[joshio93]

I'm confused. Bill saying doesn't mean the amp is ok. Ollie saying amp is fine?

I think bill is right the light is just the Fibre optic coming from the Head unit?

I've got one of them little fuse light things where you can just test it by poking the probes an it lights up but seems very temperamental! Is there a fuse puller with the car? If not might just be able to use plyers?

Don't think mine has ASD. Is there a way to tell if it does?

[Olliehh]

Originally Posted by joshio93

I'm confused. Bill saying doesn't mean the amp is ok. Ollie saying amp is fine?

I think bill is right the light is just the Fibre optic coming from the Head unit?

I've got one of them little fuse light things where you can just test it by poking the probes an it lights up but seems very temperamental! Is there a fuse puller with the car? If not might just be able to use plyers?

Don't think mine has ASD. Is there a way to tell if it does?

Yes there should be a fuse puller on the right hand side of the fuse box. I’d be hesitant to use pliers. Also yes it will have ASD it’s likely just turned off by default. If you had OBDII scanner that can read Bmw codes you will see it’s off by default.

And about the red light in the amp. My water damaged amp showed no lights. And I got a ‘no warning tones’ message on the idrive. When the new amp arrived and I connected it I could see a red light and I got no error messages and everything appeared to be working but I had no sound.

My scanner gave me a code that said the power supply for the ASD was under voltage. I checked the fuses and the 40amp fuse next to the one for the amplifier had gone.

Go here https://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-bo...0-f31-f34.html scroll down to the boot fuse diagram you’ll see it says number 11 is for the hi-fi amplifier and number 12 it says is unused. But in our cars that’s not true number 12 is used and contains a 40amp fuse (due to the code I got I figured it must be for the ASD unit within the amp, it was the only one blown and when I replaced it, everything started working). The fuse diagram with your car will confirm this.

Hope that fixes it for you!

[joshio93]

Originally Posted by Olliehh

Yes there should be a fuse puller on the right hand side of the fuse box. I’d be hesitant to use pliers. Also yes it will have ASD it’s likely just turned off by default. If you had OBDII scanner that can read Bmw codes you will see it’s off by default.

And about the red light in the amp. My water damaged amp showed no lights. And I got a ‘no warning tones’ message on the idrive. When the new amp arrived and I connected it I could see a red light and I got no error messages and everything appeared to be working but I had no sound.

My scanner gave me a code that said the power supply for the ASD was under voltage. I checked the fuses and the 40amp fuse next to the one for the amplifier had gone.

Go here https://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-f30-f31-f34.html scroll down to the boot fuse diagram you’ll see it says number 11 is for the hi-fi amplifier and number 12 it says is unused. But in our cars that’s not true number 12 is used and contains a 40amp fuse. The fuse diagram with your car will confirm this.

Hope that fixes it for you!

Originally Posted by Olliehh

Yes there should be a fuse puller on the right hand side of the fuse box. I'd be hesitant to use pliers. Also yes it will have ASD it's likely just turned off by default. If you had OBDII scanner that can read Bmw codes you will see it's off by default.

And about the red light in the amp. My water damaged amp showed no lights. And I got a 'no warning tones' message on the idrive. When the new amp arrived and I connected it I could see a red light and I got no error messages and everything appeared to be working but I had no sound.

My scanner gave me a code that said the power supply for the ASD was under voltage. I checked the fuses and the 40amp fuse next to the one for the amplifier had gone.

Go here https://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-bo...0-f31-f34.html scroll down to the boot fuse diagram you'll see it says number 11 is for the hi-fi amplifier and number 12 it says is unused. But in our cars that's not true number 12 is used and contains a 40amp fuse. The fuse diagram with your car will confirm this.

Hope that fixes it for you!

After a quick google it seems the ASD module is usually attached to the amp. At opposite end to the other cables. There's nothing attached with my amp so don't think I have ASD. My fuse diagram was different to that too, was more like this and was numbered from 100-166 I think!

https://fuse-box.info/bmw/bmw-3-seri...uses-and-relay

[Olliehh]

Originally Posted by joshio93

After a quick google it seems the ASD module is usually attached to the amp. At opposite end to the other cables. There's nothing attached with my amp so don't think I have ASD. My fuse diagram was different to that too, was more like this and was numbered from 100-166 I think!

https://fuse-box.info/bmw/bmw-3-seri...uses-and-relay

Yes that’s correct the fuse diagram looks like the one in the image you sent me. The numbers are different but they correspond to the same things, if you look closer you’ll see they show the same info. But the one in your car is specifically for your car (the one from the website I sent is from an f30 I think). The diagram in the car also doesn’t tell you what each fuse is for but the website I sent does (mostly).

With the f34 the ASD is within the amplifier it’s not a separate unit see this eBay listing you’ll notice it’s the same amplifier design as ours and it says with ASD. Trust me your car has it. If mine does so does yours it’s just disabled, and if your amp looks like the ones in the listing it certainly has ASD built in. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-F80-F....m46890.l49292

[joshio93]

Originally Posted by Olliehh

Yes that's correct the fuse diagram looks like the one in the image you sent me. The numbers are different but they correspond to the same things, if you look closer you'll see they show the same info. But the one in your car is specifically for your car (the one from the website I sent is from an f30 I think). The diagram in the car also doesn't tell you what each fuse is for but the website I sent does (mostly).

With the f34 the ASD is within the amplifier it's not a separate unit see this eBay listing you'll notice it's the same amplifier design as ours and it says with ASD. Trust me your car has it. If mine does so does yours it's just disabled, and if your amp looks like the ones in the listing it certainly has ASD built in. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-F80-F....m46890.l49292

Hmm ok I'll give it another go tomorrow and try and check a few of the fuses. I'm pretty convinced the amp is toast though. The garage who dried the car out said they opened it up and it was rusty inside!

As for a fault reader the only thing I have is bimmercode. If I got bimmerlink would that allow me to read faults?

Thanks for the help btw. Also, I see someone has bid on your amp listing, at least you'll get something back for it!

[Olliehh]

Originally Posted by joshio93

Hmm ok I'll give it another go tomorrow and try and check a few of the fuses. I'm pretty convinced the amp is toast though. The garage who dried the car out said they opened it up and it was rusty inside!

As for a fault reader the only thing I have is bimmercode. If I got bimmerlink would that allow me to read faults?

Thanks for the help btw. Also, I see someone has bid on your amp listing, at least you'll get something back for it!

It’s definitely worth checking the fuse, especially as it literally takes 2 minutes. I’m not sure what bimmerlink and bimmercode can do. I used the Carly adapter to pull my codes. I would think at least one of them are capable of reading error codes, check their websites.

The rust inside is a bit alarming! Why not open it up and have a look yourself? If there is rust it almost certainly will stop working eventually (as the corrosion gets worse) so if there is. It might be worth sending to cartronics if you’re not confident in being able to clean it yourself! The amp isn’t the same as our in this guide but the process is the same, I followed this and cleaned mine but it still didn’t work. https://www.bmwrepairguide.com/trunk-leak-amplifier-water-damage-bmw/

Let me know what you find with the fuse, I’m interested to know!

And yes I’m glad my broken amp will sell. Means the costs for this repair has been kept extremely low especially considering what it would’ve cost had I taken it to any of the garages I had contacted! They all quoted between £75-95 an hour just to diagnose!

[Billfitz]

Get Bimmer-tool Lite. It's freeware but works very well. It can be cranky about connecting to the car. I connect with Bimmercode first to establish the connection, then exit that and start Bimmer-tool Lite.

[F30zoom]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Get Bimmer-tool Lite. It's freeware but works very well. It can be cranky about connecting to the car. I connect with Bimmercode first to establish the connection, then exit that and start Bimmer-tool Lite.

Bimmerlink is excellent I use it with my iphone and a cable connection, well worth the money it will pull all the codes the same as genuine BMW software ( I have both) its only cranky to connect if you don't put your iphone into airplane mode. I also code with bimmercode.

[F30zoom]

The drains under the spoiler run down inside the hatch area. If you manually lift the spoiler with the boot closed and tip water into the "H" shape area you will see the water run out the bottom of the hatch onto the top of the bumper. I think there is a good chance that the standing snow on the hatch has melted and found its way in via the boot seals as they may of been frozen and not sealing tight enough. Mine was fine although I did have the spoiler fail to lift, however I just banged it hard with my fist to break the ice seal after clearing the snow. I never leave large quantities of snow on any of my cars just in case it melts and finds it's way in. (Not that we have that much normally)

[joshio93]

UPDATE!

Finally got round to checking the fuses and you were right Olliehh , there was a blown 40Amp fuse next to the other sound ones.

Replaced that then reconnected the amp and it blew straight away. So to me that says the amp isn't completely dead but something it causing it to short and blow the fuse?

I'm going to give that cartronics a go and send the amp to them to hopefully repair!

[Olliehh]

Originally Posted by joshio93

UPDATE!

Finally got round to checking the fuses and you were right Olliehh , there was a blown 40Amp fuse next to the other sound ones.

Replaced that then reconnected the amp and it blew straight away. So to me that says the amp isn't completely dead but something it causing it to short and blow the fuse?

I'm going to give that cartronics a go and send the amp to them to hopefully repair!

Thought so! Give us an update on how you get in a cartronics would be interesting to know what they actually charge!

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by joshio93

Replaced that then reconnected the amp and it blew straight away. So to me that says the amp isn't completely dead but something it causing it to short and blow the fuse?

Maybe it's just mostly dead?

I wouldn't count on it. Instantly blowing a fuse usually indicates a fatal exception. Once upon a time amps could be easily serviced, but that hasn't been the case since the 1990s. The way they're put together today makes them very difficult to service, and the labor cost alone to do so can easily exceed the cost to replace them. I'd be surprised if you could even find anyone who works on BMW amps.

[joshio93]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Maybe it's just mostly dead?

I wouldn't count on it. Instantly blowing a fuse usually indicates a fatal exception. Once upon a time amps could be easily serviced, but that hasn't been the case since the 1990s. The way they're put together today makes them very difficult to service, and the labor cost alone to do so can easily exceed the cost to replace them. I'd be surprised if you could even find anyone who works on BMW amps.

Think you were right Bill unfortunately.

Cartronics came back today and said i'd fried the 2 main boards and it could be fixed but looking at £750 in parts. I decided to not bother and keep looking on ebay for 2nd hand ones!

[Billfitz]

I remember the good old days of working on valve amps with point to point wiring. It was simple and easy. Nowadays you can't replace a component, you have to replace a board or module. That lowers the cost of making an amp but also means fixing one isn't cost effective.

[Olliehh]

Originally Posted by joshio93

Think you were right Bill unfortunately.

Cartronics came back today and said i'd fried the 2 main boards and it could be fixed but looking at £750 in parts. I decided to not bother and keep looking on ebay for 2nd hand ones!

Wow big number! I bought mine from a US seller on eBay called ‘shine2005’ he has a selection of amps and always seems to be getting new ones. It was £300 less than that quote from cartronics and he even lowered the price a bit for me to help with the expensive shipping fees.

[Billfitz]

He gets his new ones out of wrecks. The amp is one of the first things a junkyard would strip from a wreck, right after the cat. The US would be a much better source than the UK or Europe, because US cars don't offer the base stereo, so they all have amps.

[Senhorcheeks435]

[IMG][/IMG] mines coming from here I have no idea how to stop it

[Bux]

I'm taking up this old thread since I had the same issue with my F34 2015, water leakage into the amp location that killed it.
After dismantling most of the covers in the rear of the car and a lot of investigation I think I have found the root case of the issue.
The left drain hole under the spoiler was blocked so that was my initial suspect.
Clearing the drain blockage helped but still water was coming into the car.

The drain tube is locked in place with 4 latches, in my case only one of the latches where still in place see picture and video.

https://youtu.be/dS1Hlg7oCKw
After using a couple of screwdrivers I was able to get all 4 back in place.
I guess the reason for this to happen in the first place is probably ice blocked under the spoiler that made pressure to the latches so they slipped.
Making water coming inside of the rear hatch and out of the bottom holes.
And since they are on the inside of the rubber seal and then leaking in via the center locking and into the rear boot..



Hope this helps others with same issue

Sverre

[Toreterj]

Originally Posted by Bux

I'm taking up this old thread since I had the same issue with my F34 2015, water leakage into the amp location that killed it.
After dismantling most of the covers in the rear of the car and a lot of investigation I think I have found the root case of the issue.
The left drain hole under the spoiler was blocked so that was my initial suspect.
Clearing the drain blockage helped but still water was coming into the car.


The drain tube is locked in place with 4 latches, in my case only one of the latches where still in place see picture and video.
Attachment 2933708
https://youtu.be/dS1Hlg7oCKw
After using a couple of screwdrivers I was able to get all 4 back in place.
I guess the reason for this to happen in the first place is probably ice blocked under the spoiler that made pressure to the latches so they slipped.
Making water coming inside of the rear hatch and out of the bottom holes.
And since they are on the inside of the rubber seal and then leaking in via the center locking and into the rear boot..
Attachment 2933706
Attachment 2933707

Hope this helps others with same issue

Sverre

Great post, just emptied out a lot of water AMP gone. I'll test this tomorrow. Also sent you a PM.

Cheers, Tore

[Siem67]

Had to have my amp replaced from same issue. Never had a definite reason to why, but I suspected it was from power washing the wheelwells. Horrible design by BMW.

[eggwhisk]

I have the same issue, water getting in and I believe from the spoiler area. The AMP has blown the fuse, but not before flaming and smoking, its shot. BMW have quoted £1260 for a replacement AMP, HK B262 model, which is a mad amount of money. What has everyone else done when their AMp has been damaged to a state where it needs replacement please?

Cheers

[rambleon84]

This is happening to me still. I thought it might have been the drains under the spoiler. I have had those clogged in the past and when opening the hatch then, any water that was pooled up would spill over the trunk. I am not getting that, my drains are still functioning.

Water is collecting on both sides, moreso over the battery carpet. See attached video. The drip is constant enough to pool around the battery and amp, I have to dry them out a couple times now. I am starting to think it's a seal somewhere but not sure where. The rubber still seams flexible and soft along the entire hatch, no cracking or brittleness. I think I will need to remove the trim and go lay in the boot and see if I can tell where it's coming from.

Has anyone had any luck with replacing seals? Any places to focus my attention? Any removed the trim around this area before, tips?

I have had to dry out both sides in the past, got caught out in the rain over night yesterday again though.

Update, did some testing with water. Pouring water here, it drains out from below the taillight under the car:




pouring water on the roof and letting it drain, produces rain inside the car in the same place i had that drip in the video above.

This upper seal isnt snapping in place and seems like i could easily pull it out.



So follow up question, is it just this upper most seal, nearest the roof that i need to replace. Or since the car is taking on water, that means something is wrong with the main seal going around the entire hatch?