[okla_m2c]

Omg thanks for the detailed steps. That is really helpful.

I'll have to post some pics tomorrow, kind of hard to explain how the coupler is placed. But from what you've said, as long as the clamp is over the pipe, I think I'm set then. How tight do the clamps need to be?

I was trying the method of tightening down the lower clamp for the lower portion of the CP first, fitting everything, then installing the upper portion. Unfortunately, my old man came home and started to tell me I'm doing everything wrong. We proceeded to install the CP the hardest way possible due to his stubbornness.. getting the fitment in first, then installing the coupler while it was in the car. What a waste of 2 additional hours..

I think I'm going to try and pull out the lower portion of the CP from the FMIC tomorrow, oil the o-ring and force it back on. Might need a second hand from above to push the pipe down so it'll click into place w/ the c-clip.

[okla_m2c]

Here's some pics of the CP install, and how the coupler isn't fully seated to the lip of where the CP widens.

Last pic is how the c clip is not fully flush up against the pipe. I'm assuming the CP needs to go in further?

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by dookayy

Here's some pics of the CP install, and how the coupler isn't fully seated to the lip of where the CP widens.

Last pic is how the c clip is not fully flush up against the pipe. I'm assuming the CP needs to go in further?

For the first picture, someone else with ER will need to chime in as i don't know how much that leaves for the silicone and clamp to grab on the top half; the VRSF CP design is different. Based on the photos online, it looks like you probably have enough to get the silicone and clamp over the bead, thats the key thing.

The clip does not appear to be in all the way. It looks like the CP is not far enough on the IC to allow the clip to actually go into the groove, so right now, the clip isnt actually doing anything. It needs to be snapped into that groove. When i used a much larger Oring on my CP it made it much more difficult to install, so i had to pry from about where your rust spot is to the "lip" where the lower flange starts on the CP to give enough downward force to get it far enough on, while reaching up with your other hand and pulling down on the pipe at the same time.

[okla_m2c]

Alright, so I tried everything I could to get the lower CP fitted to the FMIC. No luck on my end. I eventually got frustrated that I went out and bought a silicone coupler at the auto parts store and clamped it on with two c clamps. The silicon coupler was cut so that it would fit over the connection, but it's mostly there to hold the piece in place rather than preventing boost leaks. I know some people will probably be up in arms about this macgyvering.. but it works. Did a few pulls and no error codes or leaks from what I can tell. I'll leave it for now until I upgrade my FMIC.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by dookayy

Alright, so I tried everything I could to get the lower CP fitted to the FMIC. No luck on my end. I eventually got frustrated that I went out and bought a silicone coupler at the auto parts store and clamped it on with two c clamps. The silicon coupler was cut so that it would fit over the connection, but it's mostly there to hold the piece in place rather than preventing boost leaks. I know some people will probably be up in arms about this macgyvering.. but it works. Did a few pulls and no error codes or leaks from what I can tell. I'll leave it for now until I upgrade my FMIC.

Did you test fit the lower half of the CP onto the IC while both were removed from the car? Its much easier to get an idea of fitment and how much force its going to take to install the different pieces if you test fit them all separately while out of the car. I really wish i did this my very first time installing mine, because it would have been obvious it was out of spec and going to leak horribly. Sounds like yours might be the opposite - a little too small/tight (on the CP side).

I would upgrade the IC immediately anyways, so just get on that

[XutvJet]

What I've found with my FTP charge pipe mounted to my Wagner EVO I Comp intercooler is that I:

1) Had to use the OEM o-ring on the charge pipe-IC connection because the FTP o-ring was fractionally too small and caused a very slight leak (didn't have an issue with the stock IC).

2) In order to get the charge pipe C-clip to snap fully onto the IC connection/lip, I actually had to pull the charge pipe back very slightly to get it to snap into place.


The BMW c-clip and o-ring design is pretty ingenious and makes install easy, but I have my doubts that even under stock boost, the o-rings are perfectly air tight. With a metal charge pipe, I find that even more hard to believe given the rigidity of the pipe inlet connections compared to plastic. BMW uses plastic on the OEM charge pipe for thermal stability and because it can expand and fit tighter at the throttle body and IC connections. I also find it interesting that the S55 doesn't use c-clips anywhere on its charge pipes. They're connected with bolts at the turbo and clamps at the IC/heat exchanger. If the c-clip design was so ideal, why isn't it used on the S55 charge pipe to IC/heat exchanger connection? I think it's because the S55 is pushing 18 to 20 psi stock compared to the N55's which runs 8 to 14 psi (14 psi overboost on the M2) depending on model/year/EWG/PWG. IMO, doing a silicone hose connection with clamps at the charge pipe and IC connection on the N55 is the way to go if you want to alleviate the potential for a leak.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

What I've found with my FTP charge pipe mounted to my Wagner EVO I Comp intercooler is that I:

1) Had to use the OEM o-ring on the charge pipe-IC connection because the FTP o-ring was fractionally too small and caused a very slight leak (didn't have an issue with the stock IC).

2) In order to get the charge pipe C-clip to snap fully onto the IC connection/lip, I actually had to pull the charge pipe back very slightly to get it to snap into place.


The BMW c-clip and o-ring design is pretty ingenious and makes install easy, but I have my doubts that even under stock boost, the o-rings are perfectly air tight. With a metal charge pipe, I find that even more hard to believe given the rigidity of the pipe inlet connections compared to plastic. BMW uses plastic on the OEM charge pipe for thermal stability and because it can expand and fit tighter at the throttle body and IC connections. I also find it interesting that the S55 doesn't use c-clips anywhere on its charge pipes. They're connected with bolts at the turbo and clamps at the IC/heat exchanger. If the c-clip design was so ideal, why isn't it used on the S55 charge pipe to IC/heat exchanger connection? I think it's because the S55 is pushing 18 to 20 psi stock compared to the N55's which runs 8 to 14 psi (14 psi overboost on the M2) depending on model/year/EWG/PWG. IMO, doing a silicone hose connection with clamps at the charge pipe and IC connection on the N55 is the way to go if you want to alleviate the potential for a leak.

I tend to agree that the Cclip and Oring design, while clever, is much more prone to leak than good ol' silicone couplers (if done correctly). Especially in the aftermarket as you alluded to, and especially because this design is much more sensitive to tolerances and variations in manufacturing (case and point my CP-IC leak/issue documented in other threads). The main solution is to man handle larger diameter Orings at the connection points so that its absolutely air tight.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1659611

But the person above has the opposite problem, like his CP might be fractionally too small. Hopefully an aftermarket IC will be just right.

[B.M.W.]

While this is kinda an old thing, and I have been away from the BMW world for awhile I wanted to come and say there is an easier way to install these. I just looked this up while helping a friend with his.

We rolled the car in ramps, pulled the under tray, pulled the intake + airbox (his was BMS') removed the MAP sensor, unpluged it after (in case you drop it), unclipped the vacuum lines (automatic) then disconnected the factory charge/boost pipe from the throttle-body.

From underneath I used a small screw driver to push up on the factory C-clip and was able to lift it off the intercooler. From up top I was able to pull/lift it a bit. Then I pulled it through the space near where the factory push clip is and the tie rod.

I put the silicon piece on the lower portion and put both clams on it. I installed it by dropping it from above then going below using the same hole to reach my hand in and install it. Put the C-Clamp in easily too.

I added some oil to the new O-ring and put that in.

Next I put the upper piece in and pushed it into the silicon coupler and wiggled it onto the throttle body and clipped it in. I went back underneath and made sure everything was as tight as it could be then tightened the T-clamps with an extension on my ratchet.

Finally I installed the MAP sensor, reconnected it, vacuum lines clipped back, then put the airbox back & the intake. Finishing off with the engine cover & a test drive.

Seriously only took me maybe 25-35 minutes once he drove it on the ramps for me & that was in the dark outside using a Habor Freight light & some M12 Milwaukee electric ratchet for the underbody bolts & the T-Clamps.

[me06305]

Are there turbo inlet, Charge pipe and intercooler for activehybrid 3 n55 f30?

[me06305]

Can you suggest intercooler/Charge pipe/turbo inlet stage 2 tuning for n55 activehybrid 3 f30?