[Eschmacher]

Hey all,

I wanted to make this post to show off my amp install and document some issues I ran into with the LOC that technic PnP provided with the LOC-XQ kit.

Back in february, I upgraded my underseat subs to the bavsound ghost kit. Even with this upgrade, I never really felt like I had enough bass. I also couldn't stand the bass roll-off from the L7/H&K amp... it just dies off and the super low notes from my drum and bass were too quiet.

I ended up grabbing a harness from technic PnP - the kit is pretty straight forward, but requires some experience with crimping cables. I won't go into detail with how to connect the harness and wiring to the line out converter

The bavsound subs for the H&K system are rated at 100 watts and are 8 ohm. I ended up overshooting this originally and grabbed an alpine MRV-M500 - rated at 500 watts at 2 ohm and 300 watts at 4 ohm. By cabling both 8 ohm subwoofers into the same output from the amp, you end up with a 4 ohm load.

The result was way too much power. At minimum gain on the LOC and AMP, it was just right, maybe a little too loud. This wasn't how I wanted to run the system, so I ended up ordering an MRV-M250 - rated at 250 watts @ 2ohm. Ironically, both amps were about the same price on amazon despite the large wattage difference.

Another issue was the LOC that was provided from technic PnP. It is a wavtech audio LineQ. It is a well built LOC, it definitely feels quality. However, it is set up to trigger the remote wire to the amp by detecting the bass signal from the PnP harness. The issue with this, is that at low volume or in sections of songs with little to no bass, the LOC does not stay on, resulting in no bass whatsoever. I contacted both technic and wavtech, and was told I would need to run a remote wire to the LOC.

After some research, I discovered a good fuse in the trunk that is only active while the car is on or running. Perfect for the LOC/amp! The alternative is to run the remote wire to the rear cigarette lighter, but that circuit stays active for a few minutes after shutting the car off and locking it. I wanted to put as little drain on my battery as possible.

Here is the rear fuse box:



The fuse we're going to use is fuse 146. The fuse diagram for my car indicates this is either for homelink or the PDC system.

I've highlighted the fuse:



To remove the fuse box, you need a 10mm socket (assuming you haven't lost yours yet).

Here are the wires going to fuse 146 from the bottom. They are both green with a yellow stripe:



I then isolated this wire and used a tap splice (18-14 gauge) to tap the power from the wire and ran my remote wire to the LOC:



Remote wire ran to the LOC:



The finished result looks ok. I succeeded in keeping all of this out of sight under the trunk floor cover - which was my main concern.



I hope this helps someone who is considering doing this!

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by Eschmacher

I upgraded my underseat subs to the bavsound ghost kit. Even with this upgrade, I never really felt like I had enough bass.

The main limitation on what the under seat woofers can do in both low frequency extension and maximum output is the size of the enclosures. It doesn't matter what you use for drivers or amps, you can only get so much out of those small enclosures. If you want to get a significantly better result a separately powered trunk mounted sub is the only way to get it.

[Eschmacher]

While that may be true, I was able to get enough out of them with this aftermarket amp to make me happy.

[1QuikWS6]

Just as an FYI - there is no need to go to all the trouble of removing the fuse block & tapping into wires below the fuse

You can use a simple fuse tap that includes original fuse for the circuit + additional piggyback fuse for the circuit you are adding. They make them in several different fuse styles

[1QuikWS6]

I will soon be installing similar setup using the new Technic harness w/LOC-X-XQ except I am using:

• JL Audio XD500/3v2 amp
• 10W3V3-2 - JL Audio 10" 500 Watt 2 Ohm Subwoofer
• Musicar 10" Custom Trunk Sub Enclosure
• Bavsound Ghost Underseats

Amp will power underseats to 75W RMS x 2 @ 4ohms + the 10" sub to 300W RMS x 1 @ 2ohm

I will have to test out the issue you had with using the REM Sensing wire on the new LOC. If this is true in all cases it's kinda disheartening as he touted this as one of the great features of the new LOC he is selling vs. the old Audiocontrol LC2i

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by Eschmacher

While that may be true, I was able to get enough out of them with this aftermarket amp to make me happy.

Good enough, but the stock drivers might have worked just as well. Only by taking response and maximum SPL measurements of the two can you be sure. I could be sure without doing that if I knew the Theile/Small specs of the Ghosts, but they're nowhere to be found.

[Eschmacher]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

I could be sure without doing that if I knew the Theile/Small specs of the Ghosts, but they're nowhere to be found.

I noticed that as well, I tried to do a bunch of research on them before buying, but I ended up impulse buying them.

1QuikWS6 - You're absolutely right. I would have done that if I had not been in a rush, and I already had some of those tap splices handy, so I just decided to use what I had.

[335JTSD]

Any updates on the LOC-X sensing issues? I really want to go this route. I have a 10w6 ready to hook up just trying to talk myself into buying the 1000/5 to power it and the underseat woofers.

[Eschmacher]

Originally Posted by 335JTSD

Any updates on the LOC-X sensing issues? I really want to go this route. I have a 10w6 ready to hook up just trying to talk myself into buying the 1000/5 to power it and the underseat woofers.

Nothing new to report, running the trigger wire solved the issue for me - I will not be pursuing a fix for the signal sensing on the LOC-X.

If you haven't bought the harness yet, you might want to grab the add a sub harness without a LOC and buy yourself an LC2i, maybe that will have better signal sensing?

[1QuikWS6]

LC2i uses Remote Turn On wire not signal sensing - that was one of the main reasons to go with the new LOC as it supposedly HAS Signal Sensing

Kinda defeats the purpose if it doesn't work reliably...

But I can't say for sure as I still haven't had a chance to install mine

[335JTSD]

Can I still purchase from him the adapters for the underseat woofers if just get the add a sub and get my own LOC? I don't see that listed separately and only see with the LOC-X package for $150-$175. Not all that much information on the website.

[1QuikWS6]

Originally Posted by 335JTSD

Can I still purchase from him the adapters for the underseat woofers if just get the add a sub and get my own LOC? I don't see that listed separately and only see with the LOC-X package for $150-$175. Not all that much information on the website.

Harness without LOC is right beside the one with LOC on his site

https://technicpnp.com/product/logic...sub-t-harness/

and the underseat adapters are listed directly below that

https://technicpnp.com/product/sws-8...er-connectors/

Seems easy to navigate to me

[335JTSD]

My bad, I don't know what I was thinking those were different than in the kit. Thank you for clarifying for me

[Eschmacher]

Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6

LC2i uses Remote Turn On wire not signal sensing - that was one of the main reasons to go with the new LOC as it supposedly HAS Signal Sensing

Kinda defeats the purpose if it doesn't work reliably...

But I can't say for sure as I still haven't had a chance to install mine

Oh, didn't realize the lc2i didn't have signal sensing, that's my b.

335jtsd: you can add your own LOC, but you have to make sure it can handle up to 30-40V input.

[335JTSD]

Anyone have suggestions on which kit to buy from Technic? I was planning on getting a remote bass knob for my JL Audio amp so not sure if I need the LOC-XQ. Thanks!

LOC-XD : Gain adjustment, signal clipping indicator
LOC-XQ : Remote Gain Knob with 16′ cable, signal clipping indicator, Bass Boost/EQ/Frequency adjustments

[dr.roro]

Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6

LC2i uses Remote Turn On wire not signal sensing - that was one of the main reasons to go with the new LOC as it supposedly HAS Signal Sensing

Kinda defeats the purpose if it doesn't work reliably...

But I can't say for sure as I still haven't had a chance to install mine

Any updates on the install? Thoughts on the LOC-X vs. LC2i?

[1QuikWS6]

Originally Posted by 335JTSD

Anyone have suggestions on which kit to buy from Technic? I was planning on getting a remote bass knob for my JL Audio amp so not sure if I need the LOC-XQ. Thanks!

LOC-XD : Gain adjustment, signal clipping indicator
LOC-XQ : Remote Gain Knob with 16′ cable, signal clipping indicator, Bass Boost/EQ/Frequency adjustments

I contacted Elias (Technic) with same question, his answer:

'This gain knob adjust the gain at the LOC, so you can use it to control the input level of your JL amp -the JL amp gain must be adjusted and set to your liking to then use the LOC knob as your main level control. If you use the JL knob then you will have to adjust the gain of the LOC to match the JL amp knob adjustment - the same adjustment but at the LOC. Same result, different knob.'

I opted to get the knob on the LOC (LOC-XQ) instead of having to buy yet another separate item

Any updates on the install? Thoughts on the LOC-X vs. LC2i?

I won't be doing my install till Spring now. Car is kept outside during Winter as my garage is full of other 'toys'

[335JTSD]

Awesome thank you!

[Boostinwithfish]

Originally Posted by Eschmacher

Hey all,

I wanted to make this post to show off my amp install and document some issues I ran into with the LOC that technic PnP provided with the LOC-XQ kit.

Back in february, I upgraded my underseat subs to the bavsound ghost kit. Even with this upgrade, I never really felt like I had enough bass. I also couldn't stand the bass roll-off from the L7/H&K amp... it just dies off and the super low notes from my drum and bass were too quiet.

I ended up grabbing a harness from technic PnP - the kit is pretty straight forward, but requires some experience with crimping cables. I won't go into detail with how to connect the harness and wiring to the line out converter

The bavsound subs for the H&K system are rated at 100 watts and are 8 ohm. I ended up overshooting this originally and grabbed an alpine MRV-M500 - rated at 500 watts at 2 ohm and 300 watts at 4 ohm. By cabling both 8 ohm subwoofers into the same output from the amp, you end up with a 4 ohm load.

The result was way too much power. At minimum gain on the LOC and AMP, it was just right, maybe a little too loud. This wasn't how I wanted to run the system, so I ended up ordering an MRV-M250 - rated at 250 watts @ 2ohm. Ironically, both amps were about the same price on amazon despite the large wattage difference.

Another issue was the LOC that was provided from technic PnP. It is a wavtech audio LineQ. It is a well built LOC, it definitely feels quality. However, it is set up to trigger the remote wire to the amp by detecting the bass signal from the PnP harness. The issue with this, is that at low volume or in sections of songs with little to no bass, the LOC does not stay on, resulting in no bass whatsoever. I contacted both technic and wavtech, and was told I would need to run a remote wire to the LOC.

After some research, I discovered a good fuse in the trunk that is only active while the car is on or running. Perfect for the LOC/amp! The alternative is to run the remote wire to the rear cigarette lighter, but that circuit stays active for a few minutes after shutting the car off and locking it. I wanted to put as little drain on my battery as possible.

Here is the rear fuse box:



The fuse we're going to use is fuse 146. The fuse diagram for my car indicates this is either for homelink or the PDC system.

I've highlighted the fuse:



To remove the fuse box, you need a 10mm socket (assuming you haven't lost yours yet).

Here are the wires going to fuse 146 from the bottom. They are both green with a yellow stripe:



I then isolated this wire and used a tap splice (18-14 gauge) to tap the power from the wire and ran my remote wire to the LOC:



Remote wire ran to the LOC:



The finished result looks ok. I succeeded in keeping all of this out of sight under the trunk floor cover - which was my main concern.



I hope this helps someone who is considering doing this!

Thanks bro this made finding a remote easy

[BMW_340]

What's the contraption to the left of your fuse box? I don't have that in my car.

[Eschmacher]

Originally Posted by sp330i

What's the contraption to the left of your fuse box? I don't have that in my car.

I believe that's the telematic control box.