[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by learntocode

Good to know that DIY is possible. Any difference between manual (6 speed) transmission and automatic transmission vehicles? Will using the same BMW OEM parts work when changing out to new transmission fluid?

Different fluids for the auto and manual.

[Solidjake]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

Looking forward to your quote. What shop? You're sorta local to me.

Not going to take it to them. $260 just for labor and they have a problem when you bring your own parts. I'll look elsewhere if not try to ask my friend and see if his friends lift is available for me to do it. I'll buy the tool to suck out the oil if it comes to that.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by Solidjake

Not going to take it to them. $260 just for labor and they have a problem when you bring your own parts. I'll look elsewhere if not try to ask my friend and see if his friends lift is available for me to do it. I'll buy the tool to suck out the oil if it comes to that.

Bummer, thanks for the update. Take a look at BimmerClinic in South Amboy on Route 9 (might be a hike for you). Went to them for my springs, and am considering going there for trans fluid once summer rolls around. They do nothing but BMW's so their specialization is there. Worth a shot

[Solidjake]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

Bummer, thanks for the update. Take a look at BimmerClinic in South Amboy on Route 9 (might be a hike for you). Went to them for my springs, and am considering going there for trans fluid once summer rolls around. They do nothing but BMW's so their specialization is there. Worth a shot

Awesome I'll reach out to them. I live in Philly as well so I can always stop by there on my way down.

[Broadsword]

Originally Posted by sspade

BimmerLink is also capable of reading trans temps. Available on iOS.

How do you like BimmerLink? Worth the purchase?

[sspade]

Originally Posted by Broadsword

How do you like BimmerLink? Worth the purchase?

Yes. Between both softwares, I have not felt the need to purchase anything "better."

I have coded multiple items. I have diagnosed many problems. Soon... I will register my battery (when needed).

In my case... its paid for itself many many times over.

Best first $100 Mod in my honest opinion (all in for both softwares and single hardware required).

[M Smurf]

Wanted to pass on some info to those interested.

Just crossed 85k miles and following Mike Miller's Lifetime Interval Recs. I have the car in for fluid change of the Transmission, Differential, and Coolant.

The Tranny fluid alone is an eye-watering $30+/liter!

All told about $900 and only $100ish for labor.

[sspade]

Originally Posted by M Smurf

Wanted to pass on some info to those interested.

Just crossed 85k miles and following Mike Miller's Lifetime Interval Recs. I have the car in for fluid change of the Transmission, Differential, and Coolant.

The Tranny fluid alone is an eye-watering $30+/liter!

All told about $900 and only $100ish for labor.

Sounds a touch steep. All of the parts and fluids that you will consume can be had for well under $400.

Then again, you dont have to move a muscle so there is value there.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F123271998992

[FaRKle!]

I recently had my transmission fluid changed at ~45,500mi. I sent a sample of it to Blackstone for analysis. You can see the results (and the change interval it looks like should be done with my kind of use case) in my build log.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

I recently had my transmission fluid changed at ~45,500mi. I sent a sample of it to Blackstone for analysis. You can see the results (and the change interval it looks like should be done with my kind of use case) in my build log.

Great info, thanks for sharing. I guess that will vary pretty significantly between driving styles, but at least it goes to show once again that it's certainly not a lifetime fluid.

[nightbreaker]

Originally Posted by _bdiddyb_

I bought my kit few months ago but haven't had time to do it yet.

A couple of the members here did it. Kit costs around $300. You'll need ISTA to keep track of the temp.

The ISTA+ "Oil adjustment" procedure following pan/filter replacement is as follows (car initially off and leveled):
1. Fill pan until fluid drips from the fill plug
2. Turn car on, and immediately repeat step 1
3. Get in the car and shift to reverse, then D, then go into the manual shift gate and hold gears 1 & 2 for 10 seconds.
4. Put the car back in park and rev the engine at 2k RPMs for 30 seconds to fill the torque converter.
5. Repeat step 1. Replace fill plug

The fluid is supposed to be between 30-40 degrees C before doing step 5.

Use Max Axess ratchet with a 8 mm Max Axess Hex Bit Socket for drain plug.

Thanks for info. I think that should be it.

5 Questions:

1- When reving on gears M1 and M2 should I rev M1 for 10 sec and manually take M1 to M2 without brake support and rev M2 for 10 sec as well.

2- Before starting doing anything is it better to lift the car on level (when cold) run the engine, connect Ista and when trans. oil is 40C-50C check the level and do the oil adjustment procedure with old oil to make sure that we will remove the right amount of oil so we can measure the drained oil and make sure to fill the same amount of oil ?

3-Before completely draining the old oil is it better to drive the car with high rpms on hwy and make sure to drain the oil as hot as possible to get the max amount of oil and dirty stuff?


4- Will 7lt of oil be enough for drain and fill (without flush) and with filter change?

5-Is it okay to keep the procedure simple and only stick to the ISTA+ Oil Adjustment procedure but not doing Oil Change procedure and not resetting the adaptations?

[nightbreaker]

Originally Posted by D041987

For the MT I used MOTUL or redline fluids but previously have used LUCAS with great results and lower temps as well. Mainly use MT-90 weight (factory spec). For the Diff I use 75w90( for spirited driving and also it's the factory spec). But you can upgrade all the way from a 90 to 110 to 140 if you track or drive the car hard or launch it a lot. M3 uses 140 in the diff.

DO NOT USE MTL (Even though Redline spec page says it's ok), it's too thin for our trans and any hard driving will result in bearing/ syncro wear/ whining and will destroy your trans.

As far as I know, Bmw F30 s use the G1 hypoid oil with specs; GL4 and 75W85 oil for their differentials unlike the old models which used GL5 75W90.

My question is will it be okay to use Castrol Multivehicle oil with specs 75w90 GL4 for the F30 differential? As I understand the only difference will be 75w90 instead of 75w85 which shouldnt be a problem even.

What do you think?

[learntocode]

Found out I needed SAE 75W-90. It's for vehicles equipped with manual transmissions specifying MTF-LT-3.

A bottle of the MTF is 33.8 fl oz/1 L., oem bmw part# 83-22-2-339-221.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by D041987

Here is things you need to do to keep your car past 100K:

Trans fluids should be done every 30K on Manuals and 60K MAX on Autos.
Diff fluid should be changed every 30K
Brake Fluid should be changed every 20k to 30K.
Engine oil should be done every 5K MAX!
Spark Plugs change every 60 to 80K
Antifreeze should be changed about every 60K.
Idler's/ pulleys/ tensioners should last about 100 to 120K. After that should be changed along with new serpentine belt.

Now before all you by the book of what BMW says followers. I DO NOT AGREE with anything what BMW says other than Brake Fluid change intervals. I am a mechanic and have seen what prolong use of fluids (following dealer maint plans) can do to parts of the car. I can tell you dealerships are not in the market to keep the car on the road longer than warranty and it is all cost savings and how they can get away with less money spent on maint of the car to just escape any major repairs when car is in their warranty period. After warranty ends they are off the hook and want you to pay those outrageous prices for parts if something breaks.

Originally Posted by D041987

Here is things you need to do to keep your car past 100K:

Trans fluids should be done every 30K on Manuals and 60K MAX on Autos.
Diff fluid should be changed every 30K
Brake Fluid should be changed every 20k to 30K.
Engine oil should be done every 5K MAX!
Spark Plugs change every 60 to 80K
Antifreeze should be changed about every 60K.
Idler's/ pulleys/ tensioners should last about 100 to 120K. After that should be changed along with new serpentine belt.

Now before all you by the book of what BMW says followers. I DO NOT AGREE with anything what BMW says other than Brake Fluid change intervals. I am a mechanic and have seen what prolong use of fluids (following dealer maint plans) can do to parts of the car. I can tell you dealerships are not in the market to keep the car on the road longer than warranty and it is all cost savings and how they can get away with less money spent on maint of the car to just escape any major repairs when car is in their warranty period. After warranty ends they are off the hook and want you to pay those outrageous prices for parts if something breaks.

Thanks for these recommendations! It's great to hear it from someone with experience. I've seen guys say to change the stock Bosch spark plugs every 60k and the colder NGK (gapped down to ~0.020") every 15k-20k miles. How often do you suggest changing the coils? Do you prefer any brands of coils over others for tuned cars? Thanks!

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by johnung

Thanks for these recommendations! It's great to hear it from someone with experience. I've seen guys say to change the stock Bosch spark plugs every 60k and the colder NGK (gapped down to ~0.020") every 15k-20k miles. How often do you suggest changing the coils? Do you prefer any brands of coils over others for tuned cars? Thanks!

I think BMW switched to NGK's at some point in F30 production, but yes, you're right about the spark plugs.

The stock coils hold up really well on tuned cars. I can't recall one instance where someone with a tuned car has any issues with the stock coils. They're the same one's used in the S55, so they're more than enough for the N20.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

I think BMW switched to NGK's at some point in F30 production, but yes, you're right about the spark plugs.

The stock coils hold up really well on tuned cars. I can't recall one instance where someone with a tuned car has any issues with the stock coils. They're the same one's used in the S55, so they're more than enough for the N20.

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

I think BMW switched to NGK's at some point in F30 production, but yes, you're right about the spark plugs.

The stock coils hold up really well on tuned cars. I can't recall one instance where someone with a tuned car has any issues with the stock coils. They're the same one's used in the S55, so they're more than enough for the N20.

That's good to know. The parts houses promote some brands of coils that they claim to be better than stock BMW coils. I have an N55. I recall some folks recommending changing the coils every other time that the plugs are changed- so with NGK plugs that could mean changing coils every 30k-40k miles.

What do you recommend as far as coolant flush/change? A BMW tech told me that BMW considers it a lifetime fluid but that seems crazy. I recall a reference somewhere to a new high tech type of coolant that isn't mixed with water. I wonder if it would be a good idea at 50k-60k miles to drain the original coolant and replace with something like that? What do you think?

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by johnung

That's good to know. The parts houses promote some brands of coils that they claim to be better than stock BMW coils. I have an N55. I recall some folks recommending changing the coils every other time that the plugs are changed- so with NGK plugs that could mean changing coils every 30k-40k miles.

What do you recommend as far as coolant flush/change? A BMW tech told me that BMW considers it a lifetime fluid but that seems crazy. I recall a reference somewhere to a new high tech type of coolant that isn't mixed with water. I wonder if it would be a good idea at 50k-60k miles to drain the original coolant and replace with something like that? What do you think?

Yah I wouldn't buy into anyone claiming any aftermarket coils are needed or even better than the OE ones, stock ones are just fine

My coils are going strong at 75k, still original. I'll change them soon as good measure, but I think a 40k-50k change interval is about right.

Coolant is definitely not a lifetime fluid lol. I wonder if BMW is going to start calling the engine oil lifetime next! 50k-60k is a reasonable interval for coolant services, that's what I'd recommend as well.

[Solidjake]

Update!! I found a great shop in Queens that is charging me $90 for trans/diff fluid replacement. I'm picking up the car tomorrow morning. Turn time was same day. The guys there are great and do a lot of work on dedicated track cars.

http://fastautoracing.com/

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by Solidjake

Update!! I found a great shop in Queens that is charging me $90 for trans/diff fluid replacement. I'm picking up the car tomorrow morning. Turn time was same day. The guys there are great and do a lot of work on dedicated track cars.

http://fastautoracing.com/

$90 out the door!? Did you mean $900? lol

I feel like $90 barley covers the cost of the fluids.

[Solidjake]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

$90 out the door!? Did you mean $900? lol

I feel like $90 barley covers the cost of the fluids.

$90 (for labor sorry didn't specify but that is great) The other shop wanted $240 or so!

neunzig
noventa
quatre vingt dix
九十

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by Solidjake

$90 (for labor sorry didn't specify but that is great) The other shop wanted $240 or so!

neunzig
noventa
quatre vingt dix
九十

Haha, gotcha, thanks for clarifying. So $90 for labor + cost of fluids. Assuming they do it right, that's still a pretty screaming deal if you ask me! Now I just have to decide if it's worth the trip across the bridge...

[FaRKle!]

Yeah $90 labor is a steal. Book time is like 2.5-3hrs.