaining air out and leaves you with perfect clutch & brake pedal feel.

Excellent information, thank you. For anyone else out there looking for clarity on how to get this bled properly, I want to ask if this is the setup you'd say would accomplish that vacuum bleed from the top/reservoir.

This vacuum bleed kit (or similar): https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Universal.../dp/B00KB9D3UO

With this cap adapter below, assuming the hoses fit that nipple:

[Remonster]

Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB

Excellent information, thank you. For anyone else out there looking for clarity on how to get this bled properly, I want to ask if this is the setup you'd say would accomplish that vacuum bleed from the top/reservoir.

This vacuum bleed kit (or similar): https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Universal.../dp/B00KB9D3UO

With this cap adapter below, assuming the hoses fit that nipple:

Yep, that should be perfect.

[jpsimon]

Wow thank you for this! Glad someone figured this out.

[MomoM3]

Great info. Now that I’ve had my 340i 6MT for 2.5 years I find this thread. I’ve gripped about the slipping feeling this clutch gives me from day one. I’ve never felt this on my e46 or e92 but def feel it in my f30. Moving to an f80 in a few weeks and hope I don’t feel it there.

[delvec03]

just did this today on my 228i. I THINK I did the bleed correctly....most obvious change is the clutch grab feels lower. first bit if the clutch feels a tad spongey, I think, which leads me to believe there is a tad bit of air in the system. might try and bleed the slave at the next oil change.

does the lower clutch grab make sense with the mod or is it signs of air?

thanks all!

[jparnes1]

Originally Posted by delvec03

just did this today on my 228i. I THINK I did the bleed correctly....most obvious change is the clutch grab feels lower. first bit if the clutch feels a tad spongey, I think, which leads me to believe there is a tad bit of air in the system. might try and bleed the slave at the next oil change.

does the lower clutch grab make sense with the mod or is it signs of air?

thanks all!

Don't bleed it right away. Drive it a bit and it may self-bleed. That's how mine went.

[delvec03]

Originally Posted by jparnes1

Don't bleed it right away. Drive it a bit and it may self-bleed. That's how mine went.

hopped in today and the clutch needed to be pumped up again. I'll see how it is through the week. not a god sign today.

thanks fir the tip.

[TurboAra]

Originally Posted by delvec03

hopped in today and the clutch needed to be pumped up again. I'll see how it is through the week. not a god sign today.

thanks fir the tip.

If Pedel is low that means you still have air in the system. Use the syringe method to push new fluid from bottom to the top.

[delvec03]

Originally Posted by TurboAra

If Pedel is low that means you still have air in the system. Use the syringe method to push new fluid from bottom to the top.

I was able to get all the air out via gravity bleed. surprisingly simple vs reverse bleed method. I'd recommend to try this before the syringe method. didn't even have to take the slave off the trans to do it!

super happy with the results. now I need to learn how to drive stick again...ha