[RSnic]

alexgarcia ,

Glad to be of assistance. I have changed out regular incandescent bulbs for LEDs in my car's back up, front and rear turn signals. All the bulbs were error free (they had built in resistors), BUT I still had to do some coding.

Think there are two separate aspects that we have entwined in this discussions:
• First, if LED bulb does not have resistor (built in or hooked in), the bulb will flicker -- think that has to do with normal variations in current (which for incandescent bulb would merely be a variation in intensity).
• Second, BMWs have two built-in diagnostics to check whether the bulb is working: cold (at start up); and warm (periodically, think it is every 5 minutes). If the car gets nothing back, then there is an error code or something to indicate a bad bulb.
For the first aspect, getting error-free bulbs will be the cure; while coding is the only way to overcome the second, which you can operate the car safely with no problems (I know I did for a couple of weeks).

Every bulb you change will need three code changes:

• Colkd check (KALTUEBERWACHNUNG)
• Warm Check (WARMUEBERWACHNUNG)
• Tell system bulb is an LED (XX_IS_LED)

[alexgarcia]

RSnic

Again I appreciate your time to provide with a really detailed explanation of all points in our discussions.

If I am allowed a summary see and check I got it all right:

Flickering is covered by means of resistors (built in or hooked in)...I still need to find out if mine are built in (i hope since the parts I bought are retrofitted, --retrofit is a new word to me and I hope I am understanding it right... an OEM part intended for an upgrade) since I have a complete housing and the leds (if not built in then I am not getting the proper understanding of the retrofit concept)....anyways I wanted the full housing replacement not only the leds.

Finally having resolved the variant of current still need to deal with the car checks (3 in total) ...and here comes my real challege: getting required software and hardware to do the coding and secondly getting the actual codes for this particular job...

I think I will still be asking questions here and there for a while...then I can move on to the screen upgrade feeling much safer....

Final question...Is it safe if I install these fog leds now ? or shall I waint until I have all set in place...

Thanks,

Originally Posted by RSnic

alexgarcia ,

Glad to be of assistance. I have changed out regular incandescent bulbs for LEDs in my car's back up, front and rear turn signals. All the bulbs were error free (they had built in resistors), BUT I still had to do some coding.

Think there are two separate aspects that we have entwined in this discussions:
• First, if LED bulb does not have resistor (built in or hooked in), the bulb will flicker -- think that has to do with normal variations in current (which for incandescent bulb would merely be a variation in intensity).
• Second, BMWs have two built-in diagnostics to check whether the bulb is working: cold (at start up); and warm (periodically, think it is every 5 minutes). If the car gets nothing back, then there is an error code or something to indicate a bad bulb.
For the first aspect, getting error-free bulbs will be the cure; while coding is the only way to overcome the second, which you can operate the car safely with no problems (I know I did for a couple of weeks).

Every bulb you change will need three code changes:

• Colkd check (KALTUEBERWACHNUNG)
• Warm Check (WARMUEBERWACHNUNG)
• Tell system bulb is an LED (XX_IS_LED)

[etinifni]

I still think the light output from this mod even with correct coding is worse than halogens.

[Gabreigns]

Originally Posted by etinifni

I still think the light output from this mod even with correct coding is worse than halogens.

I couldn?t agree more. The output from that oem housing led is just terrible. The only thing good about them is that they somewhat match the headlights and halos.
Sometimes think if I should just go back to stock.

[RSnic]

Originally Posted by alexgarcia

RSnic

Again I appreciate your time to provide with a really detailed explanation of all points in our discussions.

If I am allowed a summary see and check I got it all right:

Flickering is covered by means of resistors (built in or hooked in)...I still need to find out if mine are built in (i hope since the parts I bought are retrofitted, --retrofit is a new word to me and I hope I am understanding it right... an OEM part intended for an upgrade) since I have a complete housing and the leds (if not built in then I am not getting the proper understanding of the retrofit concept)....anyways I wanted the full housing replacement not only the leds.

Finally having resolved the variant of current still need to deal with the car checks (3 in total) ...and here comes my real challege: getting required software and hardware to do the coding and secondly getting the actual codes for this particular job...

I think I will still be asking questions here and there for a while...then I can move on to the screen upgrade feeling much safer....

Final question...Is it safe if I install these fog leds now ? or shall I waint until I have all set in place...

Thanks,

alexgarcia ,

You have almost correct.

If you are just changing bulbs, then that is what you are doing -- period. If, however, you are changing the reflective housing, then you are doing a retrofit.

As others have pointed out, just changing either Foglights or Headlights from incandescent to LEDs is not really all that good because the original housing is designed to reflect & focus the incandescent bulb.

I personally agree with them. That is why, though LED bulbs are terrific, I have only changed out turn signals and back up lights -- BUT, as the saying goes to each their own!

As to whether installing LEDs and later doing the coding is safe, please see my earlier post as to what I did with my rear turn signals. I installed yellow LEDs with built in resistors and didn't code them for several days -- they flickered, due to both types of checks (at start up, cold, and periodically, warm check)

Feel free to continue to ask questions -- that what I like about this forum; I have learned a great deal from people asking and others answering!

Again, hope that helps!

[alexgarcia]

Originally Posted by RSnic

alexgarcia ,

You have almost correct.

If you are just changing bulbs, then that is what you are doing -- period. If, however, you are changing the reflective housing, then you are doing a retrofit.

As others have pointed out, just changing either Foglights or Headlights from incandescent to LEDs is not really all that good because the original housing is designed to reflect & focus the incandescent bulb.

I personally agree with them. That is why, though LED bulbs are terrific, I have only changed out turn signals and back up lights -- BUT, as the saying goes to each their own!

As to whether installing LEDs and later doing the coding is safe, please see my earlier post as to what I did with my rear turn signals. I installed yellow LEDs with built in resistors and didn't code them for several days -- they flickered, due to both types of checks (at start up, cold, and periodically, warm check)

Feel free to continue to ask questions -- that what I like about this forum; I have learned a great deal from people asking and others answering!

Again, hope that helps!

Hi RSnic

Back with some more questions. I installed my fog led lights after a while and they flickered so I bought some resistors ment for my leds JDM Alstar. Then they continued flickering and I was advised to install 2 at each side. They continue to flicker. Now I have finally received my ENET cable and even I have no coding experience I want to rush to see if that will correct the flickering.

I am a bit lost here.

Thanks

[Billfitz]

Go back and read Post # 81, if you want a more detailed explanation of why coding is a necessity read this:
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1377259

[alexgarcia]

Billfitz I will do the coding. I guess it is most people´s fear mine too. But will overcome that and thanks I now understand what the issue around flickering is.

[Billfitz]

I put off seriously considering LED for a year because of coding. I kept reading review after review of LED bulbs waiting for someone to say 'this really is plug and play', and it never happened. Then I watched the video of how to code and saw it wasn't hard at all, so not only did I code my lights but also a number of other items. It's worth learning just to get rid of the stupid disclaimer on the screen every time you start the car.

just changing either Foglights or Headlights from incandescent to LEDs is not really all that good because the original housing is designed to reflect & focus the incandescent bulb.

The bulbs I used place the LEDs in the same place relative to the reflector that a halogen filament is. What you need to avoid is any that have a built in lens, or LEDs that aim forward. A good bulb will have no more than 8 LED elements, four per side.

[bobbba]

Just tried this on an early 2014 f31 320d m sport but couldn’t get the new led foglight to fit in. Did any of you manage this on a similar car?

[Billfitz]

New light? Or new bulb?

[bobbba]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

New light? Or new bulb?

New full original BMW LCI LED OEM light

[SertacT]

Very nice topic includes every detail for lci front fog retrofit.

But, I have another question Does anybody know whether the "pre-lci fog lights" fit to "lci front bumper (non-m sport)"?

I'm planning to do lci bumper retrofit (non-m sport) for my pre-lci F30 and wondering if I can use my halogen fog lights for the "lci bumper (non-m sport)". (I dont care the light color of the fogs because never use them except low sight distance in adverse weather)

[Astone22]

Originally Posted by Dante

Thanks for the DIY!

I did that mod in February.
This also works with the wheel mounted. Just go full lock to the left when doing the driver side (other side vice versa).
With the wheel in place, you can tug the fender liner behind the wheel, just like you did with the brake disc.

When putting the new LED fog in place, I found it useful to pull up on the mount. It might not slip into place easily (it didn't with my M-Sport bumper, there was a gap), but when you pull up from the inside, the fog will find its way.

This looks so much better than the yellow fogs. Plus, the cornering lights still work with the LED, which is a bonus.
Just code everything to 100%, otherwise they will start to flicker after a few seconds!

Can someone post what I need coded to 100% to stop flickering? Where is this at in bimmercode??

[Billfitz]

Ask Bimmercode. I'd tell you the E-Sys CAFD entries, but you don't have E-Sys.

[Astone22]

Can anyone confirm this is the correct coding I need using bimmercode? I am just worried I will mess something up in expert mode. But I don't want my lci leds fogs to flicker when on. Thanks for the input

FEM_BODY

3061 NSW_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG -> nicht_aktiv : LED Foglights front right
3061 NSW_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG -> nicht_aktiv : LED Foglights front right
3061 NSW_R_IS_LED -> aktiv : LED Foglights front right
3062 MAPPING_ABBIEGEL_R_PWM_LEVEL_1 -> 100% : LED Foglights front right
3061 NSW_R_UE_SPG_SCHUTZ -> dimmed : LED Foglights front right
3063 MAPPING_NEBELSCHW_R_PWM_LEVEL_1 -> 100% : LED Foglights front right

3061 NSW_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG -> nicht_aktiv : LED Foglights front left
3061 NSW_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG -> nicht_aktiv : LED Foglights front left
3061 NSW_L_IS_LED -> aktiv : LED Foglights front left
3061 NSW_L_UE_SPG_SCHUTZ -> dimmed : LED Foglights front left
3063 MAPPING_NEBELSCHW_L_PWM_LEVEL_1 -> 100% : LED Foglights front left
3062 MAPPING_ABBIEGEL_L_PWM_LEVEL_1 -> 100% : LED Foglights front left



3062 MAPPING_abbiegel_L_output -> nsw_l : Foglight when turning
3062 Mapping_abbiegel_R_output -> nsw_r : Foglight when turning
3073 KL_ENABLE_RE -> KL_Ein : Foglight when turning
3066 KL_ENABLE_LI -> KL_Ein : Foglight when turning
3073 C_CLC_ENA -> enable : Foglight when turning
3073 C_BLC_ENA -> enable : Foglight when turning



3063 Mapping Nevelschw L Part of WL soft-on nicht_aktiv : Foglight left as welcome
3063 Mapping Nevelschw R Part of WL soft-on nicht_aktiv : Foglight right as welcome

[cjn]

Originally Posted by Astone22

Can anyone confirm this is the correct coding I need using bimmercode? I am just worried I will mess something up in expert mode. But I don't want my lci leds fogs to flicker when on. Thanks for the input

FEM_BODY

3061 NSW_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG -> nicht_aktiv : LED Foglights front right
3061 NSW_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG -> nicht_aktiv : LED Foglights front right
3061 NSW_R_IS_LED -> aktiv : LED Foglights front right
3062 MAPPING_ABBIEGEL_R_PWM_LEVEL_1 -> 100% : LED Foglights front right
3061 NSW_R_UE_SPG_SCHUTZ -> dimmed : LED Foglights front right
3063 MAPPING_NEBELSCHW_R_PWM_LEVEL_1 -> 100% : LED Foglights front right

3061 NSW_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG -> nicht_aktiv : LED Foglights front left
3061 NSW_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG -> nicht_aktiv : LED Foglights front left
3061 NSW_L_IS_LED -> aktiv : LED Foglights front left
3061 NSW_L_UE_SPG_SCHUTZ -> dimmed : LED Foglights front left
3063 MAPPING_NEBELSCHW_L_PWM_LEVEL_1 -> 100% : LED Foglights front left
3062 MAPPING_ABBIEGEL_L_PWM_LEVEL_1 -> 100% : LED Foglights front left

3062 MAPPING_abbiegel_L_output -> nsw_l : Foglight when turning
3062 Mapping_abbiegel_R_output -> nsw_r : Foglight when turning
3073 KL_ENABLE_RE -> KL_Ein : Foglight when turning
3066 KL_ENABLE_LI -> KL_Ein : Foglight when turning
3073 C_CLC_ENA -> enable : Foglight when turning
3073 C_BLC_ENA -> enable : Foglight when turning

3063 Mapping Nevelschw L Part of WL soft-on nicht_aktiv : Foglight left as welcome
3063 Mapping Nevelschw R Part of WL soft-on nicht_aktiv : Foglight right as welcome

That all looks good, except for one setting. If you have basic headlights, with a height adjustment wheel on the switch panel, you may find as I did that enabling C_BLC_ENA disables the height adjuster. I think this item is only relevant for active headlight installations. I have found that leaving it disabled still allowed the turning function to work.

Just one other point about an error that just gets propagated through all these posts: both the KL_ENABLE items are 3066, NOT 3073.

[Astone22]

Originally Posted by cjn

That all looks good, except for one setting. If you have basic headlights, with a height adjustment wheel on the switch panel, you may find as I did that enabling C_BLC_ENA disables the height adjuster. I think this item is only relevant for active headlight installations. I have found that leaving it disabled still allowed the turning function to work.

Just one other point about an error that just gets propagated through all these posts: both the KL_ENABLE items are 3066, NOT 3073.

I have the xenon headlights right now so does this pertain to me?

[cjn]

Originally Posted by Astone22

I have the xenon headlights right now so does this pertain to me?

Does your light switch panel have two wheels on the right: instrument brightness and headlamp height adjuster. If no headlamp control then my warning shouldn't apply. If the control is there, you won't break anything by trying with C_BLC_ENA both disabled and enabled.

[Astone22]

Originally Posted by cjn

Does your light switch panel have two wheels on the right: instrument brightness and headlamp height adjuster. If no headlamp control then my warning shouldn't apply. If the control is there, you won't break anything by trying with C_BLC_ENA both disabled and enabled.

I have no adjustment wheel on the inside of my wheel. What is the difference between using these coding lines and just using regular mode in bimmercode and just turning off cold/warm check and changing setting to led?

[cjn]

Originally Posted by Astone22

I have no adjustment wheel on the inside of my wheel. What is the difference between using these coding lines and just using regular mode in bimmercode and just turning off cold/warm check and changing setting to led?

No idea. I only ever use Bimmercode in Expert Mode, as a quick alternative to setting up ESys. So I just set the same parameters as I would in ESys. It's always possible that Bimmercode in simple mode has its own ideas, and I like to be in control! I can't see any reason why you shouldn't do it the 'hard' way; if that makes you nervous then why would the simple route be any less of a concern?

EDIT: just re-read your first sentence, which makes no sense. Are we both looking at the same item: the main light control panel on the right of the dashboard (for RHD car) or the left (for LHD car)?

[Astone22]

Originally Posted by cjn

No idea. I only ever use Bimmercode in Expert Mode, as a quick alternative to setting up ESys. So I just set the same parameters as I would in ESys. It's always possible that Bimmercode in simple mode has its own ideas, and I like to be in control! I can't see any reason why you shouldn't do it the 'hard' way; if that makes you nervous then why would the simple route be any less of a concern?

EDIT: just re-read your first sentence, which makes no sense. Are we both looking at the same item: the main light control panel on the right of the dashboard (for RHD car) or the left (for LHD car)?

Are you talking about the wheel that changes how bright the dash is lite up? I only have one adjustment and then my headlight switch. So what exactly do I need to adjust for the coding I posted? Thank you for your help!