[cesarortiz23]

dude tell me about it 3 mechanics told me it is not the cluster one mechanic made me switch out a battery and then gave me a call saying sorry it was not the battery i think it is your cluster.. smh




i discdonnected the cluster once i disconnect the cluster literlly 5 10 min latee the car completly goes to sleep. no problem i have left the cluster discconected all night and in the morning i wake up unlock my car no problem i connect the cluster back on and start my car and i dont get no code no warning no nothing

once i leave the cluster connected for over 20 min and i lock it and let it try to go to sleep i see the problem again i cant unlock my car normal the comfort acces wont work because the 30f code and shutting the whole car down to save power etc and yes when i turn it on quickly i get the message AGAIN that increased battery drain while stop


so i mean what else can it be if i disconect my cluster the car goes to sleep and i dont get no codes or warning lights if i do connect the cluster i get errors codes and warning lights

so i mean geese lol




i keep getting this code 804086 (Driver 15KLWUP short circuit to positive)

Originally Posted by dmaxdmax

I honestly think the cluster is usually a pretty solid thing the life of a car, so my bet would be elsewhere.

Did you check the voltage and it was stable overnight with the cluster disconnected?

My start stop button goes off about 5 secs. after I close the door if I don't lock it in my garage.

Have you made sure you don't have anything charging? I found a penny in the bottom of my cig lighter (blew the fuse)...maybe you have something stuck in one of your chargers --in trunk/under glovebox?

You button stays lit if you lock the car?

Do you have comfort ventilation on? Maybe turn off all the lighting you can. Look into trunk through the skipass to make sure the lights are off there...though that wouldn't draw so much power the car would worry about it right away.

Have you monitored voltage through the cluster to see if maybe your alt is getting wonky?

Sorry...I'm corona bored and guessing a lot as I'm skeptical the cluster is the issue (not that it couldn't be.)

[dmaxdmax]

I am only a bmw-whisperer, but that link you included seemed solid, though it's anectdotal. Did you look on the newtis.info for this?

Also, I believe that a guy on e46fanatics is good with clusters. I've opened an e46 one up...you probably could on this to see if there's a short/burn etc.? His name is terraphantum (or close to that)...you can tell him dmax sicced you on him.

Sorry I couldn't help you more. Good luck!

[cesarortiz23]

Hello you guys well I wanted to update this to help other people that ever come across this problem in the future


So the problem was the cluster allll along

My diagnostic check I kept doing my self kept leading me towards the cluster
All the mechanics kept saying it wasn't the cluster
A shop made me buy a battery
And other mechanic made me buy the ibs cable and none of that worked intill I replaced THE CLUSTER.!

so what I did was I purchased a brand new 6wb cluster and got it installed and Quickly the car went to sleep and everything was normal

I just got it coded obviously and problem solved


Cluster it was the cluster all along


Again the cluster worked perfectly but after talking to people that repair clusters for living they also said yes It is your cluster giving you problems


So here ya go you guys for the books lol

For anyone that has this problem IT might be your cluster not letting your car go to sleep

[540i_DFW]

I have the same exact issue that started about a month ago. I replaced the battery with a new AGM because it was already 5 years old but I don't think the battery was the issue. The start/stop button does not shut off even after several hours. I have pulled all the rear fuses and the car still gives me an increased battery discharge warning after sitting all night. If I do not drive the car within 24 hours the battery completely drains and requires a jump. I bought a multi-meter and thought the issue was related to the rear fuse box but pulling the fuses did not resolve the battery drain. I had to buy the NOCO Boost Jump Starter because the battery would drain constantly especially since I am not driving much due to the stay home guidance so now I have to drive the car everyday to charge it up enough so it will start. I also pulled the IBS cable disconnecting it from the terminal and it did not make any difference. The AC blows to max so the IBS is not initiating a low power start. The car will not go in to sleep mode. I hooked the car up to my laptop and BMW diagnostics gave me the codes below. My issue seems like it might be related to the instrument cluster too since I assume it controls the start/stop button. I haven't pulled any front fuses because the codes reference the rear circuit terminal 30F. If the issue is the cluster will pulling that fuse lead me to the parasitic drain? Which fuse completes the cluster circuit? Can anyone provide any insight??

[cesarortiz23]

Originally Posted by 328i_DFW

I have the same exact issue that started about a month ago. I replaced the battery with a new AGM because it was already 5 years old but I don't think the battery was the issue. The start/stop button does not shut off even after several hours. I have pulled all the rear fuses and the car still gives me an increased battery discharge warning after sitting all night. If I do not drive the car within 24 hours the battery completely drains and requires a jump. I bought a multi-meter and thought the issue was related to the rear fuse box but pulling the fuses did not resolve the battery drain. I had to buy the NOCO Boost Jump Starter because the battery would drain constantly especially since I am not driving much due to the stay home guidance so now I have to drive the car everyday to charge it up enough so it will start. I also pulled the IBS cable disconnecting it from the terminal and it did not make any difference. The AC blows to max so the IBS is not initiating a low power start. The car will not go in to sleep mode. I hooked the car up to my laptop and BMW diagnostics gave me the codes below. My issue seems like it might be the instrument cluster too since I assume it controls the start/stop button. I haven't pulled any front fuses because the codes reference the rear circuit. If the issue is the cluster will pulling that fuse lead me to the parasitic drain?

Yeah

Just do this boss

Un bolt your instrument cluster

And disconnect it from there

And give it 5-10 min and see if the car goes to sleep if it does then is most likely your cluster like me

Cuz I was getting all those codes too

[cesarortiz23]

Originally Posted by 328i_DFW

I have the same exact issue that started about a month ago. I replaced the battery with a new AGM because it was already 5 years old but I don't think the battery was the issue. The start/stop button does not shut off even after several hours. I have pulled all the rear fuses and the car still gives me an increased battery discharge warning after sitting all night. If I do not drive the car within 24 hours the battery completely drains and requires a jump. I bought a multi-meter and thought the issue was related to the rear fuse box but pulling the fuses did not resolve the battery drain. I had to buy the NOCO Boost Jump Starter because the battery would drain constantly especially since I am not driving much due to the stay home guidance so now I have to drive the car everyday to charge it up enough so it will start. I also pulled the IBS cable disconnecting it from the terminal and it did not make any difference. The AC blows to max so the IBS is not initiating a low power start. The car will not go in to sleep mode. I hooked the car up to my laptop and BMW diagnostics gave me the codes below. My issue seems like it might be the instrument cluster too since I assume it controls the start/stop button. I haven't pulled any front fuses because the codes reference the rear circuit. If the issue is the cluster will pulling that fuse lead me to the parasitic drain?

From what I read I think or something about the new software update is causing this to happen

I could be wrong but I read some where that the update that the dealer does is making the cluster have some type of short or idk

But yeah I went like 3 weeks of non stop struggling and buying the ibs sensor and battery too etc.

And it was the cluster all along

[540i_DFW]

Hey man, I appreciate it and thanks for posting. I've been trying to narrow down the issue without having to throw money at this so I am going to give it a try and pull the cluster fuse. I get a warning after several hours that electrics were powered off but I don't think that's the case if so the damn cluster would be shut off too. Most of the fuses in the rear are related to the radio/stereo/amplifier/telematics, etc. but pulling them and coming back the next day make no difference. I do know that if I leave the car and go back to it several hours later the start/stop button is still lit and I am able to turn on the radio. That's with the key no where near the receiver. I am going to try it all before buying a replacement cluster. Does anyone know if these things can be repaired? Can I code a used one with the E-sys software or does it require something else?

[cesarortiz23]

Originally Posted by 328i_DFW

Hey man, I appreciate it and thanks for posting. I've been trying to narrow down the issue without having to throw money at this so I am going to give it a try and pull the cluster fuse. I get a warning after several hours that electrics were powered off but I don't think that's the case if so the damn cluster would be shut off too. Most of the fuses in the rear are related to the radio/stereo/amplifier/telematics, etc. but pulling them and coming back the next day make no difference. I do know that if I leave the car and go back to it several hours later the start/stop button is still lit and I am able to turn on the radio. That's with the key no where near the receiver. I am going to try it all before buying a replacement cluster. Does anyone know if these things can be repaired? Can I code a used one with the E-sys software or does it require something else?

I recommend you just pull out the cluster and actually disconnect the 2 or 3 connectors you have in the back of the cluster
Becuase I pulled a fuse as well and that didn't help intill I actually pulled the connections on the rear of the cluster

Another note the shop I took it to they reprogrammed it's they re coded it the cluster and that didn't help neither unfortunately if it is your cluster your going to need to buy one smh
they are hella expensive lol

And yeah my cluster would work perfectly fine no glitches nothing worked perfectly fine but it was messing everything up

And dude tell me about it I was stressed out over this I had people telling me left and right that it wasn't the cluster
Like 3 mechanics told me it wasn't the cluster and dude it was the cluster all along smh


But I guess I got an upgrade at the end

[540i_DFW]

I believe you it was the cluster. Now that I think about it my family had a brand new VW Touareg several years ago and within the first few months I remember the instrument cluster was replaced because the battery would discharge. That's on a brand new car. So it seems these German clusters are prone to issues. At least the BMW cluster has lasted awhile now but it sucks that such an important part would not last longer. I'm sure most of these clusters are sourced from one company. Did you pull the cluster yourself? How long did it take you?

[cesarortiz23]

Originally Posted by 328i_DFW

I believe you it was the cluster. Now that I think about it my family had a brand new VW Touareg several years ago and within the first few months I remember the instrument cluster was replaced because the battery would discharge. That's on a brand new car. So it seems these German clusters are prone to issues. At least the BMW cluster has lasted awhile now but it sucks that such an important part would not last longer. I'm sure most of these clusters are sourced from one company. Did you pull the cluster yourself? How long did it take you?

Yeah I pulled it out my self is very easy

Is only 2 screws and the connections are only clips so is real easy to pull out

If you want watch Kies Motorsports video they have a video where they are removing the cluster

And is honestly super easy

Maybe 15 min and it can be out

[540i_DFW]

I'm going to try to recode the Kombi and see if that somehow resets it. The actual cluster works fine so it seems like it might be a software glitch. Might just get a battery tender until I figure out how I'm going to proceed. I'll definitely make sure to post the outcome because like you this has been a headache and I feel for anyone going through this since it is not cool that the instrument cluster which is a critical component would require replacement. The damn thing has so much security built in to it should not fail.

[cesarortiz23]

Originally Posted by 328i_DFW

I'm going to try to recode the Kombi and see if that somehow resets it. The actual cluster works fine so it seems like it might be a software glitch. Might just get a battery tender until I figure out how I'm going to proceed. I'll definitely make sure to post the outcome because like you this has been a headache and I feel for anyone going through this since it is not cool that the instrument cluster which is a critical component would require replacement. The damn thing has so much security built in to it should not fail.

That's what I was saying
I was pist

I reset the kombi too the shop did that for me and that's didn't help
I had to talk to a guy that fixes clusters for living
And he was the one that told me that it was my cluster that was bad

That's when I was like aww man ok fuck it oh well I'll pull the trigger

But yeah make sure it is the cluster before purchasing it because man is expensive lol
Smh

[540i_DFW]

Thanks bro. Will keep everyone posted.

[cesarortiz23]

Originally Posted by 328i_DFW

Thanks bro. Will keep everyone posted.

Did you end up fixing your car dude ?

[540i_DFW]

Originally Posted by cesarortiz23

Did you end up fixing your car dude ?

Hey bud. I ended up trying it all and eventually stumbled upon an article about the Kombi needing to get replaced for the fault code the car logged. It is the result of a short within the cluster. After I read that article I knew I had tried it all and changing out the cluster would be the next step. I purchased a virginized one on eBay and installed and coded it. That resolved the issue. The start/stop switch turnes off now and the battery parasitic drain stopped so it definitely was the cluster just like what happened with yours. The key was the fault code I listed up above that refers to the Kombi so BMW diagnostics identified the right module even though the message is not clear and if it shows up you will need a new cluster to stop the battery drain. The whole situation was super frustrating though so I decided to upgrade to a G30 and sell the F30. I was looking at other brands but decided to stay with BMW for now so I will still be around. They better get on it though and definitely need to demand their suppliers improve the quality of the clusters or replace problem ones because as I have read these things should last the life of the vehicle and going bad at 6 years/55K miles is unacceptable. Good thing there are plenty of parts out there and that we have this community with people that share the knowledge and help each other sort these things out. I hope this helps someone who encounters the same issue and you were right that switching out the cluster is a cinch. If you ever want to talk out any issues that come up let me know but most issues are out here. It is important that people share and include any codes and keywords so people can can get answers quicker. This had been a nearly two month ordeal and you were the only one pretty much who had posted about it in detail.

[Ahermadz]

Hey man. I've had this issue for months before coming across this post. And i tried your solution and it worked for me. Thank you. I literally signed up just to thank you because it's been hell for me. It started after i changed my car's battery some months ago and now the new battery is basically dead due to the drains and i have to get another one with another cluster. Thanks again. You are a savior.

[BimR]

Originally Posted by cesarortiz23

Hello you guys well I wanted to update this to help other people that ever come across this problem in the future


So the problem was the cluster allll along

My diagnostic check I kept doing my self kept leading me towards the cluster
All the mechanics kept saying it wasn't the cluster
A shop made me buy a battery
And other mechanic made me buy the ibs cable and none of that worked intill I replaced THE CLUSTER.!

so what I did was I purchased a brand new 6wb cluster and got it installed and Quickly the car went to sleep and everything was normal

I just got it coded obviously and problem solved


Cluster it was the cluster all along


Again the cluster worked perfectly but after talking to people that repair clusters for living they also said yes It is your cluster giving you problems


So here ya go you guys for the books lol

For anyone that has this problem IT might be your cluster not letting your car go to sleep

Wow! Glad you finally got it figured out. Not very common for the cluster to go on a young car like that but I guess anything can fail anytime!

[xAgent33x]

same thing happened to me. first my ambient sensor went out and car began reading -40 degrees. i kept getting for about a couple weeks the battery being discharged and i thought it was the sensor and the car thinking it was cold outside. but once i changed the sensor it still would give me the battery issue until the car wouldnt turn on any more. got a new battery and everything was fine until i left the car parked for a couple hours. same message came on so took battery back to auto zone swapped it again same thing.
FINALLY i sit in my car turn it off and just sat there and notice my push to start light not turning off. after doing some research i read someone removed the cluster and removed led lighs frm it and it went well after that. im thinking of doing the same. now im not toooo good with cars but i can follow instructions. my question is once removing the cluster how do i remove the led bulbs on the cluster. TIA guys

ps: i got all the same codes you guys did. im not keeping the car longjust maybe another year or so dont really want to spend more money on it.

[wal-dog]

Originally Posted by cesarortiz23

Hello you guys well I wanted to update this to help other people that ever come across this problem in the future


So the problem was the cluster allll along

My diagnostic check I kept doing my self kept leading me towards the cluster
All the mechanics kept saying it wasn't the cluster
A shop made me buy a battery
And other mechanic made me buy the ibs cable and none of that worked intill I replaced THE CLUSTER.!

so what I did was I purchased a brand new 6wb cluster and got it installed and Quickly the car went to sleep and everything was normal

I just got it coded obviously and problem solved


Cluster it was the cluster all along


Again the cluster worked perfectly but after talking to people that repair clusters for living they also said yes It is your cluster giving you problems


So here ya go you guys for the books lol

For anyone that has this problem IT might be your cluster not letting your car go to sleep

I just sent my cluster to these guys:
https://www.instrumentclusterstore.com/
I get the same codes and when I pull the cluster out I get no draw and the car goes to sleep. I bought a used one from them with 32k miles on it. They are cloning my old one to the new. Price is $150 for the cluster, $400 to clone, $60 for expedited shipping back and the $51 I spent to send mine. If this works I'm in at $661. I've been living with the battery discharge warning for 8 months. Here's what I've been doing:
• Replaced battery and alternator. Didn't work
• Pull I-drive fuse when parked. It draws 2 amps.
• Keep car on Ctek charger
• Discovered that if you start the car, shut it off and then restart the discharge warning goes away. When warning is active the car charges at around 15.3 volts. Too high. I think that is what ruined two batteries. (got replaced free at auto zone). If warning is off car charges at a nice 14.3 or so.

[Three20i]

Originally Posted by cesarortiz23

Hello you guys well I wanted to update this to help other people that ever come across this problem in the future


So the problem was the cluster allll along

My diagnostic check I kept doing my self kept leading me towards the cluster
All the mechanics kept saying it wasn't the cluster
A shop made me buy a battery
And other mechanic made me buy the ibs cable and none of that worked intill I replaced THE CLUSTER.!

so what I did was I purchased a brand new 6wb cluster and got it installed and Quickly the car went to sleep and everything was normal

I just got it coded obviously and problem solved


Cluster it was the cluster all along


Again the cluster worked perfectly but after talking to people that repair clusters for living they also said yes It is your cluster giving you problems


So here ya go you guys for the books lol

For anyone that has this problem IT might be your cluster not letting your car go to sleep

Dude I literally had to come out of the woodwork just to post and say THANK YOU!!!!!!!

I have had the increased battery discharge message for seven months on my 2014 320i and I did exactly as you instructed by unplugging the cluster from the wire and my car went to sleep within two minutes, right before my eyes. 6WA retrofit coming within the next couple of weeks!!!

Found a vendor who will not only change the color of cluster LEDs, but pre-virginizes the cluster and will also include a MOST cable if needed and remote code the new cluster as an option:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/36342060899...EAAOSwc-lgtTqb

[wal-dog]

Originally Posted by wal-dog

I just sent my cluster to these guys:
https://www.instrumentclusterstore.com/
I get the same codes and when I pull the cluster out I get no draw and the car goes to sleep. I bought a used one from them with 32k miles on it. They are cloning my old one to the new. Price is $150 for the cluster, $400 to clone, $60 for expedited shipping back and the $51 I spent to send mine. If this works I'm in at $661. I've been living with the battery discharge warning for 8 months. Here's what I've been doing:
• Replaced battery and alternator. Didn't work
• Pull I-drive fuse when parked. It draws 2 amps.
• Keep car on Ctek charger
• Discovered that if you start the car, shut it off and then restart the discharge warning goes away. When warning is active the car charges at around 15.3 volts. Too high. I think that is what ruined two batteries. (got replaced free at auto zone). If warning is off car charges at a nice 14.3 or so.

Update on mine. Cluster I received from them ran the car but none of the gauges or lights worked. Car still had discharge. Sent back and they going to try a different cluster.

[Three20i]

Originally Posted by wal-dog

Update on mine. Cluster I received from them ran the car but none of the gauges or lights worked. Car still had discharge. Sent back and they going to try a different cluster.

You should try the vendor I linked above. He sells pre-virginized clusters for $450, true plug and play. You'd be $500 all in for a 6WA cluster if you have a basic cluster and need the MOST cable (he sells for $50) and wouldn't have to send anything anywhere.

If you already have a 6WA now, it'd be even less as he would then accept your current 6WA cluster as a core swap and refund you $100, bringing the total to $350. He doesn't accept basic clusters, so that price will always be $450 (unless you need the cable, then it's $500).