[bigfelix170]

2014 320i. Push the start button all you get is a few clicks and an error message "ignition/starter malfuntion. Put a new starter and still same problem.theres no power going to the starter when you press the start button. If you step on the brakes ,push tje button and jump the starter it turns on no problem.
Does this car have a starter relay? Everything works on the car.
Ive checked everywhere for some sort of relay and cant find it. Need help.

[bigfelix170]

Come on. No one?

[bimmer456]

Sounds like you need a new battery if it works when you jump start it. Is it still under warranty?

[bigfelix170]

Thats the pin i used to jump start the starter. I checked the fuses on the fem and they all good.going to check that pin on the fem and see if its a loose connection. Would the push to start button be faulty. Trying to hold off on going to the dealer

[bigfelix170]

Put in a new FEM module($700 + 110 for programming). Didnt solve tbe problem. I just threw away $800+.

[jeffc83]

Originally Posted by bigfelix170

Put in a new FEM module($700 + 110 for programming). Didnt solve tbe problem. I just threw away $800+.

Damn sorry to hear man! Not poking at you but did you start with the switch or at least test it just for kicks before blowing that much on an FEM module? Other than that, have you checked the wiring to ensure none of them are shorting out?

[radicalrev]

Sorry to revive an old thread but I am facing a similar issue with a 2014 f30 320i.

Problem arise suddenly when cruising on the highway (normal throttle), car suddenly stalls and sort of went to Neutral. Shut off the car, and couldn't start the car after. iDrive screen shows a Starter/Ignition Fault.

This also happens after installing a vacuum valve module for a valvetronic exhaust. Not sure if this causes the issue but I am open to any possible issue. Is this most likely an engine/mechanical failure or an electric issue?

Video of the car not starting :

https://youtu.be/-Xn5PJF8e48

View post on imgur.com

[dmaxdmax]

Check the voltage you're showing in the car...I suspect your alt went south and thus also did your battery...but it could be something low odds like a million things.

See what codes you have. Use the cluster function or a multimeter to get some basic info before you go replacing $800 units.

Look for loose/corroded connections in the elec. system main harness. Doublecheck where you'd last been working.

...and a bump.

[radicalrev]

Originally Posted by dmaxdmax

Check the voltage you're showing in the car...I suspect your alt went south and thus also did your battery...but it could be something low odds like a million things.

See what codes you have. Use the cluster function or a multimeter to get some basic info before you go replacing $800 units.

Look for loose/corroded connections in the elec. system main harness. Doublecheck where you'd last been working.

...and a bump.

Got the error code readings:

0x804095 : Driver KL50L : Current Overload
0x8040B5 : Engine start fault during starter
0x80444D : Inside mirror : undervoltage detected
0x801206 : Blower output stage : undervoltage or overvoltage detected

Anyone know what might cause this issue?

Update : Dealer said it causes by the engine being "clogged/jammed"? Sorry if the work doesn't make sense as that is the direct translation from what the service advisor told me.

[AlmondJayRoM3]

Originally Posted by radicalrev

Got the error code readings:

0x804095 : Driver KL50L : Current Overload
0x8040B5 : Engine start fault during starter
0x80444D : Inside mirror : undervoltage detected
0x801206 : Blower output stage : undervoltage or overvoltage detected

Anyone know what might cause this issue?

Update : Dealer said it causes by the engine being "clogged/jammed"? Sorry if the work doesn't make sense as that is the direct translation from what the service advisor told me.

Check the battery and alternator. Don’t forget to check tightness of the battery terminals.

[radicalrev]

Originally Posted by AlmondJayRoM3

Check the battery and alternator. Don’t forget to check tightness of the battery terminals.

Battery and alternator was all good.

Dealer pulled up more information and ISTA showed this :

0x120408 : Charging pressure control : Switch-off as consequence (vehicle mileage km19,082)
0x123432 : Electric wastegate, learning limit stop: stop position (wastegate closed) outside tolerance (vehicle mileage km19082)

Dealer said that the engine seized/locked up because of an issue on the turbo wastegate error when it happen at km 19,082.
Which ultimately cause the engine to seize/lock 300 km later.

Weird thing is there was no signs or any issues I've experience for the past 300 km. Car was running normally albeit I did not do any spirited driving. Just in the city cruising and occasional cruising speed on the high way.

Dealer also said it may be caused by a remap/tune but car was bone stock, no engine modifications, just exterior mods. However they are still skeptical when I told them this.

Anyone knows what the solution and what is the possible cause?
Also has anyone else experience this kind of issues?

[Jostack]

Originally Posted by radicalrev

Battery and alternator was all good.

Dealer pulled up more information and ISTA showed this :

0x120408 : Charging pressure control : Switch-off as consequence (vehicle mileage km19,082)
0x123432 : Electric wastegate, learning limit stop: stop position (wastegate closed) outside tolerance (vehicle mileage km19082)

Dealer said that the engine seized/locked up because of an issue on the turbo wastegate error when it happen at km 19,082.
Which ultimately cause the engine to seize/lock 300 km later.

Weird thing is there was no signs or any issues I've experience for the past 300 km. Car was running normally albeit I did not do any spirited driving. Just in the city cruising and occasional cruising speed on the high way.

Dealer also said it may be caused by a remap/tune but car was bone stock, no engine modifications, just exterior mods. However they are still skeptical when I told them this.

Anyone knows what the solution and what is the possible cause?
Also has anyone else experience this kind of issues?

So, the engine 'seized' at some point but is not seized now? Did the dealer offer a solution? If it has not been 'tuned', what other things can cause this condition?

This is what is would ask the dealer.

[radicalrev]

Originally Posted by Jostack

So, the engine 'seized' at some point but is not seized now? Did the dealer offer a solution? If it has not been 'tuned', what other things can cause this condition?

This is what is would ask the dealer.

That is correct. The dealer did not mention anything else that might cause the condition rather than pointing out the wastegate turbo is malfunction. Their only solution is to take apart the engine and further diagnose the issue. They estimated the cost to be over $1500 to do this. I haven't decided yet what to do.

Actually I bought the car used at 17500 KM, did a general checkup with the dealer and found nothing out of the ordinary. Also the previous owner doesn't seem like a 50 year old man who likes to mod his car, more so tune the car. But who knows I might be mistaken.

There is no sign of a piggy back tune that is for sure. Is there anyway I can check if the car has been re-mapped/tuned? And if so am I able check the date or mileage of the car when it was first tuned?

[dmaxdmax]

Not withstanding the dealer's comments, which might be correct, I'd at least try to find a known, charged battery or buy a battery charger and trickle charge overnight...then see what you get.

A charger is always a good thing to have anyway...you could make a lot of friends in the neighborhood with one.

I'll also say that codes don't always mean what they seem to point to, and often the code indicates an issue upstream of whatever sensor/device picked up an error and set a code.

[radicalrev]

Originally Posted by dmaxdmax

Not withstanding the dealer's comments, which might be correct, I'd at least try to find a known, charged battery or buy a battery charger and trickle charge overnight...then see what you get.

A charger is always a good thing to have anyway...you could make a lot of friends in the neighborhood with one.

I'll also say that codes don't always mean what they seem to point to, and often the code indicates an issue upstream of whatever sensor/device picked up an error and set a code.

Well noted. However I think it isn't a battery issue since they try replacing the battery with a spare fully charged battery and car did not start. They assume it was an engine issue when they try pulling the crankshaft pulley and it wouldn't move. Indicating it was the engine that seized cause by the malfunction on the wastegate turbo. On another note, can an electrical failure cause an engine to seize? Also if the engine do actually seize, what are the procedures like and the chances of an engine replacement to occur?

Also something to note, the car has not gotten the well known timing chain repair kit done. Can this be the issue as well?

[Jostack]

I think I'd look for an independent shop experienced with the f30.

[radicalrev]

Originally Posted by Jostack

I think I'd look for an independent shop experienced with the f30.

Yes, will do if I decide to rebuild the engine. Just wondering before deciding anything if anyone else have any advice for me.

[drewkelly]

Same exact issue here...getting "Starter/Ignition" error on my '13 F30 when I depress brake pedal and press Start button. Battery is 3 months old. 'Click' sound comes from engine bay with no cranking at all. Another thread said it might be a loose connection, like the positive post under the hood.

[kermit24]

Originally Posted by drewkelly

Same exact issue here...getting "Starter/Ignition" error on my '13 F30 when I depress brake pedal and press Start button. Battery is 3 months old. 'Click' sound comes from engine bay with no cranking at all. Another thread said it might be a loose connection, like the positive post under the hood.

Any update on this? I am going through this and one shop replaced the valvetronic motor, but they couldn't update the DME after the repair, so I took it to the dealer are they are saying the starter is bad.

[bigl]

Love this thread! The man asked if there’s a relay. Everyone gave their 2cents but no one answered the question he asked

[Andyluca6933]

Originally Posted by bigfelix170

2014 320i. Push the start button all you get is a few clicks and an error message "ignition/starter malfuntion. Put a new starter and still same problem.theres no power going to the starter when you press the start button. If you step on the brakes ,push tje button and jump the starter it turns on no problem.
Does this car have a starter relay? Everything works on the car.
Ive checked everywhere for some sort of relay and cant find it. Need help.

Did it worked with the new battery?