[Xchrisxxxx]

ok, so I've already confirmed with 4 other members this is not an isolated issue, I'm opening a discussion on possible causes and fixes with an ongoing problem I've had, as fuel it, has been no help.

To begin, I purchased a stage 2 LPFP from fuelit for my 2013 F30 335i PWG , the day after it was professionally installed, the return line burst while on the highway, car died, first impression was maybe the line got nicked on the metal while inserting, first time fuel it helped and sent a new line, fast forward 1 week after repair, line burst again while parked, now we figure that the lines are weak, so we order new heavy duty lines, fast forward another week after repair, bang, line burst again while on the highway, now I have 3 highly certified BMW mechanics scratching their heads to why this keeps happening, we have gone the course of retuning the car, still breaks, heavy duty line, still breaks, put the stock fuel pump in..... no issues.... put the stage 2 back in, it breaks. now it's not the line falling off, or cracking, the return line is actually forming a BUBBLE and bursting, like the gas is super heated and melting the plastic. 

SO, fuel it says they have never had the issue before, which is blatantly lying to my face, as I have spoken with other members with the same issue all telling me they heard the same story when emailing them, and they want me to mail the pump back to them for (testing) at my cost and IF they find an issue they will refund, now this is not an option because my car is my daily and I do not have the available funds for a new pump.

what do you guys make of this situation, for those who have had this issue how did you resolve it.

[zole2112]

Not sure, need to think on this one. I have a Stage 2 LPFP I built myself with a Walbro 450 and I spent a lot of time researching before I built mine but I need to go back and review what I learned to see if I can figure out what could cause this. The only issues I had were the lines popping off initially because I was an idiot and didn't anticipate the higher pressure required clamps. After adding clamps to the fuel line ends I had no issues. I used nylon fuel lines from Racetronix.

[Fuel-It!]

Originally Posted by Xchrisxxxx

ok, so I've already confirmed with 4 other members this is not an isolated issue, I'm opening a discussion on possible causes and fixes with an ongoing problem I've had, as fuel it, has been no help.

To begin, I purchased a stage 2 LPFP from fuelit for my 2013 F30 335i PWG , the day after it was professionally installed, the return line burst while on the highway, car died, first impression was maybe the line got nicked on the metal while inserting, first time fuel it helped and sent a new line, fast forward 1 week after repair, line burst again while parked, now we figure that the lines are weak, so we order new heavy duty lines, fast forward another week after repair, bang, line burst again while on the highway, now I have 3 highly certified BMW mechanics scratching their heads to why this keeps happening, we have gone the course of retuning the car, still breaks, heavy duty line, still breaks, put the stock fuel pump in..... no issues.... put the stage 2 back in, it breaks. now it's not the line falling off, or cracking, the return line is actually forming a BUBBLE and bursting, like the gas is super heated and melting the plastic.*

SO, fuel it says they have never had the issue before, which is blatantly lying to my face, as I have spoken with other members with the same issue all telling me they heard the same story when emailing them, and they want me to mail the pump back to them for (testing) at my cost and IF they find an issue they will refund, now this is not an option because my car is my daily and I do not have the available funds for a new pump.

what do you guys make of this situation, for those who have had this issue how did you resolve it.

Hey all,

Wow...normally we don't respond to threads such as this but given the nasty accusation being made, we don't really have much of a choice.

That said I'll keep this as brief as possible and won't get personal as nobody wants to read that and it's unprofessional.

1. I personally do the pump rebuilds and I know for certain that I have only rebuilt one 335i F-series pump for a blown fuel line. Nobody is lying about that and we hear of very few issues with those, when we do, it's typically due to an EKP issue/failure and this is why we typically recommend our Stage 3 pump so that we don't see those types of issues.

2. Fuel-It! policies: When you check out you must agree to our terms and conditions of which we have very defined policies when it comes to returns, defective items, etc. I'll past them here...

Returns:

Returns will only be accepted for defective items that are under warranty. If you believe you have a defective item, contact us and let us know which option you would like to use.

Option 1: Obtain an RMA # to send your item in to be inspected and tested. If the item is found to be defective we will repair or replace the item at our discretion and ship it back to you at our expense. If it is not found to be defective, you will receive an invoice for return shipping and the item will be return to you.

Option 2: Contact us and place a security deposit of the original purchase amount plus shipping for a replacement to be sent out to you. Upon receiving your original item, it will be inspected and tested. If it is found to be defective we will repair or replace the item at our discretion. We will then refund your deposit once the replacement item is received. If the item is found to be good, you will receive an invoice to have your original item shipped back to you and there will be no refunds available.

*all shipping costs paid by the customer are non-refundable.

Why do we have this policy? We've learned over time that most customers will not return the original or replacement item as they have no incentive to. It's unfortunate but that is the reality of sending out a replacement item without a deposit. So while we apologize for the need of such a policy, we've learned over time that it is unavoidable.

In this case the customer was informed of the policy and chose to do the repair themselves. For this reason we have not tested or seen this pump, so them having 2 more failures after the fact suggests another issue.

3. Why could this be happening? The N55 is a bit different and more difficult to troubleshoot as it does not have a LPFP sensor. When the DME senses there is an issue it may switch the duty cycle to the LPFP to 100%. This is easy to identify on the E-series when logging but not so much on the F-series. When that happens, the LPFP running at 100% duty cycle overruns the fuel system and can cause a failure. That issue must be resolved or you will have continued issues. This is why with stage 3/4 pumps you can NOT run the secondary full time...when you do we see the same kind of failure.

4. Why doesn't it happen when I put my stock pump back in? Simple, it's not an upgraded pump and doesn't flow as much fuel.

As the customer has stated they themselves have chosen to make the repair and at their request we sent them a replacement fuel line. We run the same lines on thousands of assemblies in the field and see very few failures, most of which can be assigned to a root cause. Given this has happened 3 times and they have installed "heavy duty lines" with the same result there is clearly a root cause that has not been defined. In addition, as stated the line blew while idling, this is when the LPFP should be running at about 50% duty cycle but if it's running at 100% as previously described, that will likely result in a failure. Again, the root cause must be identified and resolved for this issue to be closed. To assure that everything with the pump is operating as it should, we must test it and thus far we have not been able to do so.

Thank you,
Fuel-It!

[Xchrisxxxx]

Originally Posted by Fuel-It!

Hey all,

Wow...normally we don't respond to threads such as this but given the nasty accusation being made, we don't really have much of a choice.

That said I'll keep this as brief as possible and won't get personal as nobody wants to read that and it's unprofessional.

1. I personally do the pump rebuilds and I know for certain that I have only rebuilt one 335i F-series pump for a blown fuel line. Nobody is lying about that and we hear of very few issues with those, when we do, it's typically due to an EKP issue/failure and this is why we typically recommend our Stage 3 pump so that we don't see those types of issues.

2. Fuel-It! policies: When you check out you must agree to our terms and conditions of which we have very defined policies when it comes to returns, defective items, etc. I'll past them here...

Returns:

Returns will only be accepted for defective items that are under warranty. If you believe you have a defective item, contact us and let us know which option you would like to use.

Option 1: Obtain an RMA # to send your item in to be inspected and tested. If the item is found to be defective we will repair or replace the item at our discretion and ship it back to you at our expense. If it is not found to be defective, you will receive an invoice for return shipping and the item will be return to you.

Option 2: Contact us and place a security deposit of the original purchase amount plus shipping for a replacement to be sent out to you. Upon receiving your original item, it will be inspected and tested. If it is found to be defective we will repair or replace the item at our discretion. We will then refund your deposit once the replacement item is received. If the item is found to be good, you will receive an invoice to have your original item shipped back to you and there will be no refunds available.

*all shipping costs paid by the customer are non-refundable.

Why do we have this policy? We've learned over time that most customers will not return the original or replacement item as they have no incentive to. It's unfortunate but that is the reality of sending out a replacement item without a deposit. So while we apologize for the need of such a policy, we've learned over time that it is unavoidable.

In this case the customer was informed of the policy and chose to do the repair themselves. For this reason we have not tested or seen this pump, so them having 2 more failures after the fact suggests another issue.

3. Why could this be happening? The N55 is a bit different and more difficult to troubleshoot as it does not have a LPFP sensor. When the DME senses there is an issue it may switch the duty cycle to the LPFP to 100%. This is easy to identify on the E-series when logging but not so much on the F-series. When that happens, the LPFP running at 100% duty cycle overruns the fuel system and can cause a failure. That issue must be resolved or you will have continued issues. This is why with stage 3/4 pumps you can NOT run the secondary full time...when you do we see the same kind of failure.

4. Why doesn't it happen when I put my stock pump back in? Simple, it's not an upgraded pump and doesn't flow as much fuel.

As the customer has stated they themselves have chosen to make the repair and at their request we sent them a replacement fuel line. We run the same lines on thousands of assemblies in the field and see very few failures, most of which can be assigned to a root cause. Given this has happened 3 times and they have installed "heavy duty lines" with the same result there is clearly a root cause that has not been defined. In addition, as stated the line blew while idling, this is when the LPFP should be running at about 50% duty cycle but if it's running at 100% as previously described, that will likely result in a failure. Again, the root cause must be identified and resolved for this issue to be closed. To assure that everything with the pump is operating as it should, we must test it and thus far we have not been able to do so.

Thank you,
Fuel-It!

Originally Posted by Fuel-It!

Hey all,

Wow...normally we don't respond to threads such as this but given the nasty accusation being made, we don't really have much of a choice.

That said I'll keep this as brief as possible and won't get personal as nobody wants to read that and it's unprofessional.

1. I personally do the pump rebuilds and I know for certain that I have only rebuilt one 335i F-series pump for a blown fuel line. Nobody is lying about that and we hear of very few issues with those, when we do, it's typically due to an EKP issue/failure and this is why we typically recommend our Stage 3 pump so that we don't see those types of issues.

2. Fuel-It! policies: When you check out you must agree to our terms and conditions of which we have very defined policies when it comes to returns, defective items, etc. I'll past them here...

Returns:

Returns will only be accepted for defective items that are under warranty. If you believe you have a defective item, contact us and let us know which option you would like to use.

Option 1: Obtain an RMA # to send your item in to be inspected and tested. If the item is found to be defective we will repair or replace the item at our discretion and ship it back to you at our expense. If it is not found to be defective, you will receive an invoice for return shipping and the item will be return to you.

Option 2: Contact us and place a security deposit of the original purchase amount plus shipping for a replacement to be sent out to you. Upon receiving your original item, it will be inspected and tested. If it is found to be defective we will repair or replace the item at our discretion. We will then refund your deposit once the replacement item is received. If the item is found to be good, you will receive an invoice to have your original item shipped back to you and there will be no refunds available.

*all shipping costs paid by the customer are non-refundable.

Why do we have this policy? We've learned over time that most customers will not return the original or replacement item as they have no incentive to. It's unfortunate but that is the reality of sending out a replacement item without a deposit. So while we apologize for the need of such a policy, we've learned over time that it is unavoidable.

In this case the customer was informed of the policy and chose to do the repair themselves. For this reason we have not tested or seen this pump, so them having 2 more failures after the fact suggests another issue.

3. Why could this be happening? The N55 is a bit different and more difficult to troubleshoot as it does not have a LPFP sensor. When the DME senses there is an issue it may switch the duty cycle to the LPFP to 100%. This is easy to identify on the E-series when logging but not so much on the F-series. When that happens, the LPFP running at 100% duty cycle overruns the fuel system and can cause a failure. That issue must be resolved or you will have continued issues. This is why with stage 3/4 pumps you can NOT run the secondary full time...when you do we see the same kind of failure.

4. Why doesn't it happen when I put my stock pump back in? Simple, it's not an upgraded pump and doesn't flow as much fuel.

As the customer has stated they themselves have chosen to make the repair and at their request we sent them a replacement fuel line. We run the same lines on thousands of assemblies in the field and see very few failures, most of which can be assigned to a root cause. Given this has happened 3 times and they have installed "heavy duty lines" with the same result there is clearly a root cause that has not been defined. In addition, as stated the line blew while idling, this is when the LPFP should be running at about 50% duty cycle but if it's running at 100% as previously described, that will likely result in a failure. Again, the root cause must be identified and resolved for this issue to be closed. To assure that everything with the pump is operating as it should, we must test it and thus far we have not been able to do so.

Thank you,
Fuel-It!

what's funny is you guys give more information on the matter when defending yourselves to protect your reputation than you did when I was coming to you as a customer.

1. as stated before I have FOUR people that have all had the same issue ,one of which had their pump "fixed" by fuel it and has since then had no issues, and each of them have told me fuel-it sent them an email saying they have never seen this problem before

2. I have gone through all of the routes of reasonable repair to correct the situation , all failing.

3. the fuel is over heating inside the pumps internal lines. causing the plastic to melt and bubble. the ekp was tested and shown to be out putting the correct voltage within manufacturer's spec.

if this was no big deal fuel-it should have nothing to worry about me, a small fish in the sea, posting my situation.

to all of those people who have not had any issues you are truly lucky. as I have never said anything In the matter of overall product quality, I understand I may be a rare situation, but fuel-its policies do not take the customers situation into consideration and the lack of intelligible information via email has lead me to seek alternative opinions.
thank you
and as said before
if anyone may have a solution please DM me as I would like to begin enjoying my upgraded fuel pump instead of feeling like I flushed money down the toilet

[BowzerF30]

I'm bumping this, is there a solution or follow up to this?

My Fuel-it! Stage 2 pump just did the exact same thing, I never saw any fuel related codes. Car died, I tested the ekp.. seems like it's ok, pulled the pump BOOM! Popped hose..

[Xchrisxxxx]

Originally Posted by BowzerF30

I'm bumping this, is there a solution or follow up to this?

My Fuel-it! Stage 2 pump just did the exact same thing, I never saw any fuel related codes. Car died, I tested the ekp.. seems like it's ok, pulled the pump BOOM! Popped hose..

The solution for my car and one of my friends cars ended up being a bad O2 sensor, after replacing it we never had an issue.
Also a bandaid solution, which I dont quite recomend but it worked to hold me over until I got the o2 sensor, was to take thin metal wire, and wrap it around the hoses , one loop per ridge. It reinforced the hoses just enough to where they wouldn't pop under a surge moment.
But to my understanding, a bad 02 sensor can cause a false reading and make the fuel system surge past the burst pressure of the hoses.

Note: my bad o2 was the one on the downpipe.

[BowzerF30]

Originally Posted by Xchrisxxxx

The solution for my car and one of my friends cars ended up being a bad O2 sensor, after replacing it we never had an issue.
Also a bandaid solution, which I dont quite recomend but it worked to hold me over until I got the o2 sensor, was to take thin metal wire, and wrap it around the hoses , one loop per ridge. It reinforced the hoses just enough to where they wouldn't pop under a surge moment.
But to my understanding, a bad 02 sensor can cause a false reading and make the fuel system surge past the burst pressure of the hoses.

Note: my bad o2 was the one on the downpipe.

How did you determine that the O2 sensor was the source of the issue? Any codes?

[Fuel-It!]

Originally Posted by Xchrisxxxx

The solution for my car and one of my friends cars ended up being a bad O2 sensor, after replacing it we never had an issue.
Also a bandaid solution, which I dont quite recomend but it worked to hold me over until I got the o2 sensor, was to take thin metal wire, and wrap it around the hoses , one loop per ridge. It reinforced the hoses just enough to where they wouldn't pop under a surge moment.
But to my understanding, a bad 02 sensor can cause a false reading and make the fuel system surge past the burst pressure of the hoses.

Note: my bad o2 was the one on the downpipe.

Good find and makes sense.

The N55 doesn’t have an LPFP sensor so it seems the DME is more likely to run the LPFP at 100% duty cycle when it detects an issue. A few things that could cause this...

- Too much ethanol or in some cases, not enough
- EKP issue
- Insufficient fueling or exceeding the HPFP capacity
- Hardware issue such as the O2 sensor mentioned

Things to watch for...

- Short term trims maxing out or flat lining
- Long term trims not flat lining or staying near zero
- DME switching to open loop
- AFR’s being erratic or flat lining at 15 or 20
- HPFP crashing

Normally this wouldn’t be as much of an issue but with a stage 2 pump you are upgrading to supply more fuel. In doing so, if your car isn’t running properly, the stage 2 has the potential to flow twice as much fuel as stock and over run the system at idle or cruise when you’re using very little fuel. As such, it will over stress your EKP, the pump, and the fuel lines and as seen cause a failure.

To fix or avoid this there are a couple options.

1. The first is pretty obvious, fix the hardware or tune issue causing the issue.
2. A lot of people are now running our Stage 3 option for a few reasons.

• It retains the stock pump and only runs the secondary when under boost.
• Increased flow rates as it consists of 2 pumps, the stock pump and the secondary Walbro pump that only runs under boost.

This won’t “fix” the issue you are having but it will avoid a catastrophic failure in the event you do have an issue. Only downside is that it may continue to go unnoticed.

In addition, the stage 3 saves wear and tear on the EKP as the primary pump remains stock and thus also eliminates the potential issue of iDrive errors due to the additional current draw from running an upgraded pump.

[Xchrisxxxx]

Originally Posted by BowzerF30

How did you determine that the O2 sensor was the source of the issue? Any codes?

Well after nearly 2 months of dealing with the bursting pipe, going through all possible fixes and drawing blanks I had given up and did the bandaid fix as I mentioned, it wasn't until I was getting a big turbo kit installed was I informed my o2 sensor was badly damaged, it was a hunch after discovering the bad o2 sensor, that it may be the root of my issues, so after fixing the o2 sensor I replaced my bandaged pipes with new ones and never had another line burst.

Note - I had 2 lines burst after the bug turbo kit installed before I used my temporary fix, including a line on a friends spare stage 2 pump, it wasn't until I replaced the o2 sensor that my issue went away, so I know it definitely was the 02 sensor.

[BowzerF30]

Originally Posted by Xchrisxxxx

Well after nearly 2 months of dealing with the bursting pipe, going through all possible fixes and drawing blanks I had given up and did the bandaid fix as I mentioned, it wasn't until I was getting a big turbo kit installed was I informed my o2 sensor was badly damaged, it was a hunch after discovering the bad o2 sensor, that it may be the root of my issues, so after fixing the o2 sensor I replaced my bandaged pipes with new ones and never had another line burst.

Note - I had 2 lines burst after the bug turbo kit installed before I used my temporary fix, including a line on a friends spare stage 2 pump, it wasn't until I replaced the o2 sensor that my issue went away, so I know it definitely was the 02 sensor.

Interesting, fuel-it said that it was hardware/software related and that its plausible that a bad or failing o2 sensor could be the root cause.

I've ran e85 mix for the last year or so, and I'm pretty sure my O2 is the oem sensor and I'm at 82k.

You never coded or replaced your ekp?

[Xchrisxxxx]

Originally Posted by BowzerF30

Interesting, fuel-it said that it was hardware/software related and that its plausible that a bad or failing o2 sensor could be the root cause.

I've ran e85 mix for the last year or so, and I'm pretty sure my O2 is the oem sensor and I'm at 82k.

You never coded or replaced your ekp?

I replaced my ekp recently just out of precaution.
I went to a pick and pull place near me.and grabbed one off a 2016 428i , only had about 10k miles on it. Didnt require any coding. Also doing an ekp mod soon to prevent any possible overheating, I'm going to drill holes in the housing of the ekp and mount a CPU fan to cool the ekp. But I would get that O2 replaced , I did mine around 90k

[BowzerF30]

I'm pretty sure I'm back at square one on this.. my car just died again tonight.

It was the hose again, but on the fpr side. I just removed the pump. I used a hose from amazon on the feed side and spare from fuel it!

Could their hoses be made of inferior materials?

I looking into the EOS pump controller as my next, step. Seems like the plastic around the pins for the pump are beginning to melt.

[Fuel-It!]

That’s a bummer.

It’s difficult because the N55 doesn’t have a low pressure sensor but given your symptoms, I think there is still an issue that is causing the EKP/DME to run the pump at 100% duty cycle. The fact that your terminals are overheating and causing the plastic around the pins to melt also points to this. Ultimately you’re going to need to resolve the root cause, anything else will be a bandaid that will lead to further issues down the road.

[BowzerF30]

Originally Posted by Fuel-It!

That's a bummer.

It's difficult because the N55 doesn't have a low pressure sensor but given your symptoms, I think there is still an issue that is causing the EKP/DME to run the pump at 100% duty cycle. The fact that your terminals are overheating and causing the plastic around the pins to melt also points to this. Ultimately you're going to need to resolve the root cause, anything else will be a bandaid that will lead to further issues down the road.

I've had e40-e45 in the tank both times.. Since the previous incident I put a new front O2 sensor in, the car went a month before the line burst again. I had low fuel, like 30 miles left until empty.

What would cause the dme to run the pump at 100%?

[Xchrisxxxx]

Originally Posted by BowzerF30

I've had e40-e45 in the tank both times.. Since the previous incident I put a new front O2 sensor in, the car went a month before the line burst again. I had low fuel, like 30 miles left until empty.

What would cause the dme to run the pump at 100%?

Looks like you have early stages of your tophat about to melt, refer to my post
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1637518
To prevent that from going any further, as for why your line keeps busting. Did you have the o2 on the cat replaced? If yes, then I haven't discovered any other reason why it would happen, I have additional reinforcement on my tubes for extra precautions. I used thin metal wire and wrapped it around the tubing using thr theres as a guide. I don't recommend doing that as it doesn't solve the route of the problem, but desperate times call for desperate measures.
Also I can recommend trying to replace your ekp. Use car-part.com to locate a pick and pull junkyard that has your lpfp assembly and call then to see if they have the physical car on their yard, and if they do you can go buy the ekp. My ekp is off a 2016 428i , I own a 13 335i. No additional coding required

[BowzerF30]

Originally Posted by Xchrisxxxx

Looks like you have early stages of your tophat about to melt, refer to my post
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1637518
To prevent that from going any further, as for why your line keeps busting. Did you have the o2 on the cat replaced? If yes, then I haven't discovered any other reason why it would happen, I have additional reinforcement on my tubes for extra precautions. I used thin metal wire and wrapped it around the tubing using thr theres as a guide. I don't recommend doing that as it doesn't solve the route of the problem, but desperate times call for desperate measures.
Also I can recommend trying to replace your ekp. Use car-part.com to locate a pick and pull junkyard that has your lpfp assembly and call then to see if they have the physical car on their yard, and if they do you can go buy the ekp. My ekp is off a 2016 428i , I own a 13 335i. No additional coding required

I'll look into those before it gets too burnt up. I replaced the O2 a month ago. I started running a base tune from twisted tuning a couple weeks ago. I have port injection as well.

I might have to wrap hoses as well if reinforcing helps prevent bursting.. I want to not worry about it, but 650 for the eos ekp is steep right now.

I'm going to run less ethanol as well e20-e25 for now

[Fuel-It!]

Ethanol shouldn't have anything to do with it unless your tune is bad. If you are tuned incorrectly for the amount of ethanol then your trims, rail pressures, or AFR's could be out of spec and this can cause the DME to go in to open loop and run your LPFP at 100% duty cycle.

I gave a list of other possible causes in a previous post in this thread.

[ceedawg]

Guess I will spend the money and get the EOS upgraded EKP for my car. Costly but seems to do the job of running cool and can add up to 3 fuel pumps without any over heating issues.

https://www.eospeed.com/products/bpm...21178983284818

My friend has been using this in his F06 640i and his previous issues of heating and burning out modules has gone away.

[Ganque]

Hi everyone,
I’m having the exact same issue... already blown 4 fuel lines.
Steve @ Fuel-it sent me a replacement but it broke again the same day we installed them.
Both pre-cat O2 sensors were replaced and I already have the BPM4 Module from EOS.
Has anyone found a solution? Also can someone send me pics of the fuel line reinforcement done?

Thanks in advance

[Tommix]

This is pure speculation, but…
Here you can see the difference between OEM and Walbro 450lph LPFP.



As you can see the size of Walbro is slightly bigger, especially the line from pump is in higer position.

Here you can see this Walboro in the bucket.



The arrow shows where the problem poit is.
When you install LPFP back to gas tank, you have to push down the cover of LPFP. In that position that fuel hose which is shown in the picture above will crumple. After this the pressure of LPFP will pop out this hose?
I saw this crumple problem clearly when I was testing this with the pump on the table.
After this test I changed that fuel hose to 100% E85 compatible (in and outside) rubber hose.
Here you can see what happens now when LPFP is in gas tank.



I hope there will come this kind of solution.



90 degree of angle to pump?

Anyway, sorry my bad English, but I hope You still got the point?

[Xchrisxxxx]

Originally Posted by Ganque

Hi everyone,
I’m having the exact same issue... already blown 4 fuel lines.
Steve @ Fuel-it sent me a replacement but it broke again the same day we installed them.
Both pre-cat O2 sensors were replaced and I already have the BPM4 Module from EOS.
Has anyone found a solution? Also can someone send me pics of the fuel line reinforcement done?

Thanks in advance

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1637518
This is another one of my posts, here you can see how I've wrapped the tubing with metal wire, this has held up for me now for about a year with no issues!

[Romeo190]

Originally Posted by BowzerF30

I'm pretty sure I'm back at square one on this.. my car just died again tonight.

It was the hose again, but on the fpr side. I just removed the pump. I used a hose from amazon on the feed side and spare from fuel it!

Could their hoses be made of inferior materials?

I looking into the EOS pump controller as my next, step. Seems like the plastic around the pins for the pump are beginning to melt.

I had the same issue recently I reached out to Steve at fuel it ....he was very helpful in explaining more or less the same issue the other member here was having .... I ended up having to change the hoses I just recently did the swap of the hoses and the car is back to normal it was shutting off on me due to the popped hose .... my buddy who is my mechanic and a bmw tech told me the hose didn’t melt it actually popped with the intense pressure and that I needed a stronger hose which I got from my friend Merick Whos also a tech and has dealt with the issue before .... the pump is so good that it produces too much power for the hoses it comes with ...I’m keeping my fingers cross that I won’t have any issues in the near future if anything happens I will update you guys.