[zeyad.habeeb]

Originally Posted by tsukasa36

Hi

I bought my first BMW (CPO F30 328i xdrive) about 6 months ago and have been enjoying every part of it. However, there is one annoying issue that I have noticed and wanted to see if anybody else has experienced it.

So from time to time and I can't seem to figure out if there is a pattern, but when I turn off the ignition and pull the handle to unlock it, the lock will not unlock. I am able to pull the handle and the lock knob comes up, but it goes back down like it's loaded by spring. It will actually not unlock.

This happens on both Left and Right hand side front doors. I can simply press the center unlock button and I can get out fine, but it's just been bothering me.

Has anybody else experienced this? Am I doing something wrong? I'll take it to the dealership soon for oil change but wanted to hear if anybody else has experienced this. Thank you!

UPDATE:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAttxl7pmow

Here is the link to the video I just took this weekend, just to clarify the issue. Thanks!

Happened with me a month ago.

It's not happening all the time.

I recorded a video when this issue was happening and took it to the dealer.

They changed the lock machine I forgot what's called.

But they would not change it without the video.

[ashkanvafaee2]

I've read through this entire thread as I too have started experiencing this issue on my '16 f30 (pulling handle intermittently doesn't work but button unlock works).

I'd like some clarity on the lock actuator. Logically speaking, this actuator should unlock the door using 2 different mechanisms: mechanically (via door pull) and electronically (via button press (either on the center console or key)).

We seem to be experiencing failure of only the mechanical part right? (since electronically, the actuator still works). So what exactly could be the root cause of the mechanical issue?

[M Smurf]

Originally Posted by ashkanvafaee2

I've read through this entire thread as I too have started experiencing this issue on my '16 f30 (pulling handle intermittently doesn't work but button unlock works).

I'd like some clarity on the lock actuator. Logically speaking, this actuator should unlock the door using 2 different mechanisms: mechanically (via door pull) and electronically (via button press (either on the center console or key)).

We seem to be experiencing failure of only the mechanical part right? (since electronically, the actuator still works). So what exactly could be the root cause of the mechanical issue?

same issue here and I'v been convinced that the actuator needs replacing. In my case, I changed the lock door settings in Idrive, problem solved

[ashkanvafaee2]

Originally Posted by M Smurf

same issue here and I'v been convinced that the actuator needs replacing. In my case, I changed the lock door settings in Idrive, problem solved

Gotchya, I'm assuming you set the setting to not lock the doors upon driving? I don't like this solution because in the unlock position, the lock things jiggle around and make noise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHEaEeP08BI

I'm thinking of coding my car to automatically unlock doors upon engine shutoff. I'm still confused about if/what part of of the actuator/cable is the problem. I haven't actually opened my door panel to check anything yet tho

[M Smurf]

Originally Posted by ashkanvafaee2

Gotchya, I'm assuming you set the setting to not lock the doors upon driving? I don't like this solution because in the unlock position, the lock things jiggle around and make noise:

I'm thinking of coding my car to automatically unlock doors upon engine shutoff. I'm still confused about if/what part of of the actuator/cable is the problem. I haven't actually opened my door panel to check anything yet tho

yes. Confused as well but a DIY is straightforward apparently and parts are inexpensive.

[Bok Choy]

I just purchased a 2012 335i and of course two weeks later I’m having trouble opening the door by pulling the inside lever twice. What is the typical cost to have the actuator replaced at a BMW dealership? Should I just code it to have the doors unlock when I shut the engine off? But is that just a short term fix? Also where do I get it coded? Sorry for so many questions!

[Fliplegend]

Originally Posted by Bok Choy

Should I just code it to have the doors unlock when I shut the engine off?

This was definitely one of the best options I coded.


I had my driver door actuator replaced under warranty which required video proof for them to acknowledge. I'm out of warranty and the passenger side door is showing signs.

[joesid]

Originally Posted by Bok Choy

I just purchased a 2012 335i and of course two weeks later I’m having trouble opening the door by pulling the inside lever twice. What is the typical cost to have the actuator replaced at a BMW dealership? Should I just code it to have the doors unlock when I shut the engine off? But is that just a short term fix? Also where do I get it coded? Sorry for so many questions!

I helped a friend of mine replace his last week on a 2013 328i after getting a quote from the dealer for $1500! It wasn't too bad after watching a few videos on YouTube.

I also recommend changing the coding to unlock the doors when the engine is turned off (in addition to turning off iDrive when the door is opened). I've never been able to get used to the double pull.

[ashkanvafaee2]

Originally Posted by Bok Choy

I just purchased a 2012 335i and of course two weeks later I’m having trouble opening the door by pulling the inside lever twice. What is the typical cost to have the actuator replaced at a BMW dealership? Should I just code it to have the doors unlock when I shut the engine off? But is that just a short term fix? Also where do I get it coded? Sorry for so many questions!

The way I thought about it was, even if you fix one of the actuators, won't all of the other actuators on the other doors eventually fail too? This will get costly even if you DIY.

So I decided to code it so that all doors unlock upon engine shutoff. Watch this tutorial for coding: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYymCCNofVk&t

Coding will cost you ~60$ (~30$ for obd connector & ~30$ for phone app) saving you from having to potentially pay ~100$ x 4(actuators). Coding all doors to unlock also has the second benefit that if you keep stuff in your back seat, as soon as you get out of the car, you don't have to manually unlock the rear doors to get to your stuff.

From my understanding, the electronic component of the actuators work fine, it's just something with the mechanical component that's failing for us so I'm hoping that coding is actually a long-term solution.

One corner case with coding is, what if you have the engine running, but you (or a passenger) wants to exit your car. I've tried testing opening the door without first shutting off the engine and it has always opened correctly with the double pull. Has anybody else tested this? Basically, open your door before turning off the engine and see if you still have the problem.