[beanbaguk]

No. I paid bimmertech to code an NBT unit that I bought from eBay.

They coded it for me and provided support with the installation of the hardware. However, since I don't have any emulators in my set-up, I don't have the cable hack that comes with some emulator harnesses to make the touch controller work.

As a result, I need to do this myself.

I really want to clarify. I bought the hardware. Bimmertech did the software coding and FSC activation.

[GCinFLA]

Originally Posted by beanbaguk

No. I paid bimmertech to code an NBT unit that I bought from eBay.

They coded it for me and provided support with the installation of the hardware. However, since I don't have any emulators in my set-up, I don't have the cable hack that comes with some emulator harnesses to make the touch controller work.

As a result, I need to do this myself.

I really want to clarify. I bought the hardware. Bimmertech did the software coding and FSC activation.

I would still think they could assist as they have to have run into this.

I was told that it had to be run to the FEM in the right front kick plate (perhaps on left in UK cars?).

[beanbaguk]

Originally Posted by GCinFLA

I would still think they could assist as they have to have run into this.

I was told that it had to be run to the FEM in the right front kick plate (perhaps on left in UK cars?).

They are assisting. Although it's not working and probably down to me doing something wrong.

It's not necessary to touch the FEM unit. I would certainly leave any OEM wiring well alone. The nice thing about having an audio harness is the ability to tap into these cables knowing they are removable and replaceable.

I don't have confirmation from Bimmertech yet, but I suspect I am using the wrong type of cabling for the CAN2 bus. I used 1.5mm electrical cable and I'm thinking I should have used a couple of strands from a Cat7 twisted pair network cable.

Moreover, I'm not sure if the power is properly routed....

[GCinFLA]

Originally Posted by beanbaguk

I'm struggling to get this done. I tapped into pins 9 and 11 on the main harness plug using a cable tap but I can't get this work.

Here are a couple of screenshots from the install....ideas?

I do know the CAN2 wires are yellow with red stripes and yellow with brown stripes. Those do not appear to be that color.

[beanbaguk]

Originally Posted by GCinFLA

I do know the CAN2 wires are yellow with red stripes and yellow with brown stripes. Those do not appear to be that color.

This is not the OEM harness so the colours are different. This is a Bimmertech audio harness for their amplifier.

Bimmertech provided this photo to me identifying the colours on their harness which is identical to mine.

I'm thinking it's the cable I used but I'm worried about removing the wire tap....

[GCinFLA]

Originally Posted by beanbaguk

This is not the OEM harness so the colours are different. This is a Bimmertech audio harness for their amplifier.

Bimmertech provided this photo to me identifying the colours on their harness which is identical to mine.

I'm thinking it's the cable I used but I'm worried about removing the wire tap....

I think I'm going to wire mine to the correct color wires for certainty after your issues....if that's at the FEM, that fine with me.

I have found 18 gauge wire on eBay with yellow/red and yellow/brown to make sure the color remains constant throughout the car.

[beanbaguk]

Originally Posted by GCinFLA

I think I'm going to wire mine to the correct color wires for certainty after your issues....if that's at the FEM, that fine with me.

I have found 18 gauge wire on eBay with yellow/red and yellow/brown to make sure the color remains constant throughout the car.

Can you share the link to that eBay auction?

[GCinFLA]

Originally Posted by beanbaguk

Can you share the link to that eBay auction?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/251646894249

[beanbaguk]

Originally Posted by GCinFLA

https://www.ebay.com/itm/251646894249

Thanks! Just remember as you are carrying data, the cable should be twisted to avoid any interference. I think that's where I'm going wrong....

[beanbaguk]

Just an FYI. I've got a ton of this cable and I think I might just use this for the job. It'll certainly avoid any interference if I use one twisted pair in the metal shield

[GCinFLA]

Originally Posted by beanbaguk

Thanks! Just remember as you are carrying data, the cable should be twisted to avoid any interference. I think that's where I'm going wrong....

Yes, was about to post that you wire doesn't look twisted.

I ordered 25 feet of each...so I could twist together and wire as much as I need.

[beanbaguk]

Originally Posted by GCinFLA

Yes, was about to post that you wire doesn't look twisted.

I ordered 25 feet of each...so I could twist together and wire as much as I need.

It's easier said than done with untwisted cable!

You have to "spin" the cable to make it twist and it's hard to do. I'm going to try with my network cable this weekend and fingers crossed I can make it work. I'm just very nervous about "untapping" the cable on the harness.

[GCinFLA]

Originally Posted by beanbaguk

I'm just very nervous about "untapping" the cable on the harness.

That's why I would only tap using the 3m Scotchlok Connector so I would never need to cut a factory wire.

[beanbaguk]

Originally Posted by GCinFLA

That's why I would only tap using the 3m Scotchlok Connector so I would never need to cut a factory wire.

That's exactly what I used as you can tell from the photos I published earlier...

[GCinFLA]

Originally Posted by beanbaguk

That's exactly what I used as you can tell from the photos I published earlier...

Then no issue removing the added wire.

[Jay928S4GT]

Originally Posted by beanbaguk

P.S. Just to add, I had a look at your NBT unit on eBay. That's not a very good deal.

I paid €600 for mine including a display and touch pad controller. Keep looking. You will eventually find a good deal on eBay.

For reference, here's a breakdown of all the costs:

- NBT, display and touch controller - €596
- NBT display cable - €25
- Y-splitter cable - €18
- Radio splitter cable - €12
- Touch ECU - €50

Total hardware cost: €701

Coding and activation: €433

Total cost: €1,134

(This does not include DAB antenna costs, so keep that also in mind).

It's not cheap but the end result is definitely worth it

@ beenbagUK: good to see a DIYer crack what seem to be a taboo subject.
My wife has the 6.5” screen on 1. F30 . Man’fac June 2013
2. HD_CHAMP2
3. S606A Navigation System Bussiness
4. On the Satnav screen it reads ‘Road Map Europe MOVE 2013’
5. S6NHA hands-free with USB interface
I believe it’s the same old hardware as yours. Looking at your costings I have a Speciesist who can supply and NBT system at £850 an NBT System with 10.25” screen, using the existing small Dial knob. Is this a good deal as an NBT with a large dial Knob hardware on ebay between £350-400. Cables will be extra! So the installers changing around £450 in labour but takes the headache away! I can code but will need to gen-up on it and buy the cables and waste a week or two of my time.You think it’s worth giving to the installer as they will need to cut into the trim to fit the 10.25” screen? Let me have your thoughts?

[klepic]

Hello all, I managed to do full retrofit by my self and everything besides one thing works great! I am unable to use nbt touch iDrive controller. Anyone know how to fix this one too? Could any of you provide me a video to retrofit this one also, please?

Thanks!