[lonecitizenfour]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Sound varies due to mod but honestly, the sound is irrelevant. It's all about the performance.

I think if anything, it's smoother during shifts.

[XAoPiLLz]

yes, its definitely smoother shifts, but most of all i can feel and see on the logs that im not losing nearly the boost i was during shifts. It actually feels like a nice strong pull after each shift.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by XAoPiLLz

yes, its definitely smoother shifts, but most of all i can feel and see on the logs that im not losing nearly the boost i was during shifts. It actually feels like a nice strong pull after each shift.

Exactly! Once the spring is broken in, it feels really nice.

[Noelified]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Exactly! Once the spring is broken in, it feels really nice.

How long would you say it took to break in? I've been running about a week (400 miles). Not that I'm waiting for anything I'm perfectly happy with performance as it is.

PS On my 2016 the plunger DID NOT pop out like the directions on the thread or GFB video. There is a green ring that keeps it secure so you just need to pop out the whole plunger assembly. Below are photos I took during take apart.

[XAoPiLLz]

Originally Posted by Noelified

How long would you say it took to break in? I've been running about a week (400 miles). Not that I'm waiting for anything I'm perfectly happy with performance as it is.

PS On my 2016 the plunger DID NOT pop out like the directions on the thread or GFB video. There is a green ring that keeps it secure so you just need to pop out the whole plunger assembly. Below are photos I took during take apart.

yeah, i had the same issue on my 16. probably should have mentioned that when i mentioned the torx vs allen head screws.

Did your wastegate and originaly DV use torx like my 16 did? curious as to whether its a 3 series thing or across the board on the 16s.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Noelified

How long would you say it took to break in? I've been running about a week (400 miles). Not that I'm waiting for anything I'm perfectly happy with performance as it is.

PS On my 2016 the plunger DID NOT pop out like the directions on the thread or GFB video. There is a green ring that keeps it secure so you just need to pop out the whole plunger assembly. Below are photos I took during take apart.

I wish I would've tracked mileage/time, but I'd say maybe a few weeks of driving? Say maybe 1k? It depends on how often it's engaged and how it's driven. I do more city driving, so plenty of stop-and-go.

Also, maybe my coffee hasn't kicked in but I don't recall having to pry mine out. I want to say my plunger came right out.

[smallba]

Great thread, with good info. It's a PITA but worth it, to me at least. Had mine in for year and change, and it does it's job to my liking. Some extra info from the original Installation thread that lost its pics https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1153103

IMG_1259

[Noelified]

Originally Posted by XAoPiLLz

yeah, i had the same issue on my 16. probably should have mentioned that when i mentioned the torx vs allen head screws.

Did your wastegate and originaly DV use torx like my 16 did? curious as to whether its a 3 series thing or across the board on the 16s.

Yep. Both had torx screws not allen, so must be revision across the board.

[Noelified]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

I wish I would've tracked mileage/time, but I'd say maybe a few weeks of driving? Say maybe 1k? It depends on how often it's engaged and how it's driven. I do more city driving, so plenty of stop-and-go.

Also, maybe my coffee hasn't kicked in but I don't recall having to pry mine out. I want to say my plunger came right out.

Yeah, I think it must be a revision that happened at some point. Watching video there is no way this version plunger will pop out. In fact I have to admit the OEM seems pretty bullet proof, especially considering the stock boost levels it expects to encounter. I don't know how it could fail as described, unless the plastic gets brittle and cracks, but even the plunger feels solid. I installed the extra spring for performance, and the single vent helps. For those reasons alone, its worth the price and install effort. I'm actually quite amazed this engineering, design and quality can be had for under $150. This thing really is top quality.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Noelified

Yeah, I think it must be a revision that happened at some point. Watching video there is no way this version plunger will pop out. In fact I have to admit the OEM seems pretty bullet proof, especially considering the stock boost levels it expects to encounter. I don't know how it could fail as described, unless the plastic gets brittle and cracks, but even the plunger feels solid. I installed the extra spring for performance, and the single vent helps. For those reasons alone, its worth the price and install effort. I'm actually quite amazed this engineering, design and quality can be had for under $150. This thing really is top quality.

I do agree that your OEM does look pretty solid. Mine was a flimsy POS when we finally pulled it lol. The single vent+spring is still much better but it does seem that BMW finally took notice to a flawed part of theirs (Still waiting on CP)

[Killakittie]

Can anyone confirm If this diverter valve works on the n26 as well? Are the diverter valves the same on the n20 and n26?

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by Killakittie

Can anyone confirm If this diverter valve works on the n26 as well? Are the diverter valves the same on the n20 and n26?

Confirmed, it does work on both N20 and N26.

[Noelified]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

Confirmed, it does work on both N20 and N26.

Yes you want item code T9357 for either N20/N26. Also make sure you buy from an authorized disty. I understand there are a lot of counterfeits out there. You don't have to find someone on their website list because those are master distributors (like Turn14) who then sell to retailers where we buy them from. Mostly just stay away from ebay.

[anotheran]

I'm surprised to hear about the running change in the 2016 to the OEM DV. RealOEM doesn't show a part change and says it's been in use since the beginning of the F30 production run. Must be a parts manufacturer change.. odd they didn't put a new part#

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_5185

[Noelified]

Originally Posted by anotheran

I'm surprised to hear about the running change in the 2016 to the OEM DV. RealOEM doesn't show a part change and says it's been in use since the beginning of the F30 production run. Must be a parts manufacturer change.. odd they didn't put a new part#

Wow, you're right -- thats interesting, because I can say, the ring and/or retaining ring are certainly different. There is no way that plunger is coming out without removing it as an assembly like in my pics. There is about 1/16" overlap. UNLESS, that green ring becomes worn and quickly narrows to a point of uselessness retaining the plunger.....

[Mid_Night_F20]

is it a 4mm or 5mm allen tool needed to remove the 3 screws from the stock BOV?

[Solidjake]

Originally Posted by Mid_Night_F20

is it a 4mm or 5mm allen tool needed to remove the 3 screws from the stock BOV?

4mm for the stock, 5mm for the GFB. In the first post

[combivan]

Originally Posted by Solidjake

Solidjake

Hey Solid i noticed your engine doesn't have a small pipe coming from the radiator whereas 1SLO4G does.
See my pic:

View post on imgur.com

[jordan35i]

Installed mine today+yesterday.

I have a 13 'N26 xdrive. The bolts securing the DV were TORX (T30) and the bolts securing the wastegate were T45.

I decided to remove my turbo inlet for the install, probably wouldn't recommend as I'm not sure how much it actually helped, and it's a pain to take off. I actually ended up breaking it and had to wait a couple days to get my hands on a new one from the dealer. If you're going to remove your inlet, be VERY CAREFUL when reinstalling! The plastic gets brittle over time and can easily break off when you're bending the pipe to get leverage on the securing nut. I'd actually recommend doing this from under the car. Slide your inlet into the turbo slot (I had to oil up my new inlet to get it to slide into the turbo, but if you're using your old inlet that shouldn't be an issue) and then secure the nut from under the car. Just don't break that plastic section!

For my ball end sockets, I used this kit from Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-...SABEgK8zvD_BwE

Highly recommend, pretty much perfect for the install. These came just thin enough to get the bolts in. Still, it would have been much easier if they were ground down just a little bit more, but with this set it's still doable without grinding.

As for the gains, the car definitely picks up faster now. Feels great! It shifted hard at first but very it's smooth now; I think it just needed to break in a little bit. Absolutely no flutter sound for me, but I also don't have an intake. I made sure to oil up that piston before the install, maybe that helped. I used the spring GFB supplied, NOT the factory spring. The turbo is a little louder but that's it. The main thing I noticed was much less turbo lag and the car holds boost so much better.

By the way; I'm fairly new to engine mods/bolt ons but still got it done. Don't be intimidated by this job; it's all patience and persistence.

[GreenF30N26]

Does anyone have any data showing better performance of an upgraded DV+ vs a properly working stock DV? As I understand it just maintains boost on shifts and when you backoff the throttle.

[ngl]

I just had my DV+ installed along with chargepipes and intercooler, so not sure what is causing my exhaust valve to stay open.

My working theory is that since the DV+ holds boost longer, the car's ECU thinks he needs to keep exhaust valve open longer also.

For now I don't mind it, exhaust sounds better, but I plan to have a catless downpipe installed soon and I would like the exhaust valve to stay closed in eco / comfort so I can leave home without waking up the entire neighborhood.

[SMiGGs]

I installed mine.

No difference. The sound thats heard on most youtube videos is actually really faint in person, unless you have the hood open and you're standing there hearing it. The flutter MIGHT sound a bit louder if you have a cold air intake or a custom tune with increased boost.

In my opinion, not worth the big price. I am completely stock, this is the only mod i have done related to the engine. I have stock engine, everything. Did not feel a difference at wide open throttle or anything.

I have a boosted Corvette, and a supercharged silverado. I am well aware of power adders and bolt-ons. This mod just gives you a beefier diverter valve. I would spend the extra money on an exhaust, intake, or put it towards a tune or some cosmetic mod, i was gonna put the stock one on and get my money back, but its a pain in the ass to un-install.

Just my honest opinion. Also there is a replica of this exact part selling for 27 dollars. Exactly the same, same spring, everything. Buddy bought it, compared it to my authentic one, and they are the same, even weighed the same. Not dropping link its an overseas vendor. Makes the same faint noise mine does. Good luck.