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      05-15-2019, 04:38 PM   #221
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Which brake fluid did you guys use? Never had to personally purchase brake fluid, yet alone for a BMW.
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      05-16-2019, 01:33 AM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waltabeast View Post
Which brake fluid did you guys use? Never had to personally purchase brake fluid, yet alone for a BMW.
ATE is a good option, they are also the CM of BMW for the brake fluid.
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      05-17-2019, 01:18 PM   #223
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My apologies if my question has been answered, but which M Performance rear rotors are meant for a 320i xDrive without OEM M Sport brakes? Is it 34206797598 or 34206797600?

I've contacted numerous dealerships (both German and American) and they all say I need the 34206797600, per VIN. However, a few retailers claim I want the 34206797598 because my car came with the base brakes. Then there are others that say I need the 34206797600 due to the xDrive's larger hubs.

Any help is appreciated.
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      05-17-2019, 10:28 PM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by /Angelo/ View Post
My apologies if my question has been answered, but which M Performance rear rotors are meant for a 320i xDrive without OEM M Sport brakes? Is it 34206797598 or 34206797600?

I've contacted numerous dealerships (both German and American) and they all say I need the 34206797600, per VIN. However, a few retailers claim I want the 34206797598 because my car came with the base brakes. Then there are others that say I need the 34206797600 due to the xDrive's larger hubs.

Any help is appreciated.
What is the build date of the car? There is a cut off where all cars have large hubs. Or, pull your rotor and take a pic I can tell you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Waltabeast View Post
Which brake fluid did you guys use? Never had to personally purchase brake fluid, yet alone for a BMW.
I am using Motul 660
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      05-18-2019, 08:18 AM   #225
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What is the build date of the car? There is a cut off where all cars have large hubs. Or, pull your rotor and take a pic I can tell you.
Build date is May 2018. Thank you.
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      05-22-2019, 09:42 AM   #226
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Update:

Kit came in yesterday will be getting install this Saturday
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      05-22-2019, 03:58 PM   #227
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Looking to get this done myself. Just priced the kit with Sun Motor Cars.

list is 2460.00 sale price would be 1740.00
rear rotors 34206797600- list 266.00 ea , sale 175.00 ea (Im an xdrive)

Told me 834.00 in labor + tax.

Gonna have to start saving my pennys!
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      02-01-2020, 05:40 PM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveindabmer View Post
Looking to get this done myself. Just priced the kit with Sun Motor Cars.

list is 2460.00 sale price would be 1740.00
rear rotors 34206797600- list 266.00 ea , sale 175.00 ea (Im an xdrive)

Told me 834.00 in labor + tax.

Gonna have to start saving my pennys!
1000 in labor? christ
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      02-06-2020, 11:12 AM   #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F36GC_NYC View Post
1000 in labor? christ
Compared to what dealers charge for an ordinary rotor/pad change I don't think that $834 is outlandish. I wouldn't pay it, and didn't, but considering what the labor is its not horrible knowing they'll have to bleed, replace calipers, rotors, pads mount the new calipers, maybe muck with dust shields, and code the car.
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      02-06-2020, 01:37 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by /Angelo/ View Post
My apologies if my question has been answered, but which M Performance rear rotors are meant for a 320i xDrive without OEM M Sport brakes? Is it 34206797598 or 34206797600?

I've contacted numerous dealerships (both German and American) and they all say I need the 34206797600, per VIN. However, a few retailers claim I want the 34206797598 because my car came with the base brakes. Then there are others that say I need the 34206797600 due to the xDrive's larger hubs.

Any help is appreciated.
What is the build date of the car? There is a cut off where all cars have large hubs. Or, pull your rotor and take a pic I can tell you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Waltabeast View Post
Which brake fluid did you guys use? Never had to personally purchase brake fluid, yet alone for a BMW.
I am using Motul 660
See the attached photo. This is my method of figuring out whether a car came from the factory with the smaller 160mm diameter rear emergency brake that fits inside the smaller rotor hat, or whether the car came with the larger 185mm emergency brakes that only fit under the larger rotor hat.
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      02-06-2020, 01:45 PM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by F36GC_NYC View Post
1000 in labor? christ
Compared to what dealers charge for an ordinary rotor/pad change I don't think that $834 is outlandish. I wouldn't pay it, and didn't, but considering what the labor is its not horrible knowing they'll have to bleed, replace calipers, rotors, pads mount the new calipers, maybe muck with dust shields, and code the car.
To add another reference point, I had a complete swap of all calipers, rotors, pads, pins, clips, and stainless steel brake lines. Brake fluid drained, replaced and system bled. Car didn't need coding since I was swapping Brembos and not upgrading all the way up from lowest F3x Brakes.

My independent BMW mechanic who used to work at a dealership and is factory certified charged me $100/corner so $400 in total for the labor. Find local Indy mechanics on BimmerShops website.
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      02-06-2020, 07:47 PM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
See the attached photo. This is my method of figuring out whether a car came from the factory with the smaller 160mm diameter rear emergency brake that fits inside the smaller rotor hat, or whether the car came with the larger 185mm emergency brakes that only fit under the larger rotor hat.
I forget what site it is, but there is a production date where all F30s use the large rotor hub. I want to say its like 7- or 9-2014. So even 320i or 328i RWD or xDrive post that build date have the same large dust shields and rotors.

Yep - from 07/2014 all F30 have the larger rear parking brake hub size no matter if its 318, 320, 328, 330, 335, etc.
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      02-07-2020, 01:14 AM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
See the attached photo. This is my method of figuring out whether a car came from the factory with the smaller 160mm diameter rear emergency brake that fits inside the smaller rotor hat, or whether the car came with the larger 185mm emergency brakes that only fit under the larger rotor hat.
I forget what site it is, but there is a production date where all F30s use the large rotor hub. I want to say its like 7- or 9-2014. So even 320i or 328i RWD or xDrive post that build date have the same large dust shields and rotors.

Yep - from 07/2014 all F30 have the larger rear parking brake hub size no matter if its 318, 320, 328, 330, 335, etc.
Yes I believe that you are correct. I've only heard of the small 160mm emergency brakes on earlier models.
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      02-07-2020, 08:23 PM   #234
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I got the yellow kit a few weeks ago. To be honest I'm not too thrilled on the color, there's a bit of a weird green in it. It's like that Austin yellow the f80 comes in.

I'm about ready to install them. I decided to go with ebc redstuff pads over the ones that came in the kit. If anyone wants a new set of the pads, for sale, msg me. I don't think I need these dust shields either.

I also got the stoptech lines. I'm just going to stick with the pentosyn dot 4 lv. Do I really need the computer to bleed, can't I just tap the calipers and the abs pump thing with a rubber mallet? I feel like that's in the same category as using a torque wrench for everything.

There were a few posts about the rear caliper bolts being difficult to get at. Any issues back there, I would think an impact can fit?
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      02-09-2020, 10:41 AM   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
I got the yellow kit a few weeks ago. To be honest I'm not too thrilled on the color, there's a bit of a weird green in it. It's like that Austin yellow the f80 comes in.

I'm about ready to install them. I decided to go with ebc redstuff pads over the ones that came in the kit. If anyone wants a new set of the pads, for sale, msg me. I don't think I need these dust shields either.

I also got the stoptech lines. I'm just going to stick with the pentosyn dot 4 lv. Do I really need the computer to bleed, can't I just tap the calipers and the abs pump thing with a rubber mallet? I feel like that's in the same category as using a torque wrench for everything.

There were a few posts about the rear caliper bolts being difficult to get at. Any issues back there, I would think an impact can fit?
My understanding is that if you use a pressure bleeder like in the attached photo, and you don't let the fluid level go down, then you won't have bubbles get into the ABS system. That's what causes the need to have an analyzer to make the system vibrate itself to release those bubbles. Process for doing that is in the Bentley manual and probably in newtis website.

Brakes and tires directly effect safety for me, my family and everyone on the road around me. I never ever take shortcuts or skimp on brakes or tires. It's just not worth the risk.

Hope this helps!
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      02-09-2020, 08:18 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
I got the yellow kit a few weeks ago. To be honest I'm not too thrilled on the color, there's a bit of a weird green in it. It's like that Austin yellow the f80 comes in.

I'm about ready to install them. I decided to go with ebc redstuff pads over the ones that came in the kit. If anyone wants a new set of the pads, for sale, msg me. I don't think I need these dust shields either.

I also got the stoptech lines. I'm just going to stick with the pentosyn dot 4 lv. Do I really need the computer to bleed, can't I just tap the calipers and the abs pump thing with a rubber mallet? I feel like that's in the same category as using a torque wrench for everything.

There were a few posts about the rear caliper bolts being difficult to get at. Any issues back there, I would think an impact can fit?
Yeah I almost went yellow - its like Phoenix Yellow. Its like baby barf. I decided on orange.

And yes - I used a pressure bleeder w/o issue at all. I use these:



Clamp off the lines or act quick and no risk of air getting up into the modules. That's when you need the computer assist bleed.
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      02-16-2020, 04:05 PM   #237
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Well this wasn't too bad at all, much easier than the coilover install. It just takes time.

The stock brakes were nearing the end of their useful life. These are brand _new brakes so just that on its own is very nice to begin with. The pedal is a tad off at the top, I will bleed again next weekend, possibly this time involving ista. The feel and stopping power is much better. The redstuff pads so far are dead silent and have a good bite (once I get through the bit of pedal sponge). They're way too much for the snow tires. The rotors look great, the gold color isn't bad, but there's salt all over everything .. i'll look in the spring. I should consider 19s.

I built the new calipers/pads/lines on the bench. Siphoned the old fluid. Drove out the old pads and pushed the pistons in. Reinserted old pads so the calipers don't blow apart. Loosened all the bolts just left one caliper bolt in loose. Now installed pedal depressor. Broke the line open, no drip. Remove caliper and line, swap disc and clean hub, install caliper and line. A 16mm 12 point socket helps for the rear caliper bolts. There is not much room to swing the breaker bar, one tooth of the 12pt is about it.

Once everything is tight, pressure check, add fluid and pressure bleed. I did 3 passes around the car and I had the rubber mallet tapping the calipers and abs thing. Bleed clutch. The key to bleeding the clutch is to go under sideways, legs under right side. Very visible that way. And the 11mm stubby reversible ratcheting wrench.

Use esys to add spbr to ho-wort folder and write vo to vcm, recode DSC module. Test drive then bed in, I did about 8 hard 60-20 almost stops with a little cooling time.
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