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      01-05-2021, 09:12 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by learntocode View Post
BMW charger costs upwards of $150, it is basically the same thing as the CTEK.
Yep, the BMW one looks pretty much identical to the top-of-the-line CTEK one. I got the BMW one for ~$100 on sale. They’re great.
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      01-05-2021, 01:10 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by F32Fleet View Post
only drive it 4-5x a year
Really... that's it...

I looked at the manufacture date of my car and it was made Dec 2014... so technically the original battery is 6 years old... supposed to be nice out tomorrow so I'll venture out to get a new battery... I drive it a minimum once every 2 weeks during the winter... depends on the weather... it came with summer tires so I don't like to go out when it's under 40degrees... roads have to be nice and dry too...
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      01-05-2021, 01:16 PM   #25
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Just keep in mind... when unlocking the DME you will need more than a trickle charger... hence why I bought the 15amp... this was before the MHD dongle though...
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      01-05-2021, 01:31 PM   #26
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      01-05-2021, 03:17 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by erickonphoenix View Post
Thank you for the article... one thing I like to throw out there for battery registration can be done thru MHD as long as it is the same spec battery...
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      01-05-2021, 05:50 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F32Fleet View Post
only drive it 4-5x a year
Really... that's it...

I looked at the manufacture date of my car and it was made Dec 2014... so technically the original battery is 6 years old... supposed to be nice out tomorrow so I'll venture out to get a new battery... I drive it a minimum once every 2 weeks during the winter... depends on the weather... it came with summer tires so I don't like to go out when it's under 40degrees... roads have to be nice and dry too...
Ya. Mostly used only for road tripping but I may sell it being that I'm under 60k miles which isn't so bad for a 9/2014 delivery.
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      03-09-2021, 01:56 PM   #29
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Haven't driven my car in almost 3 months... it was 66degrees today and dry streets... it started right up! .... but you could tell the battery was low... message came up after driving it for an hour to charge battery... going to go get the new battery next week or so... but still surprised it started right up considering I knew the battery wasn't in the best shape when I last drove it...
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      03-13-2021, 07:02 AM   #30
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My car was throwing up the same message, took it for a 30 mile drive and the warning was still there. Ended up buying a battery charger from Aldi, a 5a charger suitable for AGM, hooked it up and it showed that the battery voltage was at 11.9v, left it charging overnight and it reported the battery being at 12.4v and the car no longer complains.

My car is a 2015, so the battery is at least 6 years old, reason for the post was to state that the battery might not need to be replaced.
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      03-13-2021, 09:47 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by IAmATeaf View Post
My car was throwing up the same message, took it for a 30 mile drive and the warning was still there. Ended up buying a battery charger from Aldi, a 5a charger suitable for AGM, hooked it up and it showed that the battery voltage was at 11.9v, left it charging overnight and it reported the battery being at 12.4v and the car no longer complains.

My car is a 2015, so the battery is at least 6 years old, reason for the post was to state that the battery might not need to be replaced.
Thank you so much... Problem is I'm in the city and my car is parked in a communal garage... The outlet in the garage is at least 50ft of extension cord away from my car and don't think management would approve also... otherwise I'd do it... My battery is 6 years old also... it's in inevitable I'm going to need a new one sooner or later... $200 and 10 minutes and I won't have to worry about it anymore... Thanks again and your lucky you can do that..
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      03-16-2021, 12:16 PM   #32
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Since you're coming up on potentially needing a battery replacement, I would say take the time and stop buy an autoparts store that offers free alternator and battery testing to run a test on the electrical system under load. I recently just had power issues which turned out to be an alternator on its way out that overcharged other electrical components in the car. It was intermittent but it gave the same increased battery during discharge and after going through 3 batteries I had the alternator checked instead of listening to shops blame a faulty battery or other things I had plugged in. I'm not saying you will have the same issue but just recommending an extra step that could lead you to saving any extra time/money. Good luck!
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      03-24-2021, 01:47 AM   #33
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Took the car for a drive and low battery drive car message came up again after an hour of driving... So I figured I have this nice Schumacher 15amp rapid battery charger... might as well give it a go... so I ripped out the battery and left the car unlocked (in the city, no access to charge in car)... charger said 51% 11.9v .... 1-1/2 hours rapid charged to 100%... waited 5 minutes and checked... 66% 12.3v... 50 minute rapid charged... 5 minute wait... 72% 12.4v... 40 minute rapid charged... 5 minute wait... 73% 12.5v... another 15 minutes charging and threw the battery back in (didn't want to leave it out too long , heard bad vodoo stuff could happen with electrical)... glad I put Blue painters tape on the posts... much less to worry about... pain getting it back in... very tight area...bottom hold down bracket was major pain... but all in all went smoothly after climbing thru the arm-rest to open the trunk... lol... gonna take it for a drive tomorrow and check for codes etc...should work if I drive the car more for the summer anyways... read somewhere the alternator kicks-out 170-210amps depending on model ... that's crazy amps ... so we'll see...

Last edited by FastF30; 03-24-2021 at 01:57 AM..
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      03-24-2021, 02:02 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastF30 View Post
Took the car for a drive and low battery drive car message came up again after an hour of driving... So I figured I have this nice Schumacher 15amp rapid battery charger... might as well give it a go... so I ripped out the battery and left the car unlocked (in the city, no access to charge in car)... charger said 51% 11.9v .... 1-1/2 hours rapid charged to 100%... waited 5 minutes and checked... 66% 12.3v... 50 minute rapid charged... 5 minute wait... 72% 12.4v... 40 minute rapid charged... 5 minute wait... 73% 12.5v... another 15 minutes charging and threw the battery back in (didn't want to leave it out too long , heard bad vodoo stuff could happen with electrical)... glad I put Blue painters tape on the posts... much less to worry about... pain getting it back in... very tight area...bottom hold down bracket was major pain... but all in all went smoothly after climbing thru the arm-rest to open the trunk... lol... gonna take it for a drive tomorrow and check for codes etc...should work if I drive the car more for the summer anyways... read somewhere the alternator kicks-out 170-210amps depending on model ... that's crazy amps ... so we'll see...
Is this after getting a new battery or did you never get one? I would be a little concerned about the message showing up an hour AFTER driving. The car does have a high output alternator but there's also a lot of electrical load and it doesn't charge and full output all the time.
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      03-24-2021, 02:09 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
Is this after getting a new battery or did you never get one? I would be a little concerned about the message showing up an hour AFTER driving. The car does have a high output alternator but there's also a lot of electrical load and it doesn't charge and full output all the time.
Didn't get a new one yet... I figured I charge the original one and see what happens... figured if the car still was starting after all this ... battery might hold a charge.... for the summer anyways... I was kinda bored and just felt like screwing around with it... just read Europe is shutting down again... so I'm in no hurry... why drain a new battery if I don't have too if it does end up sitting around... who knows with all this crazy stuff going on...

Last edited by FastF30; 03-24-2021 at 02:18 AM..
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      03-24-2021, 11:06 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
Is this after getting a new battery or did you never get one? I would be a little concerned about the message showing up an hour AFTER driving. The car does have a high output alternator but there's also a lot of electrical load and it doesn't charge and full output all the time.
He is spot on about this...if it was an hour of driving and the message still came up, get a load test done on the alternator/batt asap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FastF30 View Post
Didn't get a new one yet... I figured I charge the original one and see what happens... figured if the car still was starting after all this ... battery might hold a charge.... for the summer anyways... I was kinda bored and just felt like screwing around with it... just read Europe is shutting down again... so I'm in no hurry... why drain a new battery if I don't have too if it does end up sitting around... who knows with all this crazy stuff going on...
If it came after an hour of driving vs lets say 2-3days in my case there is discharge happening, either something you have plugged in thats draining power or the alternator and IBS need a look over. If you had a device that can monitor live voltage readings while the car is on that would also help. Idle sleep woken up with the keyfob should be at 12.5-12.7V at the max on a healthy car. Then on ignition the voltage might drop to maybe 12.2-12.4V and start climbing back up to maybe 13.1-13.3V range. If the battery is low health, our alternators can communicate with the IBS to "demand/request" more current so it can on very rare occasions hover from the 14-15.1V range at the max but as you drive it will drop back down. The IBS tries to see the best way to manage the power of the car depending on how long it's on and what needs more electricity.

Alternatively if you do not have access to a load tester...
If you have a digital voltmeter do a reading at the battery in the trunk at the terminals, then the engine bay posts, then from the alternator. If all are reading the same voltage rating that is one good sign, next step is swap the leads from your multimeter to contact the black contact on the terminal on the side of the alternator and the red contact on the casing of the alternator both when the car is on or off.
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      03-24-2021, 02:50 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _das_bae_ View Post
Alternatively if you do not have access to a load tester...
If you have a digital voltmeter do a reading at the battery in the trunk at the terminals, then the engine bay posts, then from the alternator. If all are reading the same voltage rating that is one good sign, next step is swap the leads from your multimeter to contact the black contact on the terminal on the side of the alternator and the red contact on the casing of the alternator both when the car is on or off.
went to check on car... opened trunk and volt meter read 12.18v... started car and 15.0v in trunk... drove car 45 minutes ... shut car off and waited 1 minute.. 12.34v... got caught in some light rain while driving (figures after I just had it washed couple days before) (first time in 2 years car saw the rain) so I wiped it off.. about 10 minutes later and 12.22v ... I have an extended warranty but with deductible... guess I'll get that new battery and watch it...
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      03-24-2021, 05:55 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by _das_bae_ View Post
get a load test done on the alternator/batt asap.
I'll get this done too....
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      03-24-2021, 07:11 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastF30 View Post
went to check on car... opened trunk and volt meter read 12.18v... started car and 15.0v in trunk... drove car 45 minutes ... shut car off and waited 1 minute.. 12.34v... got caught in some light rain while driving (figures after I just had it washed couple days before) (first time in 2 years car saw the rain) so I wiped it off.. about 10 minutes later and 12.22v ... I have an extended warranty but with deductible... guess I'll get that new battery and watch it...
Yes this voltage reading is too low, the fact that you drove and got it to charge a little more tells me to check alternator. With a new battery you could end up burning that one out too, it might take a few more days to notice. Leave it on a tender overnight to keep the battery you currently have as long as possible but I wouldn't take it far or places where it will remain parked for more than 4-6hrs.
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