[Jvac]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

A lot of times sellers will jack up the price like that when they're out of stock so they don't have to take down the listing.




KC Design's strut bar fits 5 bolt pattern tops.

I know, the kc is like the weichers, Megan, etc in that it appears to attach to the frontmost 3 of 5 bolts. I don't see a problem with that design, but Jahjaman was hinting at something. The Megan bar is considerably cheaper than the others though, so I'm trying to find out if there's any truth to this claim that the 'ecu cover' needs to be trimmed or removed. It seems odd given the fact that the ecu is lower down on the side of the engine

[CrushJelly]

Originally Posted by Jvac

If you have a link, pass it on.

You don't need a link. Just go from the Malaysian website and send them an email. They will take care of you. That's where they are made.

We got our Australian ones from there too.

[Jvac]

Today I installed the megan racing bar.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Megan-Front...53.m2763.l2649

To answer my own question above, it does not require removal or trimming of the 'ecu cover' panel which is just to the side of the driver's side strut tower. There isn't much clearance between the mounting bracket on that tower and the ecu cover, but it fit fine. 2nd pic shows the driver's side mount sitting atop the ecu cover.

These bars are t6 aluminum and can be found on ebay for ~85$ at the moment. An outstanding deal compared to most of the others which run ~175 for steel and 275$ for aluminum.

I did have to unclip the wire bundles which run along the front of the strut towers on both sides because the bar mounting plates stick out over the edges of the towers just enough that they get hung up on those wires. I relocated each wire bundle from the top side to the underside of its existing clip point and used a zip tie to secure it. Once that was done it was an easy bolt on job.

I do wonder if it would be better to have longer bolts for the strut tower mounts now, because the added thickness of the bar mounting brackets means the bolts don't thread in as far. Those of you who are running strut bars- did you use longer bolts or stick with the stock? I counted about 5-6 full turns of thread in until they were tight (plus another 1/2-3/4 turn to reach the torque spec) vs about 8-9 turns without the bar brackets installed. No additional hardware is supplied with the bar so I assume they expect you to reuse the stock. I tried removing the washers from the stock bolts to replace them with slimmer ones, but they don't seem to want to come off easily and I didn't want to risk damaging those bolts without any replacements on hand. It almost looks as if they are fixed on the section of the bolt which is unthreaded and aren't meant to slide off over the threaded section without causing damage.

[Logicoeur]

Originally Posted by Jvac

Today I installed the megan racing bar.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Megan-Front-Upper-Strut-Bar-Race-Spec-Fits-BMW-3-Series-F30-12-18-MR-SB-BF30FU/382551022291?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2060353.m2763.l2649

To answer my own question above, it does not require removal or trimming of the 'ecu cover' panel which is just to the side of the driver's side strut tower. There isn't much clearance between the mounting bracket on that tower and the ecu cover, but it fit fine. 2nd pic shows the driver's side mount sitting atop the ecu cover.

These bars are t6 aluminum and can be found on ebay for ~85$ at the moment. An outstanding deal compared to most of the others which run ~175 for steel and 275$ for aluminum.

I did have to unclip the wire bundles which run along the front of the strut towers on both sides because the bar mounting plates stick out over the edges of the towers just enough that they get hung up on those wires. I relocated each wire bundle from the top side to the underside of its existing clip point and used a zip tie to secure it. Once that was done it was an easy bolt on job.

I do wonder if it would be better to have longer bolts for the strut tower mounts now, because the added thickness of the bar mounting brackets means the bolts don't thread in as far. Those of you who are running strut bars- did you use longer bolts or stick with the stock? I counted about 5-6 full turns of thread in until they were tight (plus another 1/2-3/4 turn to reach the torque spec) vs about 8-9 turns without the bar brackets installed. No additional hardware is supplied with the bar so I assume they expect you to reuse the stock. I tried removing the washers from the stock bolts to replace them with slimmer ones, but they don't seem to want to come off easily and I didn't want to risk damaging those bolts without any replacements on hand. It almost looks as if they are fixed on the section of the bolt which is unthreaded and aren't meant to slide off over the threaded section without causing damage.

Good to hear. I have been eying these.

[floridaorange]

Cool - make any difference?

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by floridaorange

Cool - make any difference?

Yes. As others in the thread say, I agree it stiffens the front end in a good way. I find it more unified and composed, not flexing as much over uneven roads or corners where there is an elevation change like a road crest or sloped driveway. The steering is also less vague. This is no magic bullet, but For 85 bucks and a few minutes of wrenching, I am very satisfied with the mod. My car has m-sport adaptive suspension package, Rwd for reference. I can't comment on other trim levels but at this price it's basically an impulse buy.

[ChristosD]

hi does anyone know what the torque setting is for the strut bolts i have a ultra racing strut bar that id like to install. Is 25nm correct?

[52172]

I'm gonna run a Megan racing too 😎

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by ChristosD

hi does anyone know what the torque setting is for the strut bolts i have a ultra racing strut bar that id like to install. Is 25nm correct?

You can find that torque spec for your vehicle on NewTIS. Note that it's different depending on the year (some years had 3 bolts, some had 5, and the size of the bolts sometimes changed).

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

You can find that torque spec for your vehicle on NewTIS. Note that it's different depending on the year (some years had 3 bolts, some had 5, and the size of the bolts sometimes changed).

FaRKle, any concerns about the bolts no longer threading as deep into the top mounts with the strut brace installed? Gave up about 5mm of threadable surface with the Megan brace on mine. They still thread in about 5-6 full turns. Or does anyone know where I might find suitable replacements that are 5mm longer?

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by Jvac

FaRKle, any concerns about the bolts no longer threading as deep into the top mounts with the strut brace installed? Gave up about 5mm of threadable surface with the Megan brace on mine. They still thread in about 5-6 full turns. Or does anyone know where I might find suitable replacements that are 5mm longer?

If your bolt threads in by a length at least the diameter of the threaded portion that's typically enough. 5-6 full threads sounds like it's probably enough engagement.

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

If your bolt threads in by a length at least the diameter of the threaded portion that's typically enough. 5-6 full threads sounds like it's probably enough engagement.

Thanks, I thought so too but what do I know. In my case it only uses 3 of the 5 bolts on the top mount, so the other 2 are still threaded all the way in. Really enjoying how the added stiffness up front improves the driving feel for anyone who is still on the fence about this mod.

[ChristosD]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

You can find that torque spec for your vehicle on NewTIS. Note that it's different depending on the year (some years had 3 bolts, some had 5, and the size of the bolts sometimes changed).

thanks didn't even know this existed

[ChristosD]

Originally Posted by Jvac

Thanks, I thought so too but what do I know. In my case it only uses 3 of the 5 bolts on the top mount, so the other 2 are still threaded all the way in. Really enjoying how the added stiffness up front improves the driving feel for anyone who is still on the fence about this mod.

did you tighten the bolts to 56nm and 90' angle rotation?

[BMWILUVU]

Originally Posted by Jvac

FaRKle, any concerns about the bolts no longer threading as deep into the top mounts with the strut brace installed? Gave up about 5mm of threadable surface with the Megan brace on mine. They still thread in about 5-6 full turns. Or does anyone know where I might find suitable replacements that are 5mm longer?

I tried to find longer bolts but those that I found were torx heads. This is not a problem for me but the washers used were also a little smaller so in the end I decided not to use them. If anyone finds a good replacement please shout out.

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by ChristosD

did you tighten the bolts to 56nm and 90' angle rotation?

No, I found 30nm according to newtis for the 5 outer bolts. The 6th and larger one(which connects the oe brace to the firewall) had a higher torque spec but isn't part of the group for the aftermarket brace. If I read that wrong someone please correct me

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by ChristosD

did you tighten the bolts to 56nm and 90' angle rotation?

56nm is the spec for the M10 screws (only seen on 3 bolt top mounts). The M8's are 30nm. You should only use the 90deg extra rotation if using new bolts since that's what stretches them. Just do the torque spec if not using new bolts.

[52172]

Have the Megan stress bar coming too, can't beat the price.

[daredevil76]

Just got mine installed

[floridaorange]

^ link?

[InceptionBW]

Does the megan racing bar fit a coupe, specifically a 440?

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by InceptionBW

Does the megan racing bar fit a coupe, specifically a 440?

The one I bought lists only f30 as compatible . It's possible they make a bar for your car too. Check their website and see if you can find a part number, then search that on eBay for a deal.